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Old 04-14-2013, 09:26 PM   #1
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Changing Diff Fluid and Greasing

Hi, I have a 2011 Wrangler sport. I went mudding recently and have read that you should change your diff fluid and grease up your jeep after. Im new to jeeps so I dont know much. What fluid do I put in the diff's, and what type of grease should I use. I have youtubed how to change the diff fluid and it looks pretty simple. Although, I am wondering what parts I need to grease.

Thanks,
Riley

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Old 04-14-2013, 09:47 PM   #2
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You only need to change diff fluid at recommended intervals or unless you have water in them- the oil would be milky.

I grease fittings every oil change for longevity. :thumbs:

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Old 04-14-2013, 09:51 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by bvanfossen View Post
You only need to change diff fluid at recommended intervals or unless you have water in them- the oil would be milky.

I grease fittings every oil change for longevity. :thumbs:
How do I know if I got water in them? I did go through some deep mud/water holes a few times just want to take all the precautions of keeping my jeep in good condition.

Also, what all parts do I need to grease, and what grease would you recommend?
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:29 AM   #4
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As a safety after going through deep water, they recommends changing the fluids in case it does have water. It should look milky, but you probably should change it regardless of how it looks to be on the safe side. $10s of dollors for fluids is better than a while new drive system!
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:51 AM   #5
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From what I've read, there's nothing to grease on a stock jeep. No zerks.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:55 AM   #6
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From what I've read, there's nothing to grease on a stock jeep. No zerks.
Yep
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:11 PM   #7
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Does anybody know what type of fluid it takes?
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:16 PM   #8
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Did it yesterday for the first time myself. Very easy and used about 3 litres total. 2 in the back and 1 in the front. This stuff. I notice the pic I posted says for motorcycles etc. Not sure if there is a difference but make sure you buy the right stuff. I know I used HYPOY C for mine.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:17 PM   #9
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Does anybody know what type of fluid it takes?
I believe 80w90. Nothing to grease on stock parts. I wouldn't even go crazy with changing the fluid after a little water. Unless its sandy water. Your axle seals should hold up ok. I would just change at scheduled maintenance. Read your manual
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:03 PM   #10
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Do stock JK's have limited slip differentials? I was watching a youtube video and it said to check if you do, because you might need to add an additive for it.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:53 PM   #11
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:44 PM   #12
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Whats the correct fluid for a 2012 sahara? The manual I think states 85-90 but the pics above show 75-90. Any advice?
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:03 PM   #13
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whats the correct fluid for a 2012 sahara? The manual i think states 85-90 but the pics above show 75-90. Any advice?

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Old 04-15-2013, 11:13 PM   #14
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If you don't tow then 75w90 is good.
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:14 PM   #15
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The 85W-90 is conventional gear oil. The 75W-90 and 75W-140 are synthetic gear oils. Any of them will work fine in the JK differentials (clutch-type limited slips require synthetic gear oil or a LS additive to the conventional oil).
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:39 PM   #16
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Whatever you do don't use Amsoil. It's old school and not made for today's tight tolerance components. Even engines can have their warranties void if amsoil is used.
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Old 04-15-2013, 11:57 PM   #17
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Whatever you do don't use Amsoil. It's old school and not made for today's tight tolerance components. Even engines can have their warranties void if amsoil is used.
That's all they run at the shop I go to. Guess there are a bunch of ticking time bombs out there?!
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:04 AM   #18
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Whatever you do don't use Amsoil. It's old school and not made for today's tight tolerance components. Even engines can have their warranties void if amsoil is used.
Nowhere near the galaxy called "accurate".

Do you have any credible citations to back those statements up?

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Old 04-16-2013, 02:28 AM   #19
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Yea I have a hard time believing that Amsoil is not a quality product. I know they make quality products motocross and street bikes, I dont understand how a company of that stature wouldnt keep up their R&D program to compete in the auto industry
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Old 04-16-2013, 02:38 AM   #20
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I just did some research on this Amsoil topic, and everyone from Corvette guys with LS3's to rally racers, many people swear by their product and recommend it over Royal Purple. Personally I'll run Mobil 1 synthetic because its readily available at my Napa, but I would like to support Amsoil because they are a smaller company and have put on many motocross events.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:19 AM   #21
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Whatever you do don't use Amsoil. It's old school and not made for today's tight tolerance components. Even engines can have their warranties void if amsoil is used.
Im sorry, but what are you talking about? In ANY test, for ANY fluid, Amsoil fluids are bar none the best in the industry. The only gear oil as good as Amsoil is LE Engineering. Old school? Warranties void? don't spread misinformation.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:20 AM   #22
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Nowhere near the galaxy called "accurate".

Do you have any credible citations to back those statements up?

No he does not because I have proof of exactly the opposite, that in EVERY test (with the exception of the arctic temp shear test where it came in 2nd) Amsoil is #1.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:53 AM   #23
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LOL

LOL

AMSOIL the worst in the business eh?

LOL

Ummm,,, wrong.

How about some Penzoil 10W40 in the engine too. They have race cars in their commercials so that will make it last.

My RR wheel bearing went out after 18K (warantee) & the dealer was nice enough to not change the diff fluid while recommending their $250 diff treatment "package." Thanks LHM. High quality warantee work. Anyone ever hear of changing a wheel bearing & not changing the fluid / repacking? Maybe I'll try running a bearing right out of the box without greasing on my next brake job. That should do the trick. Oh yeah, & the dealer said that the front diff fluid had to be changed at the same time & my nice red p/s fluid needed to be changed too (service interval anyone). Interesting that the chalk mark on the oil fill & drain were still there on the front diff. Hmmmmm. I had no idea that I resembled a 16 year old little girl driving daddy's Jeep. My hairline would tend to disagree.

So I immediately went down to the local Amsoil outlet & picked up some 75 140 (since I tow occasionally) with the additive. I did it myself for about $80 the following day when their "membership" was included. (front was still nice & clean too btw but somehow I could not get the chalk marks to line back up perfectly)

That specific weight fluid has to be changed a little more frequently but is better under towing conditions.

Amsoil sucks , Oil membership

Not changing fluid with a fried bearing
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:34 PM   #24
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Can someone answer the question on whether or not a stock 2011 wrangler has a limited slip diff or not?
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:21 PM   #25
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Rguy01, I believe it is an option. Do you have your window sticker spec sheet, it will tell you. Mine is a 2010 but it was a option I choose.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:26 PM   #26
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and if you don't have your window sticker, you can go to the jeep website, and up in the top right hand corner there is a drop menu titled "owners"

set up an account (it's free) and type in your vin #, and you can access your build sheet, everything that was put into your particular wrangler when it left the factory floor.

if worse comes to worst, you can always pop your rear diff cover off and take a look-see
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:42 PM   #27
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If you don't tow then 75w90 is good.
I prefer 75w-140 due to the fact that we normally have modifications like larger tires & tend to use them offroad under more extreme conditions.

And the deal with water & mud then changing your fluid is because if the fluid & internals are real hot then submerged under water, the rapid cooling effect makes the pressure drop on the inside causing a vacuum type effect. And this vacuum can draw water into the housing thru axle seals or pinion seals. To check it, take the fill plug off & stick your finger in & see if the oil looks liek it has water in it. If you've been doing like a whole weekend of wheeling in deep mud & water for long periods of time, I would change it for peace of mind.
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:06 PM   #28
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What do I use on a rear and front diffs of a 07 rubi?? Ocacional towing
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:10 PM   #29
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I prefer 75w-140 due to the fact that we normally have modifications like larger tires & tend to use them offroad under more extreme conditions.

And the deal with water & mud then changing your fluid is because if the fluid & internals are real hot then submerged under water, the rapid cooling effect makes the pressure drop on the inside causing a vacuum type effect. And this vacuum can draw water into the housing thru axle seals or pinion seals. To check it, take the fill plug off & stick your finger in & see if the oil looks liek it has water in it. If you've been doing like a whole weekend of wheeling in deep mud & water for long periods of time, I would change it for peace of mind.
I discussed the lube weight with my gear guy (he and his shop built and warranties all of their work, he's also been wheeling out here in AZ for decades (it kinda gets hot out here and there are lots of rocks to wheel on), built numerous vehicles including many buggies, and his JK even made it into JP Magazine) as I was wanting to put in 75W-140 too. He asked if I was towing and I said no. He then asked why I wanted to put in 75W-140 and I said because I thought it was a "better" thing to do because I would be wheeling it. He indicated that 75W-140 is good for towing (as itís thicker when hot to help keep the gears separated when constantly pulling a load). When not towing it will get hotter (because itís thicker) which doesnít help with the life of the bearings, and it will slightly decrease your MPG (because itís thicker). I again asked about 75W-140 for wheeling, and he said he doesnít recommend it and doesnít use it in his vehicles. He built his vehicles way more than I ever will and wheels them harder than I can. I know some (many?) that donít tow put 75W-140 in the rear and even front.

I do change out the oil (actually all fluids) more often than recommend by Chrysler due to wheeling.

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