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Old 06-13-2013, 06:02 PM   #1
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Front seat removal

I'm trying to remove the front passenger seat to Bedline and I can't get the bolts out. I've used PB blaster and soaked the bolts. Any ideas? I've got a pipe to slide over the socket wrench for leverage and that still doesn't help

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Old 06-13-2013, 06:38 PM   #2
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Any ideas?

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Old 06-13-2013, 06:43 PM   #3
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Get an impact on those suckers and they come right out.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:31 PM   #4
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Wonder what the seats are torqued at?
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:32 PM   #5
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I removed both seats yesterday as I installed leather. It took a consoderable amount of strength to remove the bolts but I managed to do so without anything but a long socket wrench. You could try a breaker bar?
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:46 PM   #6
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Yup, those bolts are tough. P90X and a cheater bar. They will be tough for the first 2 or 3 turns then they'll loosen up
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:53 PM   #7
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The bolts have a thread locking chemical on them so the first time out will take more effort to get them loose.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:57 PM   #8
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Thanks guys. Guess ill head down to lowes tomorrow and get an impact wrench. Any idea what they are torqued at so I know the cheapest impact that will still do the job?
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Thanks guys. Guess ill head down to lowes tomorrow and get an impact wrench. Any idea what they are torqued at so I know the cheapest impact that will still do the job?
I'd try a bigger cheater bar first. It's not so much the torque but the thread lock they use. Unless you want an excuse to buy an impact "gun", a impact wrench won't help you.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:16 PM   #10
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Front seat mounting bolts are only torqued to 45 ft. lbs. It's the thread locking compound that makes breaking loose and the first half dozen rotations tough! I used a 30" cheater pipe on a 3/8" drive to break mine loose. Tough, but doable...
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:19 PM   #11
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Two foot breaker bar with 1/2" drive did it for me, but re-torquing to 45 ft lbs as UHB says seemed a little light. If I hit something hard I want to be damn sure that seat's staying anchored to the tub.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:22 PM   #12
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I assume Jeep knows more about the proper torque than I do:

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Jeep JK Wrangler Torque Settings

I just look 'em up. If you want to make 'em up... more power to ya"
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:23 PM   #13
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No, I agree with you and I trusted to that very page - we all know that over-torquing is just as bad as under-torquing. It just seems a little light, is all.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:25 PM   #14
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I managed to get mine off with a 12in long wrench. It wasnt fun. lots of thread locker on those suckers.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:27 PM   #15
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I think, because the bolts are sooooo long (!) and then with the thread locker, they aren't going to back off or pull out! They look very over-engineered! But, then, I've read about jeepers snapping the heads off seat bolts trying to get them out. Ouch!
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I managed to get mine off with a 12in long wrench. It wasnt fun. lots of thread locker on those suckers.
I suggest you try entering some arm wrestling contests! My money's on you...
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:18 PM   #17
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Every Jeeper should own an electric impact gun!
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:40 AM   #18
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I started to loosen one of the bolts in the front of the seat and it started to make a horrific noise like it was being stripped. I stopped and retightened the bolt and it seemed ok. Anyone else encounter a loud, grinding type noise when loosening these bolts? Had to use a cheater bar to loosen.

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