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Old 10-19-2012, 09:27 PM   #31
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Can someone post a pic of the bleeder valve location?

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Old 10-19-2012, 09:51 PM   #32
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Can someone post a pic of the bleeder valve location?
just open your hood grab the upper radiator hose and follow it all the way back to the front of the engine where it connects to the thermostat housing and it is the little button on top of the thermostat housing, it is impossible to miss. it has slots in the shape of + on top.

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Old 10-20-2012, 10:41 AM   #33
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Hey guys. Im new here to the forum but I work at a chrysler dealership as a tech and we have been seeing some of these issues. Flushing noise on start up or while driving, and a difference in heat temperature at the vents. Typically you will get a 30 degree drop from the passenger side vent to the driver side. The fix for these is replacing the heater core.
When the 3.6l engine was being built, chrysler says some casting sand did not get cleaned out of the engine and ends up in the heater core causing it to semi plug up. THe flushing noise you are hearing is from half the heater core being drained after engine has cooled down and when you start, the water pump makes enough pressure to slowly fill the heater core up.
Possible long term issues that can occur is overheating on a hot summer day. I havent seen one yet that was over heating but anything can happen. Also, if you do take our vehicle in and it comes out to be the heater core, dont get in a hurry for your vehicle back. The HVAC houseing is bolted to the dash so the entire dash has to be pulled out and placed on the bench in order to replace. So be looking at one to two day repair. Hope this helps!
Well this is depressing, and a lot more serious than a loose bleeder valve :-( Not arguing with you, but if it's the heater core, why is tightening the bleeder valve getting rid of the noise? Air in the system after the valve is tightened would still make the noise, I would think...
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:38 PM   #34
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Hey guys. Im new here to the forum but I work at a chrysler dealership as a tech and we have been seeing some of these issues. Flushing noise on start up or while driving, and a difference in heat temperature at the vents. Typically you will get a 30 degree drop from the passenger side vent to the driver side. The fix for these is replacing the heater core.
When the 3.6l engine was being built, chrysler says some casting sand did not get cleaned out of the engine and ends up in the heater core causing it to semi plug up. THe flushing noise you are hearing is from half the heater core being drained after engine has cooled down and when you start, the water pump makes enough pressure to slowly fill the heater core up.
Possible long term issues that can occur is overheating on a hot summer day. I havent seen one yet that was over heating but anything can happen. Also, if you do take our vehicle in and it comes out to be the heater core, dont get in a hurry for your vehicle back. The HVAC houseing is bolted to the dash so the entire dash has to be pulled out and placed on the bench in order to replace. So be looking at one to two day repair. Hope this helps!
Any idea what vin #'s or build dates this would affect?
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:29 PM   #35
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I've got a 2013, so this would have to be a wide date of engines with sand in them.
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Old 10-20-2012, 05:37 PM   #36
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I've got a 2013, so this would have to be a wide date of engines with sand in them.
me too I have an Aug 30 2012 build.
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Old 10-20-2012, 06:19 PM   #37
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Well this is depressing, and a lot more serious than a loose bleeder valve :-( Not arguing with you, but if it's the heater core, why is tightening the bleeder valve getting rid of the noise? Air in the system after the valve is tightened would still make the noise, I would think...
I havent seen a issue with a loose bleeder valve screw. Typically if the valve is loose you would get a coolant lose. The system can only hold so much and with a fully filled cooling system, if air has entered, the coolant has to go somewhere.
BUT there could be two issues causing the noise behind the dash. Bleeder screw and heater core. I guess I should have been more clear on my first post. If you have having a noise in the dash that sounds like water running AND a heat difference between the vents, then I would be pointing at the heater core. If you are only have the noise, then yes air has entered the system BUT coolant has also left the system. If you find your bleeder screw loose, make sure the coolant level is filled in the radiator after you tighten it.
I do not know anything on the build dates or vins that are having these issues. Only thing I know it has the 3.6l engine.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:08 PM   #38
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I agree if the bleeder screw is loose it would spew coolant....
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:41 PM   #39
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I have an appointment on Thursday to have it looked at, but I have 0 confidence in any of the dealers in my area, so we'll see what happens.
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Old 10-21-2012, 05:59 PM   #40
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Mine makes the "water" noise also. Just got it on Friday... I'll just keep an eye on the coolant level for now.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:25 PM   #41
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Well i washed my jeep in drive way today fired it up and i hear a wooshing noise from behind the dash so i gave it some gas a it went away for a second then returned at idle,i dont under stand how the bleeder screw can be loose and not loose any coolant,i dont smell coolant and my level is full.When the vehicle is warm the cooling system builds presure,if the bleeder is loose it should loose coolant.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:43 PM   #42
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Mine is a 12 JKUS automatic. I had the swooshing sound and they said mine was the oil cooler and replaced that. The noise went away but now I discovered the low heat problem when the weather turned cool. I took it back in and they flushed the system 4 times and said I had good heat. The next day...guess what? I did not. It's getting to be a hassle so I am going to test it a few days before taking it back in. The next time will be the 3 times in for this and 4 times and not fixed is a "lemon" in NC. I just hate to go thru the process that it requires.
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Old 10-21-2012, 06:55 PM   #43
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well mine blows incredibly hot air out of every vent. this morning I cranked it on high and directed the air out the dash vents and all 4 got so hot you could not hold your hand in front of them for too long. It was 32* on my way home from work so i was glad about that.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:23 PM   #44
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Mine is a 12 JKUS automatic. I had the swooshing sound and they said mine was the oil cooler and replaced that. The noise went away but now I discovered the low heat problem when the weather turned cool. I took it back in and they flushed the system 4 times and said I had good heat. The next day...guess what? I did not. It's getting to be a hassle so I am going to test it a few days before taking it back in. The next time will be the 3 times in for this and 4 times and not fixed is a "lemon" in NC. I just hate to go thru the process that it requires.

Now your issue does point towards the heater core. If you take it back in, try throwing this infomation at them and see what happens. In my experience, if a repair does not fix the issue, repeating the repair will not fix the issue and there is another problem in the system.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:25 PM   #45
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I have an appointment on Thursday to have it looked at, but I have 0 confidence in any of the dealers in my area, so we'll see what happens.
I see you are in southern ohio. I work at Shelbyville Chrysler in Shelbyville Ky. Kind of a distance drive but we have seen this issue and we know how to correct it if your dealership can not.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:58 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by jtbaker1911

I see you are in southern ohio. I work at Shelbyville Chrysler in Shelbyville Ky. Kind of a distance drive but we have seen this issue and we know how to correct it if your dealership can not.
Thanks, we'll see what Thursday brings.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:48 PM   #47
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They are finally replacing my heater core Thursday. I'n not holding out much hope of getting it back Thursday.

It took 3 trips to convince them that it needed parts and not just waving a clipboard over the hood. One thing we figured out is that if you just let it idle for a while it will stay hot but if you drive it, it cools off quickly.

If this is really a sand issue, why does it collect in the heater core and not the radiator? How do we know there isn't more sand that will clog another heater core? I am burning through 2000 warranty miles per month.
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:52 PM   #48
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........If this is really a sand issue, why does it collect in the heater core and not the radiator? How do we know there isn't more sand that will clog another heater core? I am burning through 2000 warranty miles per month.
Just a scientific wild ass guess, but coolant flows from top to bottom in the radiator. Gravity combined with the force from the water pump helps keep the sand moving.

Coolant flow thru the core is less forceful and the inlet and outlet are on the side. Easier for sand to settle out.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:53 PM   #49
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They are finally replacing my heater core Thursday. I'n not holding out much hope of getting it back Thursday.

It took 3 trips to convince them that it needed parts and not just waving a clipboard over the hood. One thing we figured out is that if you just let it idle for a while it will stay hot but if you drive it, it cools off quickly.

If this is really a sand issue, why does it collect in the heater core and not the radiator? How do we know there isn't more sand that will clog another heater core? I am burning through 2000 warranty miles per month.

I wouldnt plan on it being back thursday. It will usually take a good day to complete.
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:59 PM   #50
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They are finally replacing my heater core Thursday. I'n not holding out much hope of getting it back Thursday.

It took 3 trips to convince them that it needed parts and not just waving a clipboard over the hood. One thing we figured out is that if you just let it idle for a while it will stay hot but if you drive it, it cools off quickly.

If this is really a sand issue, why does it collect in the heater core and not the radiator? How do we know there isn't more sand that will clog another heater core? I am burning through 2000 warranty miles per month.

the fines in the heater core are smaller than a radiator so smaller particales can pass thru the radiator but may not pass thru the heater core and since coolant flows out of the cylinder head into the heater core....
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:28 PM   #51
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So it's finally being worked on today presumably. I never had any illusions of it being finished today but they keep telling me they will.

Anyone know how the warranty will work? Does the new part have a new warranty? Is it under warranty if it fills up with crap from the engine? If the new part goes bad because the engine is feeding it crap and the engine is under warranty does that count under the drive train warranty?
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Old 10-25-2012, 01:31 PM   #52
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The new heater parts will be covered for the remainder of the 36mo/36K warranty.
Engine parts are covered under the 5yr/100K mile drivetrain warranty.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:42 PM   #53
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I am sure it is flushed out by now so you should not have any more problems and if so they should appear fairly quickly.

I am glad just burping mine did the trick.
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Old 10-25-2012, 06:04 PM   #54
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If sand is in the cooling system, the entire cooling system must be flushed and filled with new coolant. Otherwise, the radiator will have some sand interfering with maximum heat transfer, and the sand will break down water pump components and seals. Sand may settle in areas of engine, interfering with heat transfer. If there's any chance the radiator can clog, as the heater core does, then the radiator should be replaced too. All of this is of course under warranty repairs.
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:44 PM   #55
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They did it today, I got it back and we finally have heat again. I thought they would remove the whole dash but it looks like they removed the passenger seat and worked on the bottom. The invoice that I thought I was getting a copy of but didn't listed it at about $545. It also listed the AC evac and replacement, new coolant and removal and replacement of the battery box.

I am very concerned about it clogging again over time given that it survived a back flush and it took a few months to fill up in the first place.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:36 PM   #56
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Mine has been doing it for a couple weeks now, so I took a few minutes to look at it today. Popped the cap and noticed it look a little low, squeezing the upper hose produced an air sound and some bubbles. I went ahead and busted out my Lisle air bleeding funnel and filled up with some coolant. Noticed more air bubbles came out then it stopped. I hopped back in to start it up and listened, didn't notice any water rushing sound on startup this time. Went ahead and ran it up to operating temp to get the thermostat to open. After that I got some more bubbles out and let it run until no more bubbles. Put everything back together and will try it again in the AM to see if it's fixed.

I did notice so far I've had good heat on both sides and my bleeder screw was tight with no signs of coolant around it, so I'm crossing my fingers this will solve it without a dealership trip.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:17 PM   #57
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Mine has been doing it for a couple weeks now, so I took a few minutes to look at it today. Popped the cap and noticed it look a little low, squeezing the upper hose produced an air sound and some bubbles. I went ahead and busted out my Lisle air bleeding funnel and filled up with some coolant. Noticed more air bubbles came out then it stopped. I hopped back in to start it up and listened, didn't notice any water rushing sound on startup this time. Went ahead and ran it up to operating temp to get the thermostat to open. After that I got some more bubbles out and let it run until no more bubbles. Put everything back together and will try it again in the AM to see if it's fixed.

I did notice so far I've had good heat on both sides and my bleeder screw was tight with no signs of coolant around it, so I'm crossing my fingers this will solve it without a dealership trip.
I bet a dollar you fixed it. I know it worked for mine and I did not even have to use the fancy funnel but only because I don't have one.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:28 PM   #58
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I bet a dollar you fixed it. I know it worked for mine and I did not even have to use the fancy funnel but only because I don't have one.
Hey, I paid $20 for that funnel 15 years ago, I have to get my money's worth out of it, lol
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Old 10-31-2012, 09:40 AM   #59
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My 2013 JKUR made same noise. I parked on a slope and topped off the radiator while squeezing the upper heater core hoses. I don't notice the noise anymore. Will continue to monitor. My heater was very hot before and after. Just had noise.
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:48 PM   #60
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Picked my JKUR up on Friday with 2 miles on the clock, and today while sitting idle pairing up my iPhone I heard the noise. Currently 76 miles on the clock. Also was doing some other weird noise, kept cycling and it was much more pronounced under the Jeep. Either way, hope it's an easy fix like some of the DIYers have done, but what if all you've done is masked the real problem of a partially restricted cooling system by just removing some air from the system? Will continue to monitor.

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