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Old 02-10-2012, 03:58 PM   #1
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Componet Tweeter size,,Stock?

Looking into new fronts for the 2012, and kinda would like to knkow is there a specific size tweeter I need to get that will fit the stock tweeter mount on the dash?

Is it a 1" doom ring ,, or 25mm? I have seen both specs, and just would like to know what to look at for a perfect fit!

Thanks

Currently looking into the Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Componets... at $138.

Thanks in advance!

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Old 02-11-2012, 01:36 AM   #2
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1" will fit. I have a JL 6.5" mid and 1" tweeters in the stock locations. No problems fitting (even though I didn't do the install).

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Old 02-11-2012, 12:54 PM   #3
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Thanks King!!
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Old 02-11-2012, 01:01 PM   #4
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1" will fit. I have a JL 6.5" mid and 1" tweeters in the stock locations. No problems fitting (even though I didn't do the install).
Is it noticeably better? Did you add an amp, or just replace the speakers?

I'd like to upgrade the speakers... seems like a reasonably priced mod, but I see a lot of chatter here that you need amps and subs etc., and I can't tell if that is just the true enthusiasts giving their opinion.

Any additional info would be great!
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Old 02-11-2012, 02:02 PM   #5
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Is it noticeably better? Did you add an amp, or just replace the speakers?

I'd like to upgrade the speakers... seems like a reasonably priced mod, but I see a lot of chatter here that you need amps and subs etc., and I can't tell if that is just the true enthusiasts giving their opinion.

Any additional info would be great!
Mine is definitely noticeably better, but I have a complete replacement system. I have high end JL mid and tweet in the front, Kenwood Coaxials in the sound bar. They're controlled by a JL 4 channel amp. I also have a Kicker 10" sub in the rear with a separate amp. Kenwood NAV radio.

You don't have to go for a complete system. ANYTHING aftermarket is going to be better than stock. Those stock tweeters are plastic and pretty crappy. They look like toy speakers.

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Communications and Electronics - Jeep Wrangler Forum

I'm sure there are plenty that you can get that you wouldn't need an amp for. Just keep in mind, like everything else, you get what you pay for. There are some small amps that aren't that expensive, will make it sound much better. Just don't go overboard like I did!
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:57 PM   #6
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Kenwood NAV radio.


I'm sure there are plenty that you can get that you wouldn't need an amp for. Just keep in mind, like everything else, you get what you pay for. There are some small amps that aren't that expensive, will make it sound much better. Just don't go overboard like I did!
Oh yeah... that's what I keep reading, that replacing the head unit really makes a difference. I've had amps and subs in other vehicles, and I am definitely with you on the "you get what you pay for" front... my real concern in the Jeep is Space... if I can just bug you with two questions:

1) where is your amp mounted
and
2) is your new subwoofer in the same space the old one was in?
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Old 02-11-2012, 05:12 PM   #7
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Good thread.... I am getting ready to do my system and come up with a good spot for the amp. Can hook an amp to my stock head unit?
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Old 02-11-2012, 11:58 PM   #8
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Oh yeah... that's what I keep reading, that replacing the head unit really makes a difference. I've had amps and subs in other vehicles, and I am definitely with you on the "you get what you pay for" front... my real concern in the Jeep is Space... if I can just bug you with two questions:

1) where is your amp mounted
and
2) is your new subwoofer in the same space the old one was in?
I have two amps, one under each front seat. Mine are around 5 years old, pulled my entire sound system out of my last vehicle. Mine are full sized and still fit fine under the seats. they make smaller ones that fit even better.

My sub is a 10" kicker in a pre-made box that is kept in the rear. Mine did not come with a stock sub. My last vehicle did have a factory sub and I had an aftermarket amp hooked up to it. So when got the Wrangler, I needed to add a sub and this was the least expensive option. I think it was like $120 for the sub + box. They put velcro on the box to keep it in place, but didn't use the best velcro. It came off when I needed to move the sub out of the way when I bought my tires and needed to take them home. Last time I went wheeling I heard a big thud. It had gotten disconnected and slid across the rear. I need to get some straps or something for it, or do a better velcro job.

Another option for the sub, what my stereo shop was trying to talk me into: I have the 2012 JKU which has a small compartment under the rear, but above the spare tools. Perfect for a big flashlight and some other stuff. (not sure all years/models have this box?). They wanted to cut the rear mat and build a custom box in there to hold to 8" subs. It would sound better, but was going to be closer to $300+. I'd consider it in the future, but at this time wanted something less expensive so I could pay for other mods. I may re-visit the two 8's in the future, but it very low on a long list...

I'm sure there are other boxes you could order for the rear, or any stereo shop can custom build one out of wood or plexi glass. It would be nice to have one mounted out of the way, off to the side in between the rear roll bar or something.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:10 AM   #9
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Good thread.... I am getting ready to do my system and come up with a good spot for the amp. Can hook an amp to my stock head unit?
Yes, you could hook an amp up to a factory radio, but then you have to get an interface box, don't recall the name right now.

I originally did this with my last vehicle, bought the entire sound system and intended to keep the factory Nav. If I remember right, it was like an extra $100 for the box to connect the factory radio to the amps.

However, in my case, it noticeably degraded the sound. I used to be more of an audiophile, use to put $3000+ systems in my vehicles. So I have more of a trained ear. This setup with the interface would just have a 'weird' sound sometime. I believe the term is called 'ghosting' where sometimes a sound would just be amplified strangely. So I ended up buying a new Kenwood Nav/radio roughly 3 weeks later because I couldn't stand the sound. As part of the deal for the radio, the shop let me return the interface for a full refund.

So if you are getting too crazy on the components, the factory radio with the interface might not sound as bad.

You would DEFINITELY get better sound out of an aftermarket unit though. Do keep in mind that with aftermarket, you would loose steering wheel controls and blue tooth if you have it. Again interfaces can be purchased to work with the steering wheel controls. Blue tooth can also be purchased, comes with some radios.
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Old 02-12-2012, 09:47 AM   #10
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^^^^
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Old 02-12-2012, 10:14 AM   #11
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I think what your talking about king is a audio interface line out.

Isnt this the device that keeps the stock headunit from dropping bass at higher levels? Somthing to do with a single can bus? I dunno its just what I was told when I let the shop know I was keeping my stock headunit. I want to keep it to maintain the stock look and keep theives from seeing a big flashy stereo to rip off!

The cost of this unit is $149 and $60 to install ontop of $150 componet install $125 amp kit and $125 amp install. About $600 in install fees, parts, taxes!!

Friggin crazzy!! And All I wanted to do was put in new better speakers! Ha.

I pretty sure I can get away without that audio interface for the headunit and still come out way ahead! Im getting good pricing on the speakers and amp online , but these install and extras,, amp kit , rca's, interface, is killing the deal!

So far I have some sweet Treo coax 6.5 for the rear, and either JL C2 componets or Alpine R , or Treo componets for front.

Then adding a MB Quart ref 4.8 ,80w x 4 amp ,, or rockford pbr 75w x4,, or JL xd 400 or xd 700/5 amp.

MB is $185, Rockford is $170, JL 400 is $298,,JL 700/5 is $398.

The 5 channel is just in case I add a sub in the future. Just get it installed and have it done once.

So far I added the polly fill to soundbar,, then went to install the Treos,, and damn things need an adaptor plate!! After I was told its good to go twice!!

About ready to say screw it,, and enjoy howard, playboy, dr laura, comedy, and local talk radio, Rush and Beck!
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:04 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvrevo View Post
I think what your talking about king is a audio interface line out.

Isnt this the device that keeps the stock headunit from dropping bass at higher levels? Somthing to do with a single can bus? I dunno its just what I was told when I let the shop know I was keeping my stock headunit. I want to keep it to maintain the stock look and keep theives from seeing a big flashy stereo to rip off!

The cost of this unit is $149 and $60 to install ontop of $150 componet install $125 amp kit and $125 amp install. About $600 in install fees, parts, taxes!!

Friggin crazzy!! And All I wanted to do was put in new better speakers! Ha.

I pretty sure I can get away without that audio interface for the headunit and still come out way ahead! Im getting good pricing on the speakers and amp online , but these install and extras,, amp kit , rca's, interface, is killing the deal!

So far I have some sweet Treo coax 6.5 for the rear, and either JL C2 componets or Alpine R , or Treo componets for front.

Then adding a MB Quart ref 4.8 ,80w x 4 amp ,, or rockford pbr 75w x4,, or JL xd 400 or xd 700/5 amp.

MB is $185, Rockford is $170, JL 400 is $298,,JL 700/5 is $398.

The 5 channel is just in case I add a sub in the future. Just get it installed and have it done once.

So far I added the polly fill to soundbar,, then went to install the Treos,, and damn things need an adaptor plate!! After I was told its good to go twice!!

About ready to say screw it,, and enjoy howard, playboy, dr laura, comedy, and local talk radio, Rush and Beck!
I looked up the interface that I used because it was bugging the hell out of me that I couldn't remember: It was a JL Cleansweep. After researching it (again 4-5 years ago) this was the best way to interface the factory unit with amps. Looks like there are less expensive options that you can do. Pretty sure an LOC (line output converter) would also work and might be less expensive. I'd research it though on car audio forums which is what I did.

As far as the amps, I do advise going with the 5 channel so you don't have to add an amp for the sub later. However, if go with the MB or Rockford amps, it might be the same price to add a separate amp for the sub later. But figure in installation costs, etc (unless you're doing it yourself) and it works out to about the same. I'm a big fan of JL, so recommend starting with the 5 channel.

Definitely poly fill. I didn't do it because I bought my wrangler and drove it straight to the stereo shop without going home first because they were pulling everything out from my last vehicle so didn't know to do it.

I'm also a long time Howard fan!
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:20 AM   #13
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Just ordered

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Currently looking into the Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" Componets... at $138.

Thanks in advance!
Just pulled the trigger on these speakers. I've already replaced the soundbar with Alpine sps-610's and polyfilled. Once I get the fronts and tweeters in, I'll be moving on to a new head unit and amp. Then a sub. Gosh, this is expensive.

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