Didn't see anyone mention the Stahlbus drain valve here. I've seen plenty of Fumoto talk.
I like the quick drain option, however, the Fumoto extending out as far as it looks concerns me. In addition to the lever being too convenient. Probably a little paranoia, but I can't help but think some road debris knocking it off, or someone maliciously turning the valve, or me just forgetting to move it back.
The Stahlbus seems to have a better compromise in that you need the adapter to make the oil come out and it has a cap to keep it clean. It also looks like it won't extend out as far as the Fumoto.
Anyone got close up photos of the Fumoto installed?
Also, I'd love to hear from someone who has the Stahlbus. I'm tempted to order one just to try it out since all the things about the Fumoto that make me uncomfortable are solved with the Stahlbus.
I have a Fumoto in all my vehicles, but I won't put one in my new Jeep until I have a skidplate to protect it. Without a skidplate, you're going to lose your oil at some point, if you do any serious off roading.
I like the Stahlbus so much better! I've known about the Fumoto for many years, but was always hesitant because of above mentioned potential incidents. This is the first time I've ever seen a high quality alternative. A similar product is the Fram Sure Drain, but I have read too many stories of them leaking, so obviously I wasn't going there. Thank you for bringing this to our attention! :thumb:
I love Fumoto valves and you probably have a better chance on hitting the lotto than having the valve open by debris. If you get the shorty one without the drain nipple, it is very compact and probably very similar to the Stahlbus. I'm with AlaskaErik waiting to get a pan plate before installing it. If I were to do MC, DD, or regular off-road (without crawling over stuff), then no worries. However, all it takes is to hit a high obstacle just right and bend the oil pan or rip the valve off of the threads. Same with the Stahlbus or anything that sticks past the structure of the oil pan.
Oh, and as far as being paranoid of someone maliciously crawling under your Jeep to flip the valve...well, it's probably easier to open the gas cap and pour sugar down it...if they really hated you. Or fill up a balloon with brake fluid and throw it at your Jeep from a distance....or, etc. etc.
Fumotos are awesome, but I think they need some protection in our Jeeps. I thought about removing the oil pan and welding some sort of metal jock strap to it, but I don't think it will hold up as well as an armor plate that covers the entire pan.
I have the F106S. It only sits about a 1/4 inch lower than the pan. The nipple is not the lowest point. The lever is at the highest point and I have the lever clip just to be on the safe side. Unless you are rock crawling or very unlucky I think it is pretty safe. That said I will still put a skid plate on day.
Been working with (& personally using) Fumoto valves for years, never had a problem with one yet..
The 'quick-disconnect' system the Stahlbus uses appears to be the same type used in quick-disconnect hydraulic fittings, which (in my experience) all leak eventually.
Fumoto is the bulletproof choice. The only complaint I've read and heard are that they tend to be really stiff when new. After a couple of oil changes, the lever will be easier to open.
Also, fumoto sells clips that hold the lever in place, and a cap for those using the N version.
I've a Fumoto on a new Jk... No skid plate and no problems thus far. It doesn't hang down below the level of the oil pan much at all. I'd wager that a hard hit (enough to take it out) would hurt the oil pan anyway so I wouldn't let the lack of armor be the reason not to get the valve. Get the valve your first oil change regardless... You will love it the first time you use it. Buying an oil pan skid plate is in my future but the valve was installed from the first oil change.
Regarding someone opening it up out of meanness... that's paranoid thinking. I don't worry about that nonsense...
Another side benefit I discovered is that the silicon hose that comes with the valve can be connected in a loop to the adapter for storage keeping it from leaking while storing.
I have Fumoto valves in the block drain plugs of my 6.0 Powerstroke diesel. I have to remove the starter to drain the passengers side which is time consuming. So far all is well with the Fumotos.
Another benefit the Stahlbus has over the Fumoto is the orientation of lever is pure luck based on how the oil pan was threaded.
My JK has a full Synergy skid system and the oil drain hole had to baffled with a deflector to keep the oil from filling the engine skid. The Fumoto looked like the solution, but when I installed it and torqued it down the lever ended up on the EXACT bottom...NATURALLY! I was concerned something could get up in the hole and break the lever, or worse, knock it loose. As a precaution I put a big vacuum cap over the end of the Fumoto and used a small hose clamp to keep it secure.
I sure know how to burn some money. I installed the Fumoto a few weeks ago and liked it until I was introduced to the Stahlbus. So I just received the Stahlbus and it really is nicely made. I'll live with the Fumoto until the first oil change with it and then try out the Stahlbus. I burned even more money by ordering the racing cap with it and I have no idea how to install it with a clip and wire which is probably overkill anyway. I should have just got the standard Stahlbus from the beginning but I didn't know it existed.
If you don't want the racing cap, I'd be willing to Paypal you a few bucks to send it my way. I didn't see the sale price you did or else I would have done that too. Totally unnecessary for the Jeep, but it would be nice to have so you would ensure that the cap didn't get lost.
I like the quick drain feature of both. I will not buy either one until I get my oil pan skid plate installed. I live in Iowa and I have seen what can happen to the underneath of a tractor, combine, atv or truck when driving in a corn or bean field. Corn stalks get wrapped around the smallest protrusion and they get wrapped tight. It is amazing how tight they hold on and how difficult it can be getting them off. To my way of thinking a rock climber with any protrusion and no skid plate is inviting trouble. I have seen bailing twine take out a bearing in a heart beat. I can only imagine what it would do to anything hanging below the oil pan. I paid a lot of money for 2015 Wrangler to blow an engine on a piece of twine or corn stalk.
Wow, I have never had so much fun changing oil! I love the Stahlbus valve. Made it so easy to change the oil and no mess at all. I've got to think that Jeep has got to be the easiest oil and filter change I've ever done.
It was about ~40˚ outside, but I was so excited to change the oil as soon as I got home...
What is the appeal of these things - is it that much easier or cleaner or what? Sorry i just see a lot of talk about worrying that one of these might fail and it just makes me think is it worth it? I am curious if people find them that much better than a few turns?
Absolutely, easier, faster, cleaner. I worried about the Fumoto failing for all the reasons listed in post #1. However, I can't see how the Stahlbus would fail. Well designed piece and it offers double outlet protection (protective cap and valve).
I've been using Fumoto Valves in every vehicle I've owned since the mid 1990's. I have never had so much as a drop leak from a single one in 10s of thousand of miles. Fumoto valves are used widely in Japan and approved for use by Toyota, Nissan, Honda, etc. and for industrial applications. If installed properly (not over or under torqued) the chances of one failing are slim to none. I can't see a reason to spend 2X as much for what is essentialy a Fram Sure Drain valve sold 15 years ago for $10 at Walmart (which I tried and did not like).
I can't see a reason to spend 2X as much for what is essentialy a Fram Sure Drain valve sold 15 years ago for $10 at Walmart (which I tried and did not like).
Ordered the Stahlbus for the $71.95 with the racing cap on my 2015 Wrangler. Went ahead and changed the oil and the install was straight forward. Torqued the the stahlbus to 18 lbs. using the stahlbus gasket provided. Went for a 40 mile drive with the wife and parked the jeep in my garage. Noticed some weeping around the drain plug and rechecked the torque. Got up on Sunday and had a great breakfast. Nasty day out side so I thought I would do a quick check. Low and behold there is a puddle of oil on my nice clean garage floor. I will install a different gasket Monday and see if this takes care of the issue. Disappointed after paying that type of money that I have to use some of my own parts. If that does not do it I will be shipping back for a refund.
Ordered the Stahlbus for the $71.95 with the racing cap on my 2015 Wrangler. Went ahead and changed the oil and the install was straight forward. Torqued the the stahlbus to 18 lbs. using the stahlbus gasket provided. Went for a 40 mile drive with the wife and parked the jeep in my garage. Noticed some weeping around the drain plug and rechecked the torque. Got up on Sunday and had a great breakfast. Nasty day out side so I thought I would do a quick check. Low and behold there is a puddle of oil on my nice clean garage floor. I will install a different gasket Monday and see if this takes care of the issue. Disappointed after paying that type of money that I have to use some of my own parts. If that does not do it I will be shipping back for a refund.
Get yourself some Permatex Hi-Temp thread sealer and put some on the threads of the plug and I promise it won't leak again. I use the stuff on any thread meant to seal and haven't had any leaks in years.
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