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Old 09-02-2011, 10:36 PM   #1
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Clutch engagement point adjustable ?

Ok, Rubi's been home from the dealer now a whole 48 hours. One thing I noticed in driving it the first couple days is how the clutch engages very high in the pedal travel - e.g. not until the pedal is almost fully released. I would much prefer it engage much closer to the floor. I can't imagine there's any adjustability to it, but I just thought I ask all you JK gurus. Thanks in advance.

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Old 09-02-2011, 10:45 PM   #2
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I just changed the clutch out of my YJ, and I'm pretty sure the only way to adjust travel is to introduce air into the system... bad idea!

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Old 09-02-2011, 11:02 PM   #3
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My recollection--completely unfounded in any mechanical expertise, mind you--is that the hydraulic function of the clutch is such that you actually don't need to go all the way to the floor in the first place. I think it's only like the first 4" or so of travel that actually accomplishes anything, and the next few inches are basically just there because there's space to do it.

So the other solution is simply to push the clutch pedal only an inch or so past the point of engagement, make your shift, and then release. You'd engage almost immediately.
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:12 AM   #4
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Unfortunately the pedal is not adjustable - I made many enquiries to this as my pedal is higher than the brake pedal, and it engages when level with the brake pedal. They told me it was normal... So I checked a few in the lot and they were the same!

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Old 09-03-2011, 07:43 AM   #5
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^^Some of these international differences are truly puzzling. My clutch and brake pedal sit at the same height. Yours are clearly--very clearly--different. :confused;
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:49 AM   #6
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I've driven manual shift vehicles for many decades and the clutch on my JKU has given me the most trouble. After several months I'm *still* sometimes almost stalling the vehicle or reving the engine higher than desired when starting.

Just saying ...

- Keith -
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:55 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n1as
I've driven manual shift vehicles for many decades and the clutch on my JKU has given me the most trouble. After several months I'm *still* sometimes almost stalling the vehicle or reving the engine higher than desired when starting.

Just saying ...

- Keith -
That could be due to it being undergeared. The 3.21s in the heavy 4 door for example are pretty hard on the clutch.
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:16 AM   #8
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There is no adjustment since the system is hydraulic. You can have the system bled, that "might" help.

As far as the discussion goes of not pushing the clutch all the way to the floor when shifting, it is NOT a good idea. You have no way of telling if the clutch is fully released by partially depressing it. While it might appear to be shifting fine, because enough of the load is off the flywheel, the disk could be slipping against the flywheel glazing or even burning it. You won't know until several thousands of miles later.............It could be the difference of a clutch lasting 20,000 - 30,000 miles or even 40,000 - 50,000 miles, vs. having it possibly last the life of the vehicle. Many things factor in, but depressing it fully to the floor is the best thing to do.
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demarpaint View Post
depressing it fully to the floor is the best thing to do.
That's okay, I can use logic to tell when the clutch is disengaged enough to shift.
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:04 AM   #10
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That's okay, I can use logic to tell when the clutch is disengaged enough to shift.
Thats great, some people can't, so going to the floor is the best option. Does it grind going into reverse when pushed halfway to the floor? If its not grinding going into reverse its fully released.
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Old 09-03-2011, 11:06 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by MTH
^^Some of these international differences are truly puzzling. My clutch and brake pedal sit at the same height. Yours are clearly--very clearly--different. :confused;
Correction: Not true. I assumed they were level because they've always "felt" that way. Upon inspection, the clutch pedal is indeed a good bit higher than the brake pedal--though not as much as SeaComms' picture.
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Old 09-03-2011, 01:57 PM   #12
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Hum-- never looked at mine.
Somebody gave me advice to not depress all the way to the floor :clueless: I shift a lot smoother now and do not appear to be causing any harm. I was told because of it being hydraulic I don't have to depress fully?
More opinions please
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Old 09-03-2011, 02:33 PM   #13
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You can put a shorter/longer rod on the master cylinder to adjust it. When I had my firechicken I bought a modded master cylinder with a threaded rod that was adjustable. Anyway, I think you would need a shorter rod to move the engagement down.
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Old 09-03-2011, 02:53 PM   #14
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My pedal too is a bit higher than the brake FYI, not as bad as the pic earlier
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Hum-- never looked at mine.
Somebody gave me advice to not depress all the way to the floor :clueless: I shift a lot smoother now and do not appear to be causing any harm. I was told because of it being hydraulic I don't have to depress fully?
More opinions please
All Hydraulics do is make the effort required to push the clutch down easier, that in turn allows for a stronger pressure plate to be used if the mfg decides to use one. It makes it more user friendly in traffic. It also eliminates springs, linkage, and the need to adjust the clutch. You will also notice that if you dump the clutch the pedal comes up at the same speed, hydraulics meter it better than a spring and linkage system would. As I mentioned before, unless you know exactly where in the pedal travel the clutch fully releases it is not a good idea to partially press it down.

If you know how a clutch and syncros work you'll understand better. If I clutch is not fully released it is and riding against the flywheel it is slipping, and wearing, it is also causing wear on the syncros. The only time a clutch is not wearing is when it is fully released, or pressed down and totally off the flywheel, [then the TOB is wearing].
If you can get an adjustable rod, thread it to the point where the clutch is fully released and press it down to where the rod stops the travel you are fine! Otherwise how far to push it down until it is fully released is a guess. The clutch life is shortened every time the clutch is slipping against the flywheel because it wasn't fully released.

Remember the vehicle is new it will take a while for the wear to rear its ugly head. One thing to remember with a hydraulic clutch is you will not know when the clutch would have needed adjustment because of wear, they are 100% self adjusting. The only time you'll notice a change is if air is introduced into the system, the fluid breaks down from heat and moisture, or the floor around the master cylinder flexes when you step on the clutch. That's a common problem in older Fords with hydraulic clutches. HTH

As a side note resting your foot on the clutch pedal causes the TOB to wear, and get very hot.
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by demarpaint

All Hydraulics do is make the effort required to push the clutch down easier, that in turn allows for a stronger pressure plate to be used if the mfg decides to use one. It makes it more user friendly in traffic. It also eliminates springs, linkage, and the need to adjust the clutch. You will also notice that if you dump the clutch the pedal comes up at the same speed, hydraulics meter it better than a spring and linkage system would. As I mentioned before, unless you know exactly where in the pedal travel the clutch fully releases it is not a good idea to partially press it down.

If you know how a clutch and syncros work you'll understand better. If I clutch is not fully released it is and riding against the flywheel it is slipping, and wearing, it is also causing wear on the syncros. The only time a clutch is not wearing is when it is fully released, or pressed down and totally off the flywheel, [then the TOB is wearing].
If you can get an adjustable rod, thread it to the point where the clutch is fully released and press it down to where the rod stops the travel you are fine! Otherwise how far to push it down until it is fully released is a guess. The clutch life is shortened every time the clutch is slipping against the flywheel because it wasn't fully released.

Remember the vehicle is new it will take a while for the wear to rear its ugly head. One thing to remember with a hydraulic clutch is you will not know when the clutch would have needed adjustment because of wear, they are 100% self adjusting. The only time you'll notice a change is if air is introduced into the system, the fluid breaks down from heat and moisture, or the floor around the master cylinder flexes when you step on the clutch. That's a common problem in older Fords with hydraulic clutches. HTH

As a side note resting your foot on the clutch pedal causes the TOB to wear, and get very hot.
If I don't depress the pedal far enough it won't go into gear or grind if I miss altogether?
I don't rest my foot on the pedal like I did with my Tj, but I've been shifting the same way for 10 years. I learned stick on my Tj and had to replace the clutch at 150,000.

Thanks for the advice
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:07 PM   #17
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If you don't depress the clutch far enough it might grind or not go into gear, sometimes you get lucky. Sometimes it is released just far enough to appear to go in effortlessly but the clutch might be slipping against the flywheel. My point is this: unless you know exactly where the clutch is fully released by partially pushing it down, everything else is just a guess.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:16 AM   #18
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Thanks to all for the replies. Re: the original issue, anyone know where the adjustable pushrod for the master cylinder can be found? I would just like like my engagement point to be much closer to the floor so I can have my heel on the floorboard which gives much better clutch engagement control than having my entire leg in the air. Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:28 AM   #19
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The clutch was the only reason I didn't pick up a 6 speed. I hated the engagement point and the seating position required for me to push it all the way to the floor.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:31 AM   #20
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^^Some of these international differences are truly puzzling. My clutch and brake pedal sit at the same height. Yours are clearly--very clearly--different. :confused;
His appears to be RHD, which could have something to do with it.

So far I only have two complaints with our new Wrangler and the clutch is one of them. It has no feel at all! It might as well be a switch that controls an electrical actuator on the other end. Every vehicle we have that gets driven regularly is a standard and we do fine. The Wrangler I have to put way too much thought into to get it rolling. I'm still hoping it will go away in time, but after reading the comment above I'm not sure it will.

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