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Old 02-08-2013, 12:43 AM   #1
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Clutch pedal has no pressure and stuck in neutral.

Okay, a few weeks ago I had my clutch master cylinder and my clutch slave cylinder both replaced at the stealership. Long story short, I somehow wound up with contaminated fluid in the reservoir. Anyways, I have a new problem with what may be the same system. My clutch pedal goes straight to the floor. On the way home from work this evening, I accidentally downshifted from 4th to 3rd instead of up from 5th, and it revved up to around 8k rpm. Immediately after that, I threw it in neutral and coasted for a few second, then tried to put it back in 4th. It was very difficult to put it in gear, and I think the only reason it did was because I was still moving on the highway. The next stop light I got to, I couldn't for the life of me put it in first gear and had to coast downhill and basically jimmie it into 2nd to get home (I was only about a half mile away at this point).

Anyways, I know something is wrong, but not sure what. I can't shift into any gear and the clutch pedal isn't doing a thing. There's almost no pressure behind it at all. I've been trying to bleed the slave cylinder, thinking somehow I blew out the pressure in the lines or something, but I'm not sure I'm doing it right anyways.

Can anyone help me out on this?

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Old 02-08-2013, 12:53 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattdenney07
Okay, a few weeks ago I had my clutch master cylinder and my clutch slave cylinder both replaced at the stealership. Long story short, I somehow wound up with contaminated fluid in the reservoir. Anyways, I have a new problem with what may be the same system. My clutch pedal goes straight to the floor. On the way home from work this evening, I accidentally downshifted from 4th to 3rd instead of up from 5th, and it revved up to around 8k rpm. Immediately after that, I threw it in neutral and coasted for a few second, then tried to put it back in 4th. It was very difficult to put it in gear, and I think the only reason it did was because I was still moving on the highway. The next stop light I got to, I couldn't for the life of me put it in first gear and had to coast downhill and basically jimmie it into 2nd to get home (I was only about a half mile away at this point).

Anyways, I know something is wrong, but not sure what. I can't shift into any gear and the clutch pedal isn't doing a thing. There's almost no pressure behind it at all. I've been trying to bleed the slave cylinder, thinking somehow I blew out the pressure in the lines or something, but I'm not sure I'm doing it right anyways.

Can anyone help me out on this?
Call the dealer and request that they tow it in because it is unsafe to drive. If they give you a hard time talk to the service manager.

You paid to have it done right by a certified dealer. It's time for them to step up. No need to mention you tried to bleed it. Then they may incorrectly blame it on you.

Good luck and keep us posted!

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Old 02-08-2013, 01:55 AM   #3
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Call the dealer and request that they tow it in because it is unsafe to drive. If they give you a hard time talk to the service manager.

You paid to have it done right by a certified dealer. It's time for them to step up. No need to mention you tried to bleed it. Then they may incorrectly blame it on you.

Good luck and keep us posted!
Will do.

I've been looking into it a bit more online, as far as you can trust that at least. Neither cylinder is leaking at all, and I'm tempted to pull the slave cylinder off for a second to make sure the pushrod is actually moving. I'm really hoping it's not, because if it is, it's gonna be internal to that and that's tranny work. I guess we'll see.
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:36 AM   #4
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Don't mention the whole 8000rpm thing, you probably pretty damaged the engine doing that.
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Old 02-08-2013, 06:41 AM   #5
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Got your PM. Best I can say is to break it down one by one. The slave is a sealed unit, so it suddenly losing pressure due to fluid loss is a remote possibly, and if you don't see any fluid stains...most likely not it.

Take the slave off of the bell housing, take a look at the shift fork inside. Seem like it lines up in the slave opening in the bell housing ok, not bent or way out of alignment?

with your palm over the pushrod on the slave, providing back pressure, have someone lightly push the clutch in, can you feel any resistance? with little effort on the clutch pedal, the rod should push hard on your hand. If you have light pressure or no pressure...slave is bad.

while the slave is out, take the end of a socket wrench, or extension bar, anything long and round, and put it in the cup on the shift fork (where the slave would push) push forward on the fork...should be a ton of resistance...that means the clutch diaphragm fingers are still there.

A throw out bearing, if completely froze up, will squeal and make a racket when the clutch is pushed in, then be quiet as a mouse when the clutch is out. I dont think its your throw out bearing.

My money is on the slave having a bad internal seal, and can't build pressure. Its the weak link in the system. BUT...there is a chance that when you went to 8000rpm, you screwed up a syncronizer gear in your trans, and its little pieces are screwing up other syncros. They are brass and easily damaged. With out syncros you can shift, but have to have the RPM's right and its always a bit chunky to get it in gear

hope that helps. I dont know JK's that well, and for all I know a lot of what I described make be electronic by now!
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:30 AM   #6
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I wouldn't touch anything. Have it towed into the dealership and have them fix it. This all should be under warranty and if they find out you worked on it you will be blamed. Warranty will be denied.
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Old 02-08-2013, 08:54 AM   #7
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I wouldn't touch anything. Have it towed into the dealership and have them fix it. This all should be under warranty and if they find out you worked on it you will be blamed. Warranty will be denied.
Pshh, the clutch system's warranty went out the window when I initially had contaminated fluid in the reservoir anyways. No warranty to be denied. I'm still gonna call them and see, so I'll keep you guys updated.
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:02 AM   #8
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I wouldn't touch anything. Have it towed into the dealership and have them fix it. This all should be under warranty and if they find out you worked on it you will be blamed. Warranty will be denied.
Definitely^^
And rev limiter would protect your engine. Let's hope the tranny didn't take a hit. If it did maybe the STEALERSHIP will cover it or partially cover it due to what is hopefully their screw up.
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:06 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by mattdenney07

Pshh, the clutch system's warranty went out the window when I initially had contaminated fluid in the reservoir anyways. No warranty to be denied. I'm still gonna call them and see, so I'll keep you guys updated.
From what I have read, you stated you have the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder replaced and then the dealer would have had to bleed the system. Unless I am missing something? In which case A new warranty would be in existence because they replaced any damaged parts and bleed out the contaminated fluid.

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Either a component failed or they didn't bleed the system properly and then a component failed. Both would be the dealerships fault!
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:58 AM   #10
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From what I have read, you stated you have the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder replaced and then the dealer would have had to bleed the system. Unless I am missing something? In which case A new warranty would be in existence because they replaced any damaged parts and bleed out the contaminated fluid.

Either a component failed or they didn't bleed the system properly and then a component failed. Both would be the dealerships fault!
Yeah, I spoke too soon. Tow truck is on it's way. My guy at the dealership confirmed that they have a 12 month / 12k mile warranty on stuff like this and if one of the parts failed, they'll fix it up for me.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:08 AM   #11
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Got your PM. Best I can say is to break it down one by one. The slave is a sealed unit, so it suddenly losing pressure due to fluid loss is a remote possibly, and if you don't see any fluid stains...most likely not it.

Take the slave off of the bell housing, take a look at the shift fork inside. Seem like it lines up in the slave opening in the bell housing ok, not bent or way out of alignment?

with your palm over the pushrod on the slave, providing back pressure, have someone lightly push the clutch in, can you feel any resistance? with little effort on the clutch pedal, the rod should push hard on your hand. If you have light pressure or no pressure...slave is bad.

while the slave is out, take the end of a socket wrench, or extension bar, anything long and round, and put it in the cup on the shift fork (where the slave would push) push forward on the fork...should be a ton of resistance...that means the clutch diaphragm fingers are still there.

A throw out bearing, if completely froze up, will squeal and make a racket when the clutch is pushed in, then be quiet as a mouse when the clutch is out. I dont think its your throw out bearing.

My money is on the slave having a bad internal seal, and can't build pressure. Its the weak link in the system. BUT...there is a chance that when you went to 8000rpm, you screwed up a syncronizer gear in your trans, and its little pieces are screwing up other syncros. They are brass and easily damaged. With out syncros you can shift, but have to have the RPM's right and its always a bit chunky to get it in gear

hope that helps. I dont know JK's that well, and for all I know a lot of what I described make be electronic by now!
The fork that the slave pushes on has tons of pressure behind it. I could barely move it in a few mm, and it has no play in it up or down either, so I assume that's good.

There's no pressure being pushed out of the rod on the slave tho. When I was initially trying to bleed it in case of air when it first happened, hardly any fluid came out of the bleed valve when I opened it either. It's my understanding that there should be plenty of pressure and fluid escaping, right? I dunno, just thinking out loud.
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:35 AM   #12
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I am not sure about JK's

On a TJ, the system is sealed, the replacement actually ships with fluid in it, and you buy the whole thing, from the master to the slave. the only way to bleed it later in life is to work the plunger on the slave and hope that air is not caught in the system lines (TJ lines have a few turns and kinks in them) so if JK's have a bleed valve it should run fluid out it as you press the slave, or clutch pedal, how ever they say to do it. I am thinking there is a bad o-ring in the slave or master, and when you press the clutch, instead of it building pressure and moving the slave, the fluid just escapes past the o-ring, no pressure means no fork movement, and means no clutch disengagement.

Obviously I am arm chair quarterbacking this, but thats what it sounds like if the fork seems right and the slave has no pressure.
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Old 02-08-2013, 10:08 PM   #13
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I agree with kevbz; slave cylinder failure.
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:10 PM   #14
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Definitely^^
And rev limiter would protect your engine. Let's hope the tranny didn't take a hit. If it did maybe the STEALERSHIP will cover it or partially cover it due to what is hopefully their screw up.
On an over rev from a down shift, the rev limiter will not help, that only cuts out fuel if you are accelerating
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:19 PM   #15
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It sounds like a master clutch cylinder or slave cylinder, I just had both go out a week ago in my 1987 Toyota pickup.

For your information, should it happen again, and you are at a stop, turn the Jeep off, then put the transmission in 1st gear. Hold in the clutch pedal for the clutch starter switch, be careful, the Jeep will start to move as soon as you turn the key. The starter will move the Jeep forward and just give it some gas, the Jeep will start and you will be moving. Now for shifting, go to about 3-4k rpms, let of the gas and as you do that, pull the lever out of gear and shift, give a little gas if need to match engine & tranny rpms. Down shift is a little harder, but same idea. It works, because I drove my truck around for about 15 miles, getting parts and tools to fix my truck.
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:04 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by mattdenney07

Yeah, I spoke too soon. Tow truck is on it's way. My guy at the dealership confirmed that they have a 12 month / 12k mile warranty on stuff like this and if one of the parts failed, they'll fix it up for me.
Nice!
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Old 02-09-2013, 03:07 AM   #17
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On an over rev from a down shift, the rev limiter will not help, that only cuts out fuel if you are accelerating
Good point I failed to access that difference. And while at it, yeah I forgot the system is sealed too.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:31 AM   #18
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Update:

So apparently the Jeep gods have taken favor in me. I honestly can't say enough about my dealership and my service rep that works there. If anyone is in the Vegas area and looking for a solid rep to work with for pretty much anything at the dealership, John Wilson at Prestige Chrysler is your man to go to.

Basically what it boiled down to was whatever contaminate there was in the clutch/brake fluid, was still in the system somehow. Tech at the shop said that to fix this problem no questions asked, they want to replace everything in the system. Master cylinder, slave cylinder, the line between them, reservoir, brake booster, all the brake lines... Literally everything. After a case was started with Chrysler, they called John and he explained everything to them. In return, they referred John to the district manager for Chrysler for the entire SW United States. Now we're talking. Anyways, after a week and a half of negotiations between John, John's boss, and the district manager, he managed to get absolutely everything covered for me on a one time warranty extension. Don't ask me how. I'm not arguing.

Waiting on parts now!
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:01 AM   #19
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Update:

So apparently the Jeep gods have taken favor in me. I honestly can't say enough about my dealership and my service rep that works there. If anyone is in the Vegas area and looking for a solid rep to work with for pretty much anything at the dealership, John Wilson at Prestige Chrysler is your man to go to.

Basically what it boiled down to was whatever contaminate there was in the clutch/brake fluid, was still in the system somehow. Tech at the shop said that to fix this problem no questions asked, they want to replace everything in the system. Master cylinder, slave cylinder, the line between them, reservoir, brake booster, all the brake lines... Literally everything. After a case was started with Chrysler, they called John and he explained everything to them. In return, they referred John to the district manager for Chrysler for the entire SW United States. Now we're talking. Anyways, after a week and a half of negotiations between John, John's boss, and the district manager, he managed to get absolutely everything covered for me on a one time warranty extension. Don't ask me how. I'm not arguing.

Waiting on parts now!
outstanding

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