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Old 04-02-2013, 07:05 AM   #31
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I'm surprised that blindly following the advice of perceived "authority figures" hasn't already taught you any lessons. Rest assured it will one day.

The dealer also says that a lifter is the issue after the defective driver's side head triggers a CEL. I can keep going about other examples where what a dealership says means absolutely nothing, but I think you get the point

My post isn't directed toward your oil change interval, but rather to the reason behind your choice. Use good judgement, logic, common sense, and multiple facts (and opinions) from various unbiased sources. Making decisions based on one person's input (especially one who could care less what happens to you or your vehicle) is quite a risk you'll be taking. Don't assume that being an authority figure automatically makes someone all-knowing and incapable of being wrong. Even doctors make plenty of medical mistakes.
LOL. Thanks, Dad. It is always better to take advice from an anonymous guy on an internet forum than from the manufacturer and the company that is going to warranty the engine for the next 5 years. If someone wants to change their oil at 500, have at it. As for me, I am comfortable following the recommendations of the manufacturer.

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Old 04-02-2013, 08:29 AM   #32
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That document looks like it came out of a service manual?
FWIW. the engine cover and oil pan in that document look nothing like mine.

I originally heard this theory months ago and being curious I pulled the cap and found no oil in the canister. What I did find was the filter sets on the center post and there is a spring at the bottom. With the filter in place and cap tightened down oil is forced thru the filter instead of leaking around it.

Last night, when Miser posted about changing his oil, I checked again, it was about 6 hours since I last drove my Jeep. When I pulled the cap and filet there was trace oil still on the filter but it wasn't dripping as if the oil in the housing had just been released.

When I do oil changes, I pull the drain plug and then go up top and swap the filter. When I loosen the cap, there is no temporary increase in oil flow out the drain either.

If oil is staying inside the filter housing, I'm not seeing it. That's why I believe this is a myth.
Oh, I'm not debating the issue, just pointing out where it may have originated. That's why I was curious as to the origin of the document. And my cover doesn't look anything like that, either. But since the 3.6 is a fleet-wide motor, I gave the discrepancy a pass.

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Old 04-02-2013, 09:32 AM   #33
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I had heard that the oil from the factory has a special additive in it for break-in.
That's just the assembly lube mixing in with regular oil, not really a break-in oil per se.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:01 AM   #34
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I have around a million miles under my belt and I am in the change it early on the first couple of changes camp. I have been doing it that way on every vehicle I have owned and never had an issue. Not sure how there could be a vacuum on the oil system as I know you can unscrew the oil filler cap or pull the dip stick with no problem.
As for the quick drain oil plug set up I would make sure you put some kind of skid plate around that or you will be leaving a puddle of oil on the trail somewhere. Looks way to easy to damage.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:00 PM   #35
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LOL. Thanks, Dad. It is always better to take advice from an anonymous guy on an internet forum than from the manufacturer and the company that is going to warranty the engine for the next 5 years. If someone wants to change their oil at 500, have at it. As for me, I am comfortable following the recommendations of the manufacturer.
It's not my advice, it's just good common sense. I'm just saying that being an authority figure doesn't make you all-knowing and you will get screwed if you think that. My dealership told me to go beat the crap out of my Jeep off-road. Do you think they're going to honor the warranty if they find trail damage? Of course not. I don't know how many other vehicles you have, but I don't throw caution to the wind just because I have a warranty. The vehicle is useless if its sitting in the shop, or if I have to take off from work to shuttle it back and forth to the dealership while they play games. Again, I'm not talking about your oil change interval--3000 is fine (Though I did have metal in my oil filter when I changed it 1500). I'm just trying to give you some advice for the future, son
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:36 PM   #36
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OK now I'm confused. I just recently purchased my 2013 JeepWU and I'm at about 1,800 miles on it. We're planning a Grand Canyon trip next week and going to put about 1,000 miles on it which should get me to about 3,000 miles. I was going to wait until AFTER the trip to do the first oil change...........but now you guys have me wondering if I should get it done BEFORE we go?
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:41 PM   #37
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OK now I'm confused. I just recently purchased my 2013 JeepWU and I'm at about 1,800 miles on it. We're planning a Grand Canyon trip next week and going to put about 1,000 miles on it which should get me to about 3,000 miles. I was going to wait until AFTER the trip to do the first oil change...........but now you guys have me wondering if I should get it done BEFORE we go?
Follow the recommendation in your manual, and you will be fine. Change the oil earlier, and you will be fine. That being said, I have always changed my oil early during the break in period(1000 miles) to remove the metal shavings.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:49 PM   #38
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Are you guys doing an oil change below 1,000 miles just to get out of the "stock" oil? I know you Jeep guys don't like your cars stock.........but oil, really?

From an outside perspective, your biased based on history or what your dad has done with his cars taken out of the combination, what is more likely to "cause damage or harm" to the vehicle, taking the "break-in oil" out before your 2nd gas fill up or doing it at 3,000 miles?
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:04 PM   #39
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Are you guys doing an oil change below 1,000 miles just to get out of the "stock" oil? I know you Jeep guys don't like your cars stock.........but oil, really?

From an outside perspective, your biased based on history or what your dad has done with his cars taken out of the combination, what is more likely to "cause damage or harm" to the vehicle, taking the "break-in oil" out before your 2nd gas fill up or doing it at 3,000 miles?
Inside a new engine, there are small metal shavings from the manufacturing process and from the new engine parts moving together during initial use. Most people change there oil early to remove these particles from the oil/filter so they don't cause more engine wear than necessary. There is no special break in oil.

Is it necessary to change the oil faster than what Chrysler recommends? No. Will it do more damage to change the oil early? No.

Many new Jeep owners, such as me, don't like the idea of metal shavings floating around the engine regardless of how good the filter is.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:28 PM   #40
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Inside a new engine, there are small metal shavings from the manufacturing process and from the new engine parts moving together during initial use. Most people change there oil early to remove these particles from the oil/filter so they don't cause more engine wear than necessary. There is no special break in oil.

Is it necessary to change the oil faster than what Chrysler recommends? No. Will it do more damage to change the oil early? No.

Many new Jeep owners, such as me, don't like the idea of metal shavings floating around the engine regardless of how good the filter is.
That sounds like a very reasonable concern. Maybe 2,000 miles is enough time to switch to synthetic. Thanks.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:43 PM   #41
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There are pros and cons regarding synthetics and the same with conventional. This is a topic of discussion that could go on forever. This is why I am parked on the statement of my preference is conventional and those that like synthetics, then go for it, because it is your nickel.
I have found in past discussions that those of use that like conventional are not going to change our minds and the same for those that like synthetics so it's really a mute point, but thank you for your input!
I have a 1995 Tahoe 2-door with 223,000 miles on it. At about 160,000 I had the heads off, dealing with a testy aftermarket radiator vendor. There was no piston ring step in any cylinder, and there was no valve stem groove on any rocker arm, at all. You could not feel an edge with your finger, nail or scribe. I have always, and will always run Mobile 1 Synthetic in any engine I own.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:45 PM   #42
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Inside a new engine, there are small metal shavings from the manufacturing process and from the new engine parts moving together during initial use. Most people change there oil early to remove these particles from the oil/filter so they don't cause more engine wear than necessary. There is no special break in oil.

Is it necessary to change the oil faster than what Chrysler recommends? No. Will it do more damage to change the oil early? No.

Many new Jeep owners, such as me, don't like the idea of metal shavings floating around the engine regardless of how good the filter is.
This is a idea taken too far especially with modern machining, assembly technology and metal quality. People seem to have this idea that new engines produce metal shavings as if it's on a lathe while running. Simply not true. Also think about this, if the initial "build up" of metal shavings is supposedly so high in the beginning, why are you ok with driving around for a 1000 miles while it "damages" your engine? Why not change it every, say 100 miles until you get passed the break in period?

Too expensive you say? Too inconvenient? Well I thought you guy's motto was oil is cheaper than a new engine so what gives?

Let me be clear on something, I'm not really trying to know the early oil change guys. It's their money and they are going to do what they're going to do regardless of anything I say. But the "newbies" might allow their ear to be bent alittle and perhaps save themselves some time, money and not to mention reduce the waste of precious oil. I mean, it's not like we are driving the most efficient vehicles on the road to begin with right? I really believe in treading lightly even as it pertains to off the trail. Imagine how much oil would be saved if everyone just followed manufacturers recommendations instead of old school traditions.

You know, take the advice of the people who've spent millions upon millions of dollars in research and development in order to find what works and what doesn't as opposed to doing what your dad/grandfather did with his old cars.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:39 PM   #43
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I have a 1995 Tahoe 2-door with 223,000 miles on it. At about 160,000 I had the heads off, dealing with a testy aftermarket radiator vendor. There was no piston ring step in any cylinder, and there was no valve stem groove on any rocker arm, at all. You could not feel an edge with your finger, nail or scribe. I have always, and will always run Mobile 1 Synthetic in any engine I own.

The reason I posted my old story about synthetic vs conventional oil...

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Old 04-02-2013, 02:39 PM   #44
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I am pushing 69, have had SEVERAL cars and trucks. I was taught by a race car builder/driver and a automotive machinist who built his own engines from scratch. when dealing with NEW engines, ALL have assembly lube and CAN have metal shavings from manufacturing/machining. I was taught change oil at 100 miles, 1000 miles and 3000 miles, then go to whatever interval you like. I have NEVER lost an engine because of wear. just sayin
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:44 PM   #45
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I am pushing 69, have had SEVERAL cars and trucks. I was taught by a race car builder/driver and a automotive machinist who built his own engines from scratch. when dealing with NEW engines, ALL have assembly lube and CAN have metal shavings from manufacturing/machining. I was taught change oil at 100 miles, 1000 miles and 3000 miles, then go to whatever interval you like. I have NEVER lost an engine because of wear. just sayin

Good advice ... exactly what I do except I start at 500 miles after the initial break-in period recommended by the factory.

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Old 04-02-2013, 02:55 PM   #46
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Inside a new engine, there are small metal shavings from the manufacturing process and from the new engine parts moving together during initial use. Most people change there oil early to remove these particles from the oil/filter so they don't cause more engine wear than necessary. There is no special break in oil.

Is it necessary to change the oil faster than what Chrysler recommends? No. Will it do more damage to change the oil early? No.

Many new Jeep owners, such as me, don't like the idea of metal shavings floating around the engine regardless of how good the filter is.
X2, you just hit the nail right on the head!
Hopefully some will think about what you just said in your post and just maybe it will help some to achieve longer engine life. But there are some that just think that changing oil is a waste of time and money, well that's O.K. too, because it is their nickel! If you can help one out of ten, then it's worth posting!!!
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:04 PM   #47
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X2, you just hit the nail right on the head!
Hopefully some will think about what you just said in your post and just maybe it will help some to achieve longer engine life. But there are some that just think that changing oil is a waste of time and money, well that's O.K. too, because it is their nickel! If you can help one out of ten, then it's worth posting!!!
No one in here has said that changing oil is a waste of time and money.
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Old 04-20-2013, 02:39 PM   #48
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Just to chime in on syn vs conventional. Go the jeep.com and explore the user profile vehicle info. Chrysler recommends on their videos to switch to synthetic oil for longer life, increased performance, and better fuel economy. This is from Chrysler. The engines of today are improved from those of yesterday. Synthetic oils have been designed around the modern engine.
So in the debate of synthetic vs conventional, Chrysler says synthetic for their new engines is highly recommended.
Source- jeep.com user profile vehicle information pages
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:34 PM   #49
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That document looks like it came out of a service manual?
FWIW. the engine cover and oil pan in that document look nothing like mine.



If oil is staying inside the filter housing, I'm not seeing it. That's why I believe this is a myth.
That is because that is from our Chrysler service info. And it doesn't look like your engine cover is because thats a Grand Cherokee or Charger or Challenger engine cover.
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:05 PM   #50
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Just to chime in on syn vs conventional. Go the jeep.com and explore the user profile vehicle info. Chrysler recommends on their videos to switch to synthetic oil for longer life, increased performance, and better fuel economy. This is from Chrysler. The engines of today are improved from those of yesterday. Synthetic oils have been designed around the modern engine.
So in the debate of synthetic vs conventional, Chrysler says synthetic for their new engines is highly recommended.
Source- jeep.com user profile vehicle information pages
Exactly what link and what video? ... I've been out to jeep.com owners logon and can't find any videos.

Screen shot would be helpful...

Thanks.

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Old 04-20-2013, 05:15 PM   #51
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Exactly what link and what video? ... I've been out to jeep.com owners logon and can't find any videos.

Screen shot would be helpful...

Thanks.

.

I aint smart enough to do a snapshot but sign in and go to maintain&care and click on oil change and there is a video about synthetic.
https://www.moparownerconnect.com/oc...aspx#playVideo
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:30 PM   #52
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I aint smart enough to do a snapshot but sign in and go to maintain&care and click on oil change and there is a video about synthetic.
https://www.moparownerconnect.com/oc...aspx#playVideo
The disclaimer in the video is "ask your service professional to see if extended maintenance intervals are appropriate for your vehicle"
I did just that...
The answer was use synthetic if you want, as long as recommended maintenance intervals in the manual are maintained
So unless your the type to go the max 10K between changes, I don't see the advantage
Personally, 5K is my limit. The light usually comes on at 5k anyways.
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:53 PM   #53
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The disclaimer in the video is "ask your service professional to see if extended maintenance intervals are appropriate for your vehicle"
I did just that...
The answer was use synthetic if you want, as long as recommended maintenance intervals in the manual are maintained
So unless your the type to go the max 10K between changes, I don't see the advantage
Personally, 5K is my limit. The light usually comes on at 5k anyways.
I am at 7500 miles and still no oil change light, maybe its broke lol. I personally would never go even 7500 miles let alone 10K but I still like to waste money on synthetic cause it makes me feel warm and fuzzy.
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Old 04-20-2013, 06:00 PM   #54
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I am at 7500 miles and still no oil change light, maybe its broke lol. I personally would never go even 7500 miles let alone 10K but I still like to waste money on synthetic cause it makes me feel warm and fuzzy.
Makes me feel like I'm driving a Ferrari...



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Old 04-20-2013, 06:00 PM   #55
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I am at 7500 miles and still no oil change light, maybe its broke lol. I personally would never go even 7500 miles let alone 10K but I still like to waste money on synthetic cause it makes me feel warm and fuzzy.
I would be in a panic, but that is my nature.
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Old 04-20-2013, 08:47 PM   #56
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I am at 7500 miles and still no oil change light, maybe its broke lol. I personally would never go even 7500 miles let alone 10K but I still like to waste money on synthetic cause it makes me feel warm and fuzzy.
Turned 7300 today, no oil change light, did my 2nd, first at 2000, now will keep on 5k change interval wix filter and mobile 1 synthetic. Must say am thourghly impressed that almost a full 6 quarts came out.
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Old 04-20-2013, 11:19 PM   #57
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Engines are "Broken In" at the factory. The reason behind the "drive a certain way until bla bla miles", is to get one familliar with the new vehicle they are now in, its handling, and braking, etc. If left to the general public to "break in" a new engine.....a truely NEW engine, Most engines wouldnt last longer than 10k miles. Cross hatching on the cylinder walls, and most other break in surfaces are performed before the engine is installed in the vehicle. Most manufactures use an pnuemtaic or electric motor to spin the engine for a predetermined amout of time, to fully remove cross hatching, then run it under a certain load, and using fuel to seat rings and such. This being said, The oil comming from the factory is not a special "break In" oil, and can be chaged at the recomended change interval without issue.

Bottom line is:
Change when you feel comfortable, but dont go past recomended intervals, and use whatever oil makes your boat float. Tread lightly, and if you have an erection longer than 4 hours, have sudden blindness, or death, call a doctor immediately.
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:17 PM   #58
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Bottom line is:
Change when you feel comfortable, but dont go past recomended intervals, and use whatever oil makes your boat float. Tread lightly, and if you have an erection longer than 4 hours, have sudden blindness, or death, call a doctor immediately.
ha....my sentiments exactly here's what I've done.

oil change @ 350 miles Castrol syntec 5-30 with new Wix filter.
oil change @ 588 miles. Amsoil signature 5-30 with new Wix filter.
oil change @ 3818 miles. Amsoil signature 5-30 with new Wix filter

890 miles. Changed 6 speed tranny oil. 2 qts Mopar MS 9224

890 miles. Changed transfer case aft. 2+qts Amsoil multi vehicle synthetic

1950 miles Detroit Truetrac installed.

2400 install new differential cover. Fill with 2.5 quarts Castrol 85-140
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:17 PM   #59
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I have a 1995 Tahoe 2-door with 223,000 miles on it. At about 160,000 I had the heads off, dealing with a testy aftermarket radiator vendor. There was no piston ring step in any cylinder, and there was no valve stem groove on any rocker arm, at all. You could not feel an edge with your finger, nail or scribe. I have always, and will always run Mobile 1 Synthetic in any engine I own.
Isn't Mobil 1 synth actually not a true synthetic? I remember reading something about this a few years ago.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:18 PM   #60
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Isn't Mobil 1 synth actually not a true synthetic? I remember reading something about this a few years ago.
People began claiming its not a "Full" synthetic, as it starts with a dyno base. People fail to realize that most all synthetics start with a dyno base oil. Most all "semi-synthetics" are a "Group III oil, while Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Motul, etc. are Group IV, and very few are a Group V:

Group III - comes from crude oil
Group IV - polyalphaolefin comes from crude oil
Group V - ester can come from crude oil and plants.

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