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Old 12-14-2012, 10:25 AM   #1
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Angry Clunk in 2012 JKU

I have a clunk that sounds like it's coming from either the post between the left side doors or the left side passenger door. It only happens when you hit a bump a certain way. When I get in the back seat and have my wife drive, it doesn't clunk. I've even tried leaning between the front seats from the passenger front, but it won't make the sound then either. I've had it to the local dealer three times and they can't find it either. They even replaced the front seat belt/shoulder strap assembly and the lower post trim, but it didn't make any difference. They said that they isolated it from the fenders that can move around. I just changed from my 35" tires/Rugged Ridge wheels to the stock setup for the winter, but it didn't make any difference. I have a 2-1/2" RC lift, OME HD front springs, ACE rock sliders, F911 hardware that is properly torqued, RR XHD front and rear bumpers, tire carrier, winch, and HID lights on a bull bar, so I do carry several hundred more pounds than stock. The dealer said it is from body flexing because of the lift. I find this hard to believe. I've never taken it off-road....yet. Does anyone else have this issue?

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Old 12-14-2012, 12:52 PM   #2
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Don't know if this is the same. I had a "clunk" when turning a corner. Narrowed it down from the top to the back soft top window bar tires finally discovering it was my rear seat latch. It had play on the left side. I removed the seat and went away. Once reinstalled I haven't had the problem since. Good luck!!!

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Old 12-14-2012, 09:46 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Punkin Slinger View Post
I have a clunk that sounds like it's coming from either the post between the left side doors or the left side passenger door. It only happens when you hit a bump a certain way. When I get in the back seat and have my wife drive, it doesn't clunk. I've even tried leaning between the front seats from the passenger front, but it won't make the sound then either. I've had it to the local dealer three times and they can't find it either. They even replaced the front seat belt/shoulder strap assembly and the lower post trim, but it didn't make any difference. They said that they isolated it from the fenders that can move around. I just changed from my 35" tires/Rugged Ridge wheels to the stock setup for the winter, but it didn't make any difference. I have a 2-1/2" RC lift, OME HD front springs, ACE rock sliders, F911 hardware that is properly torqued, RR XHD front and rear bumpers, tire carrier, winch, and HID lights on a bull bar, so I do carry several hundred more pounds than stock. The dealer said it is from body flexing because of the lift. I find this hard to believe. I've never taken it off-road....yet. Does anyone else have this issue?
I had this issue on my 2011 and 2012, bought at different dealers. The cause of my sound was from the drivers door latch. Some folks wrap tape around it to stop the clunk. Jeep issued a TSB back in the 2008-2009 timeframe for this problem. The fix was to put a special grease on the latches. Fixed 95% of the noise on my '11. When it developed on my '12, the dealer tried replacing the seatbelt first. When that didn't work, the the tech consulted a Chrysler engineer who told him to use the grease trick again. So far it has worked.
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Old 12-14-2012, 11:33 PM   #4
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I've got the clunk which I hear going over large bumps (some not all). I thought it as in the tire but will lube the latches and see what happens.
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:39 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info Silversport. I wrapped some electrical tape on the driver's door striker and it totally eliminated the noise. I went back to the local dealer and informed them. They looked up the TSB, # 23-024-08, and said that because it didn't apply to 2012 model Wranglers, they didn't make the connection. The grease is a Dupont Krytox that is a Mopar part no. 1-5019060AA. However, that part was superseded by another that is no longer available. They did a search on other area dealers and found two that had the grease in their parts inventory. I called the closest, about 25 miles away, and they have one tube left. The 1-1/2 oz. tube costs $35, but because my Jeep is still under warranty, I made an appointment to have them do it in a couple of days. Chrysler must have already paid out over $1,000 in warranty work to the local dealer for nothing. Hopefully, this takes care of the problem permanently. If not, I can always go back to the tape on the striker. Thanks again!
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:47 PM   #6
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Yeah, it seems as if Jeep thinks the problem is fixed. And yeah the little tube of grease is expensive. Glad to hear you got a "handle" on it!
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:13 AM   #7
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It's been several days since the grease was applied to all four door latches. The noise is completely gone! Chrysler may want to consider extending the TSB to include the newer models, or, better yet, apply the grease during assembly at the factory!
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:39 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Punkin Slinger
It's been several days since the grease was applied to all four door latches. The noise is completely gone! Chrysler may want to consider extending the TSB to include the newer models, or, better yet, apply the grease during assembly at the factory!
Where exactly do you apply the grease? I have the same noise on my '12 JKU.
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Old 12-24-2012, 11:04 AM   #9
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I may try grease later, but I used duct tape on the striker and it solved my problem.
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Old 12-24-2012, 02:09 PM   #10
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The TSB calls for applying the Dupont Krytex grease all over the latch on the door, as well as the striker, with a small brush. Work the grease into the latch and operate the door latch several times to make sure it is completely coated. Wipe off the striker on the door opening so that you don't get grease on your clothing. I'm not sure what kind of grease it is, but it is white, similar to lithium grease, in color.
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Old 12-24-2012, 03:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Punkin Slinger
The TSB calls for applying the Dupont Krytex grease all over the latch on the door, as well as the striker, with a small brush. Work the grease into the latch and operate the door latch several times to make sure it is completely coated. Wipe off the striker on the door opening so that you don't get grease on your clothing. I'm not sure what kind of grease it is, but it is white, similar to lithium grease, in color.
Thank you. I'll give it a try.
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:21 PM   #12
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I have the same issue, I also assumed it was the seatbelt. I'll let my dealer know. Thanks for the information! But, how does the grease fix a clunk? I understand it may cover up the noise by acting as a padding, however something is still wrong, like the catch being a tad too small for the latch?
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:14 PM   #13
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Can't you just adjust the striker? There is a star bit on them which should allow it to be adjusted a little bit. I would think the easy temporary fix is good short term but eventually the friction will do more damage down the road. Just seems logical to me to fix the issue rather than a bandaid.
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:41 AM   #14
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Does anyone have anything new to report on this issue? Since changing shocks from OEM to Rancho 9000 I am noticing this. I guess before the whole box was clunking but now it is just the door?

I thought I might just replicate the dealer fix but checking Amazon, a 2 oz. tube costs ~$60!
http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Krytox-...=dupont+krytox

Maybe whenever my time comes up for the current transmission line recall fix I'll ask the dealer...
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Old 11-13-2013, 09:14 AM   #15
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I just bought my JKU a couple weeks ago and noticed the same clunking noise, I'm glad I seen this post. Thanks guy's.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:38 PM   #16
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I have a 2011, and had this plus a rattle that drove me freakin nuts. I would skip electrical tape; just a patch for the real problem. Grease is essential, but that is a simple requirement of moving parts and is something that should be checked anyways - see your maintenance manual. However, that is not a fix. Adjust your door striker using a 45 torx. I found that moving it towards the center of the vehicle and up slightly completely fixed it. However, it took several attempts to get it to the sweet spot. Regardless, it is an easy and worthy fix.

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