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Old 04-08-2013, 01:37 AM   #61
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Part 3: Battery Direct power

I get all my power wire from a marine store - They are a good source wire that withstands high temps, is oil and gas resistant, and has fine strands of tin plated copper for good corrosion resistance and great flexibility. This is good for install ease and reliability down the road considering our environments and vibration.

My power needs are high so this this describes a beefed up system. Those of you with high power audio amplifiers can consider a similar solution. From under the passenger seat where my radio gear is to the battery I needed 14ft of #8 wire (marine rated red and black pair in a sheath). I planned to use a more direct route down the right side and almost half the cable lengfht but could not. Read on.

For just a 4 Watt CB, you can do the same but use smaller wire such as #12 or #14 and a simpler fuse at the battery. If you are using smaller wire then you can route your wire through the foamed plug hole on the right or left side of the dash end panels.

The engine side sheet metal exit hole of that passage was not large enough to pass through a pair of #8 wires so I ended up routing my wire through the drivers side foot well rubber plug. I sealed all firewall holes with expandable foam from a can. The dash end panel area passages have water flowing right next to this passage exit so seal it well after you pull any wire though it. I know as it was raining while I was trying to pull the #8 wire though there. :-)

So I ended up going the long way to the battery. Passenger seat under the rear of the center console under the under-seat driver side carpet and pushed under the door sill plastic up into the foot well wall. Pass it vertically outside the cast aluminum dash support and 90degree out through the rubber plug (I have a 2013 Automatic). Then I made a small drip loop (exit out and down before turning up) and routed the wire up and along the existing cable bundle across the top of the firewall above the engine over to the battery. I used split loom on the whole length in the engine compartment and tie wrapped it to the existing bundle.

Battery Connection:
I used a marine rated Bussman 70amp breaker. It uses 2 1/4-20 bolts to mount it to a surface. I chose the vertical plastic heat shield between the battery and the engine block. There is a suitable open area above and aft of a large connector body. There are 2 existing 1/4" holes in the back top of that plate. I drilled a 1/4" hole lower down to bolt in my breaker vertically. I used a cordless drill with a right angle gear head attachment and a stubby 1/4" drill bit (was previously broken in half and I ground a new tip) to get between the battery and the plate. One bolt and some double sticky tape would also work.

I cut the red wire to route to the breaker stud with some slack, and the black wire I strapped to the existing bundle that runs to the battery negative terminal. Mine had an unused #10 stud on it. I found a nut to fit.

Under the seat I crimped a 75amp Anderson powerpole connector. (www.powerwerx.com or www.Westmountainradio.com)

I crimped #8 ring terminals for 1/4" studs on the engine side wire ends. and connected them to the battery negative and breaker "aux" stud. Last I crimped the same size ring terminal on a leftover 6" piece of #8 red wire and connected as a jumper between the battery post and the 'Batt" stud on the breaker.

Designing on the fly and doing the power and antenna work took me a better part of the weekend. The under seat bracket work and parts shopping took me another day (last weekend). I have done similar solution for several SUVs and trucks I have owned over the years plus a few boats, so I have all the tools and know how, each vehicle is slightly different is all.

I did a lot of reading on this forum and others to research possible wire route options. None of them I saw said #8 or larger won't pass though the dash end panels though. This discovery caused me major plan change. I happen to get 14 feet of #8 even though I figured I would need less then 10feet, but it was the end of the spool and I can always use this stuff. Good thing I did as running over to the drivers side and back used a lot more wire. That is more voltage drop at 20 and 60 amps than I had planned for as well, but tolerable. If I had known this before I started the radio mounting, I would have located the radio gear under the drivers seat, to save a few feet of wire and voltage drop.

If you need to run large wire and cannot find a firewall hole large enough (manual transmission?) then consider going under the floor (under a seat) through a drain plug. I did this method on my RAM truck. The gas tank impedes access to one side on the Jeep 4dr.

- Mike

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Old 04-08-2013, 10:10 AM   #62
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I was considering tapping into either the TIPM or the 12V outlet on the dash. I have heard this may cause noise on the radio versus going straight to the battery.
I definitely hear nose on the radio when i have an appliance plugged in. It's not too bad, and definitely bearable (it's not like the sound quality on a cb is crystal clear to begin with) but it's there (only when the radio is picking up something, obviously).

The appliance-plugged-in noise isn't as bad as the engine whizz i hear when revving high... I think that one is due to my low quality antenna coaxial cable. That one is far more noticeable, but bearable nonetheless.

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Old 04-08-2013, 10:27 AM   #63
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The one I got is non amplified, and waterproof for about $20. Its good for pointing out to annoying road bikers there is a huge bike trail they should be using. It also will let you talk to anyone standing outside the Jeep. As far as talking to other cars with there windows up and radios going it isn't going to do the job, with the cbs limited 8 watts of power. If you really want to let the world know how you feel you need to get an amplified one like
THIS($80)> Amplified 20-Watt CB PA Horn | Right Channel Radios

So i took off my 8 ohm non-amplified speaker and installed the above 20 watt amplified speaker this weekend and started making enemies again.

It is much louder than the non-amplified speaker but not by as much as i had hoped. The speaker is mounted under the hood and from inside the cabin with the windows closed and hard top on, i still.get feedback at max volume! despite the loudness, it's still not loud enough to be heard from inside another rolling vehicle with the windows up. On the other hand, it'll scare the daylight out of pedestrians up to two blocks away.

The sound quality suffers at max volume to the point that you can't decipher what I'm saying (maybe because of the feedback). This may be more a shortcoming of the radio itself since it probably doesn't have a PA-mode echo cancellation loop. So i keep the volume at half, making it almost as loud but much clearer.

Right Chanel Radios did have an even louder (40 watt) amplified speaker but it looks too big to fit under the hood and i think feedback would be a huge problem with that much power.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:53 AM   #64
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I think I'm just going to run mine straight to the battery. As long as it's really off when you turn the CB off I'm cool with that. I think I'd eventually run it off an SPOD but I'm not paying $450 just to power a $130 CB setup lol.
I ran straight from the battery for the Pos and Neg. To run the lines I was looking every place for a suitable place to penetrate the fire wall. While I had the side cover off from the dash I noticed a hole about ¾” in diameter with expanding type foam in it. I poked an old steal antenna through it and it came out the other side. So I tied off the two wires to it and pulled them through. Put all the wires in plastic wire looms so they are protected. There is another penetration on the driver’s side in the same location. I am going to use these for the control wires for the Aux lights when I put them on.
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:15 PM   #65
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Make sure the hole is sealed where the wire exits the firewall on the engine side, water runs down right there.
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:09 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenb1023 View Post
I ran straight from the battery for the Pos and Neg. To run the lines I was looking every place for a suitable place to penetrate the fire wall. While I had the side cover off from the dash I noticed a hole about ¾” in diameter with expanding type foam in it. I poked an old steal antenna through it and it came out the other side. So I tied off the two wires to it and pulled them through. Put all the wires in plastic wire looms so they are protected. There is another penetration on the driver’s side in the same location. I am going to use these for the control wires for the Aux lights when I put them on.

I did this yesterday in preparation for running the power wires. I also think it looks cleaner instead of have a pair of exposed wires.

Everything is on order. Now just have to wait for the brown truck.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:23 PM   #67
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I actually bought a Connex 3600HP and had it mounted on a slipseater that sat on the floor behind the Passengers seat. I have been into CB for a long time so I wanted one with more wattage and all features. I then decided to mount it under the Glove compartment. I drilled a hole through the firewall and added a watertight bushing. I hooked the hot right up to the battery with an inline fuse in place. I then hooked the ground up to the vehicle ground. I ran an external speaker to the pad up on the dash. I bought an Antenna mount for the spare tire carrier and mounted a Wilson 2000 there. This seems to work great for me I get good recieve and transmit. I also get no engine whine. I also had the radio peaked and tuned. I will try to add pics later. Good luck
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:18 PM   #68
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CB is installed; put it overheard between the sun visors. Hooked hot directly to battery and ground to ground stud next to battery. Zero engine noise. With the hardtop off its very easy to run the wires down the roll bar. SWR of 1.6 on channels 1 and 40.

Thanks to all who answered questions and offered advice!
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:16 PM   #69
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CB is installed; put it overheard between the sun visors. Hooked hot directly to battery and ground to ground stud next to battery. Zero engine noise. With the hardtop off its very easy to run the wires down the roll bar. SWR of 1.6 on channels 1 and 40.

Thanks to all who answered questions and offered advice!
Awesome!
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:59 AM   #70
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I have an SWR of less than 1.5 across channels with the Midland 75-822 running coax to a tire carrier mounted firestik (3ft). Wasnt difficult!

I ordered a 3' firesick firefly, quick disco, Wilson high qual. coax and stud from Right Ch. Received it all in two days. I also ordered the Teraflex stainless rear tire mount from Quadrateck. Still waiting on it. Ought to be here by my next weekend hopefully, so I can install. Hoping I have your success with swr. The tire carrier mount must have a sufficient ground.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:21 AM   #71
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I actually bought a Connex 3600HP and had it mounted on a slipseater that sat on the floor behind the Passengers seat. I have been into CB for a long time so I wanted one with more wattage and all features. I then decided to mount it under the Glove compartment. I drilled a hole through the firewall and added a watertight bushing. I hooked the hot right up to the battery with an inline fuse in place. I then hooked the ground up to the vehicle ground. I ran an external speaker to the pad up on the dash. I bought an Antenna mount for the spare tire carrier and mounted a Wilson 2000 there. This seems to work great for me I get good recieve and transmit. I also get no engine whine. I also had the radio peaked and tuned. I will try to add pics later. Good luck
I've been researching the export radios (big Galaxy unit) and would love to see pics of your install...
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:03 AM   #72
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I ordered a 3' firesick firefly, quick disco, Wilson high qual. coax and stud from Right Ch. Received it all in two days. I also ordered the Teraflex stainless rear tire mount from Quadrateck. Still waiting on it. Ought to be here by my next weekend hopefully, so I can install. Hoping I have your success with swr. The tire carrier mount must have a sufficient ground.
You may already know this but running a 10 or 12 ga ground wire from the mount thru the tailgate to the body ensures an optimum ground.
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:22 AM   #73
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Has anybody noticed their coax cable breaking where the tailgate swings? I ran mine with the wire harness and noticed that its breaking at that spot.
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Old 04-21-2013, 09:06 PM   #74
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I wouldn't trust the tire carrier a being sufficiently grounded. You really want a good ground. I ran a wire down to the frame.
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:21 AM   #75
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You may already know this but running a 10 or 12 ga ground wire from the mount thru the tailgate to the body ensures an optimum ground.
I went a head and bought some 10ga spkr wire, and a couple of those connectors that a bolt/screw can fit through, for a ground wire. They didn't crimp right, wire keeps coming out, so I have to find a soldering gun it would seem.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:39 AM   #76
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I went a head and bought some 10ga spkr wire, and a couple of those connectors that a bolt/screw can fit through, for a ground wire. They didn't crimp right, wire keeps coming out, so I have to find a soldering gun it would seem.
I soldered mine.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:17 PM   #77
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Well, I went out and bought a cheap soldering iron and finished one end of the grounding wire. While debating where to feed the coax and wire either the grommet on the right side, or the venting? I then noticed there isn't much body exposed on the inside of the vehicle.

My JKU Sport S has sthe rear subwoofer and it is mounted solid. Even after loosening the lower bolts on the floor so, could I put the other end of the ground wire under one of these bolts? Or, under one of the bolts that secures the hardtop to the body?

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:47 PM   #78
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Well, I went out and bought a cheap soldering iron and finished one end of the grounding wire. While debating where to feed the coax and wire either the grommet on the right side, or the venting? I then noticed there isn't much body exposed on the inside of the vehicle.

My JKU Sport S has sthe rear subwoofer and it is mounted solid. Even after loosening the lower bolts on the floor so, could I put the other end of the ground wire under one of these bolts? Or, under one of the bolts that secures the hardtop to the body?

Thanks in advance
Use this link for removing the subwoofer. Actually quite easy once you know how to do it: Remove Sub Box to Ground and Run Antenna Coax - 2DR 2012

I suggest using a star washer between the head of the bolt and the ground wire to ensure a good connection.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:09 AM   #79
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Use this link for removing the subwoofer. Actually quite easy once you know how to do it: Remove Sub Box to Ground and Run Antenna Coax - 2DR 2012

I suggest using a star washer between the head of the bolt and the ground wire to ensure a good connection.

Your link for the sub box info. takes me to mounting a CB to the footmans loop?
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:08 AM   #80
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Your link for the sub box info. takes me to mounting a CB to the footmans loop?
Try scrolling up after clicking the link.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:47 AM   #81
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I made a video showing how to test your antenna has a good grounding spot with a multimeter.
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:09 AM   #82
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Try scrolling up after clicking the link.

Ooooh!
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:04 AM   #83
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Dont buy a new one. Buy used. Preferably galaxy. Quality has gone down significantly about ten years ago and there is an abundance of used ones from truckers who quit....

cobras suck now, they used to be good. Now they will fail from sitting on a shelf not being used....

The 2 digit galaxies are cool but are actually illegal. The fcc no longer enforces cb regulations as long as you only piss cb people off.

I run a galaxy 99 in my big rig puts out about 60 watts deadkey. The law is 4 watts. I paid 200 used. I plan on using a galaxy 949 in the jeep. Paid 50 for it and its actually a legal radio. These are 200 brand new.

Dont ever buy from a truckstop no matter what. Prices are often doubled... if you do, buy from pilot or ta, theyll accept returns for cash.
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Old 04-27-2013, 10:21 PM   #84
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I have a Galaxy 44dx I bought back in the mid 90s. Fried the circuit board in it (tuned/peaked several toys) Need to get it fixed but can't seem to find a place to mount it, except overhead. Guess I'm afraid of theft too. It has a lot of sentimental value
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:41 PM   #85
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Between Silver Sport and Rooster, I think I have the antenna mounted. Took quite a while trying to be careful removing the subwoofer. I'm not very good at soldering. Dont have a multi meter, so I hope everything is hooked up right. Won't find out for a few days, when I have time to try it out with the 75-822 with the new 3' firefly.
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:12 AM   #86
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Between Silver Sport and Rooster, I think I have the antenna mounted. Took quite a while trying to be careful removing the subwoofer. I'm not very good at soldering. Dont have a multi meter, so I hope everything is hooked up right. Won't find out for a few days, when I have time to try it out with the 75-822 with the new 3' firefly.
What antenna mount did you go with?
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:51 AM   #87
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What antenna mount did you go with?

I ordered the Teraflex stainless steel rear tire carrier mount. Only seen it advertised through Quadratek.
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:03 AM   #88
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I ordered the Teraflex stainless steel rear tire carrier mount. Only seen it advertised through Quadratek.
It's what i used. It's great.
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Old 04-28-2013, 03:37 AM   #89
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It's what i used. It's great.

I've heard often that it is not so much the radio, but the antenna hardware that is the critical componate. So I bought the stainless steel mount, since it will not rust and is a good material to mount to. I also bought the Wilson high quality coax, that has a protective boot and the removeable PL256 adaptor, which helps when you're feeding the coax through tight spots.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:29 AM   #90
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I've heard often that it is not so much the radio, but the antenna hardware that is the critical componate. So I bought the stainless steel mount, since it will not rust and is a good material to mount to. I also bought the Wilson high quality coax, that has a protective boot and the removeable PL256 adaptor, which helps when you're feeding the coax through tight spots.
I too used a stainless steel mount. I went with the CoolTech version.

I suggest a star washer between the ground wire connector and the mount.

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