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Old 07-15-2010, 03:25 PM   #1
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fully synthetic oil

is any one using a fully synthetic oil in their jeep... can u see an advantge to using a synthetic oil?

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Old 07-15-2010, 03:32 PM   #2
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I use synthetic in the trans and diffs, shifts better.

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Old 07-15-2010, 04:59 PM   #3
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I've got synthetic in everything but my transmission, and that will change with my first flush.

the advantage I see is I don't have to change nearly as often. I'm lazy like that
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Old 07-15-2010, 05:41 PM   #4
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I prefer synthetic and use Mobil-1 in the JK. Winter is 0w-20 and summer 5w-20.
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Old 07-15-2010, 08:43 PM   #5
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I just went to fully synthetic yesterday, no more tapping on startups. I also noticed a bit more on the fuel economy.
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Old 07-16-2010, 10:30 AM   #6
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use Mobil 1 since 800 miles. Only have 6400 miles now on my 2010 2dr sahara. Will change other fluids to syn as well when its time. Like to see posts of people with 150000 miles plus on our engine and hear what they did to keep things reliable.
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Old 07-16-2010, 10:42 AM   #7
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use Mobil 1 since 800 miles. Only have 6400 miles now on my 2010 2dr sahara. Will change other fluids to syn as well when its time. Like to see posts of people with 150000 miles plus on our engine and hear what they did to keep things reliable.
all you need to do is change regularly. if you run cheap Dino oil, do it at 3,000.

the 3.8 with some TLC and regular changes and maintainence will last to 300,000 miles
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Old 07-17-2010, 03:26 PM   #8
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evryone keeps talkin bout moble 1 synthetic... r there ne other suggestions just wonderin wat else is out there thats been proven to be worth the money...thanks for all the advise
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Old 07-17-2010, 03:32 PM   #9
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I use Mobile 1 also mainly because I always have. I change every 5000 miles where as I would change at 3000 with dino oil. Royal Purple is another good one that some swear by. Seriously I doubt there is much difference. There are tests out there to look at and compare.

Mobile 1 comes in new Corvettes, SRT Chargers/Challengers/Jeep so if it`s good enough for them it should be good enough for my Jeep I reckon.
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Old 07-17-2010, 03:53 PM   #10
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I used Penzoil syn for 100,000. It did it's job and did it well. I switched to Mobile 1 after I read some tech stuff on it and it seems to run a little better/smoother than Penzoil. Plus, it is only $.35 or so more a liter. I'm currently using Royal Purple. Pep Boys had an awesome deal which included a free RP filter. I haven't noticed any major differences between RP and M1. RP, when not on sale, is rather pricey...so, I'll more than likely go back to Mobile 1. Just my $.02.
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Old 07-18-2010, 11:27 AM   #11
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i run castrol edge synthetic in my wifes rubi and my toyota 4runner and have never had any issues. i use a good filter and change every 5000 miles.
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Old 07-18-2010, 07:08 PM   #12
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all you need to do is change regularly. if you run cheap Dino oil, do it at 3,000.
BS!!!!!

If you run dino oil change it at the factory recommended intervals. Changing sooner doesn't help a thing. 3000 mile changes was recommended back in the 50s and 60s back when neither engine parts nor oil were the quality they are today.
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Old 07-18-2010, 10:48 PM   #13
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if you want to put $2 a quart walmart oil into a 10,000 dollar engine, slam the RPM's, wheel the sh*t out of it and beat on it 6,000 miles be my guest.

I'll be here to tell you how to change the cam when it gets f'ed up

this is the mistake folks keep making with engine oil on these forums. 6,000 is recommended for STREET USE. EASY MILES. if you offroad and beat the f*ck out of things you better change it early. that oil is $2 for a reason, and I'm not getting into the dumb oil debate that happens every week here.

just saying, you don't see high performance vehicles, dragsters, tow trucks, or anything running cheap sh*t for 6,000 miles you go offroad that engine and trans get a work out. but by all means...do it. I'm out of warranty. I'm not replacing cams and heads because I'm a cheap a** running garbage oil.
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Old 07-19-2010, 06:22 AM   #14
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Rather than throwing asterisks around, just take and submit samples of your used oil for mass spec analysis at a certified lab. It's easy, relatively cheap, and yields enlightening results.
Really.

You'd all be surprised how well dino oil does these days. I especially like Chevron oil.
I know people who used Shell oil in their motorcycles for over 200,000 with change intervals closer to 15,000 miles; they submitted their oil for analysis and it still had decent additives and wasn't fouled to the point of needing to be replaced.
People can speculate, warn, point a finger. But, despite what your buddy-the-gearhead says, you can't "smell" bad oil or tell by looking at it (unless its horribly fouled, of course).

I use synthetic oil because I know it holds itself together better under severe conditions. But don't bash the dino; it would work fine for 99.9% of us and probably for 10,000 miles.
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Old 07-19-2010, 11:18 AM   #15
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I use Shell Rotella in the Blue Jug. Change every 6 month reguardless of mileage. I now have 132000 on my 02 Wrangler Sport 4.0L no problems. My previous 97 Jeep Cherokee on the same oil chance interval had 280000 when I sold it to my son. He totaled it.
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:03 PM   #16
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shell is good Dino oil. as is Mobil, Valvoline, etc. but then you have Auto-Zone, Walmart brand bulk oils. you have no idea what that is. you guys are under the impression I'm knocking all Dino oil. I'm not. I specifically said cheap, meaning anything you'd use to start a campfire.

you guys are so knick-knacky about oil on these forums. never in my life have I argued about oil life

I run Mobil-1 synthetic. when it gets dirty, smells burnt, or loses that feel it has I change it. sometimes it's at 5,000, others it's 9,000. it varies. I've got 3,000 on this oil in my jeep right now, and it's still clear. I haven't been off-road too much since this change. it's not static. I don't drive like you, or this guy, or whoever. a 3,000 mile drive at 65mph isn't going to look like the oil of 3,000 miles offroad, or towing, or stop and go traffic, or whatever.

that's why 3,000 is STILL the rule of thumb. you're pretty safe running anything to that mark, no matter conditions. technology and the modern engine have 0 to do with it. it's still metal on metal movement, high temps, and explosions. combustion engines are combustion engines.
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:12 PM   #17
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In all of this discussion, one thing wasn't covered: is there a connection between synthetics and engines sludging up? Also, if it starts sludging, is there a change in the oil that I can smell, or does the sludge go to the bottom of the pan where dipstick can't touch it?
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:46 PM   #18
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I started my jeep on Mobile 1 at 100,000 and a 98 Nissan Altima I drug outta the junk yard for a daily driver with 143,000 using Mobil1. So far so good.
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Old 07-20-2010, 05:20 AM   #19
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In all of this discussion, one thing wasn't covered: is there a connection between synthetics and engines sludging up? Also, if it starts sludging, is there a change in the oil that I can smell, or does the sludge go to the bottom of the pan where dipstick can't touch it?
I was a fleet manager until the end of 2000 (Crown Vics); I ran the cars routinely to 400,000 miles before they were turned to pasture.
With all those cars, all those miles, all that professional abuse, I had only one car "sludge up" and that was one that the owner insisted we run straight 30-weight oil in. The sludge happened very suddenly and gummed-up all at once; both the bottom and top ends grenaded very quickly after that.

If you use any synthetic or any quality 0w or 5w-20 oil, have a functioning cooling and air filtration system, and change the oil regularly, this sort of thing is very very unlikely to happen.
I ran 12K change intervals with the Crown Vics and dino oil, whatever was on sale at Sam's Club (usually Valvolene or Penzoil).
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:20 AM   #20
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AMSOIL, Full synthetics in everything we own! From are Diesels to Tractors to lawnmowers. And all my Jeeps
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:20 AM   #21
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I currently have almost 200,000 trouble free miles on my Cherokee using all Amsoil synthetics. I have been extremely pleased. They have been mostly hard miles-trailer towing, off roading, short trips. As soon as my new JK is broken in, which for me is 2,000-3,000 miles, I will be changing all the fluids to Amsoil.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:14 AM   #22
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I currently have almost 200,000 trouble free miles on my Cherokee using all Amsoil synthetics. I have been extremely pleased. They have been mostly hard miles-trailer towing, off roading, short trips. As soon as my new JK is broken in, which for me is 2,000-3,000 miles, I will be changing all the fluids to Amsoil.
how do you drain other liquids
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:23 AM   #23
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If you are not mechanically inclined find a shop that will let you watch how to do this. You axels have drains plugs on bottom and your transfer case does to. For as the transmission you will have to do a flush to get full AMSOIL through the Torque converter and I would drop the pan before a replace the filter. My 2010 Rubicon is ready now with 2500 miles on her.
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Old 07-20-2010, 08:46 AM   #24
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To drain the axle/diff oil, take a 3/8" extension (3" or bigger) and stick it in the hole (giggity!) on the right-hand side of the diff. Drain oil into pan. Re-fill. Yee haw

As for advantages of synthetic oil, I seem to remember seeing dozens of other posts on this SAME topic! Once again, I say SEARCH!!!
Then, see what I said there. I got all scientific- it was pretty awesome Mark W.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:14 PM   #25
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(3" or bigger) and stick it in the hole (giggity!)
Mark W.
I see what you did there, Duke.

I'd love to see the Amsoil lab sometime and find out what sort of GC/mass-spec they use. I've used their products as well but can't help but wonder what's in their Devil's brew.
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:54 PM   #26
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For those DIY'ers, do you save all the receipts to help the resell value? Or, are you not concerned with that?
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:09 PM   #27
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:29 PM   #28
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For those DIY'ers, do you save all the receipts to help the resell value? Or, are you not concerned with that?
I keep a log of everything I do.
If I were buying a vehicle, it's the sort of thing I'd be looking for.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:30 PM   #29
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For those DIY'ers, do you save all the receipts to help the resell value? Or, are you not concerned with that?
I have every receipt for every oil change, diff. fluid etc. and all the receipts for any parts I've added.(can't hurt)
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:15 AM   #30
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My Father-In-Law gave me a 1989 Suburban in 2001. He uses nothing but Mobil1 synth. The truck had 172,XXX on it when he gave it to me. I continued with Mobil1 and used it as my daily driver. When I sold it, (actually got a grand for it..and there wasn't a fender on that thing that wasn't dented bad...) it had just over 215k on it. I changed the oil every 10k and used a Mobil1 filter. That engine was all original...... So I am a believer, and use it in both my JK and the Wife's Mustang.

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