Very informative link, Daggo66. As far as the pics go. I just use a trick my grandfather taught me and I don't have to bleed the brakes, at all.
If you monitor your brake wear, on a regular basis, you should never have to add fluid. The cap is designed to adjust to to the fluid levels in the brake lines, with normal wear and tear. Ever had to push that rubber liner back into the cap? If you have to add fluid, you probably have a leak.
The trick? When you start to disassemble the brake caliper, the shoes will probably be lodged against the discs. With the Master Cylinder cap ON, take a large screwdriver (or punch) and gently push the the shoe/caliper in. Do not wedge the screwdriver between the disc and pad. That will score your rotor. Disassemble as shown in the link.
Using the old brake pad and a C-clamp (I use a 6 inch normally, but one car took an 8 inch), compress the cylinders until they clear the new pads and rotor. Reassemble as shown.
When done, start the Jeep and gently depress the brake pedal a few times. You'll feel the pressure build up. Drop it off the stands and drive it slowly around the block. Hit the brakes a few times. Check levels and add if needed (probably not). Also check each brake line for fluid leaks. Shouldn't be any, but you never know with reassembly.
Since you didn't really open the system, there should be no air in the system. So, you don't have to bleed the system. I've done this on over 30 vehicles and never had a problem. Except for the one that blew out when I used the clamp. After the rebuild, I used the traditional bleeding sequence.