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Old 03-06-2012, 04:33 PM   #1
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difference

hey al - everyone talks about the difference in a sport and a rubicon could someone please clear this all up for me thanks

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Old 03-06-2012, 04:34 PM   #2
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My name's not Al.

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Old 03-06-2012, 04:38 PM   #3
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The tires that come with it.
The springs are a little bigger and the shocks are a little stronger
Electronic sway bar disconnecter
Locking gears and a higher gear ratio.
Thats what I know from reading
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:39 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
My name's not Al.
go here: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/201...ad-101089.html

it's a long read, but there's all the information you'll need and that should clear somethings up.

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Old 03-06-2012, 04:40 PM   #5
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The Rubicon features equipment that off-road enthusiasts usually add anyway, including heavy duty axles, front and rear electronic locking differentials, 32-inch BF Goodrich mud tires, sway bar disconnect system, rock rails and a heavy-duty transfer case with 4:1 low-gear ratio.
2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 2dr 4x4 Overview
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:06 PM   #6
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My name's not Al.
I don't care who you are. That's funny right there.
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbwwolf View Post
My name's not Al.

Hmm, mine is. But it looks like you guys have already answered his question.
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:11 PM   #8
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You guys overlooked something...

























... the stiickers!
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:15 PM   #9
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You guys overlooked something...

























... the stiickers!




NICE
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:16 PM   #10
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OMG I thought he was going to say its in the Owners Manual!!!!




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Old 03-06-2012, 06:17 PM   #11
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Yeah but they look GOOD!
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:22 PM   #12
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Don't forget the hefty sticker $$$$$$ Difference
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:30 PM   #13
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:56 PM   #14
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Talking My take on Sport VS Rubicon

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goughy View Post
I checked out the link for the 2DR above. It is really misleading. There are things that are on the list that are not "Standard" for the models. For example the Sport S does not always have the Power Convince Group. And the Rubicon does not always have the Deep tint windows. You have to be careful because it may say tinted windows on the window sticker but that isn't really "deep tint", or what most people would call tint. It is an option though.

There is a pamplet in the brochure at the dealerships that is call "Buyer's Guide" that shows all the differences between stuff.

Here is what I see it boils down to for the 2door at least for me. There might be things that I haven't mentioned.
Sport-
*pizza cutter tires
*you cannot get power windows
*I don't think you can get LSD -Limited slip differential they call it Trac-Lok
*Seriously limits what you can do as far as upgrades


Then you can upgrade to the Sport S which give you bigger 32 inch tires and a leather wrapped stearing wheel and I'm pretty sure AC.
It also allows you to get other upgrades like
*LSD
*Power windows and mirrors

Rubicon adds:
+Rock Rails-they are like under the door where a step would be.
+Beefier Suspension and Coils.
+The front axle is a bit tougher
+More agressive 32" tires than the sport S
+Electronic Lockers
+Sway bar disconnect ("disco") with the push of a button. A sport you have to get under and use a wrench if you want to get better off road flex. Really only needed on pretty darn hard core stuff. It will make off-roading less jarring having more flex in your suspension.
+Infinity sound system with subwoofer to take up your storage space.
+Automatic Headlights
+The hood sticker

It also gives you the option for
*Power Windows and Mirrors - The handle for the window is right where my knee rest so this is an option that I must have.
*Tinted windows
*Heated Seats - You can do this after market for about the same price.
*Leather Seats
*Matching fenders and hardtop.
*Automatic Temp Controls - I guess some people really want this
*The super fancy touch screen radio.

The Rubicons will retain most of there extra-cost during resale. Though if you really don't want the upgrades then it might not be worth it. You could maybe cherry pick better stuff on there and cheaper maybe though I don't think you would get it back in resale as well. If you do want lockers then they will be under warranty. One thing about getting a Rubicon is that your going to be able to sell parts off if it better if you want to upgrade later (like wheels, suspension, rock rails).

If you don't know what an open differential means then I would watch the movie below for sure.



The open differential that the movie shows is why all wranglers have BLD.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPDON View Post
Your Sahara DOES have the BLD system; which , when one wheel is spinning, will apply brake to the wheel that is spinning and force power to the one with traction. Much better than plain open diff's. Works excellent in MOST situations and will get you through a lot of rough stuff....
The thing that I find the most compelling reason for the Rubicon personally is for the Lockers. They lock the wheels together if you push a button while in 4-Low under 25 mph. When it is not in use you get the BLD system. Having lockers means you cannot have a physical LSD also.

I'm no expert but my take on it is if your main motivation is a good snow car driving a Sport S/Sahara with a LSD upgrade would probably suit your needs better then just the standard equipped BLD system. And a grand caravan would probably be even better then that. The BLD is basically a electronic LSD-limited slip differential. The reason a LSD upgrade would be better on the road is that it will work in 2wd/4high/4low vs Locker just working in 4-Low. It will also work quicker then the electronic BLD system. The Trac-Lok LSD upgrade jeep offers uses clutch pads that will wear out eventually depending on use. After 50,000 miles they will be shot and have to be replaced. They transfer something like a quarter of power to the wheel not spinning out vs lockers that give 100%. A better aftermarket LSD solution would be the Eaton Truetrac that uses gears and doesn't wear out over time.

Hope that helps. If I have anything wrong please correct me.
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:01 PM   #15
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If you haven't already I would look into the Tread Lightly Discount that offers 1% below dealer invoice. You'll find out plenty about it if you do a search of this forum.
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Old 03-07-2012, 01:44 AM   #16
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Main thing would be be in the axles and the Transfer case.

Sport:
D30 front (3.21 or 3.73) Open 27 Spline inner shafts
D44 rear (3.21 or 3.73) Open 30 Spline shafts
241 transfer case with a 2.41:1 ratio (I may be wrong on the ratio)

Rubicon:
D44 front (4.10) E Locker 32 spline inner shafts
D44 rear (4.10) E Locker 32 spline shafts
241OR transfer case with a 4:1 ratio

If you plan to build it big go with a sport because you will lose half the money you spent on the sticker price of a Rubi when you replace all those except for the Tcase with better aftermarket parts anyway.

If you're sticking with 33"-35" tires (You wont more than likely) then buy the rubicon and still spend a pretty good bit when shit starts breaking (lockers go bad, tubes are still the same strength on the axles so they still need sleeved/trussed and gusseted and stock shafts still break with decent wheeling).
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:48 AM   #17
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Rubi comments

Here are the only line items that are specific to the Rubicon and cannot be added as an option on any other build:

- Tru-lok front and rear locking differentials
- Rock-Trac heavy-duty transfer case
- Electronic sway bar disconnect
- Dana 44 front axle
- 4.1 gearing
- Mud tires

The question of Rubicon or not is more about whether or not a stock build is going to meet your needs. *If you plan to run stock forever, or for a good long time, then a Rubi probably makes sense for mild to moderate part time wheeling. *

If you plan to put 35 inch tires*(or bigger) on it and/or plan to do some hard core wheeling then you are probably better off buying a lesser model and modding it to meet your needs. *For instance, here are a few things to think about for each Rubi only line item:

- Lockers. *The ones it comes with are fine. But those ARB Air Lockers are awfully nice, as are the Eaton E-Lockers. *Probably going to outperform and outlast the stock Rubi lockers.

- Heavy-duty transfer case. *About the only thing that's a real plus here, but even this is nominal. *Yes, it can outdo the normal transfer case, but the normal one is just fine for 99% of stuff most folks will do. *If you find it's not, you can upgrade or even go for something really sweet like a high end custom built dual transfer case or system with an adapter. *

- Electronic sway bar disconnect. *I say 'so what?' A manual disconnect is likely to be stronger and and hold up better. *Adding a manual quick disconnect is going to make it a quick two minute job*(or less) that you can do as your inspecting the vehicle at the trailhead before you roll out. *Lots of lift kits include quick disconnects anyway. *

- Dana 44 front axle. *Sounds nice, but this one is the most misleading of all. *There are a LOT of reports coming in from all over that Rubi's with 35's are coming back from the field with bent axles. *Again, bigger tires are going to require upgrades anyway. *You can go with a ProRock or RockJock replacement, or add a Super 44 reinforcement kit of some sort*(lots to choose from). *

- 4.1 gearing. *First off, with the 2012 you are going to be fine up to 35's with a 3.73 gearing (although 4.56 is actually the real sweet spot for a heavy load with 35's). *If you are going to jump up in tire size anyway, 4.1 may not be suitable*(ok, but maybe not perfect). *If you are going to go with anything bigger than 35's you'll probably want to bump up to 4.56 or even 4.88*(or higher) gearing anyway. *

- Mud tires. *Please... *32 inch mud tires? *Again, if you plan to run stock for a while, no problem. *Many folks are going to want to get into a set of 33's or 35's anyway. *Why buy a Rubi for tires? *'nough said. *

A Rubi is gonna run another 5 to 10 grand over a lower end model. *Personally I went with a nice Sport S package and am modding the hell out of mine in a way that makes a Rubi look like a child's toy. *

Bradleyb.net » My Jeep Plans and Progress Tracking

It's all a question of personal preference, but that's my two cents. *
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Old 03-24-2012, 04:32 AM   #18
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradleyb View Post
Here are the only line items that are specific to the Rubicon and cannot be added as an option on any other build:

- Tru-lok front and rear locking differentials
- Rock-Trac heavy-duty transfer case
- Electronic sway bar disconnect
- Dana 44 front axle
- 4.1 gearing
- Mud tires

I agree with your overall post but the last 2 were not true. Just wanted to clear that up. Mountains/arctics and other special editions come with the KM tires also. A lot of the early 07's had 4.10 gears and I'm pretty sure you can get them if you pay the extra cost. Either way, they were/are offered in other than Rubi's.


Everything else in the post was spot on though
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:55 PM   #20
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I know many taut that the Rubi is better resale but that isn't true. The Sport actually has the highest residual value of all models. The advantage to the Sport is the cost, leaving you with the ability to spend more in mods. The biggest advantage of the Rubicon is the D44 front axle, electronic sway bar disconnect, Lockers, 4.10 gears and a 4:1 transfer case.

Many buy a Rubicon that never need it's upgrades just because they think it's the best. The best really depends on your needs. The Rubicon's biggest advantage stock is in rock crawling. But if you live in the north east for example, a Sport S with LSD may be a better choice for snow conditions.

Many list other advantages but really, most mods still upgrade coils (which rubis don't necessarily have better), shocks, and even wheels/tire.

Here is a Residue values (36 month leases) for each model as post by Pat

2 sport 59
2 saha 58
2 rubi 55

4 sport 57
4 saha 54
4 rubi 54
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:01 AM   #21
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Makes sense, I view sport as stripped, build to suit
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:54 AM   #22
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My understanding is that Mountain, Arctic, and others are Modified Rubi builds. I could be wrong, but that's part of what I based my comments on.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Militaryman4455 View Post
I agree with your overall post but the last 2 were not true. Just wanted to clear that up. Mountains/arctics and other special editions come with the KM tires also. A lot of the early 07's had 4.10 gears and I'm pretty sure you can get them if you pay the extra cost. Either way, they were/are offered in other than Rubi's.


Everything else in the post was spot on though
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:30 PM   #23
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We have been looking to buy for a couple years and will finally do so in the next couple of months. When I build the jeep on jeep.com I only see a 3K difference when I add all the options that we want. And the body colored tops and fenders are not an option as well as 4.10's and climate control. Those would be additional but just saying there not options. To me if matching body colored tops and fenders, factory nav, factory leather, etc are not important then the sport is the way to go.

The sport is a great option for a high % of jeep buyers but when people get on here and say why did you pay $40k when I only paid $25k for my sport it is more then a little misleading.

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