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Old 09-02-2014, 11:45 AM   #1
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EYourLife 52" Light bar $100 - thoughts and install

Hey All,

I had posted my thoughts in another thread, and questions came up about install. I thought I'd create a new thread in hopes it might help a few and anyone ever needed install info. This way it's easy to find and not buried a few pages into a FYI cheap light bar thread.

REVIEW:
So I purchased my 52" bar off Ebay about a month ago, and I am very happy! Mine is mounted with the Rough Country brackets. Mine was sold as "300W 52INCH LED SPOT FLOOD Work Driving " and I paid $141.99 free shipping, at my door in 4 days. Based on the other thread the same, or a vary similar bar is available on Amazon for around $100. Here are some pics and a video of mine at night (please ignore when I say high beams and fogs, don't know what I was thinking, but I am aware the fogs cut out with highbeams....)














BUT --- There are some things yall should know before jumping on the 50"ish bandwagon.

These things make a lot of noise, and depending on the mount it can be significantly worse. These 50" light bars create wind noise, regardless of how or where you mount them. Depending on the position of the mount and the design of the bar, that wind noise can be better or worse.

Worst of all, if you choose the wrong mount they can WHISTLE! We're not talking a little. We are talking about ear splittingly loud, give you a migraine headache in 5 min, can't drown it out even with the stereo at full blast kind of whistle.

The Rough Country mount I purchased appears to be the wrong mount. Mine would whistle from 35-75 mph and from 45-65 mph it was unbearable. I picked this mount for two reasons, first the price was right (Also Ebay for $99.95), but also because it appeared to me the light bar sat a little lower, more in line with the top of the windshield, which I felt was a cleaner look. Turns out the combination of this bar with this mount can create that unbearable whistle I was talking about. At first I thought this might be my reward for going with a cheap chinese lightbar, but after consulting the internets I quickly learned that this can happen with all light bars, from the 3x3 all the way up to the 52" and from the Eyourlife cheap bars all the way through the $1600 Rigids. Some noise created can be harmonic, other is caused by wind. I tried rubber hose to act as a dampener, and that failed, then I tried a 18' package of door trim on the cooling fins and it got better. 3 packages of door trim later I have no more whistle, only wind noise which is tolerable. Had this not worked, I would have uninstalled mine and sold it.... If you go with the rough country mount, and this bar, I highly recommend buying 3 packs of this at the same time (if you value your hearing and sanity):


Amazon.com: Cowles T5602 18" Black Edge Trim: Automotive

Another note worth mentioning is that along with the wind noise, some posts I have read indicate that the turbulence created can wreak havoc with a soft top. it is possible more noise and even violent slapping can result. I currently have my hardtop on, so I cannot confirm or deny. But again, it seemed worth mentioning for those seriously considering a light bar.

INSTALL:
For the install I started out with the wiring. I began with a Genssi LED light bar harness, Again, I went with EBay. While this certainly is not the cheapest option, it seemed like a nice clean install to me, had the switch I wanted, and included a 40A relay. win win win IMO.


As for mounting of the switch, I went with the "Daystar KJ71034BK Lower Switch Panel - Black" This time I went Amazon. As a prime member i couldn't pass up the free shipping. The quality on this is marginal. Fit and finish leaves a bit to be desired. Again, cost and ease made this my choice, but if money was no object I might have gone with the more elegant SPOD solution.


Not wanting to reinvent the wheel, I followed this video for the switch panel install:


CONTINUED BELOW:

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Old 09-02-2014, 11:46 AM   #2
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To route the cable I started in the middle at the battery. Connecting to the battery I mounted the cable into the cabin as follows:



Picture above shows relay mounted just over the battery on the bolt used for the hood shocks.




Above picture is wire coming through the firewall just inside the rounded corner of the cowl on the passenger side


Above picture is inside the passenger door, panel on the side of the dash just pops out reveal the hole show. Poke out insulation for access to firewall area as shown above


Picture above is the wire routed behind the glove box and across to the switch panel





Routing to the light is much easier and quicker. To keep the light "right side up" The pigtail on mine was on the driver side. I followed the main harness across the firewall and zip tied the new wires there.




I then followed existing wires into the cowl area near the driver side wiper arm and removing the two screws pulled the wire out there.




Then I went up the middle of the Rough Country bracket to the light. I had removed just a little of the protective gasket in the center to make room for the wires in the crease.


I connected the harness to the tail on the light using water proof heat shrink type crimp connectors.




CONCLUSION:
I hope this helps some of yall. I am very happy with mine, but there were a few days there before the door trim I was going to rip it off! I imagine that the rigid bar might last a little longer, or perhaps be a little brighter, but for the price, I don't think you can beat these. At about 1/10th the cost these throw out a TON of light, far more than one could ever use on the road, and they seem very well built. Best of luck.

--Jeff

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Old 09-02-2014, 03:59 PM   #3
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Great write up. Nice job
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Old 09-02-2014, 04:39 PM   #4
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Thanks for the write up.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:20 PM   #5
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Great write up! So I have the KC Apollo long range spot lights and I'm wondering if I can just splice into the existing wiring and switch instead of rewiring everything a second time. Negates the need for two switches and if I'm going to have the KC's on, I'll definitely have the light bar on. Would this be do-able or would the wiring harness that came with the KC's not be adequate to handle the load 50" light bar?
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:48 AM   #6
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first i wanna thank you for this write up second
do you have the ebay or amazon link?
third which bravket do you think is best?
and fourth whats your lift and tire size .. i love it !
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKS View Post
Negates the need for two switches and if I'm going to have the KC's on, I'll definitely have the light bar on. Would this be do-able or would the wiring harness that came with the KC's not be adequate to handle the load 50" light bar?
Well, unfortunately I am not an expert at wiring. However, I think it would be all about AMP draw. As long as the draw doesn't overload the relay you'll be good. What you could always do is add a second relay under the hood, and new wires from there to the additional light using the existing switch to activate both relays.


Quote:
Originally Posted by benzat View Post
first i wanna thank you for this write up second
do you have the ebay or amazon link?
third which bracket do you think is best?
and fourth whats your lift and tire size .. i love it !
The link provided to Amazon in the other thread was:
Amazon.com: Eyourlife 300W 30000LM Led Off Road Light Bar Flood Spot Combo Beam- 100pcs*3w high intensity LEDS: Automotive

Apparently the seller I bought from on EBay isn't selling this item anymore which is a shame because they were helpful and fast. However there are other sellers. The exact title of the auction was "12V 24V 300W 52INCH LED SPOT FLOOD Work Driving LIGHT BAR". These were the 3W Epistar LEDs at a 6000K temperature (nice bright white). A little hunting and I am sure you can find the same product. I was also careful to select US Stock, but only because I am impatient and wanted it as quickly as I could get it.

When it comes to what bracket is best, again I am unsure. I only have experience with the Rough Country bracket, and while I am very pleased with the style, I had a lot of noise problems with this combination. Perhaps one of the brackets that holds the bar a bit higher where it isn't catching so much lifting wind off the windshield? But again, I don't know that to be a fact, just speculation based on my experience and some reading I've done YMMV.

Lift and tires, I am running a 3" zone lift running on Nitto Trail Grappler 35x12.50 R17. Thanks, I am very happy with it.


-- Jeff
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:48 AM   #8
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I was doing some looking around and found that the Ebay seller I bought from has a new auction link. Not only did the price go down a bit, but they are also including a wiring kit now.

Eyourlife 300W 52'' 54'' LED Work Driving Light Bar Flood Spot 4x4 Offroad Jeep | eBay
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:40 AM   #9
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If you don't mind I'll add my experience with another brand of 50" bracket.

First of all if you like your drive quiet and peaceful a 50" light bar is not for you. It will make noise!

I purchased a 50" bar a few weeks ago on a whim then started researching mounts. Of course I looked very hard at the Rugged Ridge cause it has a great price. I also looked at several others and narrowed it down to the RR or Poison Spyder mounts. In all the pics I saw it appeared the RR put the bar a couple inches higher and further forward from the windshield than the PS mount. The downside is the PS is mor than twice as much. After much deliberation I ponied up the extra cash and purchased the PS mount in aluminum for $233 using the forum discount from Northridge 4x4.

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I scuffed them up, spayed with Rustoleum rattle can bed liner, and reinstalled.
Edit to finish (phone app crashing):
I am very pleased with the outcome. The bar is about 3/4" from the windshield at it's closest point and the same height.
Noise: I get an intermittent mild whistle or hum at speeds below 30, kinda like blowing over a bottle. Above that is just wind noise. I have my soft top on for the summer and the wind does create some buffeting above your head. It is actually quieter with the sunrider back. You can still easily carry a conversation and the radio drowns it out nicely. I have not tried anything yet to mitigate the noise, when I do (probably this weekend) I'll report back.
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Old 09-03-2014, 11:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All Terrain JK View Post
If you don't mind I'll add my experience with another brand of 50" bracket.

First of all if you like your drive quiet and peaceful a 50" light bar is not for you. It will make noise!

I purchased a 50" bar a few weeks ago on a whim then started researching mounts. Of course I looked very hard at the Rugged Ridge cause it has a great price. I also looked at several others and narrowed it down to the RR or Poison Spyder mounts. In all the pics I saw it appeared the RR put the bar a couple inches higher and further forward from the windshield than the PS mount. The downside is the PS is mor than twice as much. After much deliberation I ponied up the extra cash and purchased the PS mount in aluminum for $233 using the forum discount from Northridge 4x4.

As you can see they come bare metal. After a quick test fit

I scuffed them up, spayed with Rustoleum rattle can bed liner, and reinstalled.
Edit to finish (phone app crashing):
I am very pleased with the outcome. The bar is about 3/4" from the windshield at it's closest point and the same height.
Noise: I get an intermittent mild whistle or hum at speeds below 30, kinda like blowing over a bottle. Above that is just wind noise. I have my soft top on for the summer and the wind does create some buffeting above your head. It is actually quieter with the sunrider back. You can still easily carry a conversation and the radio drowns it out nicely. I have not tried anything yet to mitigate the noise, when I do (probably this weekend) I'll report back.
How noisy is the PS in your opinion?
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:08 PM   #11
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In terms of the whistle it's like someone lightly blowing in a pop bottle the changes pitch slightly. This is only at low speeds. I can stop it if I reach up and put my hand between the light bar and windshield so I'm confident I can get rid of it .
The wind noise is like having your windows down all the time. The soft top buffet happens at highway speeds but can be covered with the radio at half volume. I suspect the hard top will be much quieter.
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by All Terrain JK View Post
If you don't mind I'll add my experience with another brand of 50" bracket.
Not at all! Great post, thank you for adding! The more info the better. May help folks make better more informed decisions in the future. I know I had some rose colored glasses on when I ordered. Love my bar, but had I known what I know now about the noise and bracket options, I might have done things a little differently. Thanks again!

Try some of that door trim on the cooling fins for your whistle. It's easy, it blends and looks good, and I have noticed no negative effect. Best of all it's a cheap and relatively easy to install fix. There is an adhesive of some type in the channel of the trim, make sure you get it pushed on there well, and you give it a few hours to set in the sun before you take off down the highway

-- Jeff
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:16 PM   #13
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I'm anxious to see mine lit up, I still need to finish the wiring. I installed two 3x3 LEDs on a fair lead mount also so I'm debating how I want to install the switches.
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:32 PM   #14
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I wanna put a flood style of either a 7" bar or a coupe of 3x3's down on my push bar/mini stinger, and then a 3x3 spot on each A Pillar at the bottom of the windshield. I may wire the spots into the windshield bar switch, but I definitely want to put whatever floods that I install on the bumper on a separate switch, as I may use it on road in inclimate weather. They will be aimed very low for bad weather and or after dark winching.

Then a couple of floods on the back bumper and some rock lights will finish out all my lighting plans . Be a while before I get it all done, but I have a pretty good idea what I want.

-- Jeff
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:48 PM   #15
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Yall got me wanting one now for those prices.... still not sure if i really need it or would use it so im holding off for now... they seem to work good from the youtube videos...
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:22 PM   #16
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Yeah... this is some great info!

I always wanted to do a light bar on my Jeep (even coming close to putting one on my Patriot Sport, years ago). Honestly though, I hadn't even considered the potential noise/wind issues with these things. (At least one person said with the big, round lights on a 4 or 5 light bar above the windshield, it hurt the aerodynamics badly enough that it cost them 2MPG during highway driving!)

Does anyone know if it's a less noisy alternative to do a shorter light bar that mounts on the hood, or even a bumper mounted one? I could probably live with the reduced light output of a 20" or so bar mounted like that, vs. this big 50" across the windshield, if it solved the other problems.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:32 PM   #17
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I have no experience with these light bars but I would caution you against the door trim mod on the heat sinks. Obviously they felt they needed the heat sinks to cool the lights down. By you putting the door trim over them you are blocking this extra cooling which might result in overheating.

Now maybe there is enough margin in the design and it is only a concern when in 100+ degree heat, but still something to consider. I would turn them on and check how hot the bar is after 10-20 minutes. If it is too hot to touch then I would rethink your modification.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:35 PM   #18
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I've seen both! many of the hood mount options I've seen bolt into the forward part of the hood hinge. And when it comes to mounting options, there are more bumper options than anything else.

Here is a google image search of the hood options :
hood mounted light bar - Google Search

I've not gotten that far on my lighting install yet, so I can't comment on pros or cons.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:43 PM   #19
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I have no experience with these light bars but I would caution you against the door trim mod on the heat sinks. Obviously they felt they needed the heat sinks to cool the lights down. By you putting the door trim over them you are blocking this extra cooling which might result in overheating.

Now maybe there is enough margin in the design and it is only a concern when in 100+ degree heat, but still something to consider. I would turn them on and check how hot the bar is after 10-20 minutes. If it is too hot to touch then I would rethink your modification.
Mine doesn't seem to get hot at all. And while this certainly changes the aerodynamics of the surface, it does not reduce the surface area. Still plenty of room for air exchange. As the bar does not get hot enough to have negative impact on the tirm, and the heat sink appears to be excessively large, I don't think this is really a significant safety concern. I did my testing during our "heat wave" in St Louis, upper 90s for about two weeks straight. Finally started to cool back down just before the holiday weekend!

Good catch, and definately worth mentioning, but I think it's a reasonably safe modification.

-- Jeff
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:51 PM   #20
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Can you post a pic of where you placed all of the door trim?
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Old 09-04-2014, 09:41 AM   #21
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Can you post a pic of where you placed all of the door trim?
I'd like to see this too if possible. Appreciate the write-up! Might have to pick me one up for such a great price
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:09 AM   #22
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Sorry yall, was busy last night and I just got to the pictures this morning. I more or less put the trim on nearly every fin. Here are a few pics, although now that everyone is looking close I wish I would have made better cuts getting everything to line up better.





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Old 09-04-2014, 08:18 PM   #23
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I thought it was more of the bracket making the whistle noise opposed to the light its self. I guess I was wrong
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:22 PM   #24
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Well, yes and no. It's the light that the whistle comes from, but it is the where the bracket positions the light in relation to the windshield that determines if there will be whistle, and how much. So the bracket plays a huge roll in the whistle, but it is the light itself that actually generates all the noise

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Old 09-06-2014, 08:46 PM   #25
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Do you have a link to the exact light bar you bought or would recommend?
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Old 09-06-2014, 08:48 PM   #26
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I was doing some looking around and found that the Ebay seller I bought from has a new auction link. Not only did the price go down a bit, but they are also including a wiring kit now.

Eyourlife 300W 52'' 54'' LED Work Driving Light Bar Flood Spot 4x4 Offroad Jeep | eBay
This is it
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:19 PM   #27
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what is the deal with 50" or 52" do they all use the same mounts?
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:27 PM   #28
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Does anyone know of a mount that keeps these below the roof line?
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:52 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by hychenj View Post
Does anyone know of a mount that keeps these below the roof line?
With the PSC mounts the bar is even with the top of the windshield and about 3/4" in front of it.
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Old 09-06-2014, 10:55 PM   #30
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