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Old 08-26-2013, 12:37 AM   #181
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Just a bump here to see if anyone has any updates. I picked up the Lisle 24680, and will head to the dealer tomorrow to trade my left nut for a bottle of coolant (68163849AA). Will perform the infamous burp on my 2014 JKUR on Wednesday or Thursday.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...-system/#step1

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Old 08-26-2013, 03:35 PM   #182
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The burp isn't that hard too do, don't over complicate it with gadgets and all, you shouldn't even need to bother buying coolant.

I had the dealer bleed mine out once, but I noticed it came back after a few days. So I did this and it fixed it for good.

With the Jeep warm but off do the following. The hoses should be warm, not hot, if it's too hot let it cool. You should be able to touch the hoses with bare hands.

Find the bleed screw on the left side (driver) of the engine, this is the screw the dealer uses to bleed it out, also the screw that is not tight enough and lets air in causing the issue.

I simply made sure the bleed screw was really tight, and then I squeezed the upper radiator hose about 20 times. With the engine off there shouldn't be pressure preventing the hose from squeezing in and out. I squeezed form the back of the hose closest the fire wall. As I did this I heard the bubbles in the overflow.

Afterwards I took a drive long enough it would cycle the thermostat a few times. I could hear a little more air go out, after that it was quiet.

It did drop down on antifreeze doing this, so I then took it to the dealer and asked them to top it up again. They did it for free under warranty.

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Old 08-26-2013, 06:37 PM   #183
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Yeah, I am leaning more toward your procedure now, Lusus. Here's what happened:

I called the dealer to offer my first born son in exchange for a bottle of the coveted OAT coolant, to which he replied "Son it's a brand new vehicle, you shouldn't have to lay a finger under the hood. Bring it in and we will take care of it for you. No sense in spending $50 on coolant you don't need."

So I went out after work and decided to poke around under the hood. I decided to take the radiator cap off for the *first time* and lo and behold, a bunch of AIR came rushing out from under the cap! I'll see if the sloshing sound returns tomorrow AM, and if so, I'll search for the bleed screw. Do you happen to have a photo of the location of this screw, Lusus? That would certainly make things quicker on my end! Thanks for your help!
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:45 PM   #184
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I impatiently went outside to poke around under the hood and found this:
1) my coolant overflow tank is halfway between the MAX line and the top of the tank, i.e. it *appears* to be overfilled.
2) opened the radiator cap and shined a light inside. No fluid visible.
Going to the dealer to pick up coolant tomorrow for $50. Not letting them take it for a whole day and mess with it.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:12 AM   #185
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Well I couldn't wait. Found a dealer that was open until midnight and picked up some coolant. Watched my coolant thermometer on EVIC average at 212 degrees F, but bounce up to 226 degrees F after I went inside and got the coolant and came back out.

They sold me p/n 68163848AA, which is the 10 year / 150,000 mile *concentrate*. The sales adviser told me to top the radiator off *without* diluting the fluid. I'll pop the front tires up on the curb tomorrow morning and see how it goes...what a mess. The JKUR is less than 2 weeks old! By the way, I paid $56 for this ONE GALLON of coolant. FML.

Note: 2014 JKUR, 3.6L pentastar.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:12 AM   #186
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This morning my overflow bottle was sitting right at the max line (looks good) but the radiator wasn't filled to the top. I could only add about 1/3 cup of coolant to the radiator. I didn't hear the flushing sound when I started the vehicle. I guess I'll see how it goes…
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:12 AM   #187
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Mine did it til I burped it. Jacked up the front right as high as I could, pulled the radiator cap off, and continually squeezed the coolant hoses til the air bubbles stopped coming up through the cap. Topped off the radiator with coolant from the reservoir. Been fine for 10 months now. Zero dollars spend and no time wasted.
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:16 AM   #188
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you may have to get that special filler that sits up high and then run the engine until the thermostat opens and lets all the bubles out. I had the dealer do that ... they had to jack the front end really high and then let it run to let all the bubbles out. as a note the normal temp is 210 and the fan should come on around 222-227 and then back down to 210.
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Old 08-27-2013, 12:02 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevlars View Post
you may have to get that special filler that sits up high and then run the engine until the thermostat opens and lets all the bubles out. I had the dealer do that ... they had to jack the front end really high and then let it run to let all the bubbles out. as a note the normal temp is 210 and the fan should come on around 222-227 and then back down to 210.
Excellent info. My EVIC displays temperature behavior consistent with this. I have the Lisle spill free funnel on the way. I'll mess with it more later. I'm calling it good for now. Thanks guys!
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:26 PM   #190
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I thought I had posted a photo of the bleed screw - it may be in another thread.

Anyhow, here's the only photo I had of the bleed screw. It's on top of the engine, on the driver's side, but tucked under a few things. You can see how mine is mucked up a bit now form tightening it up.
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Old 08-27-2013, 06:07 PM   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lusus_Naturae View Post
I thought I had posted a photo of the bleed screw - it may be in another thread.

Anyhow, here's the only photo I had of the bleed screw. It's on top of the engine, on the driver's side, but tucked under a few things. You can see how mine is mucked up a bit now form tightening it up.
Thank you!! To help me locate it, can you tell me if that screw opens in the 6 or 12 o'clock position? Thanks again!!
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Old 09-11-2013, 06:05 PM   #192
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tried to read most of the posts, but still not sure what is happening... The sound everyone else referring to is the one where it sounds like someone flushed the toilet upstairs and all the water is running down the pipes kind of sound, while the engine is stopped and behind the dash area? if yes, i have this issue, it happens frequently, so to fix it i should 1st find this bleeder screw, tighten it, then just start squeezing the hose (the fat hose runs from the radiator) starting from the firewall side, and make my way to the radiator? am i missing any steps? Should i then start the vehicle? or just that't is, problem solved?
Thanks every one. I love how supportive, and helpful everyone are on this forum.
-NJ
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Old 09-11-2013, 06:36 PM   #193
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tried to read most of the posts, but still not sure what is happening... The sound everyone else referring to is the one where it sounds like someone flushed the toilet upstairs and all the water is running down the pipes kind of sound, while the engine is stopped and behind the dash area? if yes, i have this issue, it happens frequently, so to fix it i should 1st find this bleeder screw, tighten it, then just start squeezing the hose (the fat hose runs from the radiator) starting from the firewall side, and make my way to the radiator? am i missing any steps? Should i then start the vehicle? or just that't is, problem solved?
Thanks every one. I love how supportive, and helpful everyone are on this forum.
-NJ
Tried that and it did not work you need to have your jeep "burped". You can do it (pain in the but) or have the dealer do it. If you do it you will need a special funnel and you need to park at an incline the more the better. Engine cold.. Funnel in radiator with coolant just up to the 1/4 line. Start engine. When the thermostat opens you will see the coolant level drop ...add more coolant. Then the party begins. Your fan will turn on and all these bubbles start popping up. Keep the coolant level at the 1/4 to 1/3 fill on the funnel. Squeeze the rad hose until no more bubbles come out. Shut down engine... If you wait too long to shut the engine down you will bath your engine in coolant and make a mess.


Leave funnel in as the car cools. Fill to the 1/2 to 3/4 level leave to bake for 3 to 4 hours. Remove funnel and top off overflow tank

Tada. Sound still present. Redo until gone. Too me 3 times and the dealer twice.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:15 AM   #194
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Mine stopped on its own, after about 2k miles.
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:32 AM   #195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NW Rubicon View Post
Mine stopped on its own, after about 2k miles.
I'm at 2.2k and it seems LOUDER. I bought all of the equipment to do it but I'm still hesitant for some reason. Not sure how to get it on an incline...maybe pop it up on the curb...
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Old 09-12-2013, 12:33 AM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebot View Post

I'm at 2.2k and it seems LOUDER. I bought all of the equipment to do it but I'm still hesitant for some reason. Not sure how to get it on an incline...maybe pop it up on the curb...
Exactly
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:52 AM   #197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikebot View Post

I'm at 2.2k and it seems LOUDER. I bought all of the equipment to do it but I'm still hesitant for some reason. Not sure how to get it on an incline...maybe pop it up on the curb...
Mine stopped "on its own" after 3k or so. I had it burped a few times at the dealership (on a new Jeep, it's their responsibility to fix it, not yours) and watched them do it. Nothing happened immediately. The sound was still there for a while then went away. I realize that a lot of us can do the work...we just shouldn't have to. The gut reaction is to jump all over it and do anything required to make it go away. I get it. I was there, trust me.
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Old 09-14-2013, 03:44 AM   #198
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Tried that and it did not work you need to have your jeep "burped". You can do it (pain in the but) or have the dealer do it. If you do it you will need a special funnel and you need to park at an incline the more the better. Engine cold.. Funnel in radiator with coolant just up to the 1/4 line. Start engine. When the thermostat opens you will see the coolant level drop ...add more coolant. Then the party begins. Your fan will turn on and all these bubbles start popping up. Keep the coolant level at the 1/4 to 1/3 fill on the funnel. Squeeze the rad hose until no more bubbles come out. Shut down engine... If you wait too long to shut the engine down you will bath your engine in coolant and make a mess.


Leave funnel in as the car cools. Fill to the 1/2 to 3/4 level leave to bake for 3 to 4 hours. Remove funnel and top off overflow tank

Tada. Sound still present. Redo until gone. Too me 3 times and the dealer twice.
Thanks, Kevlar for your response. Sounds straight forward to me, and i think i can do it myself, but however it seems like it might take quiet a bit of time. I have purchased the jeep about a little over a year ago, and it has about 7000 miles on it, is there a way that it could be fixed free by the dealer? I'd rather have them just deal with it, and me not worry about it. Also, if I end up going to the dealership, should I try to explain what the sound is? Or should I just ask if they could burp my jeep for me? Is there a different term i should use to explain what i want them to do?
Thanks again ,
-NJ
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Old 09-14-2013, 08:14 AM   #199
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Ya just take it in and tell them that the coolant system needs to get burped because there might be air in the system. If under warr. It will be free 😃
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:38 PM   #200
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I was just leaving school tonight and started up my jeep (2014 jku) and I heard the water slush sound coming from behind my glove box, and I'm like what is this? But then I remembered seeing a thread somewhere about it and now I'm here!!!

I have a lot going on school/work wise so I'm just gonna live with it for the time being. If I ever get to the dealership for an oil change I might bring it up. However I don't have a lot of trust in the dealers around me so might just try to burp it and change oil myself.
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:47 AM   #201
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I tinkered with my radiator cap a few times, and topped off the radiator with Mopar's million dollar purple coolant and the sound has gone away. I have a brand new burping funnel that I never got to use if anyone wants to buy it...along with a $50 gallon of purple coolant. Haha. $80 wasted.
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:04 AM   #202
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Everyone make it easy on your selves and have the dealer re-route the heater hoses to fill from the bottom up and replace the Sundram cap with a Stant cap. The sundram cap has a very small sealing surface and if not perfectly aligned it will allow air to be sucked into the cooling system. You can fix it for a short time by burping the system but it will come back unless you replace the cap.
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Old 10-06-2013, 09:21 AM   #203
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Someday I'll get around to doing this process.....now with 62000 miles I've grown rather fond of the sloshing sounds.....
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:27 PM   #204
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I'm currently having this issue after the dealer replaced the infamous ticking head. I have brought it back a couple of times and they claim not to hear it, which is a load of BS. I'm taking it back on Sat along with this video I took. I basically pulled the glove box off and got my phone next to the coolant line inside the Jeep. I think you can make out the coolant trickling sound. It sounds like your next to a little stream



Jeep Coolant sound - YouTube

I started also started a thread, not knowing that this one existed...
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/int...nd-335129.html
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:11 AM   #205
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I took a look at the bleeder valve at the end of the top coolant hose. Its in a very tough space under the throttle body, so getting a screwdriver in there is tough. I ended up using a small ratchet driver and noticed that it was really opened up. I had to turn it a bit past a full rotation to get it tightened. I started up the jeep and got the same sound. Drove into work and checked under the hood. I could hear a very slight high pitch noise coming from the radiator cap. I think what I need to do is drive it again, have the engine running and loosen the bleeder valve to let out whatever air is still in the system and then close it off for good.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:38 AM   #206
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So an update for others that have this issue. It turned out to be an open bleeder valve. The valve was left open on my Jeep. It would vent out any air in the lines, along with trickles of coolant once the engine warmed up, once it cooled down the system would de-pressurize and air would be sucked back in through the open valve, that would result in the sound behind the dash. My solution was to run the engine with the bleeder valve open until it warmed up and then simply closed it while the engine was running and the coolant system was pressurized. That ensured that it was properly bled and no air is sucked into the line once it cooled down. I'm happy to report that I don't have any more sounds. The coolant system is finally bled properly and the Jeep is running great again.
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:44 AM   #207
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I like it, it makes all my passengers have the urge to take a leak and I make them hold it.
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Old 10-30-2013, 07:54 PM   #208
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Howdy all,

I'm having the same issue (coolant waterfall) and I suspect the bleeder valve, but I'm not having success accessing it (2014 JKU). I tried getting a torx socket to it from a few angles, but no dice--not enough clearance from top to bottom. Any suggestions?

Thanks a bunch!
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:25 AM   #209
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I used something like this. Its a small angle ratchet acre driver with a big phillips bit



Harbor Freight sells one
8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:35 AM   #210
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Thanks a bunch!

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