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Old 04-21-2012, 05:16 AM   #1
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Grease between brake piston and back of pads?

Just did my front brake pads yesterday. Wear Ever Golds.
Friend of mine told me he never puts grease between the back of the pads and the piston and has never had any issues. So I did not put any grease on them. I did a search around the web this morning and find differing opinions about the topic. Several right-ups I read say to use high pressure molly grease on the backs of the pads and on the clips. I drove about 20 miles with the new pads yesterday and didn't feel or hear anything unusual. Should I by worried or should I just leave well enough alone? Is the grease really necessary and if so, what's a good product? Any feedback would be great.

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Old 04-21-2012, 05:32 AM   #2
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No...... Never heard of it honestly

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Old 04-21-2012, 05:39 AM   #3
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Apparently it's pretty common practice and some brake pad manufacturers provide a small packet of grease with their pads. Mine didn't become with any though...

Just to be clear, I'm NOT talking about putting grease between the pad friction surface and the rotor of course.
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Old 04-21-2012, 05:47 AM   #4
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Sure your not mistaking anti-seize for grease? Most brake pad companies include a little Permatex DBQ that dries between the shim and pad backing. Anti-seize was used some time ago on friction clips, but is rarely used any more. As hot as brake pads get, most greases would liquify and could get between the pad and rotor. Grease also attracks dirt and that dirt an cause extra wear on the piston dust seal. Grease, never ever a good idea.
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Old 04-21-2012, 05:51 AM   #5
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Check out this write up for example. Brake Pad Replacement Using Hawk Brake Pads - JeepForum.com

Scroll down a bit and you'll see what I'm talking about.
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Old 04-21-2012, 06:36 AM   #6
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Just to be clear, I'm NOT talking about putting grease between the pad friction surface and the rotor of course.
Co-worker did just that on his minivan
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:50 AM   #7
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It was a practice that was used in the past to keep the brakes from squealing when applied; the accumulation of dust between the pad and the puck was the cause of a harmonic squealing. Instead of grease, I used to have to use a product from Permatex that was sprayed on the backs of the pads on a 1978 Honda 750. I do not think it is necessary on modern systems though.
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:18 AM   #8
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I had a caliper seize up on me on the driver side rear. I put it into the shop to have it taken care of. $700.00 later with new calipers, pads, and rotors all is fine now. I'm wondering if it was the slides that seized or if it was the piston. Seems logical to be the slides. For future reference when I start to do my own repairs it seems logical to closely inspect the slides for binding. Possibly clean them up with some emery cloth? And look closely at the pads for smoothness on the contact points for the slides? I've only done a pad replacement once and when I did I just replaced them but that was when I was young and hadn't had any experience with grumpy brakes.
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Old 04-22-2012, 03:14 AM   #9
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700 bucks to replace all that? Please bring me your cars/trucks/jeeps

I don't charge enough apparently. 100 bucks to do rear and front pads (labor) then 10 per rotor. Life time warrenty on pads as well.
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Old 04-22-2012, 08:01 AM   #10
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700 bucks to replace all that? Please bring me your cars/trucks/jeeps

I don't charge enough apparently. 100 bucks to do rear and front pads (labor) then 10 per rotor. Life time warrenty on pads as well.
That included the labor to install. I can't imagine the rotors and calipers were too cheap. I think the dealer would have been way over that.

Were is your shop? If in Western Mass, I'd check you out.
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:05 AM   #11
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Yes, a little pac of grease that comes with the pads. I don't think I have ever bought pads and and they didn't have the little pac of grease. (Maybe back in the 70's.) You put it on the back of the pad where it contacts the piston. It supposed to stop the squeeking caused by vibrations where there is metal to metal contact. Problem is like chim-chim7 said the heat liquifies it. Then after driving in a good rain storm or two its all gone. If you do have problems with squeeking thats probably when you start to hear your breaks talk to you. All that being said; IMO, if Im going to trust the product enough to buy it Im going to follow the instructions.
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:20 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n
I had a caliper seize up on me on the driver side rear. I put it into the shop to have it taken care of. $700.00 later with new calipers, pads, and rotors all is fine now. I'm wondering if it was the slides that seized or if it was the piston. Seems logical to be the slides. For future reference when I start to do my own repairs it seems logical to closely inspect the slides for binding. Possibly clean them up with some emery cloth? And look closely at the pads for smoothness on the contact points for the slides? I've only done a pad replacement once and when I did I just replaced them but that was when I was young and hadn't had any experience with grumpy brakes.
Sometimes the backing plates in which the brake pad material is riveted too will bust a rivet and then it wont sit flush anymore, in which the pad will drag the rotor and be the same feeling and affect as a seized caliper.
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Old 04-22-2012, 09:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n

That included the labor to install. I can't imagine the rotors and calipers were too cheap. I think the dealer would have been way over that.

Were is your shop? If in Western Mass, I'd check you out.
I'm in NC. But calipers are 44-57 and rotors are 30-40 bucks lol
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:05 AM   #14
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I'm in NC. But calipers are 44-57 and rotors are 30-40 bucks lol
Well, like I said, the dealer price would almost certainly be more. I pine for the days when I have enough time to do these things for myself. If the caliper got stuck over the summer, I would have pulled it apart and replaced them myself. Can't predict when things like that will happen.

I don't think that the pad came undone like the post above speculated. The caliper was pretty hung up as it produced quite a lot of heat.
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:10 AM   #15
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Getting back to one of my original questions, is there any treatment for the slides while replacing the pads/rotors? How should they look? How are they cleaned? Do the contact points on the pads need any attention if they are not smooth? What are the general recommendations for the slides to provide good service through to the next replacement of pads.
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n

Well, like I said, the dealer price would almost certainly be more. I pine for the days when I have enough time to do these things for myself. If the caliper got stuck over the summer, I would have pulled it apart and replaced them myself. Can't predict when things like that will happen.

I don't think that the pad came undone like the post above speculated. The caliper was pretty hung up as it produced quite a lot of heat.
I had the same feelings but the piston on the caliper was free but after looking it was the pad, I could smell it and feel the tremendous heat off of it. Just giving my problem I had, to maybe keep that in mind if it ever happens again.
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:55 AM   #17
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I had the same feelings but the piston on the caliper was free but after looking it was the pad, I could smell it and feel the tremendous heat off of it. Just giving my problem I had, to maybe keep that in mind if it ever happens again.
Hmmm if it were that, I wonder if the brake job I had done just prior to this problem could have had something to do with this problem. This is where doing it yourself can be much more beneficial. Nobody there to cover up your mistakes but your yourself.
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Old 04-22-2012, 12:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jk'n

Hmmm if it were that, I wonder if the brake job I had done just prior to this problem could have had something to do with this problem. This is where doing it yourself can be much more beneficial. Nobody there to cover up your mistakes but your yourself.
Not saying pads do this often but im sure I am not the only one in which the rivets have been flawed from the China factory lol.

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