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Old 08-30-2013, 09:16 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mallaki View Post

For the last time, someone experienced please,
1. do I need to re-gear?
2. Would it be wise to re-gear?
3. Why should I re-gear?

And we all have seen the gears chart, I have seen it too, so don’t send me there, but that still doesn’t convince me that I need to re-gear.

Thank you all..
Here are my thoughts....

For the last time, someone experienced please,
1. do I need to re-gear? No you NEED to re-gear
2. Would it be wise to re-gear? Yes it would but if you have a lot of highway driving i think 4.88 will too high. You will be turning a lot of RPM at highway speeds. I would go to 4.56 max and that will give you enough gear to run 37s in future and still have pretty good performance.
3. Why should I re-gear? Better MPG, better acceleration, better crawling when off-road, less wear and tear on the trans due to the constant gear changes with your Auto trans(they are programmed to stay in an optimal RPM range and with 3.21s and 35s they cant find it especially in a hilly area, less wear and tear on engine itself from running in a more efficient RPM range.

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Old 08-30-2013, 09:50 AM   #32
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There is no difference between the gears- they all are made by CHA in Korea, from what everyone (who deals with and sells gears) say. CHA makes Yukon, Nitro, G2, etc., and rebox them for the different gear resellers. US Gear makes gears in the US and use a better metal but they do not do 4.56 and are almost twice as much as the rest. This only matters if you are looking at 4.88, obviously. I am waiting a bit- I have 35s now. While I wanted to re-gear in the next few weeks (from 4.10s to 4.56), I realized that I may go to 37s next year. If I do that, I'll want the 4.88s and the US Gear gears. I'll put up with the annoyance when I drive up the mountain passes for now...or take my V8 4Runner since we go for trips/hiking/biking instead of wheeling trails sometimes.

Anyone know if CHA has two lines- do they have a premium line? I saw that mentioned once but all the gears I see (Nitro, G2, Yukon, etc.) are priced the same, so am not sure.

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Old 08-30-2013, 09:57 AM   #33
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1. do I need to re-gear? No you DO NOT NEED to re-gear.....wouldnt let me edit my post..sorry about that.
No you DO NOT NEED to re-gear
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:07 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by BB1857 View Post
Here are my thoughts....

For the last time, someone experienced please,
1. do I need to re-gear? No you NEED to re-gear
2. Would it be wise to re-gear? Yes it would but if you have a lot of highway driving i think 4.88 will too high. You will be turning a lot of RPM at highway speeds. I would go to 4.56 max and that will give you enough gear to run 37s in future and still have pretty good performance.
3. Why should I re-gear? Better MPG, better acceleration, better crawling when off-road, less wear and tear on the trans due to the constant gear changes with your Auto trans(they are programmed to stay in an optimal RPM range and with 3.21s and 35s they cant find it especially in a hilly area, less wear and tear on engine itself from running in a more efficient RPM range.
I was considering the same thing about the high RPM but everyone seems to believe the higher numbering in gears, the better it will be.
I am leading now more towards the 4.56. Will talk again to the people from the shop who will do the install and see what they have to say about this.

Thanks
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:16 AM   #35
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Many times when talking with people and you say JK they automatically go to the 4.88, 5.13, 5.38 gears with 35s and 37s. These assumptions are correct when talking about 07-11 but just isnt the case with the new 3.6. An extra 80 horsepower does not need the same big gear change as the the old motor. Many times the 07-11 mindset gets lumped into the 12-13 which couldnt be farther from being correct. I am going 4.56 because we have a ton of highway driving to get anywhere around here and 4.88 will simply turn too many RPM.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:02 PM   #36
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Yeah, 4.56 is the perfect gear for the 3.6. I'd only do 4.88 if towing frequently. The older JK is a different animal for sure. It's a slower weaker one.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:33 PM   #37
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4.10 vs. 4.56

Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
There is no difference between the gears- they all are made by CHA in Korea, from what everyone (who deals with and sells gears) say. CHA makes Yukon, Nitro, G2, etc., and rebox them for the different gear resellers. US Gear makes gears in the US and use a better metal but they do not do 4.56 and are almost twice as much as the rest. This only matters if you are looking at 4.88, obviously. I am waiting a bit- I have 35s now. While I wanted to re-gear in the next few weeks (from 4.10s to 4.56), I realized that I may go to 37s next year. If I do that, I'll want the 4.88s and the US Gear gears. I'll put up with the annoyance when I drive up the mountain passes for now...or take my V8 4Runner since we go for trips/hiking/biking instead of wheeling trails sometimes.

Anyone know if CHA has two lines- do they have a premium line? I saw that mentioned once but all the gears I see (Nitro, G2, Yukon, etc.) are priced the same, so am not sure.
I'm rolling with stock 32s, 3.73 gears, and the 6 speed m/t. My wish list includes 35s. I know that the 3.73s are going to be a bit inadequate. I've been studying the chart and it seems that 4.10s with 35s will keep my the closest to my stock set up, and hopefully retaining some semblance of decent fuel mileage (I average 20 mpg). It seems that everyone here on the forum immediately jumps to 4.56 (m/t) as their recommendation when re-gearing. I'm concerned that while 4.56 will give me more than adequate muscle, they will also totally destroy my mpg.

All of that being said, who is running 4.10s and 35s? And what are your overall impressions with this setup?
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:42 PM   #38
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Im running 4.10's and 35's currently and its not too bad. Driving into a headwind on the highway causes a downshift. Towing a pop up camper it hunts around quite a bit. Driving around town its no problem at all. Most offroad scenarios have also been no problem, especially in low range. In the deep sand, id rather have something a little lower. Its more sluggish than stock, but not by much. Once you start adding a lot of weight, it gets more noticeable.
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:46 PM   #39
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that's what i'm running(4.10 on 35's) and its just fine, my trans is aute and has ben set up using the aev procal. I wheel the crap out of it and its a daily driver.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:06 PM   #40
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I am running the 4.10s and 35s (MTR Kevlars). It is fine on flat land but annoying as hell climbing up the mountains. If you live in Florida, you will be fine with 4.10s and 35s. I have used the AEV Procal but it doesn't matter when I am going up an incline for miles and am stuck in 3rd or sometimes 2nd, with the RPM screaming. Upshifting works for a few seconds and then I am back down a gear. It simply needs to be re-geared here. Most states may be very pleasant with 4.10s and 35s. It revs nice and low at 65-70 on flat highways. I live at 6,000 feet and the highways take me up to 11,000 or a bit higher.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:24 PM   #41
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I am running the 4.10s and 35s (MTR Kevlars). It is fine on flat land but annoying as hell climbing up the mountains. If you live in Florida, you will be fine with 4.10s and 35s. I have used the AEV Procal but it doesn't matter when I am going up an incline for miles and am stuck in 3rd or sometimes 2nd, with the RPM screaming. Upshifting works for a few seconds and then I am back down a gear. It simply needs to be re-geared here. Most states may be very pleasant with 4.10s and 35s. It revs nice and low at 65-70 on flat highways. I live at 6,000 feet and the highways take me up to 11,000 or a bit higher.
Thanks to everyone for the input. It's very helpful! . I'm thinking that some of the issues of high rpms and shifting would be less of an issue with my 6 speed. Our last trip to the Smoky Mountains was very manageable with the 3.73/32s/6spd configuration. While I obviously did have to do some down shifting, it was not a constant battle of shifting back and forth. I'd love to hear from someone with 4.10s and a manual transmission.
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:59 PM   #42
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since i didn't see it mentioned, the OP will notice a slower crawl speed when in 4lo

a problem not often talked about is keeping the crawl speed slow, without the expense of a 4:1 t-case (aftermarket or factory Rubicon, or even more expensive crawl boxes).

i would imagine that with a 3.21 and 37 inch tires, the 4lo speed was running
so 5.13 and 37 should get him back down, in fact, depending on his actual tire diameter when aired down, he may be able to crawl a tad slower than stock gears/stock tires.


and it is true that the newer jeeps can probably hover around 4.88 and 37 and be ok for most applications and driving styles, but if I ever have the cash to polish my turd dana 44s I'd run 5.13 with 37s :P
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:36 PM   #43
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I am running the 4.10s and 35s (MTR Kevlars). It is fine on flat land but annoying as hell climbing up the mountains. If you live in Florida, you will be fine with 4.10s and 35s. I have used the AEV Procal but it doesn't matter when I am going up an incline for miles and am stuck in 3rd or sometimes 2nd, with the RPM screaming. Upshifting works for a few seconds and then I am back down a gear. It simply needs to be re-geared here. Most states may be very pleasant with 4.10s and 35s. It revs nice and low at 65-70 on flat highways. I live at 6,000 feet and the highways take me up to 11,000 or a bit higher.
Interesting. Mine is great on highway and perfect off road. I am at a lower altitude though, think that is the difference? I also have the 3.6.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:54 PM   #44
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I say slap on the 35s and see how it works.If not happy then go to 4:56 .The change from 3:73 to 4:10 is not worth the cost. If your going to do it go 4:56 .
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:43 PM   #45
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I have a 2013 my wife has a 2011(3.8) we both run 37's I'm a 2 door my wife is a 4 door. I have an auto and 3.73's my wife is auto with 5.13's. I can smoke her without trying. 3.73's are def. slower than stock with the 37's but it isn't terrible. on the highway I still get 19-20 mpg. I still can roll up the high passes here in Utah in 3rd gear at 3k rpm's doing 70. When I regear I will probably go to a 4.56 as I don't see much need to go bigger. The thing is not only did the 3.6 get more power but the transmission got an extra gear.
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:46 PM   #46
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Holy Crap!!!! That's all I can say now that my gears are done and broken in... It is a completely different jeep. There is insane acceleration and jump off the line. On the highway it flys when you kick it! The gas mileage is much better... It is nothing short of amazing. I am very glad I went with the 5.13's and it still cruises just fine at 70 mph (I think the extra gear in the newer tranny helped a lot with that). It feels like I literally have double the power!!!!
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:24 PM   #47
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I have 2012 JKU Auto with 35s” and 3.21. In a week I have my gears replaced with Yukons 4.88.
I do a lot of highway driving as I live in NYC, but go off-road few times a year.

More and more people says here on the forum that 4.88 may be too much. Some people said that they even got disappointed after going from 3.21 to 4.88 on 2012 and up with 35s”.
I honestly, don’t feel the urge to re-gear, but all the experts tells me that I should. I am ok with my 3.21 gears as my jeep runs, accelerate and off-road nicely.

For the last time, someone experienced please,
1. do I need to re-gear?
2. Would it be wise to re-gear?
3. Why should I re-gear?

And we all have seen the gears chart, I have seen it too, so don’t send me there, but that still doesn’t convince me that I need to re-gear.

Thank you all..
For the last time, someone experienced please,
1. do I need to re-gear?
(That is completely up to you if you are happy why change it)?

2. Would it be wise to re-gear?
(Wise, well guess that depends on you again why do it just to do it, I felt I should just to say I did, and now question my self a little but with everything reprogramed correctly I can really see a difference on take off but I am still in my 500 mile period so I have been taking it easy.)

3. Why should I re-gear?
(Well for added power, better acceleration and more torque.)

Also I retract my previous statement about not being able to notice a difference the shop had the wrong settings programed in so the Jeep was like a slug, I put in the correct settings and she woke up.
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:20 PM   #48
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measure your tires with a tape measure, your 37s may not really be 37s, especially if your rims are wider than 8.5.

Ive been studying this at length for about a year. If you have 4.10s, dont regear until you get to 37s. Then I suggest 4.88. (manual) if you have 3.21s and go to 35s, 4.10s or 4.56.

4.88 is a lot of gear for the pentastar if your not turning 37s.

as far as brand, you want Yukons. If i was looking to buy a truck on the secondary market, and it was geared, anything but Yukons would turn me away. Other gears make noise. spend a little more when it comes to this part of your truck. Cheaping out here could cost you on the trail, and will cost you in resale.

ps. yukons are not really that much more expensive check randy's ring and pinion.
You are right. I have upgraded to 4.88 and wish i would go with 4.56. Not sure how much difference would that make but 4.88 with 35s" on 2012 JKU Auto just simply turns to much RPMs!

I am still in the breaking phase and sometimes its OK and sometimes i hate it. I have never loved it yet!
I just turned 500 miles mark and will be changing fluids tomorrow.

Also its a little noisier. I have used Yukons and reputable shop installed it. Maybe when i change the fluids, it will run more quiet.

Anyway, i have upgraded from 3.21 to 4.88. Its too much gears!!. 4.56 IMO should be considered MAX for 2012 JKU Auto with 35s" unless heavy towing and most of the time off-roading. As far as highway drive, not sure if anyone could like 4.88!
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:34 PM   #49
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This is a good thread. I running 3.21 gears with an auto and stockers with my 2013 JKU in Kansas and I just don't see a need for more gears. In Colorado, yes. Bigger tires, yes. I'm planning on some 33-35" tires but am doubtful on a regear.
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:28 AM   #50
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This is a good thread. I running 3.21 gears with an auto and stockers with my 2013 JKU in Kansas and I just don't see a need for more gears. In Colorado, yes. Bigger tires, yes. I'm planning on some 33-35" tires but am doubtful on a regear.
If you are going to run 35s you will want to regear. I ran 3.21s for the last two months on my 35s and it sucked. Gas mileage was terrible, thing was always hunting for a different gear, and it just wasn't as much fun to drive. Got 4.56 gears installed yesterday with my lockers and even after one minor drive home I can tell it will be way better. We live in some hilly terrain and it sucked so I can't imagine being in the mountains of Co and not regearing.
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:49 AM   #51
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I had no complains running 35s” with 3.21, but I live in NYC so not that many hills here. Off-roading was also decent (for me) with 3.21, but only did that once so far. going for the second time soon :-)
After regearing to 4.88 gas mileage improved dramatically. stricly on highway for 2 hours, I would get the most 16.1 MPG on 3.21 but I was driving maybe 70 MPH. now with the 4.88 highway drive I get 19.3 but not exceeding 60 MPH as I am still in the breaking process. City drive also jumped from 13.X to 16.X after regear. so that’s a plus!
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:22 AM   #52
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If you are going to run 35s you will want to regear. I ran 3.21s for the last two months on my 35s and it sucked. Gas mileage was terrible, thing was always hunting for a different gear, and it just wasn't as much fun to drive. Got 4.56 gears installed yesterday with my lockers and even after one minor drive home I can tell it will be way better. We live in some hilly terrain and it sucked so I can't imagine being in the mountains of Co and not regearing.
I'm in Kansas, which is why I think I will be okay. If not I will regear, but reading others experience with the pre-2012 made me think it was a must. Now I've read several folks have gotten bigger with tires with the 3.6 w/o issue. Also, I kinda dig the pizza cutter look so I won't we running wide body heavy murders no matter what I get.
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:23 AM   #53
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Has anyone regeared their jeep themselves? I'm wondering how hard it is because I would rather not pay for a shop to do it for me.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:39 AM   #54
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Has anyone regeared their jeep themselves? I'm wondering how hard it is because I would rather not pay for a shop to do it for me.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/201...iy-223568.html
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/hel...ll-219983.html

The short answer- not easy. 8 out of 10 according to my very experienced/knowledgeable husband. Not to mention a couple hundred bucks in tools- and we have a pretty well stocked garage to start. In a do over I'd replace all my bearings- more money. Not for the faint of heart- one thing on a Jeep I think is certainly worth paying for the pro install.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:59 AM   #55
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Do u have to get different axles? Or can u just swap the gears . I want 4.88's but have been told that I'd need diff axles. Mine is the 09 jku with 3.21 btw
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:51 PM   #56
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Do u have to get different axles? Or can u just swap the gears . I want 4.88's but have been told that I'd need diff axles. Mine is the 09 jku with 3.21 btw
That is incorrect. You will need a new carrier upfront (which holds the larger gears) with 3.21s. The new carrier will fit into the housing on your D30 axle shaft no problem. No new axle needed front or rear.
Its a good time to upgrade the shaft, sleeve or gusset, add lockers etc.- but none of this is necessary.
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Old 09-22-2013, 03:32 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post
That is incorrect. You will need a new carrier upfront (which holds the larger gears) with 3.21s. The new carrier will fit into the housing on your D30 axle shaft no problem. No new axle needed front or rear. Its a good time to upgrade the shaft, sleeve or gusset, add lockers etc.- but none of this is necessary.
Yes all you need is a new carrier.
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:45 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by cornfedksboy View Post
I'm in Kansas, which is why I think I will be okay. If not I will regear, but reading others experience with the pre-2012 made me think it was a must. Now I've read several folks have gotten bigger with tires with the 3.6 w/o issue. Also, I kinda dig the pizza cutter look so I won't we running wide body heavy murders no matter what I get.
Sorry about that...not sure where I got that you were in Co. If you are in a fairly flat area you will be ok...it won't be great but it won't be perfect either. It's really up to your preference as to whether you are ok with the way it drives.
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:51 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by JeepHerz View Post
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/201...iy-223568.html http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/hel...ll-219983.html The short answer- not easy. 8 out of 10 according to my very experienced/knowledgeable husband. Not to mention a couple hundred bucks in tools- and we have a pretty well stocked garage to start. In a do over I'd replace all my bearings- more money. Not for the faint of heart- one thing on a Jeep I think is certainly worth paying for the pro install.
I will say this....DONT even think about doing your own regear. I had a friend who is a mechanic for a living and has all tools needed and it still was a 10 hour job because we couldn't use the lift where he works. Crawling around the ground, knocking bearings out, putting new ones in, setting backlash, doing the crush sleeve...all VERY difficult work..plus if you have an automatic you have to have a procal or superchips programmer to flash the computer with the new ratio.
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:47 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by BB1857 View Post
I will say this....DONT even think about doing your own regear. I had a friend who is a mechanic for a living and has all tools needed and it still was a 10 hour job because we couldn't use the lift where he works. Crawling around the ground, knocking bearings out, putting new ones in, setting backlash, doing the crush sleeve...all VERY difficult work..plus if you have an automatic you have to have a procal or superchips programmer to flash the computer with the new ratio.
Thanks for the info! That's exactly what I needed to know.

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