Dynatrac or Teraflex housing? Do any vendors give good pricing? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 07-10-2013, 01:24 PM   #1
Jeeper
 
HK_Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ken Caryl Valley, Colorado
Posts: 2,256
Dynatrac or Teraflex housing? Do any vendors give good pricing?

So I have been looking at the Dynatrac and Teraflex housings and am wondering if the clearance advantage of the Dynatrac is worth a few hundred dollars more. Also, is there a compelling reason to choose one or the other?

Have you guys used any forum vendors to get good pricing?

I think I may also re-gear when I do this. I am not liking the 4.10s with 35s. Leaning towards the 4.56 Yukon gears (2012 2-door Auto Rubicon with 35s) but some are advising the 4.88. I am looking at the chart but wanted some real-world experiences and your thoughts.

If anyone has used either 4.56 or 4.88 on a 3.6 Pentastar, please let me know what you think. On paper, the 4.56 makes sense but I do live in the mountains at 6,000 feet and go above 11,000 feet...sometimes 12,000+.

__________________
2014 JKU Rubicon- all white with tan leather

LOD front bumper, AEV rear bumper, TeraFlex tire carrier, Shrockworks sliders, Method Standard wheels, 35" MTR Kevlars, Englewood driveshafts, Synergy 3" Lift, Rancho 9000XLs, Artec truss, Teraflex C-gussets, Grabars, HotHead Liners, MORE dead pedal, Tuffy underseat box, Uniden 520 XL, 10lb CO2 tank...
HK_Runner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 01:28 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
derf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Aurora, CO
Posts: 1,384
I have 4.56's with 35's in the flatlands where we have to struggle to find any elevation much over 1,000 ft. They're fine here. I'm not sure how the elevation affects the 3.6. I would have considered 4.88's if I lived that high up.

__________________
2012 JK - 3.6/NSG370/NP241/D30/D44 - Grimm Jeeper
1986 J10 - 360/700R4/NP208/D44HD/D60FF - Truck Norris

My gear ratio calculator
derf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 03:24 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
PieFace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,288
i dont think Yukon makes 4.56 for a D44.

at least not front and rear.

I have Yukons ready to install, 4.88

I would definatly go dynatrac. Cant miss with their stuff.
__________________
RIPP and MAG go head to head in...
JeepLab's SuperCharger Shootout
running now at jeeplab.com
coming soon....Prodigy Pentastar TURBO
PieFace is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 04:41 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
HK_Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ken Caryl Valley, Colorado
Posts: 2,256
Yeah, I now think Dynatrac is the way to go here. I checked and Yukon does not make 4.56s though apparently they will soon, since they have a part number for it. So I will need to either go 4.88s or go with Nitro. Nitro makes 4.56s and are apparently very good as well.
__________________
2014 JKU Rubicon- all white with tan leather

LOD front bumper, AEV rear bumper, TeraFlex tire carrier, Shrockworks sliders, Method Standard wheels, 35" MTR Kevlars, Englewood driveshafts, Synergy 3" Lift, Rancho 9000XLs, Artec truss, Teraflex C-gussets, Grabars, HotHead Liners, MORE dead pedal, Tuffy underseat box, Uniden 520 XL, 10lb CO2 tank...
HK_Runner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 04:43 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
HK_Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ken Caryl Valley, Colorado
Posts: 2,256
Oh, my OEM axle has EVO sleeves welded on at the ends. I will need to remove those for the Dynatrac to fit. Will my axle shaft then be the weak point?
__________________
2014 JKU Rubicon- all white with tan leather

LOD front bumper, AEV rear bumper, TeraFlex tire carrier, Shrockworks sliders, Method Standard wheels, 35" MTR Kevlars, Englewood driveshafts, Synergy 3" Lift, Rancho 9000XLs, Artec truss, Teraflex C-gussets, Grabars, HotHead Liners, MORE dead pedal, Tuffy underseat box, Uniden 520 XL, 10lb CO2 tank...
HK_Runner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 05:14 PM   #6
Supporting Vendor
 
JeepAddOns-Chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 1,095
The ProRock is the better choice and yes, your stock axle shafts will be the weak link in that setup. Assuming you're getting this housing, you're running larger tires? If so, I would recommend running chromo shafts (not RCVs) Reason being that RCVs will not break and that will make your fuse the R&P, which isn't an everyday trail fix. Chromo shafts, standard spicer u-joints and let the joints be the fuse. Will be very tough to break them, but on the off chance you do, chances are you won't bend the ears on your shafts and you'll be back on the trail in half an hour if you have spares.

Nitro makes a very good quality set of gears and as you mentioned, they are available in 4.56s. I would highly recommend taking a look at Motive Gear as well on the 4.56s. They're also available and the brand I run in my own rig. For the budget minded Yukon has the cheaper USA Standard 4.56, but it's not quite as much as a quiet gear.
__________________
We are currently away from the forums and unavailable for quotes. Please contact our sales team at 800-388-8637.
JeepAddOns-Chris is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 05:30 PM   #7
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 37,397
Big shot
kjeeper10 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
HK_Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ken Caryl Valley, Colorado
Posts: 2,256
Haha, I am far from it. I am basically desperate to get rid of this pull to the right. Looks like (from the alignment shop and the Jeep Lead technician) that the same installer who did all my work, also screwed up some welding and may have overheated the Cs when welding on the gussets. So now I have one degree higher caster on the right (4.6 vs. 3.7) and it still pulls to the right. Next steps- AEV drop brackets and a Bilstein steering stabilizer. After that, I may have to pull the trigger on this housing and axles and gearing- may as well do all those at one shot.
__________________
2014 JKU Rubicon- all white with tan leather

LOD front bumper, AEV rear bumper, TeraFlex tire carrier, Shrockworks sliders, Method Standard wheels, 35" MTR Kevlars, Englewood driveshafts, Synergy 3" Lift, Rancho 9000XLs, Artec truss, Teraflex C-gussets, Grabars, HotHead Liners, MORE dead pedal, Tuffy underseat box, Uniden 520 XL, 10lb CO2 tank...
HK_Runner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 09:07 PM   #9
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 37,397
Are your arms the same length on both sides ?
kjeeper10 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 09:12 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
HK_Runner's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ken Caryl Valley, Colorado
Posts: 2,256
Not any more Now the lower right is a bit longer- maybe 1/8 inch longer. That results in almost a one degree higher caster on the right side (4.6 vs 3.7) to combat the pull...did that on purpose. It has helped slightly but it still pulls to the right. AEV brackets and Bilstein stabilizer are on hand now.
__________________
2014 JKU Rubicon- all white with tan leather

LOD front bumper, AEV rear bumper, TeraFlex tire carrier, Shrockworks sliders, Method Standard wheels, 35" MTR Kevlars, Englewood driveshafts, Synergy 3" Lift, Rancho 9000XLs, Artec truss, Teraflex C-gussets, Grabars, HotHead Liners, MORE dead pedal, Tuffy underseat box, Uniden 520 XL, 10lb CO2 tank...
HK_Runner is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 09:21 PM   #11
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 37,397
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
Not any more Now the lower right is a bit longer- maybe 1/8 inch longer. That results in almost a one degree higher caster on the right side (4.6 vs 3.7) to combat the pull...did that on purpose. It has helped slightly but it still pulls to the right. AEV brackets and Bilstein stabilizer are on hand now.
Awesome. The SS might help combat the right pull with a left push.
My 7000 has a good push.
kjeeper10 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 07-10-2013, 09:25 PM   #12
MallCrawler

WF Supporting Member
::WF Moderator::
 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 37,397
HK, do you recall what your rear thrust angle is ?

kjeeper10 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




Download our Mobile App

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:05 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC