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Crown Automotive Big Brake Kit RT31046

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255K views 1.3K replies 124 participants last post by  JCS2179  
#1 · (Edited)
I've been back and forth the past couple weeks in choosing my BBK setup. I was looking for something with a bigger upgraded caliper, and bigger rotors. I was planning to piece me a Mopar BBK, or get Teraflex or Black Magic, however I came across Crown Automotive last pm.

I confirmed with Quadratec that they use Ram calipers so I can upgrade my brake pads to preference. Their rotors are 13" so it might be slightly smaller than some competitors at 13.25. I'll measure once received.

68157611AA
Fits Jeep:
Jeep Wrangler (JK) (2007-2017) w/ RT31046 Brake Upgrade Kit.
Jeep Wrangler (JK) (2008-2017) export model.

Ram 1500 (DS) (2009-2017)
Ram 1500 (DR) (2006-2008) w/out SRT package.

Dodge Durango (HB) (2007-2009)
Dodge Dakota (ND) (2005-2011)
Dodge Raider (NM) (2006-2010)

Chrysler Aspen (HG) (2007-2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HH9ftiTMB6Q

Last, I was basically piecing out kits. 100 each for BBK bracket (x2), Calipers (125x2). That's over 450 already not including brake pads and rotors. I got this kit for $435.50. No Brainer.

I will also order the rear teraflex kit at a later date as well as the Mopar Master Cylinder and Booster.

I'll give you my biased thoughts once received/installed.
 

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#3 ·
Yup, apparently Ram 1500 calipers. Once you get your mc and boost you're going to wonder why you waited so long. It was the single best upgrade I did as far as safety is concerned. From what I understand the quality of Chinese rotors varies, and not all rotors come from China. Blaine said he sells both Chinese and I think Taiwan or S Korea ? I told him I didn't want Chinese. He said not all Chinese rotors are the same. Evidently there are a few different factories. The point is that he said he has the best Chinese rotors and he inspects each one ( I believe him ) so it didn't matter what I got. As luck would have it they weren't from China.

I think Dynatrac's rear rotors are 14" or slightly larger. They're massive but expensive. Wonder what size Tera us using ? There is a huge difference between 13" and 14"
 
#5 ·
Trust me you want Mopar's MC/Boost. You don't need the rear rotor kit ( it would give you more balanced braking ) but you'll be missing the real advantage of your BBK if you don't add the MC/boost. If money is an issue ( it's an issue with everyone : ) plan on getting it as soon as possible. I waited two or three years only because Mopars kit wasn't available ( that I knew of ) when I finally got the MC/boost installed there was a huge improvement in modulation/pedal pressure/braking power. It's a no brainer trust me. Just make sure you bleed the brakes well. Someone can install the whole nine yards and still have sub par braking. A good bleed job with all fresh Dot 3 and you'll be a happy camper :)

Dynatracs rear kit is only about $100 more than TF. It's worth spending the extra money imo.
 
#7 ·
@Old 0311 I just ordered the Mopar upgraded master cylinder/brake booster from Northridge4x4. It came out to $155 shipped using my coupon.

I just received word from FedEx that the BBK is going to be received by this Thursday so i'm planning a weekend install.
 
#8 ·
That's a really great price. You'll see how much bigger the MC/boost is compared to stock. It's a tight fit with both but not too bad. Just take your time. You have a 6 speed right ? You're going to need one of these too....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11098/overview/

It's a Wilwood MC remote reservoir kit. It's not hard to figure out how to hook it up. I could take a few pics of mine if needed. You're going to have some awesome brakes soon :thumb:
 
#9 ·
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#12 ·
The wilwood does not go to the MC. It's for your clutch. There's a line ( tube ) coming off your stock MC reservoir ( lower right ) that goes to your clutch slave cylinder. The new MC doesn't have a port to hook the clutch line in. That's why you need the wilwood.

You need to couple the end of the line that went into your old MC to one end of the tube on the wilwood. I bought a brass fitting at Home Depot. You'll need two small clamps. It's really easy once you have everything there. Then figure out how to secure the reservoir. I used two sheet metal screws. Then fill it with Dot 3.

Make sure everything is done correctly before filling the reservoir. If you get in a jam ( I doubt it ) you could always post. I'll try to help. One thing for sure....you're going to have some awesome brakes.....better be looking in the mirror if you have to stop suddenly....because someone could rear end you....:happyyes:
 
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#42 ·
The wilwood does not go to the MC. It's for your clutch. There's a line ( tube ) coming off your stock MC reservoir ( lower right ) that goes to your clutch slave cylinder. The new MC doesn't have a port to hook the clutch line in. That's why you need the wilwood.

You need to couple the end of the line that went into your old MC to one end of the tube on the wilwood. I bought a brass fitting at Home Depot. You'll need two small clamps. It's really easy once you have everything there. Then figure out how to secure the reservoir. I used two sheet metal screws. Then fill it with Dot 3.

Make sure everything is done correctly before filling the reservoir. If you get in a jam ( I doubt it ) you could always post. I'll try to help. One thing for sure....you're going to have some awesome brakes.....better be looking in the mirror if you have to stop suddenly....because someone could rear end you....:happyyes:
I modded the new BBK reservoir with a threaded *PE nipple and some new generation 3m PE compatible epoxy adhesive. I've been running my setup for almost 2 years now without any issue.

*PE = Polyethylene or PP = Polypropylene or PFE = PolyFluoroethylene... whichever it was made of I used the same material for the threaded barb... just don't use a nylon barb, they won't work.
 
#14 ·
You're welcome. One last thought. You're probably going to have a lot of nose dive when braking hard.....especially if you don't have any geo correction brackets and have stock springs/shocks. Even with them your front end will want to dive somewhat. Of course a lot depends on springs/lift/shocks etc .....

Getting the rear rotor kit will effectively eliminate nose dive ( or greatly reduce it if your suspension is mostly stock ) Braking is a lot more controlled with my Dynatrac rear kit. Stopping is a lot flatter....no nose dive even under extreme braking. My Geo brackets really help with that too.
 
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#17 ·
@DRBReno i'll give you my thoughts once installed. BTW, its being shipped directly fron Crown at Sparks, NV

Calipers
Teraflex states 56mm (but I read that they use the same ram 1500 caliper)
Crown and Mopar use the same (ram 1500) so it should be 54mm

Rotors
Teraflex states 13.25
Mopar states 13 but actually 13.25
Crown states 13 ... i'll confirm actual size tonight if I get it.

All are very close to each other in terms of #'s except for price.
 
#19 ·
@Feereless hey bud. The mopar kit is very similar since its using the same calipers for the ram. The mopar does come with the upgraded brake booster/upgraded master cylinder. it is on national backorder (mopar).

Price wise ... the Crown is 435.50 from QT using price match, and the brake booster/master cylinder is 230 from N4x4. I also had to factor in the reservoir from wildwood since I have a manual transmission ($29). That leaves me at 694.50. It's actually 619.50 since I have a 75 gift card from n4x4. Last, I forgot to tell my rep about the WF discount so I could've gotten the brake booster/MC a bit cheaper from N4x4.

Mopars price varies from 800-899 but i'm sure you could use the dealer's accessory discount, however it is on national backorder when I called earlier this week.
 
#727 ·
Mine is a 2013 auto and I know from your conversation above that I don't need the wildwood reservoir, I am thinking about the below kit...

Dodge ram 1500 caliper and bracket (can someone please guide me to the exact year... you can get reman. loaded pair with bracket for real cheap)
Buy the teraflex big brake kit without the calipers just the rotors and bracket and ditch the bracket and use the ram caliper bracket)
Mopar Master Cylinder
Mopar Brake booster( my question is, for my 2013 auto model do I need the booster)

Please advise...

Sandan
 
#20 ·
@Feereless yes I tried to piece out a mopar JK kit. So far Crown Auto is the most affordable.

Using Rock Auto, The caliper bracket (68034720AA) is 144.79. Your going to need 2.
that's 289.58. The calipers from rock auto were about 115 (without core)... your also going to need 2.

That's about 520. Your still going to need rotors and pads.

Here's the part list if you want to piece out a mopar bbk.
 

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#27 ·
@Feereless yes I tried to piece out a mopar JK kit. So far Crown Auto is the most affordable.

Using Rock Auto, The caliper bracket (68034720AA) is 144.79. Your going to need 2.
that's 289.58. The calipers from rock auto were about 115 (without core)... your also going to need 2.

That's about 520. Your still going to need rotors and pads.

Here's the part list if you want to piece out a mopar bbk.
Nice!!! That sounds like another good path to get the Mopar BBK at a similar price. When I originally researched the Mopar BBK, I determined the front rotors were made by Crown. So essentially, it looks like you were able to piece together the Mopar BBK minus a few of the little pieces that are included.

I wonder what's going on with the Mopar BBK? I put mine on a couple years ago and had no problem ordering it then.
 
#23 ·
I received the Mopar Brake Booster and Master Cylinder today. While waiting for the BBK to arrive I just received a notice stating “customer unavailable”. I’ve been at home for a while and I received the other parts from the SAME shipping company. Another reason why Quadratec is my secondary choice is because they mostly ship Fedex. I just don’t trust Fedex shipping to my location because this happens 90% of the time. Looks like I’ll post pictures tomorrow since I arranged a pickup at the fedex location.
 
#24 ·
Should I paint the calipers once received? Right now I think it will defeat the purpose since you will barely see it due to the wheels design and rock rings.




Also, here’s the MC and BB. There’s many comparison shots in other threads but I still can’t wait to confirm the actual size of Crowns rotors.





 
#28 ·
Should I paint the calipers once received? Right now I think it will defeat the purpose since you will barely see it due to the wheels design and rock rings.
I painted mine with VHT Silver color rattle cans which is suppose to be good, and it has since flaked off. So I guess my advise would be, that if you do paint them, make sure you rough up the surface of the calipers since that is something I didn't do and maybe you will have better luck.
 
#25 ·
You want to bench bleed the master before putting it in. The brake lines won't match up now ( at least one won't ) so you'll have to carefully bend them.

The lines must go in straight or the MC threads or ends will get wrecked. Don't cross thread, start them with your fingers (!) Use a real line wrench. If you don't have one buy it.

You're going to have to tighten the line nuts tighter than you think because apparently the flared ends aren't an exact match to the new MC. They were meant to match the original MC.

If you have a leak tighten till it stops. That's where the line wrench really comes in. You'll round the fittings if you use an open end wrench. Then you'll have to go to a dealership and buy new lines......and they'll have to order them. Don't ask me how I know :)
 
#30 ·
@Old 0311 do you know what size line wrench I need? I don’t have one so I’ll be purchasing during my lunch break today.
I picked one up from Autozone. It was a Duralast. I just checked it was a combo 10mm + 12mm line wrench. I don't remember which side I used for the MC but it worked for the MC and the brake line caliper bolts as well.