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Old 02-11-2012, 08:15 PM   #1
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Freedom Top Removal / Installation

Hey all,

I understand that correct removal/installation of the Freedom Top panels is important for ensuring that the seals align properly. Between the Jeep videos, the Jeep owners manual, the Jeep user guide, and the Jeep "quick guide" that came in the glove box of my hard top, each of these instructions gives a different sequence for the removal/installation steps. One says to unscrew the two bolts first, another says to undo the "L" latches first, the other says to remove the windshield latches first, etc. etc...

Does the sequence of steps really matter? I get some water leaks into the interior, and am just trying to exhaust all possibility of user error. Some folks on the forum say that the sequence of re-installation is very important. Newb here, please forgive the newbness.

What are the steps that you take in removing, and re-installing your Freedom Tops?

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Old 02-11-2012, 08:18 PM   #2
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just make sure that the lage thumb screws are not over tight,,, just sung works best,,

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Old 02-11-2012, 08:20 PM   #3
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I don't know if this helps but the salesman told me to unscrew first and screw in last when taking off and installing the freedom top.
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:20 PM   #4
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Careful application of the standard owner's manual method has been emphasized by most posters.

But, schirmyver posted an alternate method recommended to him that would certainly be worth a try. I'm going to try it out myself:

Quote:
Originally Posted by schirmyver View Post
I was just in the dealer this week getting a new hard top as mine was cracked from the factory, so I was talking to one of the salesmen who I knew owned a JKU. I asked about leaks and he acknowledged that he had talked to a few owners that had problems. He gave me the following advice.

When taking the front freedom panels off always start at the rear. Thumb screws first, rear latches then move forward unlocking the front windshield latches last.

When putting the tops on, carefully align the panels making sure none of the weather seals are folded over. Then again start from the rear, tightening the thumb screws until the rear of the panels are flush with the rear top. Then move forward with the latches again finishing with the two windshield latches.

...
And:

Quote:
Originally Posted by schirmyver View Post
I know that is [not] what the owners manual states but it sure seated better going back to front. If you watch the panel as you are installing it, you can watch the rear of the panel lift off the rubber seal as you latch the front. Sure it gets pulled back down as you latch the rest and tighten the screws, but if you do the screws first you can insure that seal is tight. This looks to be the most vulnerable area to me, so anything to make sure that seal is tight sounds like good advice.

Well to each their own, so for those having issues maybe try this.
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:28 PM   #5
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Will give it a try. Thanks all
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:35 PM   #6
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I neglected to mention cleaning and treating all your seals with 303 Aerospace Protectant. 'Bout everyone thinks it helps.
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by up hill bill
i neglected to mention cleaning and treating all your seals with 303 aerospace protectant. 'bout everyone thinks it helps.
x1000 :d
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:40 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I neglected to mention cleaning and treating all your seals with 303 Aerospace Protectant. 'Bout everyone thinks it helps.
Just cleaned them and applied silicone lube. How's that compare to 303?
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:43 PM   #9
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Just cleaned them and applied silicone lube. How's that compare to 303?
I don't know. I think I recall some people suggesting that some kinds of silicon lubes can be bad for rubber... But, I'm in over my head here... hopefully somebody will respond.... somebody?
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
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I don't know. I think I recall some people suggesting that some kinds of silicon lubes can be bad for rubber... But, I'm in over my head here... hopefully somebody will respond.... somebody?
(The stuff I got says it's safe on rubber)
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:56 PM   #11
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(The stuff I got says it's safe on rubber)
Yep, Wikipedia says "Silicone grease is commonly used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts..." So you're good. Told ya' I was in over my head!
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Old 02-12-2012, 04:58 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I don't know. I think I recall some people suggesting that some kinds of silicon lubes can be bad for rubber... But, I'm in over my head here... hopefully somebody will respond.... somebody?
I just ordered some Gummi Pflege. It's supposed to be great for maintaining seals.

Anyone else have experience with it?
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:01 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slpnbyu

I just ordered some Gummi Pflege along with some 303. This stuff is supposed to be great for keeping seals like new: Amazon.com: einszett 914806 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz: Automotive

Anyone else have experience with it?
Good ratings I see.

Let us know.

It's just easy after applying the 303 to continue on and wipe all the seals down.
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill View Post
Careful application of the standard owner's manual method has been emphasized by most posters.

But, schirmyver posted an alternate method recommended to him that would certainly be worth a try. I'm going to try it out myself:



And:
I'm going to have to disagree with these directions Bill. The majority of the leak problems have to do with the front portion of the tops (front middle above rearview mirror and front pass. side corner), that's why people recommend that the rear screw fasteners are tighten last and not to tight, in some cases people have avoided the screws entirely. The belief is that the front clamps should be the area applying the most amount of pressure to properly seal the tops. if you overly tighten the rear screw they will apply more pressure to the rear of the panels and actually raise the front slightly, enough for water to work into the seals.

When I first got my Jeep, I agonized over the the freedom top placement after I had to remove the hard top to take out the soft top. I obsessed with the rear part of the panels because I had a portion of the seal that wasn't comprising properly. I realized that the hard top itself had to be shifted back a hair for the freedom tops to align properly. The good part is that it gave me an opportunity to really examine how the tops line up and what happens during each latch compression. In conclusion, I came up with these steps, which seems to have worked very well for me (no leaks, knock on wood).

1. Position pass. side panel. Make sure its shifted as far forward as the guide pin will allow
2. secure front visor clamp
3. secure rear corner latch
4. position driver's side panel, make sure the front is lined up with the pass. side.
5. secure visor clamp
6. secure rear corner latch
7. secure front middle latch
8. secure rear middle latch
9. screw in pass. side fastener, do not tighten
10. screw in driver's side fastener, do not tighten
11. alternate the tightening of the fastener's until they are slightly snug. ( you'll realize that one side loosens as you tighten the other so alternating will ensure that the rear part of the panels come down evenly).
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I'm going to have to disagree with these directions Bill.
...

1. Position pass. side panel. Make sure its shifted as far forward as the guide pin will allow
2. secure front visor clamp
3. secure rear corner latch
4. position driver's side panel, make sure the front is lined up with the pass. side.
5. secure visor clamp
6. secure rear corner latch
7. secure front middle latch
8. secure rear middle latch
9. screw in pass. side fastener, do not tighten
10. screw in driver's side fastener, do not tighten
11. alternate the tightening of the fastener's until they are slightly snug. ( you'll realize that one side loosens as you tighten the other so alternating will ensure that the rear part of the panels come down evenly).
Whatever works.

I have followed the Owner's Manual pretty closely, except saving the final rear knob tightening for last, almost like you recommend. I haven't tried schirmyver's method yet, and can't recommend it one way or the other. I was just passing it along as a possible method to try. I'm going to look at it myself and see how it does.

Thanks for passing your method on, too!
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:42 PM   #16
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Thanks for passing your method on, too!
x2
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Old 02-12-2012, 05:49 PM   #17
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This is from the last page of a 4p pdf I seen...maybe it was on here.

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Old 02-12-2012, 06:04 PM   #18
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The TSB on JK leak location and repair details the following method as necessary to assure proper a seal:

"To ensure that the panels are installed correctly perform the following steps in order. When installing each Freedom Top panel, always close the windshield latch first . [in bold in TSB]
a. With both panels removed, carefully install the right side panel onto the hard top.
b. Make sure the sun visor is folded down and out of the way.
c. Latch the right header panel latch located at the top of the windshield.
d. Turn the right side panel rear L-shaped lock (located above the shoulder belt
anchorage) so that it fully engages the hard top.
e. Turn the right side panel rear fastener knob (located on the overhead speaker bar
assembly) clockwise until it is tight.
f. Carefully install the left side panel onto the hard top.
g. Make sure the sun visor is folded down and out of the way.
h. Latch the left header panel latch located at the top of the windshield.
i. Turn the left side panel rear L-shaped lock (located above the shoulder belt
anchorage) so that it full engages the hard top.
j. Turn the left side panel rear fastener knob (located on the overhead speaker bar
assembly) clockwise until it is tight.
k. Turn both center L-shaped locks (2) so that they fully engage the right side panel."

Note that this is a little different from the Owner's Manual method in that the 2 center "L" locks are fastened last.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:16 PM   #19
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Note that this is a little different from the Owner's Manual method in that the center "L" locks are fastened last.
Interesting... thanks for digging that up.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Up Hill Bill View Post
The TSB on JK leak location and repair details the following method as necessary to assure proper a seal:

"To ensure that the panels are installed correctly perform the following steps in order. When installing each Freedom Top panel, always close the windshield latch first . [in bold in TSB]
a. With both panels removed, carefully install the right side panel onto the hard top.
b. Make sure the sun visor is folded down and out of the way.
c. Latch the right header panel latch located at the top of the windshield.
d. Turn the right side panel rear L-shaped lock (located above the shoulder belt
anchorage) so that it fully engages the hard top.
e. Turn the right side panel rear fastener knob (located on the overhead speaker bar
assembly) clockwise until it is tight.
f. Carefully install the left side panel onto the hard top.
g. Make sure the sun visor is folded down and out of the way.
h. Latch the left header panel latch located at the top of the windshield.
i. Turn the left side panel rear L-shaped lock (located above the shoulder belt
anchorage) so that it full engages the hard top.
j. Turn the left side panel rear fastener knob (located on the overhead speaker bar
assembly) clockwise until it is tight.
k. Turn both center L-shaped locks (2) so that they fully engage the right side panel."

Note that this is a little different from the Owner's Manual method in that the 2 center "L" locks are fastened last.
Well, I cleaned and lubed all seals with silicon, and then followed these instructions to a T. Got a little rain today, and the leak is actually a little worse than it was before. What a kick in the a$$, huh?

I took it to the dealer (still under warranty) a few weeks ago and after running a hose over the top for over an hour they couldn't replicate the leak, so in a way I'm left to my own devices with this. The leak isn't necessarily bad (show me a good leak), but it's enough to soak the carpet after a good rain.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:07 PM   #21
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Well, I cleaned and lubed all seals with silicon, and then followed these instructions to a T. Got a little rain today, and the leak is actually a little worse than it was before. What a kick in the a$$, huh?

I took it to the dealer (still under warranty) a few weeks ago and after running a hose over the top for over an hour they couldn't replicate the leak, so in a way I'm left to my own devices with this. The leak isn't necessarily bad (show me a good leak), but it's enough to soak the carpet after a good rain.
I had the same happen to me. Leak was very minor at first. I took off the tops and cleaned the seals and replaced - and it was worse!

I have done it several more times now, being more careful and thorough each time. No leaks for a good while now!

Just try again. If three or four tries don't get it, then go to the dealer. There are lots of horror stories of dealers making it worse.....

I made a shortened "cheat sheet" on a 3x5 card to keep in the glove box, just as a reminder of the recommended installation method:

"Freedom Panel Installation

1. Install RIGHT panel:
2. Close windshield latch
3. Lock rear L-lock
4. Tighten rear screw knob

5. Install LEFT panel:
6. Close windshield latch
7. Lock rear L-lock
8. Tighten rear screw knob
9. Lock two center L-locks"
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:17 PM   #22
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Hey UHB what did you use to clean the seals. Ive been using 303, but only done it twice. I have a very small leak ( 1-2 oz) sneaking in now that I've taken the tops off a few times. I'd rather not let the dealer monkey with it since its definitely livable, but wasn't there initially.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:18 PM   #23
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Also saved your steps in my phone for next time thanks! always fumble for the manual when I take the tops off
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:25 PM   #24
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Just try again. If three or four tries don't get it, then go to the dealer. There are lots of horror stories of dealers making it worse....."
Will do. It's reassuring to know that you've beat the leak. For the time being a towel along the bottom of the door will be mandatory during bad weather.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:29 PM   #25
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Hey UHB what did you use to clean the seals. Ive been using 303, but only done it twice. I have a very small leak ( 1-2 oz) sneaking in now that I've taken the tops off a few times. I'd rather not let the dealer monkey with it since its definitely livable, but wasn't there initially.
I been using 303, too. I think it was hilldweller who has recommended using Simple Green, as it tends to slightly swell the seals and maybe provide a better seal.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:29 PM   #26
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Will do. It's reassuring to know that you've beat the leak. For the time being a towel along the bottom of the door will be mandatory during bad weather.
I do the same right now. Tuck the rag against the carpet
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:30 PM   #27
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I been using 303, too. I think it was hilldweller who has recommended using Simple Green, as it tends to slightly swell the seals and maybe provide a better seal.
I'll do it again tonight since it rained again and had some leakage. I think I over-tightened the rear screws last time.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:34 PM   #28
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Will do. It's reassuring to know that you've beat the leak.
For now, anyway. Forecast is for rain tomorrow, and I'm taking a long drive up the coast, so we'll see.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 View Post
For the time being a towel along the bottom of the door will be mandatory during bad weather.
I WILL be carrying my new, essential Jeep emergency item, a ShamWow, just in case.





Thanks Vince!
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:47 PM   #29
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I WILL be carrying my new, essential Jeep emergency item, a ShamWow, just in case.
Nice.

My emergency kit currently includes a sun hat, a leatherman tool, and a fifth of whiskey.
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Old 02-16-2012, 06:52 PM   #30
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^^^ Seems to me a lot of Jeepers, myself included, appreciate a we nip o' whiskey now and again.... Probably because there's nothing more American than Jeeps and Bourbon!

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