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Old 08-30-2011, 10:57 PM   #31
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Just setup and tuned my cb setup. It's basically all junk i found at garage sales except for my RS SWR meter.

Metered at 1.2:1 on ch 20 It gets worse(1.6ish:1) on the 30-40 channels but if i stay under 25 I can get really clear transmit at 3 miles in town. Thats with a 36" 5/8wave antenna mounted in my stock 3rd brake light. Rcv is about the same. I did have to trim my antenna a bit to get it right. 1.1:1 is hard to get without perfect conditions from what i've seen.

The metering is more important than the hardware. You can get better transmitters and antenna setups but for trailing, simple is usually best.

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Old 08-30-2011, 11:30 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 95YamJam View Post
Just setup and tuned my cb setup. It's basically all junk i found at garage sales except for my RS SWR meter.

Metered at 1.2:1 on ch 20 It gets worse(1.6ish:1) on the 30-40 channels but if i stay under 25 I can get really clear transmit at 3 miles in town. Thats with a 36" 5/8wave antenna mounted in my stock 3rd brake light. Rcv is about the same. I did have to trim my antenna a bit to get it right. 1.1:1 is hard to get without perfect conditions from what i've seen.

The metering is more important than the hardware. You can get better transmitters and antenna setups but for trailing, simple is usually best.
A 1/4 wave at cb frequencies is 102 inches of whip antenna. 5/8 wave would be longer and not practical for mobile use. A 36 inch whip antenna is an antenna that would require a loading coil at the base of the antenna.

Your SWR looks OK to me. It would be a bit flatter if your antenna was 102" 1/4 wave whip but that looks pretty good.

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Old 08-31-2011, 06:50 AM   #33
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I agree better/longer antenna would be ideal but for me i did not want a huge antenna. I am sacrificing for sure but I am happy with the result from about $25 in junk.

I decided that if when i wheel with people thay have to stay under ch 25. LOL!

Basically my point was to make sure your meter your setup no matter what. I was burying over 2.5.1:1 when I first hooked it all up. I would have wrecked the transmitter very quickly.

Just for people info this is what i am using to meter.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2036239



Very easy to use. Mine i got at a garage sale for $10. There are better more expensive units out there as well.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:02 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Swr's?

Standing Wave Ratio

Basically it measures what the radio is sending out to the antenna vs. what the antenna is sending out thru the air. Ideally 1:1, realistically under 2:1 is acceptable. Lower is better. Too high and you can burn up the finals in the radio.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:07 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by daggo66 View Post
Short Wave Radio
I think that's signal to wave ratios, just saying...
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:46 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by tcass View Post
I used these guys long ago. Jeep & Off-Road CB Radio Kits
Real helpful and even looked at my order and knew i forgot a stud and threw it in. I had mine mouted on the windshield in my 2007 using the small Uniden or was it Midland or Cobra. All pretty much the same. Project JK kind of outlined it for me and was easy to follow in the install. Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Affordable Jeep JK Wrangler CB Radio SolutionMidland Model-1001Z

probably don't need it anymore, but thought it might help.

cass
I used the same website link mentioned about rightchannel. Have the uniden one setup on my CJ. Better than what I need it for and it came with everything. Customer Service was great
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:59 PM   #37
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Regardless of brand, IMHO the most important thing is to check it out before you hit the trail. Hop on the freeway, turn to channel 19 and make sure you can hear truckers clearly. Then transmit and see that they can hear you clearly. It seems as if about half of the people that get CB's don't check them out ahead of time (mounts, grounds, planes), and that makes a larger group wheeling - well painful.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:14 PM   #38
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Ngp

Just want to toss it in, since new guys may be reading all this. Whatever you do, make sure you get a No Ground Plane (NGP) antenna if you want to have freedom in where you mount your antenna. Otherwise, you will have to mount it on a surface that provides enough metal to properly bounce the antenna signal. With an NGP antenna, you don't have to worry about having a reflective medium to bounce the signal off of. Read up on NGP if you don't know what I mean.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:54 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by SeayJ7 View Post
I used the same website link mentioned about rightchannel. Have the uniden one setup on my CJ. Better than what I need it for and it came with everything. Customer Service was great
i have to get another one and set it up in new Rubi. I'll probably use rightchannel again. Real good folks and customer service. While i know i can go to Walmart and pick one up cheap......i like the folks there and they are quick to get back if you have a question.

cass
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:12 PM   #40
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In post #20 I defined SWR. That definition you can take to the bank.

The reason that high SWR is bad is that it means that the antenna feed point (the usual place that this occurs) if reflecting part of the transmitted signal back at the transmitter final amplifier. When that happens, heat builds in the amplifier. When the heat becomes too great the final amplifier transistor becomes a conductor rather than a transistor and the transmitter stops functioning. The only way to correct the problem is to replace the final amplifier transistor(s). In most cases that is more expensive than buying a new transmitter so you toss the old one and get a new one. A transmitter will generally still function even with an SWR of 3:1 except that your transmitted signal will be small and you will have more difficulty communicating. Most modern transmitters have built in protection circuits that will indicate on the display that there is a high SWR and automatically turn the transmitter power down so as not to destroy the output amplifier. You could say that they are mostly fool proof these days. You will still need to correct the high SWR though before it will work right. Remember that if it has high SWR in transmit it will also be ineffective for receive as well because the signal coming from the antenna going to the receiver will be degraded for the same reason as the transmitted signal is degraded.
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:26 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by XJ Knight View Post
I used this one for a few years and loved it.. Great radio for offorading.. Both in it's mobile form and hooked up form.. Awesome if your a trail head.. Lets you stay in comunication with everyone even when your out of the Jeep. Happy to say now that I haven't been offroading in some time now and won't be again until this upcomming winter I sent my midland 75-822 to someone who will be able to use it and apreciate that she has a way to comunicate with the other vehlicles in her group..

In short.. Awesome radio that I would recomend to anyone..
X2

You don't have to bother drilling and mounting a fixed vehicle unit and separate mic and have it dangling down or banging your legs or passengers. Lockable in console or remove from vehicle. Works great at trailheads and talking to vehicles when you are outside your vehicle winching etc.
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:26 PM   #42
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In post #20 I defined SWR. That definition you can take to the bank.
Yea, OM, you're definition is 100% accurate but I'm not sure that we're all understanding all the details.

SWR means Standing Wave Ratio and is an abbreviation for VSWR (voltage standing wave ratio) but that really doesn't tell us much.

An SWR of 2:1 or less is OK for most modern transmitters. Adjust your antenna so you have an SWR of 1.5:1 or lower on a middle channel. Check Channels 1 and 40 to see if they're 2:1 or less. Tweak the adjustment to get the whole band within range, then lock things down and go wheelin'

There is a LOT of antenna BS and mis-information out there. Even many ham operators are confused about antenna and transmission line theory and operation. Fortunately, most CB systems will work just fine if installed carefully and adjusted for acceptably low SWR.

73 all!

- Keith -
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:59 PM   #43
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Yea, OM, you're definition is 100% accurate but I'm not sure that we're all understanding all the details.

SWR means Standing Wave Ratio and is an abbreviation for VSWR (voltage standing wave ratio) but that really doesn't tell us much.

An SWR of 2:1 or less is OK for most modern transmitters. Adjust your antenna so you have an SWR of 1.5:1 or lower on a middle channel. Check Channels 1 and 40 to see if they're 2:1 or less. Tweak the adjustment to get the whole band within range, then lock things down and go wheelin'

There is a LOT of antenna BS and mis-information out there. Even many ham operators are confused about antenna and transmission line theory and operation. Fortunately, most CB systems will work just fine if installed carefully and adjusted for acceptably low SWR.

73 all!

- Keith -
Totally agree with everything above. Even 3:1 is acceptable but I wouldn't exceed that for long periods of time. I'd have to look up the actual loss in terms of transmitted power in dB BUT I'm sure it is not too significant and won't result in damage to the output stage of the transmitter.
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:45 AM   #44
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I'd have to look up the actual loss in terms of transmitted power in dB BUT I'm sure it is not too significant and won't result in damage to the output stage of the transmitter.
Yea, I too would have to look up the actual % loss of say 2:1 SWR. I recall the percentage of loss is higher than you'd expect but that the real-world effect of that loss is negligible. For instance losing 50% of your transmit power will result in a signal reduction of 3 dB which is hardly noticeable in real life.

The CB tuners who crank up the output of a CB from 4 watts to 5.1 are yielding NO noticeable increase in transmit range but I should probably keep that a secret, ea?

- Keith -
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:06 AM   #45
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If I remember correctly, 3 db and it being on a logrithmic scale is equal to a 50% reduction. That doesn't seem like a lot, but say you can only transmit a mile or a half mile with a cheap system, then you will end up with half. You can take a transmitter and receiver and they are always only as good as your antenna. I appreciate the top load antenna's and make sure that you are using an antenna that does not require a ground plane. This was well posted above. I did a mod in my 2010 JK and mounted a full size Model 29 on the dash. Really nice setup and some after market parts made it a clean setup. I have talked with a 4' firestick as far as 10 miles. The one I selected was the 50 anniversary Cobra. Sweet display and had the weather bands and will scan and has the built in SWR meter, although pricey. I found a great setup at Cooltech for the antenna setup and there is a great post on the forum for the install on 2010 and earlier. Here's the link to Cooltech and I'm only providing this as a source. I did add a spring mount and quick disconnect. Make sure on the quick disconnect to use electrical grease. Works great for car washes etc.

I wonder if any one has installed a full size CB in the new JK and a good location?

Cool Tech LLC. JK Ultamount CB Antenna System

Oh...a dipole antenna tuned for the mid frequency would be the best setup and Keith is correct on the power. I have got a 1/2 watt transmitter to transmit clearly at one mile with a dipole antenna setup. The most important thing is alway the antenna, don't skimp here.
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:40 AM   #46
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I wonder if any one has installed a full size CB in the new JK and a good location?

Oh...a dipole antenna tuned for the mid frequency would be the best setup and Keith is correct on the power. I have got a 1/2 watt transmitter to transmit clearly at one mile with a dipole antenna setup. The most important thing is alway the antenna, don't skimp here.
You read like a ham.

That would be a complement and if you were a ham operator, you would understand.

I have a full length, 102", quarter wave whip. I call it a big a$$ antenna because...well...it's big. Originally it was on a ball and spring mount just behind the fender flair on the passenger side in the rear quarter panel. Then I got a Congo Cage rack system. So I converted the plastic piece that holds the ball to the side of the jeep to a feed through with just a small amount of adjustment and mounted the spring from the original ball and spring to the rack. Works great. But looks bad a$$. I may eventually go with a Wilson flex stick, slightly better than a firestick. The firestick ain't no slouch either. The Wilson with a spring mount will probably fare better in the bush so to speak, you know.....the alter ego living place of the jeep.

BTW, all of my ham friends poke fun with me for having it on my jeep but, they are the ones who do don't get the jeep thing. It is required by jeep clubs to participate in outings. It was the first antenna on the jeep....before my ham antenna went on there. I wanted to get her out on the trail ASAP and could wait to get the other system in.

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