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Old 04-21-2013, 09:20 PM   #61
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to add: Goups I thru III are made in refinerys, while Groups IV and V are made in chemical plants.

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Old 04-25-2013, 11:12 AM   #62
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People began claiming its not a "Full" synthetic, as it starts with a dyno base. People fail to realize that most all synthetics start with a dyno base oil. Most all "semi-synthetics" are a "Group III oil, while Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Motul, etc. are Group IV, and very few are a Group V:

Group III - comes from crude oil
Group IV - polyalphaolefin comes from crude oil
Group V - ester can come from crude oil and plants.
Thanks for that info Chris. Not to start an oil war here but I was under the impression that Mobil 1 and Redline/Motul are not in the same category as far as oil goes.

Does that come from the misconception that Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic? I think on Bobistheoilguy Mobil 1 is still not as highly rated as some of the others like Pennzoil and Castrol European Formula.

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Old 04-25-2013, 01:08 PM   #63
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Also, have guys been running 5w20 or 5w30? Seems to be mixed opinions on the oil weight.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:16 PM   #64
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Thanks for that info Chris. Not to start an oil war here but I was under the impression that Mobil 1 and Redline/Motul are not in the same category as far as oil goes.

Does that come from the misconception that Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic? I think on Bobistheoilguy Mobil 1 is still not as highly rated as some of the others like Pennzoil and Castrol European Formula.
Any oil Group IV and above (really only 2 groups, IV and V) are considered fully synthetics. Mobil has been riding their name for a long time, and not doing much in the way of advancements in their oil lines. Comming out with higher milage oils (simply by adding more detergents), has been the only big change for them. Meanwhile, Penzoil, and others, have come along way in the engineering of their oils. Mobil 1 might not be on par with some of the newer oils, but you can rest comfortably if using it, and following the manufactures change guidelines.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:21 PM   #65
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If you are going to be changing your oil every 800 miles (I know you wont really do this) you might be interested in this little device. I change mine every 5000 miles (crazy right?) and this is very handy. I have a hose that plugs on the end and everything goes straight into an old oil container.
I've seen these before and I love the idea. That being said I can easily see this getting hit when I come down on a rock and snapping off.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:27 PM   #66
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I've seen these before and I love the idea. That being said I can easily see this getting hit when I come down on a rock and snapping off.
Bingo! After seeing one of those being introduced to a rock, and having to drive back to town to get more oil, and drian plug, along with cleaning up the mess, I wont ever run one.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:58 PM   #67
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Chrysler tech said to remove cap first, plug second, to completely drain.
I'm jake wit dat!
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:17 AM   #68
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Chrysler tech said to remove cap first, plug second, to completely drain.
I'm jake wit dat!
I would be inclined to do it the opposite way so that a gush of oil wouldn't come rushing out on you when you first remove the plug.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:42 AM   #69
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I would be inclined to do it the opposite way so that a gush of oil wouldn't come rushing out on you when you first remove the plug.
X2
I've always opened the cap second in order to avoid a mess.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:37 AM   #70
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to add: Goups I thru III are made in refinerys, while Groups IV and V are made in chemical plants.
Fischer-Tropsch process.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:18 AM   #71
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I changed mine at 3500 miles and will change again at 6500 and then switch to synthetic possibly at 10K. Although I don't know if its necessary to run synthetic.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:06 AM   #72
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If you change the oil before the oil monitor light turns on do you still need to reset it?
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:36 AM   #73
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If you change the oil before the oil monitor light turns on do you still need to reset it?
Yes.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:51 PM   #74
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Fischer-Tropsch process.
GTL is the future. Huge potential here to use natural gas to provide lubricants and fuel.
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:19 PM   #75
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Yes.
Is there a chime to indicate that you have reset the oil process?
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:59 PM   #76
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Although I don't know if its necessary to run synthetic.
I asked my dealer about that. Answer was "personal preference". Pay twice as much, change half as often. Either way, same gig.
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:29 PM   #77
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Change your oil on a new engine at 500 miles, then 2000 miles and then 5000 miles thereafter.
This will clean up your engines oil galleys and help to create longevity down the road!
There is nothing special about the oil that the factory installs, that one is just a myth!
Oil does stay in your filter canister when your engine is turned off, just another myth that it doesn't. Air does not get to it so it will be retained in the canister.
It doesn't matter Synthetic, conventional, brand, weight, just change it!
That sounds like some very good advice !
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Old 04-30-2013, 07:44 PM   #78
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That sounds like some very good advice !
Thank you!
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:17 PM   #79
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Did my first oil change at 4k and found some small metal flakes for my 13. I wish I had changed it sooner but I'm not worried. Now if I can stay off the throttle then just maybe I can do better than 13-15 mpg. She does about 16.7 when I drive like I should. Lately I've been having too much fun if there is such a thing. Love my engine.
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Old 04-30-2013, 08:56 PM   #80
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Unless you have an extremely rare Jeep, oil will drain out of the filter canister as soon as the engine is shutoff and oil pressure goes to zero.



Old Dogger, Welcome Back!
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:31 PM   #81
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I just changed mine for the first time today, made a mess, that 5w-20 is like water.

I went with Mobil 1 5w-30, but it only took 5 quarts. I always check the line after 5 to see where I'm at and it was full. I started it up and checked after a few minutes, still full. I let the old oil drain out for almost an hour.

Is there a trick to this? Or should I just pour in the last quart?
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:34 PM   #82
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Did you change the filter to?
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:11 PM   #83
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Yes, of course
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:05 PM   #84
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I just changed mine for the first time today, made a mess, that 5w-20 is like water.

I went with Mobil 1 5w-30, but it only took 5 quarts. I always check the line after 5 to see where I'm at and it was full. I started it up and checked after a few minutes, still full. I let the old oil drain out for almost an hour.

Is there a trick to this? Or should I just pour in the last quart?
Mine is at the top of the hash marks on the stick at 6 quarts... I'm thinking you're a quart low, but can't explain the dipstick reading! No trick when I did it... I've owned a lot of cars and trucks and the JK is the easiest oil change I've ever done. Its fantastic.
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:45 PM   #85
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Did you ever check your oil level, before changing it? If yes, did it show overfull? You may have a dipstick issue???
All that I did was pulled the filter first and removed the oil filler cap. Then I drained the oil, same as you until no more came out. Next installed the drain plug, next the new oil filter carter age and added 6 quarts of oil. I ran it and checked for leaks.
The following morning with engine cold, I checked the level. Mine was just like TOKs, right at the top of the hash marks. I don't normally check my oil level after changing it, but since there has been some controversy over quantity need, that drove me to check it.

It sounds like either for some reason, your engine is retaining a quart of oil when draining, but this is highly unlikely so the only other answer is a dipstick, or dipstick tube calibration issue. I WOULD TALK TO MY DEALERS SERVICE DEPATMENT ABOUT IT. I'm not saying that you engine is a quart low on oil, but if it is, then it's not a good idea to be running it ongoing a quart low on oil. One quart low won't starve your engine for oil, but it will increase the oil temperature some, and since your engine is designed to operate/run with six (6) quarts, then that is what is needed.
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:03 PM   #86
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I've checked it before and it was always full. I pulled the filter and fill cap as well just in case there was any kind of vacuum holding oil in and let it drain for almost an hour so I doubt it's holding a full quart. I'll check it again before I drive it and probably ask the dealership about it the next time I'm over that way.
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:12 PM   #87
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Just looking at your profile pic... Is that where you changed the oil? Looks like you're on a hill and I'm wondering if some oil stayed in the pan.

I'm in a similar situation and have to point my pan drain downhill.
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:29 PM   #88
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I changed the oil on flat ground
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Old 05-13-2013, 05:43 PM   #89
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As far as does the filter hold oil at shut off, I say no. After installing an oil pressure/temp gauge in my 3.6 it takes at least two seconds before pressure registers. If there were no drain back pressure should register almost instantly.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:29 PM   #90
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I can end this debate, my Corvette uses only Mobile 1 and a Mobile 1 filter. It comes from the factory like that. Why? Because all elite car people know that the best racing engines and high performance motors use synthetic. That's what 60+ years of making the fastest American sports car teaches you.

Although I'm not saying regular oil changes with regular oil won't make your engine last a really long time, but I beat the crap out of my motors and it's Mobile 1 only for me. Doing mine at 500 for the record.

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