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Old 12-03-2011, 02:18 PM   #1
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GAP Insurance, what gives...

I've read a few threads about not being suckered by the dealer and pay $600 for GAP insurance, and to go through my insurance company. Just got off the phone with Geico, and they told me they do not provide GAP insurance. What gives? If Geico doesn't do it, I have a hard time believing other major insurance companies do. Any advice guys?

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Old 12-03-2011, 02:20 PM   #2
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GEICO (the underwriter) said they won't insure my Jeep because I have a winch and "take it off-roading" too.

Find another company.

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Old 12-03-2011, 02:27 PM   #3
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I have American Family, and I have GAP insurance for $4/month.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:32 PM   #4
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Yea, just learned that Progressive and All state both offer gap. I will call them tonight, since they only offer GAP in ADDITION to your policy with them. In the NY tri state area, if you have a clean record, Geico is usually by far the cheapest. I'm also not sure if I need GAP insurance....how much do they pay if I buy the car wednesday and total it on thursday? The MSRP of the vehicle? What if I bought it below MSRP?
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:34 PM   #5
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I understand GAP insurance will not only pay the FMV of the vehicle, but if you still owe $ on the loan, they'll pay that off too. That way, you're not strapped with a car payment for a totaled Jeep.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:34 PM   #6
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Got suckered myself. Like above it's like $5 a month.
Still don't know what the hell it is. Seems like a good thing : hide:
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:37 PM   #7
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State farm has gap, but the dealer I went to gave me discount from 700 which is a rip down to 400. I can live with 400 for the life of the loan.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:37 PM   #8
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It's called GAP insurance b/c it covers the "gap" between the FMV of the crashed vehicle and the amount still owed on it. Every time I get a brand new vehicle I get the GAP insurance because you would get so screwed if you totaled it within shortly after driving it off the lot. The way I see it, you benefit from having it for the first 2 years or so. By then, the FMV seems to catch up with what you owe on the loan.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:38 PM   #9
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Read the gap policy thoroughly...some only cover up to $5000.

I have mine thru allstate, it was cheaper and more thorough
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:45 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phishe View Post
It's called GAP insurance b/c it covers the "gap" between the FMV of the crashed vehicle and the amount still owed on it. Every time I get a brand new vehicle I get the GAP insurance because you would get so screwed if you totaled it within shortly after driving it off the lot. The way I see it, you benefit from having it for the first 2 years or so. By then, the FMV seems to catch up with what you owe on the loan.
X2, My GC is the first vehicle I purchased gap on, not a lot of equity in trade and only put down $500.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:45 PM   #11
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Say with a trade/ DP, MV already is more then I owe on the loan no need for gap correct?

Looks like I lost... well $20 so far
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:50 PM   #12
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Correct

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Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Say with a trade/ DP, MV already is more then I owe on the loan no need for gap correct?

Looks like I lost... well $20 so far
Yes, if the FMV of the vehicle is more than what you owe on the loan, there is no point to GAP insurance at all. It really depends on how you get it. The last two cars I bought (before my Jeep) my credit union just added $275 to the principle of my loan for the GAP coverage. This time, for my Jeep, I'm paying $4/month with my regular auto insurance. Not sure whether they'll let me drop the coverage once there's not a gap anymore. But if they won't, at $4 month, who cares.
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phishe

Yes, if the FMV of the vehicle is more than what you owe on the loan, there is no point to GAP insurance at all. It really depends on how you get it. The last two cars I bought (before my Jeep) my credit union just added $275 to the principle of my loan for the GAP coverage. This time, for my Jeep, I'm paying $4/month with my regular auto insurance. Not sure whether they'll let me drop the coverage once there's not a gap anymore. But if they won't, at $4 month, who cares.
Thanks. Oh well
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Old 12-03-2011, 02:57 PM   #14
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Gap is a high risk policy. Means the buyer did not have much of a trade in or down payment. It's another way the insurance companies credit score the risk.

Most insurance companies use your credit score as an underwriting tool. They consider a person with a low score to be a higher risk than one with a higher score. Why? Personal responsibility.

How do I know? I work for an insurance company that does not credit score. We underwrite the item being insured not the owner of the property. Before you ask for a quote know that we only write houses and commercial buildings. Can't help you.
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:04 PM   #15
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It's called GAP insurance b/c it covers the "gap" between the FMV of the crashed vehicle and the amount still owed on it. Every time I get a brand new vehicle I get the GAP insurance because you would get so screwed if you totaled it within shortly after driving it off the lot. The way I see it, you benefit from having it for the first 2 years or so. By then, the FMV seems to catch up with what you owe on the loan.
It's called GAP insurance because it's Guarenteed Asset Protection, and, since our assets are Autos, it's sometimes referred as Guarenteed Auto Protection.

GAP coverage typically cost the dealer a few hundred dollars. They sell it at a markup, but, typically, that markup is minimal. It does cover the deficiency (or gap) between your car's value & the loan's payoff. Most dealers will sell it for between $600 to $795, depending on the bank's willingness to include it in the finance package. On a typical loan (60-72 months), it costs around $10 per month. IF your insurance carrier (Safeco, Geico, Allstate, whatever) offers you the coverage, it's for around $5-7 per month. IT IS IN YOUR BEST INTEREST TO PURCHASE THIS FROM THE DEALER!, as, in the event of an accident, you are NOT fighting with your insurance company to settle value, or prevent it from being totalled. For example: newer JK might be worth $20K., but the payoff might be worth $30K. The GAP pays the $10K deficiency. Now, say you wreck it, and do $18K damage. The insurance company may repair that car, to prevent the $30K payoff, when if you have indepenant GAP, it's surely a total.

On an average, or typical, 72 month loan, you do NOT build equity until the 5th year, and, on some cars, it takes the 6th year.
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:17 PM   #16
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i doubled check with my insurer and if you owe more than the book on the car they will not cover the difference. looks like you do need that gap insurance provided by the dealer.
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by TreeClimber1 View Post
It's called GAP insurance because it's Guarenteed Asset Protection, and, since our assets are Autos, it's sometimes referred as Guarenteed Auto Protection.

GAP coverage typically cost the dealer a few hundred dollars. They sell it at a markup, but, typically, that markup is minimal. It does cover the deficiency (or gap) between your car's value & the loan's payoff. Most dealers will sell it for between $600 to $795, depending on the bank's willingness to include it in the finance package. On a typical loan (60-72 months), it costs around $10 per month. IF your insurance carrier (Safeco, Geico, Allstate, whatever) offers you the coverage, it's for around $5-7 per month. IT IS IN YOUR BEST INTEREST TO PURCHASE THIS FROM THE DEALER!, as, in the event of an accident, you are NOT fighting with your insurance company to settle value, or prevent it from being totalled. For example: newer JK might be worth $20K., but the payoff might be worth $30K. The GAP pays the $10K deficiency. Now, say you wreck it, and do $18K damage. The insurance company may repair that car, to prevent the $30K payoff, when if you have indepenant GAP, it's surely a total.

On an average, or typical, 72 month loan, you do NOT build equity until the 5th year, and, on some cars, it takes the 6th year.
That's why it's important to do your homework before purchasing GAP. I had to read the full policy with Allstate and then ask questions before I decided to go with them. Plus I got some sort discount on the auto insurance for going with their gap.

If you purchase at the dealer make sure it's chryslers gap insurance and not a 3rd party gap insurance you have never heard of. Per my post above, some gap policies will max out coverage at $5000. So if you owe 25000 and it's worth $18000 you are still on the hook for $2000.
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Old 12-03-2011, 03:54 PM   #18
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That's why it's important to do your homework before purchasing GAP. I had to read the full policy with Allstate and then ask questions before I decided to go with them. Plus I got some sort discount on the auto insurance for going with their gap.

If you purchase at the dealer make sure it's chryslers gap insurance and not a 3rd party gap insurance you have never heard of. Per my post above, some gap policies will max out coverage at $5000. So if you owe 25000 and it's worth $18000 you are still on the hook for $2000.
Every GAP policy will have a stated limit of liability. A lot of them are at 120% of value, some are at 150% of value, some are at a dollar value, such as $5000. Few, if any, are unlimited. The dealer's cost between the policies is negligable. Where one policy may cost them $330, the other may cost $375. If the Finance Manager has any morals, scruples, and/or ethics, they will present you with a policy that is appropiate for your circumstances. Yes, they are going to make a (small) profit, but they are entitled to make some $$ for the service of selling you this policy. Much like your Allstate or Geico agent makes $$ from every renewal of your policy.

In Washington, GAP and Extended Service Contract (warranty) can be cancelled. This means that if you pay off, or refinance, or feel you have equity, you can cancel the policy and get a pro-rated refund of any unused portion. This refund will go to the lender to reduce your loan, as the GAP and ESC were financed by the lender.

As with any dealer aftersale items purchased, and informed decision is in your best interest. Both of these items have substantial benefit, but come at a cost.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:30 PM   #19
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Ok, but do you need it on ALL loans? Let's take my deal. The MSRP of my car is about $37,225. I got it for $33,823. The car is a lease, which is based off the agreed upon price. The insurance payout is based on market value. So, if I total my jeep immediately, then how can I get hurt financially? Just hard for me to grasp how this thing is calculated. BTW, I put $3000 down (on top of tax, title, license, etc,) so the loan amount is actually $6000 LESS than the value of the vehicle ALREADY before I even drive off the lot.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:37 PM   #20
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FYI:

Gap insurance covers the difference between what the car is worth and what you owe on the car. It comes into play if the car is stolen or totaled (damaged to the point that repair would cost more than the car is worth) while the owner is still making payments.

For buyers, gap insurance only makes sense if you expect to be "upside down" on the car (you owe more than it is worth). If you made a low down payment, if you bought a car that depreciates rapidly, if you have a high interest rate or if you rolled over other costs, such as money owed on a trade-in, into your new-car payments, gap insurance makes sense. Most buyers, particularly those who made a healthy down payment, will always be right-side-up on the car, and therefore don't need gap insurance.
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:56 PM   #21
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Ok, but do you need it on ALL loans? Let's take my deal. The MSRP of my car is about $37,225. I got it for $33,823. The car is a lease, which is based off the agreed upon price. The insurance payout is based on market value. So, if I total my jeep immediately, then how can I get hurt financially? Just hard for me to grasp how this thing is calculated. BTW, I put $3000 down (on top of tax, title, license, etc,) so the loan amount is actually $6000 LESS than the value of the vehicle ALREADY before I even drive off the lot.
Do you need it? FAWK yeah!
MSRP has nothing to do with how the insurance company will determine Fair Market Value. Yes, you are better than someone who paid MSRP (or higher), but if you paid less, then they can justify it's worth less. And the $3000 you put down went to fees, more so than to reduce your unpaid ballance. Your first payment was in advance, as were the taxes, and title fees (tags). Without looking at the actual Lease, it's hard to tell what the real financed amount is.

The good news: a LOT of leases include GAP at no charge. Read your contract.

On a typical financed vehicle, the dealer will make a profit. Then the State is going to take tax, license, documentary fees. Then the car will depreciate, because it's no longer 'new', even though it's never been driven, and the miles are still zero. So, without even driving it off the lot, you've just lost somewhere between 15 and 30% of that vehicles value.
On average, most cars are only worth 50% of MSRP (wholesale) at the 2 year mark. This is what allows dealers to sell prior rental cars for so much less than new versions, and make a nice profit, and the customers still get a bargain.
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:03 PM   #22
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FAWK yeah!
I like this expression. Beats what they always used in Battlestar Galactica..."Fracking"

Starbuck says, "I guess a pity frak is out of the question"
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:23 AM   #23
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I like this expression. Beats what they always used in Battlestar Galactica..."Fracking"

Starbuck says, "I guess a pity frak is out of the question"
Out here in the oil patch fracking has a whole different definition.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:24 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
Ok, but do you need it on ALL loans? Let's take my deal. The MSRP of my car is about $37,225. I got it for $33,823. The car is a lease, which is based off the agreed upon price. The insurance payout is based on market value. So, if I total my jeep immediately, then how can I get hurt financially? Just hard for me to grasp how this thing is calculated. BTW, I put $3000 down (on top of tax, title, license, etc,) so the loan amount is actually $6000 LESS than the value of the vehicle ALREADY before I even drive off the lot.
Most lease companies already have gap included in the lease agreement. I'll have to find some paperwork to fully expalin, but I know ALLY for sure has gap included. I'm not sure if they roll it in with the acq fee. I'll see what I can scan or copy and paste.
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Old 12-05-2011, 09:50 AM   #25
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GAP saved my ass once, so I'm a firm believer. My first brand new vehicle was a 2004 Saturn Vue AWD V6. I had it a total of one month before a teenage girl talking on her cell phone ran a light in front of me, totaling the vehicle. So, you can imagine the mess I would have been in if I had not gotten the GAP. Best case scenario without it, I would have had to go through legal hell trying to get her insurance company to pay off the vehicle. In my case, I didn't have to think about it, and I had plenty to think about with my trashed knee, rehab, etc.

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