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Old 10-26-2013, 01:52 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by COStrider View Post
I disagree. I have both 35s and 4.10s, although I do have a manual. It's great for flats but any incline, towing, altitude change and its not ideal. I'm in Denver at 5,280 feet and its at the cusp of being under geared, especially with lots of bumper, armor, and winch weight.

So, I guess location, usage and mods are other factors that play into the formula

I'm really thinking 4.56 for a manual is going to be the magic number. No idea on the auto, which I realize is the primary content of this thread
Good info, thank you

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Old 10-27-2013, 12:39 PM   #32
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I disagree. I have both 35s and 4.10s, although I do have a manual. It's great for flats but any incline, towing, altitude change and its not ideal. I'm in Denver at 5,280 feet and its at the cusp of being under geared, especially with lots of bumper, armor, and winch weight. So, I guess location, usage and mods are other factors that play into the formula I'm really thinking 4.56 for a manual is going to be the magic number. No idea on the auto, which I realize is the primary content of this thread
I have been told to run 4.56 in my automatic. With 35s

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Old 10-27-2013, 01:10 PM   #33
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Good info, thank you
Welcome. Sounds like 4.56 auto or manual then should be ideal
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Old 10-27-2013, 04:47 PM   #34
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Wow I heard I should be running 513 with my 37's? I only want to do this once but I spend 80% on the road right now because its my main ride?
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Old 10-27-2013, 05:09 PM   #35
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Wow I heard I should be running 513 with my 37's? I only want to do this once but I spend 80% on the road right now because its my main ride?
You have 3.8 which sounds right at 5.13
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Old 10-27-2013, 06:21 PM   #36
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Wow I heard I should be running 513 with my 37's? I only want to do this once but I spend 80% on the road right now because its my main ride?
Post some pictures. I am still looking around for ideas. My build should start in the next few weeks.
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Old 10-27-2013, 07:23 PM   #37
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If you go with a 37 later on, do yourself a big favor and go with a 4.88. You can't just calculate gearing solely on math. Weight and rotational weight need to be considered. Will you have rock rails, bumpers, winch, etc etc etc? 4.88s are the way to go with 37s. I wouldn't go any higher than a 4.88 on a D30.
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Old 10-27-2013, 07:51 PM   #38
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If you go with a 37 later on, do yourself a big favor and go with a 4.88. You can't just calculate gearing solely on math. Weight and rotational weight need to be considered. Will you have rock rails, bumpers, winch, etc etc etc? 4.88s are the way to go with 37s. I wouldn't go any higher than a 4.88 on a D30.
Bumpers winch and few things are later down the road. But for now it will be 3.5aev with 35inch toyo mt. The 37s are at a later date. I would like to have a gear that will handle both 35s and 37s if possible.
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:30 PM   #39
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Bumpers winch and few things are later down the road. But for now it will be 3.5aev with 35inch toyo mt. The 37s are at a later date. I would like to have a gear that will handle both 35s and 37s if possible.
If 90%+ of your driving is at 65mph or LESS (unless you live in Colorado or any other location with crazy elevation and elevation changes) 4.88s will be ok. For Colorado and such, 4.88s are damn near necessary.
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:24 PM   #40
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Bumpers winch and few things are later down the road. But for now it will be 3.5aev with 35inch toyo mt. The 37s are at a later date. I would like to have a gear that will handle both 35s and 37s if possible.
I’m assuming you have P225/75R16 BSW tires. They’re about 29.3”. If you’re going to 35” tires, you will increase your effective gearing by 19.5% without regearing.

If you switch from 3.21:1 gears to 4.10:1 gears, you will lower your gearing by 27.7%. You will have lowered your overall gearing by 6.9% from what you have now if you go to 4.10:1 gears. So, at whatever speed you’re running 2,500 rpm, you will be running 2,673 rpm. Pretty close to what you have now.

If you go to 4.56:1 gears, you are decreasing your gearing by 42.1%. Accounting for the 19.5% change in tire size, you will decrease your gearing overall by about 18.9%. With 35s, that means at whatever speed you are running 2,500 rpm now, you would be running 2,972 rpm.

With 35s and 4.88:1 gears, you would be lowering you gearing from what you have now by about 27%. That means at whatever speed you are running 2,500 rpm, you would be running 3,182 rpm. If you went to 37s with 4.88:1 gears, you would be running 3,010 rpm at the same speed you now are running 2,500 rpm.

Without opining on what you should do, those are the numbers.
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:13 PM   #41
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I’m assuming you have P225/75R16 BSW tires. They’re about 29.3”. If you’re going to 35” tires, you will increase your effective gearing by 19.5% without regearing. If you switch from 3.21:1 gears to 4.10:1 gears, you will lower your gearing by 27.7%. You will have lowered your overall gearing by 6.9% from what you have now if you go to 4.10:1 gears. So, at whatever speed you’re running 2,500 rpm, you will be running 2,673 rpm. Pretty close to what you have now. If you go to 4.56:1 gears, you are decreasing your gearing by 42.1%. Accounting for the 19.5% change in tire size, you will decrease your gearing overall by about 18.9%. With 35s, that means at whatever speed you are running 2,500 rpm now, you would be running 2,972 rpm. With 35s and 4.88:1 gears, you would be lowering you gearing from what you have now by about 27%. That means at whatever speed you are running 2,500 rpm, you would be running 3,182 rpm. If you went to 37s with 4.88:1 gears, you would be running 3,010 rpm at the same speed you now are running 2,500 rpm. Without opining on what you should do, those are the numbers.
Thank you for breaking it down. Now to be honest I am new to the jeep thing. 95% of my driving will be on road. I would say probably 50-50 highway travel compared to city.

With that being said. What gear do you think I should run?

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