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Center console 12v on all the time, why?

15K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  bobchase 
#1 ·
I just learned that the 12v plug in the center console is not switched, meaning that it is on all the time even when engine is off. Im bummed because I wanted to keep my garmin charged in there, but now Im worried that it will drain my battery. I know this is a first world problem, but Any solutions to this?
 
#2 ·
The easiest way is probably to wire it into the dash power outlet if you don't mind splicing into your wiring. Or get the Power Tap from Quadratec and locate a harness for the console outlet, run the wires, and all your factory wiring is intact.

The fuse is 20A so even if you conservatively limit yourself to 10A total, it's still enough juice to charge a tablet, a phone and a GPS on each socket.
 
#4 ·
What i did is run some 16 gauge wires from the batter through the firewall hole(the one thats even with the dash) and bought one of those 12volt sockets with the wires attached already .pepboys sells them $9.99 pluged gps into that and hid the wire and plug behind the passenger side glove box speaker area. I hate to see wires.as long as you are driving the the jeep every couple days you wont drain your battery
 
#11 ·
Revisiting this topic again. Is there any way to rewire the 12v plug in the center console storage box to one of the blank switched slots in the fuse box? For example, I have empty slots for where the stock heated seat fuses would have gone. Can I rewire things to have the 12v plug to draw through one of those fuses? I'm obviously a newb to this. Forgive my ignorance.
 
#12 ·
Easiest way to confirm is to test with a multimeter. I think this is probably the easiest solution:

The easiest way is probably to wire it into the dash power outlet if you don't mind splicing into your wiring. Or get the Power Tap from Quadratec and locate a harness for the console outlet, run the wires, and all your factory wiring is intact.

The fuse is 20A so even if you conservatively limit yourself to 10A total, it's still enough juice to charge a tablet, a phone and a GPS on each socket.
 
#13 ·
I believe they made this outlet constant power because so many folks put a CB or HAM radio in the console. Many radios need a little bit of power all the time so they don't forget their programming. (Favorite channels, etc).

I agree that it is kind of annoying when you use it for something else.
 
#18 ·
Have they changed things since the 2010 outlets? I know in my JK the outlet nearest to the driver is on/off with the vehicle while the one on the passengers side is always on. I'll leave my phone plugged into the always on side overnight while camping to charge it back up.
 
#19 · (Edited)
I am in no way liable for this mod.. if you decide to do so, it's all on you. so check your work. If your poop burns to the ground, it isn't my fault..

This is what I came up with on my 2014 JKU.

Pic #1. is the under hood fuse box (Duh).. Fuses are labeled as to where they go.



Pic #2. shows input and output sides of said fuses, and if constant hot or not.



Pic #2, also shows what I did with a jumper wire. to verify if the power outlet in the console can be switched with the key.

The sub/rear outlet (M7) is switchable from a constant hot (right position), to a not (left position, now keyed). by moving said fuse. By removing the M36 (center console) fuse, and running a a jumper wire to the switched side of the M7 slot, To the output side of the M36 fuse slot. The CC outlet is now in a keyed position.

The jumper wire is for the purpose of info, and showing what I did to get it to work. If you decide to build this.... I highly recommend using some sort of an inline fuse. The ends are on you, but might be possible to use the mini blade style fuse taps without the fuse. Connect the wires from the inline fuse to the taps, then insert said tap into the proper locations. shrink boot/tape up any exposed unused areas on wires and taps..

Again... I am not liable for you building this. Just saying, it appears it can be done. hell, I'm a moron. and I did it.


In case I didn't say it already... Liable, I am not. for you possibly burning (had to say it) your sh!t down .
 
#21 ·
I am in no way liable for this mod.. if you decide to do so, it's all on you. so check your work. If your poop burns to the ground, it isn't my fault..

This is what I came up with on my 2014 JKU.

Pic #1. is the under hood fuse box (Duh).. Fuses are labeled as to where they go.



Pic #2. shows input and output sides of said fuses, and if constant hot or not.



Pic #2, also shows what I did with a jumper wire. to verify if the power outlet in the console can be switched with the key.

The sub/rear outlet (M7) is switchable from a constant hot (right position), to a not (left position, now keyed). by moving said fuse. By removing the M36 (center console) fuse, and running a a jumper wire to the switched side of the M7 slot, To the output side of the M36 fuse slot. The CC outlet is now in a keyed position.

The jumper wire is for the purpose of info, and showing what I did to get it to work. If you decide to build this.... I highly recommend using some sort of an inline fuse. The ends are on you, but might be possible to use the mini blade style fuse taps without the fuse. Connect the wires from the inline fuse to the taps, then insert said tap into the proper locations. shrink boot/tape up any exposed unused areas on wires and taps..

Again... I am not liable for you building this. Just saying, it appears it can be done. hell, I'm a moron. and I did it.


In case I didn't say it already... Liable, I am not. for you possibly burning (had to say it) your sh!t down .
YES....an inline fuse would be required in the red jumper wire. I would not attempt this mod without using fuse protection.
 
#23 ·
I know this is an old thread but I haven’t seen any others with relevant information. I’d love to jump the m7 fuse to the fuse for the center console but I can’t access the pics from hafaday’s post. Has anyone else done this successfully that could share? I’m struggling with figuring out how to keep the m7 connected and fused while allowing the connection through to the center console fused as well. I was thinking of using something like this…Amazon Fuse Link
 
#26 ·
I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking but I believe that the adapter I linked will provide a fused connection across the m7 slot and also a separate fused connection to the center console slot. I just wanted to see if anyone has already done something similar.
 
#27 ·
If you were addressing me with the "not sure..." comment, let me explain.

The adapter has a raised section that elevates the two fuses in the adapter above the rest of the fuses in the box so that they can lay horizontally. As the adapter goes into the M7 slot, the horizontal fuses are located above the M6 fuse, which means that M6 cannot also be elevated by the connector at the other end of the adapter because of the fuses now installed above them.

Have I tried this - no. If the fuses were mounted vertically instead of horizontally would I try it? Maybe. I'd measure for continuity on the two wires before I used it because four fuses implies that there is continuity on both wires. If that is true, and all of the fuses are installed, then I would have cross-connected the continuous hot with the switched hot circuits in the jeep.
 
#28 ·
If you were addressing me with the "not sure..." comment, let me explain.

The adapter has a raised section that elevates the two fuses in the adapter above the rest of the fuses in the box so that they can lay horizontally. As the adapter goes into the M7 slot, the horizontal fuses are located above the M6 fuse, which means that M6 cannot also be elevated by the connector at the other end of the adapter because of the fuses now installed above them.

Have I tried this - no. If the fuses were mounted vertically instead of horizontally would I try it? Maybe. I'd measure for continuity on the two wires before I used it because four fuses implies that there is continuity on both wires. If that is true, and all of the fuses are installed, then I would have cross-connected the continuous hot with the switched hot circuits in the jeep.
Thanks for the clarification, and you are 100% correct. I tried that adapter and was successful in using it with 2 20 amp fuses in the slots above the m7 slot which connects the current for that slot and carrys the current across the wire to the other end. At the other end with a fuse in the upper slot and no fuse in the lower slot, the m6 slot is successfully bridged from m7 which allows the power outlet in the center console to switch off with the key. The only problem is as you described the fuses stick out horizontally and get in the way of the other fuses and the wires is so long that it actually gets in the way of closing the fuse box door. See 1st pic below.

The fix was to use an adapter with the double fuse slots on one side and a single slotted fuse tap on the other. I used this one from Amazon…
Mini Blade Fuse Tap

As the wire is open on one end, I had to add a small terminal to stick in the slot.
See second pic.
 

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