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Old 05-08-2012, 03:10 PM   #1
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Check engine light and P0830

Just had my jeep brought in for a check engine light at 3k miles. Thought it was the ticking head of death. They pulled the code and it was P0830. Apparently a clutch relay switch issue. They opened a star report and Jeep said it was possibly from riding on the clutch while driving. So for those with of you who have manuals I guess just be aware of riding on the clutch and not having it fully disengage.

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Old 05-09-2012, 06:59 AM   #2
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Ok, biting my tongue on this one.

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Old 05-09-2012, 08:04 AM   #3
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Shouldn't that be the case with any manual car
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:00 AM   #4
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probably and I don't ride with the clutch in. In traffic or going between gears often I may leave my foot on it but did not believe I had it engaged. Guess it is more sensitive than every other stick I ever drove.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:03 PM   #5
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I have read the samething on a different forum and I too have the same problem with my 2013 JK 6 speed. I need to find another place where I can rest my foot
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:35 PM   #6
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You should not be resting your foot on the clutch pedal. Unfortunately, score one for the dealer.
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:57 PM   #7
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hmmm. The clutch relay engages when the clutch isn't fully depressed? or are there two relays? one to cut the cruise control if the pedal is touched and another for the neutral safety switch?

guess i'll have to try this later. if you can't start it with the clutch pushed down an inch, i guess there are two sensors
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:15 PM   #8
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Code

I have had mine for a year, bought it with 36000, now have 50000 on it no problems YET! And I ride with my foot on clutch, not pressing it, just resting it there. I will have to find a new place to rest my foot!
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:20 PM   #9
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I have had mine for a year, bought it with 36000, now have 50000 on it no problems YET! And I ride with my foot on clutch, not pressing it, just resting it there. I will have to find a new place to rest my foot!
even if you aren't causing enough pressure for the clutch to partially disengage, you're probably pushing the throwout bearing against the pressure plate, which causes unnecessary wear to the bearing ('specially since these tobs are prone to premature failure).
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:48 PM   #10
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Hopefully anyone else with this issue won't have to wait 2 weeks to get their Jeep back like I did... Dear Chrysler, a 200 is not a suitable replacement.
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:57 PM   #11
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Ugh!!! Got this OBD code. I've been driving sticks only for 25 years and don't ride the clutch. This code will not reset for me. Guess this is something wrong with my 2013 Jeep which has only 500 miles on it.
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Old 12-27-2012, 04:32 PM   #12
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I love the fact that I can rest my foot under the clutch pedal. First vehicle I've been able to do so and I love it!
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:21 PM   #13
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I have read the samething on a different forum and I too have the same problem with my 2013 JK 6 speed. I need to find another place where I can rest my foot
my TOB is fried due to riding the clutch. dealer is replacing the clutch next week. i have less than 2000 miles on my 2013
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:26 AM   #14
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I love the fact that I can rest my foot under the clutch pedal. First vehicle I've been able to do so and I love it!
Your post made me think what I was doing.. and so today I looked, and yes, I too am resting my foot under the clutch pedal..

Sooooooo much space !!
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Old 01-24-2013, 09:18 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by mathew85

Your post made me think what I was doing.. and so today I looked, and yes, I too am resting my foot under the clutch pedal..

Sooooooo much space !!
I can't do it comfortably with boots.. Not with out bumping the pedal.. But most shoes.. SO much room. Love it
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:48 PM   #16
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Code P0830 Trouble

I just had a similar issue. My wife drives our 2013 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon typically, and on her way home tonight, she said the check engine light came on. The jeep seemed to operate normally, but the light was on. I took it for a drive and it seemed fine to me, but just to check, I took it to my local Autozone to see what was triggering the code, and the P0830 code is what came up.

On a possibly related note, I've had two other issues with the jeep that have gone unsolved by jeep. On several occasions, when driving with cruise control, moving down the highway, the car would suddenly drop out of cruise, and we'd slow down. No check engine lights came on, and when we mentioned it to the dealership, they told us nothing could be done since there was no error code. Now that I see the description of the P0830 code, it sure seems plausible that the short in the clutch depressed switch would trigger the cruise control to think I had hit the clutch and disengage.

The second issue that I've experienced is that the transmission seems to make a lot of noise. I test drove about a dozen similar 2012 jeeps prior to buying mine, and all were quiet. I bought mine in August of 2012, which is when the 2013 models were just coming around. The dealer didn't have and couldn't find the 2012, White Unlimited Rubicon, with a manual transmission, and body color top and fenders we were looking for, but they were able to find a 2013. We had driven a 2012, and assumed that a 2013 would be just as good or better. Any way, the transmission makes noises like i've heard from mustangs with short throw shifters. It doesn't do it all the time, but it seems to do it a lot at slow speeds (30-45mph) in 4th gear, especially when going up hill, or accelerating. It seems to get worse when the car warms up. It's been to the dealer several times for this, and the chrysler techs say that the noise is normal. Due to my work schedule, I have never had the time to take the techs to a place where I can demonstrate the noise repeatably. Of the dozen jeeps I've driven, only mine seems to make this 'normal' noise. The Jeep techs tried to play it off as though the fact that this is a jeep wrangler, that NVH issues are just part of the experience. While I agree that a rough ride, wind noise, poor handling, high speed stability, and tire noise are common for a rubicon, metallic gear noise shouldn't be.

I know that got long, but has anyone else experienced similar results from their 2013 jeep? Maybe I should start my own thread for this part of my question?
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Old 03-01-2013, 04:09 AM   #17
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I just had a similar issue. My wife drives our 2013 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon typically, and on her way home tonight, she said the check engine light came on. The jeep seemed to operate normally, but the light was on. I took it for a drive and it seemed fine to me, but just to check, I took it to my local Autozone to see what was triggering the code, and the P0830 code is what came up.

On a possibly related note, I've had two other issues with the jeep that have gone unsolved by jeep. On several occasions, when driving with cruise control, moving down the highway, the car would suddenly drop out of cruise, and we'd slow down. No check engine lights came on, and when we mentioned it to the dealership, they told us nothing could be done since there was no error code. Now that I see the description of the P0830 code, it sure seems plausible that the short in the clutch depressed switch would trigger the cruise control to think I had hit the clutch and disengage.

The second issue that I've experienced is that the transmission seems to make a lot of noise. I test drove about a dozen similar 2012 jeeps prior to buying mine, and all were quiet. I bought mine in August of 2012, which is when the 2013 models were just coming around. The dealer didn't have and couldn't find the 2012, White Unlimited Rubicon, with a manual transmission, and body color top and fenders we were looking for, but they were able to find a 2013. We had driven a 2012, and assumed that a 2013 would be just as good or better. Any way, the transmission makes noises like i've heard from mustangs with short throw shifters. It doesn't do it all the time, but it seems to do it a lot at slow speeds (30-45mph) in 4th gear, especially when going up hill, or accelerating. It seems to get worse when the car warms up. It's been to the dealer several times for this, and the chrysler techs say that the noise is normal. Due to my work schedule, I have never had the time to take the techs to a place where I can demonstrate the noise repeatably. Of the dozen jeeps I've driven, only mine seems to make this 'normal' noise. The Jeep techs tried to play it off as though the fact that this is a jeep wrangler, that NVH issues are just part of the experience. While I agree that a rough ride, wind noise, poor handling, high speed stability, and tire noise are common for a rubicon, metallic gear noise shouldn't be.

I know that got long, but has anyone else experienced similar results from their 2013 jeep? Maybe I should start my own thread for this part of my question?
Dropping out of cruise is normal in a manual when going up a hill, you need to downshift. Had this happen for the first time on my last trip. Ask the other jeeps in our group about this and this and all the manual jeeps had experienced it. Annoying since I've never had a stick that did this. The engine light will go away after about 500 miles. She was probably riding the clutch. I had the light go on after riding the clutch around a corner at about 15 mph. Went away after 500 miles.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:00 PM   #18
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Dropping out of cruise is normal in a manual when going up a hill, you need to downshift. Had this happen for the first time on my last trip. Ask the other jeeps in our group about this and this and all the manual jeeps had experienced it. Annoying since I've never had a stick that did this. The engine light will go away after about 500 miles. She was probably riding the clutch. I had the light go on after riding the clutch around a corner at about 15 mph. Went away after 500 miles.
My cruise didn't drop out going up hill every time, in fact, probably half the time I was going down hill. As far as the cruise knows, a hill is no different than wind, or any other load. I understand if it drops out of cruise if it determines it cannot maintain speed after a prolonged period, but in these cases, the jeep was pulling strong as it had been for 10s of miles, but suddenly drops out.

My Jeep's at the dealership now getting the clutch depressed sensor replaced right now. The tech there told my wife essentially the same thing I described here in terms of the cruise. No word on the transmission noise yet.
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Old 03-01-2013, 06:08 PM   #19
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My cruise didn't drop out going up hill every time, in fact, probably half the time I was going down hill. As far as the cruise knows, a hill is no different than wind, or any other load. I understand if it drops out of cruise if it determines it cannot maintain speed after a prolonged period, but in these cases, the jeep was pulling strong as it had been for 10s of miles, but suddenly drops out.

My Jeep's at the dealership now getting the clutch depressed sensor replaced right now. The tech there told my wife essentially the same thing I described here in terms of the cruise. No word on the transmission noise yet.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/201...le-184703.html

There are quite a few people with the noise, but I don't consider it normal. Chrysler doesn't either, otherwise they wouldn't have approved the parts and labor. Unfortunately, there isn't one solution. Mine is booked in next week for round 3.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:32 AM   #20
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http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/201...le-184703.html

There are quite a few people with the noise, but I don't consider it normal. Chrysler doesn't either, otherwise they wouldn't have approved the parts and labor. Unfortunately, there isn't one solution. Mine is booked in next week for round 3.
Thanks for your post. I looked at your video links, and I haven't tried what I saw there, but I will tonight. Mine is a 2013, which apparently has some design changes, so I'm not sure how apt a comparison will be. It's good to know that it is possible to have Jeep fix a transmission issue!
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:00 AM   #21
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Thanks for your post. I looked at your video links, and I haven't tried what I saw there, but I will tonight. Mine is a 2013, which apparently has some design changes, so I'm not sure how apt a comparison will be. It's good to know that it is possible to have Jeep fix a transmission issue!
the 2012 and 2013 are mechanically identical. The changes were only cosmetic. This transmission actually dates back to the previous generation (introduced in 04 I believe).

I just dropped mine off at the dealer for round 3.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:20 AM   #22
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the 2012 and 2013 are mechanically identical. The changes were only cosmetic. This transmission actually dates back to the previous generation (introduced in 04 I believe).

I just dropped mine off at the dealer for round 3.
Our information differs then. I'm not saying it's a completely new transmission, but that there are internal revisions meant to address some issue or another (the tech I'm referring to mentioned a tendency for 2007-2012 Jeeps to pop out of 1st, and that some shift fork has been enlarged for 2013; I have no other source for this information), and so comparisons of noises may not be 100%. This is based on info I was told by a tech at the dealership I bought my Jeep from. Given the level of honesty I've received from that dealership, who knows if I should believe that. The fact that they "fixed" issues with the 2007-2012 transmission in my 2013 has been the basis for Jeep telling me that there's nothing wrong with mine, and because there's nothing wrong, there's nothing to fix. They also tell me that the noise I hear is normal, even though of the 12 2012 & 2013 Jeeps I've driven, this is the only one I've heard do it. Perhaps they mean normal in that a lot of people experience the problem, and it would cost too much money to admit it's an issue.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:33 AM   #23
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The cruise control will also disengage if you hit a large enough bump. If a wheel loses traction the on board system automatically applies the brake to that wheel (ever so slightly) and that will cancel the CC.

You should never ride the clutch at all in any situation not even in the short gears (first to second) I always remove my foot completely from the pedal between every shift. If you learn it the correct way from the start, clutch wear and TOB wear will never be an issue.

My last vehicle got 165,000 miles on the original clutch and it was still going strong when I sold it. I got 90,000 miles on the original brakes as well. If used correctly a manual transmission is so much easier on your driveline and brake components and makes for a more reliable vehicle.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:37 AM   #24
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Our information differs then. I'm not saying it's a completely new transmission, but that there are internal revisions meant to address some issue or another (the tech I'm referring to mentioned a tendency for 2007-2012 Jeeps to pop out of 1st, and that some shift fork has been enlarged for 2013; I have no other source for this information), and so comparisons of noises may not be 100%. This is based on info I was told by a tech at the dealership I bought my Jeep from. Given the level of honesty I've received from that dealership, who knows if I should believe that. The fact that they "fixed" issues with the 2007-2012 transmission in my 2013 has been the basis for Jeep telling me that there's nothing wrong with mine, and because there's nothing wrong, there's nothing to fix. The also tell me that the noise I hear is normal, even though of the 12 2012 & 2013 Jeeps I've driven, this is the only one I've heard do it. Perhaps they mean normal in that a lot of people experience the problem, and it would cost too much money to admit it's an issue.
I haven't heard anything about a shift fork change, interesting. I know the gear ratios are slightly different from 2007-2011 and 2012-2013. The pop-out of gear fix was introduced around December 2011. All they did was trim the rubber boot.

The one i test drove also did not rattle. Mine didn't really start until about 1500 miles. The dealership got approval from Chrysler twice to repair mine, so they can't consider it normal. The amount of noise I get is definitely not healthy.
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:52 AM   #25
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I haven't heard anything about a shift fork change, interesting. I know the gear ratios are slightly different from 2007-2011 and 2012-2013. The pop-out of gear fix was introduced around December 2011. All they did was trim the rubber boot.

The one i test drove also did not rattle. Mine didn't really start until about 1500 miles. The dealership got approval from Chrysler twice to repair mine, so they can't consider it normal. The amount of noise I get is definitely not healthy.
I have new hope after reading this thread. I'm working with a new dealer, so I hope I get somewhere with them. So far, they've been a lot better, and much more typical of other dealerships that I've dealt with in the past.
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:10 PM   #26
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I have a 2013 Wrangler with the clutch/engine light problem. It is not about "riding the clutch", but is clutch related. If you are stopped, and you depress the clutch to move forward a little, but the car does not record a "motion", and you do this twice, it sets the code. Apparently even for an automatic, if you somehow depress the brake and gas in a certain way, you get disciplined. I've driven stick shifts my whole life, and I live in a world of stop-and-go traffic, so of course I do this. If they want to put a "bad driver" light in, or write down every time I do this, fine. But they can't take my light away that tells me when i have a real engine problem. This is not an engine problem! Also, apparently, if you're a good boy for a few "drive cycles" it will turn the light back off. I was told a software fix was being developed for it, then it appeared and was installed. My car was error code free for a month or more, but then it couldn't take it any more, so it's back. If a software update can change the response, how could the problem be my driving? I'm still hoping this is due to faulty clutch switches. Hard to know how the computer really works. What else are they monitoring? Will the car shut off if I gain 5 pounds?
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:15 PM   #27
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You'll get a kick out of this. I was frustrated with the clutch/check engine light problem which wasn't getting fixed, and I was at the dealership. I noticed a white shirt sitting there, turns out he was one of the owners! I tried to get his sympathy so I asked him, "is it ok for me to put black tape over a check engine light?" He told me it was probably OK. He had done something similar with a truck he had (pulled the lamp). Time for a new dealer! He said he could set me up to talk to a salesman, since I told him i wanted another car. That was great! Would he help me walk through the lemon law or something? No, but he can sell you a new car! Clueless.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:06 PM   #28
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I have a 2013 Wrangler with the clutch/engine light problem. It is not about "riding the clutch", but is clutch related. If you are stopped, and you depress the clutch to move forward a little, but the car does not record a "motion", and you do this twice, it sets the code. Apparently even for an automatic, if you somehow depress the brake and gas in a certain way, you get disciplined. I've driven stick shifts my whole life, and I live in a world of stop-and-go traffic, so of course I do this. If they want to put a "bad driver" light in, or write down every time I do this, fine. But they can't take my light away that tells me when i have a real engine problem. This is not an engine problem! Also, apparently, if you're a good boy for a few "drive cycles" it will turn the light back off. I was told a software fix was being developed for it, then it appeared and was installed. My car was error code free for a month or more, but then it couldn't take it any more, so it's back. If a software update can change the response, how could the problem be my driving? I'm still hoping this is due to faulty clutch switches. Hard to know how the computer really works. What else are they monitoring? Will the car shut off if I gain 5 pounds?
Very interesting. So, my wife just got this code on her '14 JK 5-Speed with less than 10K miles. Should I just reset the light, keep driving like a "good boy" until it turns off, or bring it to the dealer to check for a software update or fix a "faulty clutch switch? I don't want to void the warranty.

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