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Old 10-02-2012, 09:31 AM   #1
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Drive Shaft Failure question

I've seen a lot of talk about DS failure over 3"+ lift. I did use search but either I'm a complete doofus or everyone on here is a rock crawler lol. Is this Issue only for people who do a lot of articulation, as in rock climbing? I only ask because I live in Florida and only see mild flexing at best. It would mostly be trails, mud crawling and daily road driving. Is DS failure something to worry about for someone like me?

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Old 10-02-2012, 09:36 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbullitt
I've seen a lot of talk about DS failure over 3"+ lift. I did use search but either I'm a complete doofus or everyone on here is a rock crawler lol. Is this Issue only for people who do a lot of articulation, as in rock climbing? I only ask because I live in Florida and only see mild flexing at best. It would mostly be trails, mud crawling and daily road driving. Is DS failure something to worry about for someone like me?
Unfortunately there is no such thing as mud crawling. The key to mudding, as with sand and deep snow, is momentum and wheel spin~not going slow. That being said, hitting bumps at speed in those mud pits can really get your suspension flexing. It doesn't happen right away and it might not happen at all for you. Either way as long as the cv joint (the one by the transfer case) doesn't rip then you're fine. You are correct in saying that rock crawling can exacerbate the problem but it can still happen

Bottom line is I would be ready to replace it but I wouldn't replace it right away

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Old 10-02-2012, 09:43 AM   #3
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jkjeeper is spot on. im in tampa and do a fair amount of trail riding.. though i haven't been in over a month ... you should expect to replace it. i have a 4" BDS short arm lift, i don't disconnect (which sucks sometimes) to try to keep things in place down there, and i've still worn my DS out. it's getting a little noisy, torn the DS boot, so i guess it's only a matter of time for me. i have around 24K on my rig right now.

maybe that's a good litmus test, mileage and amount of wheeling. i know pluke had DS issues also, but he got around 20K out of his stock DS if i'm not mistaken.

good luck. best be prepared though!
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:46 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbullitt View Post
I've seen a lot of talk about DS failure over 3"+ lift. I did use search but either I'm a complete doofus or everyone on here is a rock crawler lol. Is this Issue only for people who do a lot of articulation, as in rock climbing? I only ask because I live in Florida and only see mild flexing at best. It would mostly be trails, mud crawling and daily road driving. Is DS failure something to worry about for someone like me?
Replacing your DS is a headache-avoidance policy. The joints used in the stock drive shafts do not like to operate at any "extreme" angle which higher lifts provide, so DS failure should always be a concern when adding a higher lift...it will just take that much longer if you do not articulate the shaft too much. 2012s and newer JKs are more prone to this failure as the driveline angle has changed a bit for the worse, so even a lesser lift causes stress on the newer models.

If you decide not to change your driveshaft(s), don't worry too much...you have two, so if one fails you can always hobble home on the other...
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:06 AM   #5
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That answers it perfectly. I'm only considering a 2.5" Though I know even at that people have see DS Failure. at least with the cheaper kit I'll have Money left over for the DS replacement. I was Probably going to go to Advanced Driveline here in Orlando for a custom replacement If when I needed it unless anyone can point me in a better direction.


That being said, The only thing I was curious about is the break line. I've see a few mention it but haven't seen it be a main topic. Who did you all use for your break line extensions?
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:11 AM   #6
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My RK kit came with stainless steel break lines for both front and rear, but there are quite a few available options out there
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:21 AM   #7
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My RK kit came with stainless steel break lines for both front and rear, but there are quite a few available options out there
Which kit did you get? I was going to go with RK as well but the one I chose looks like it only comes with the Shocks and Springs.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:29 AM   #8
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These guys are all spot on...

Anytime you have more than about 3" of net lift (actual lift) where some kits tell you they will sell you a 2.5" coil lift but you actually get 3+" out of them, you start asking for problems.

If you stay below 3" of lift chances are you may never need drive shafts. There are cases where people have installed 2.5" coil lifts with drive shaft failures. While it's uncommon, it happens.

Here's the variables.

Because most of us use our jeeps as DD and our fun weekend toys, like the other poster said, the higher the lift the more exposed the drive shaft angles are. Over revolutions and time, the angle at which the Drive shaft and the Zeppa joint are in (at the transfercase) starts get warn out and will eventually start to spit some grease. Once that joint starts spitting grease it will eventually seize and there will be no more drive shaft.

The other variable:

When disconnecting your sway bar links, your front axle will be able to articulate freely and use more travel. Because the zeppa joint is just a straight boot and it doesn't rotate like a aftermarket CV style shaft, it puts more stress and wear on that joint. So this will actually accelerate the death of your drive shaft.

Staying below 2.5" of net lift will decrease the chances of quick wear and tear on your drive shafts.

Staying connected will also save your drive shaft from a speedy death.

But staying connected also means that in situations where you need articulation can be the difference of rolling your rig and not rolling it.

You pay to play.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:33 AM   #9
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You will be ok at 2.5. You may have to use a exhaust spacer.

The stocks can run a an angle but there's a breaking point where the boot rips, grease it lost and eventually the DS will fail. Flexing the front end will increase the chance of this happening.

Aftermarket shafts will need control arms to set the pinion close to the DS angle or vibrations will happen.

Run the stockers as long as possible. It's a whole new ball game with aftermarket shafts.

My front started losing grease so I replaced it. Rear is soon
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:48 AM   #10
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Which kit did you get? I was going to go with RK as well but the one I chose looks like it only comes with the Shocks and Springs.
Mine came with my RK lift kit, however both the front and rear lines have separate skus, so you could pick them up separately...but not sure they would be the cheapest out there.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:49 AM   #11
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Good to know about the Control arms. I'm coming from the Sport car world (Hence the name) so I'm accustomed to the slammed on the ground for handling route. Ugh, still miss my Mustang though....just sucks I have to see her every day since the guy who bought her works up by my job.

Per my Sig, I don't have a whole lot of money at the moment lol, so I'm trying to budget out all my Mods.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:54 AM   #12
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Do a simple leveling kit or budget boost and some 33's.
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Old 10-02-2012, 10:59 AM   #13
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I love that video just not the grinding boot noise.
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:18 AM   #14
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Do a simple leveling kit or budget boost and some 33's.
I have thought about this. And it seems like a GREAT idea since I'm on a HUGE budget lol. I guess that Man ego just really wants to go big or go home lol. Still planning on a 15" wheel though and they make the Duratracs in a 33.....seems like a good idea lol. 33s will work with the stock wheels too, though I believe I would need spacers correct?
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbullitt

I have thought about this. And it seems like a GREAT idea since I'm on a HUGE budget lol. I guess that Man ego just really wants to go big or go home lol. Still planning on a 15" wheel though and they make the Duratracs in a 33.....seems like a good idea lol. 33s will work with the stock wheels too, though I believe I would need spacers correct?
Yep
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Old 10-02-2012, 12:41 PM   #16
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Yep
Yep


lol

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