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Old 10-26-2012, 06:14 PM   #1
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Gusset/Trusses/Sleeve Recommendations?

Hello WF

I am planning on putting 37 inch tires on to my Jeep and I was wondering what Gussets, Trusses and sleeves are recommended?

Can you guys tell me what brand you guys recommend and a specific link to where can I buy them? Are there any full kits rather than looking for each piece individually?

Thanks in advance.

I haven't filled out my profile yet but if it matters I have 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon.

Also while I have a thread started... What brand do you guys recommend I go with when I regear my drivetrain? Any info on that would be helpful as well.

Thanks in advance.

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Old 10-26-2012, 06:22 PM   #2
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I have the Evo gusset kit. They are pretty nice and welded on pretty easily. I also ordered Nitro axle sleeves. Haven't put those in yet but they look pretty nice. I always deal with Northridge 4x4. Everyone there has always been very helpful with my questions even if I am not placing an order right then. They also just started selling some truss kits that look sweet. Check out there website- Northridge4x4.com

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Old 10-26-2012, 06:54 PM   #3
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I have Synergy C gussets, Synergy front LCA skids, and EVO rear LCA skids. None have been welded yet, but that is in the near-term plans. Teraflex and Artec are two other manufacturers of axles reinforcements and protection.
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:40 PM   #4
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I had the Evo off road gussets and 44 magnum sleeves installed in mine. Great job done by the guys that did the work. I shouldn't have to worry about anything on the front for awhile now. Next is the duelly d2 lights and the front bumper.
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:44 PM   #5
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We're having the Artec front axle armor kit welded in now, should be ready to pick up Monday: Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT

From my research this will be better than sleeves, time will tell.
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrh3
We're having the Artec front axle armor kit welded in now, should be ready to pick up Monday: Artec JK Front Axle ARMOR KIT

From my research this will be better than sleeves, time will tell.
What is it that makes you say they are better then sleeves? Stronger yeah but better I don't know. (honest question here)
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:51 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WatchThis!

What is it that makes you say they are better then sleeves? Stronger yeah but better I don't know. (honest question here)
X2

I think that truss is overkill for what most do.
Watchthis this doesn't include you
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:13 AM   #8
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Overkill is what I'm all about, I only want to do something once. Stronger=Better for me. Sleeves make the axle tube harder to damage but don't provide the support across the width of the axle that a properly engineered truss does, I read where several sleeve owners had still bent or broken their axle housing at the differential. Sleeves also limit axle selection but really, I doubt I will ever go to a 35 spline axle.

Bottom line is I don't want to worry about a bent axle and the system from Artec was the best choice for me, YMMV.

I doubt on my wife's Jeep we will ever lift or go bigger then 33" tires so in my application it probably is overkill, but the OP is asking about the best option for 37" tires where it might not be overkill but stronger than sleeves and keep their axle from smiling.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:25 AM   #9
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Ok so I'm going to order that Artec kit that wrh3 mentioned. I'm going to be getting someone to weld it on but I was wondering what would be the best order to do things.

Here is what I have right now:
-A lift kit
-A set of 37 inch tires
- Ordering the Artec kit
- Ordering 4.88 differentials.

Should I get these welded before or after the differentials? Does it make a difference and what would be easier?

Also one last quick question might seem a little stupid, but do I need to do anything to reinforce the rear or is it pretty much well of with out anything?
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:29 AM   #10
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Also I kind of lied in the post directly above

I haven't ordered any new gears... I was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on the brand to go with? I have a 2012 Automatic and I was planning on 4.88 anyone know of any gears that are compatible and hold up well?

Thanks a lot in advance!
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:42 AM   #11
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I can't speak on the gears but on doing my research (this thread and several others, as well as other sources) on beefing up my front axle, I believe I've broken things down to more bitesized portions. Granted, all situations are different but this is what would fit any situations someone like me would encounter. I have a 2007 JKU, currently with 35" tires and it is 90% DD and 10% off road (light to moderate)
  1. 33" tires = Stock axle is fine for DD and light to moderate off-roading. For rock crawling, should consider gussets (the armor that goes on the axle "Cs")
  2. 35" tires = Stock axle is fine as DD but for light off roading should install gussets. For moderate off roading, should install trusses (armor installed to the outside of the axle). For rock crawling, should consider sleeves (tubing that goes inside the axle)
  3. 37" tires and up = DD should at least put on gussets and any off roading should have trusses and sleeves.
Then things come down to the money:

I have flipped back and forth on how I am going to beef up my axle for my 35" tires. I was figuring the Artec stuff was overkill for my needs and could save money going with gussets and sleeves.

Well . . .

Looking at Synergy parts for example, I found I could get sleeves and gussets for $165. Then I saw that for an additional $35 I could get control arm armor.

And that brings the total to $200.

So why not spend $250 and re-enforce my axle for anything I might encounter?

Add to the fact that the shipping was cheap (granted I am in the same state), I'm sold. In fact I placed my order but they are currently on back order but should have them in a week or so.



I'll be interested in the replies you get on gears.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:44 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beastmaster
I can't speak on the gears but on doing my research (this thread and several others, as well as other sources) on beefing up my front axle, I believe I've broken things down to more bitesized portions. Granted, all situations are different but this is what would fit any situations someone like me would encounter. I have a 2007 JKU, currently with 35" tires and it is 90% DD and 10% off road (light to moderate)[*]33" tires = Stock axle is fine for DD and light to moderate off-roading. For rock crawling, should consider gussets (the armor that goes on the axle "Cs")[*]35" tires = Stock axle is fine as DD but for light off roading should install gussets. For moderate off roading, should install trusses (armor installed to the outside of the axle). For rock crawling, should consider sleeves (tubing that goes inside the axle)[*]37" tires and up = DD should at least put on gussets and any off roading should have trusses and sleeves.
Then things come down to the money:

I have flipped back and forth on how I am going to beef up my axle for my 35" tires. I was figuring the Artec stuff was overkill for my needs and could save money going with gussets and sleeves.

Well . . .

Looking at Synergy parts for example, I found I could get sleeves and gussets for $165. Then I saw that for an additional $35 I could get control arm armor.

And that brings the total to $200.

So why not spend $250 and re-enforce my axle for anything I might encounter?

Add to the fact that the shipping was cheap (granted I am in the same state), I'm sold. In fact I placed my order but they are currently on back order but should have them in a week or so.
Then the install/welding if you don't have the skill.
Don't they recommend the axle removed for best results ?
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:50 AM   #13
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Then the install/welding if you don't have the skill.
Don't they recommend the axle removed for best results ?
I'm getting my gussets and front/rear LCA skids welded on in a couple hours. I'll let you know how it goes since we're not removing the axle. I'll remove the LCA and shocks from their pockets to weld the LCA skids. And we'll remove the springs to do the gusset welds.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kramer2k

I'm getting my gussets and front/rear LCA skids welded on in a couple hours. I'll let you know how it goes since we're not removing the axle. I'll remove the LCA and shocks from their pockets to weld the LCA skids. And we'll remove the springs to do the gusset welds.


As for as gussets. Only concern is toasting the factory ball joints.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:53 AM   #15
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As for as gussets. Only concern is toasting the factory ball joints.
Well, scratch that project for today. My welder is grilling out and enjoying the GA-FL football game today. It was a last minute thing calling him, but it will have to be done Monday I suppose.

To avoid cooking the ball joints we'll just lay down a weld, cool it, then move to the other side. We'll alternate back and forth so as to avoid heating them up too much. We'll see how it goes. If it goes bad, hello Synergy ball joints.
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:03 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by kramer2k
Well, scratch that project for today. My welder is grilling out and enjoying the GA-FL football game today. It was a last minute thing calling him, but it will have to be done Monday I suppose.

To avoid cooking the ball joints we'll just lay down a weld, cool it, then move to the other side. We'll alternate back and forth so as to avoid heating them up too much. We'll see how it goes. If it goes bad, hello Synergy ball joints.
Use a soaked wash cloth and cover the joints. Keep it soaked,
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kramer2k

I'm getting my gussets and front/rear LCA skids welded on in a couple hours. I'll let you know how it goes since we're not removing the axle. I'll remove the LCA and shocks from their pockets to weld the LCA skids. And we'll remove the springs to do the gusset welds.
I can't remember which skids you went with but the guys who did mine ended up drilling 2 holes in them to drain - the Evo ones are open in the back and will completely puddle water/mud/crap. Almost seems like a design flaw. Anyway, something to consider depending on the design of yours.
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:56 PM   #18
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Wouldn't bolt on CA skids preform just as well. Easily removed as well?
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sueby

I can't remember which skids you went with but the guys who did mine ended up drilling 2 holes in them to drain - the Evo ones are open in the back and will completely puddle water/mud/crap. Almost seems like a design flaw. Anyway, something to consider depending on the design of yours.
I went with Synergy front LCA skids and EVO rear LCA skids. That's a good tip about a hole. I'll drill a couple holes after we're done. Could you post a picture showing where they drilled?

First off, LMFAO at your tire balancer avatar Ken!

I wanted a strong weld-on skid as opposed to a bolt on. I see no reason to remove them once they're on.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:05 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by kramer2k

I went with Synergy front LCA skids and EVO rear LCA skids. That's a good tip about a hole. I'll drill a couple holes after we're done. Could you post a picture showing where they drilled?

First off, LMFAO at your tire balancer avatar Ken!

I wanted a strong weld-on skid as opposed to a bolt on. I see no reason to remove them once they're on.
Lmao - i couldnt tell what his avi was! I will get a pic for you - its kinda dark here but I'll see.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:07 PM   #21
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We install the EVO sleeves and gussets on a regular basis. They, IMO, are the best choice for the sleeves and gussets. They can be welded on with the diff in the jeep, drilling all the plug weld holes is the most challenging part of not pulling the diff. Synergy makes the best fitting front LCA skids, and EVO makes the best fitting and best coverage for the rears. All LCA skids need to be welded on, test fit them before you start, and if rocks have chewed up the LCA mounts, grind and cut as necessary to make the skid fit tight.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:20 PM   #22
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Then the install/welding if you don't have the skill.
Don't they recommend the axle removed for best results ?
This is true, especially if you are going for the full armor kit.

Quote:
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As for as gussets. Only concern is toasting the factory ball joints.
I'm taking the opportunity to upgrade my ball joints too.
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:16 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by wrh3
Overkill is what I'm all about, I only want to do something once. Stronger=Better for me. Sleeves make the axle tube harder to damage but don't provide the support across the width of the axle that a properly engineered truss does, I read where several sleeve owners had still bent or broken their axle housing at the differential. Sleeves also limit axle selection but really, I doubt I will ever go to a 35 spline axle.

Bottom line is I don't want to worry about a bent axle and the system from Artec was the best choice for me, YMMV.

I doubt on my wife's Jeep we will ever lift or go bigger then 33" tires so in my application it probably is overkill, but the OP is asking about the best option for 37" tires where it might not be overkill but stronger than sleeves and keep their axle from smiling.
I am a big believer in overkill myself. I went with the pressed in sleeves and fabed up a truss on the long tube side of the front. I can see a few issues with the artic kit that someone might run into on down the road.
Say you wanted to add hydraulic assets later on. It would be a pain to mount it to the axle with that kit installed. And I am not to sure if it would hold up if you started trailering your jeep often. It might hold up fine but then again booming it down might bend the truss down and out?

I wheel with and around Jk's with only sleeves and a small truss and haven't seen any issues yet. And trust me we beat the hell out of them.
I am trying to talk myself out of stepping up to at least 40's next time I buy tires. Don't really want to go to 35 spines since I am looking at building 14 bolt axles later on down the road. If you are wheeling with anything over 37's or 38's you are going to run into other issues besides bent tubes that are going to lead to axle failure.
I wouldn't be afraid to wheel any size tire up to a 42 on a D44 that are guessed, sleeved, and had a small truss added to it. That is if you are not wheeling hard enough that you are blowing lockers, snapping shafts and breaking ring and pinions.

Now if you think you might be jumping your jeep then this kit would be a damn good start at beeping it up.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:27 PM   #24
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Is all this axle modification really necessary for the average off roader? I have ordered the Synergy gussets. I have a set of 35 inch Falken WildPeaks I will be using. These are 10 pounds heavier than the stock Rubicon tire and wheel. I have two other Jeeps set up for heavier duty rock crawling. CJ runs a Dana 30 (chromos, 4:56, and detorit w/ a 36 inch swamper) and the YJ has a Dana 44 front (chromos, CTM, 5:13 w/locrite 38 inch swampers), neither have bent tubes or C's. I compared the C's to my 2013 Rubicon. The new Jeep appears to have C's that have a taller profile than the other axles. However, the tube is 0.25 inches thick on the Dana 44 JK axle. It would take quite a hit to bend the axle tube.

The taller profile C may be more susceptible to bending moments. Really, the upper C is all that I think needs any support. I am most sure that for the normal wheeling (Jeep Jamboree every now and then) the gusset will be quite enough support.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:43 PM   #25
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I am a big believer in overkill myself. I went with the pressed in sleeves and fabed up a truss on the long tube side of the front. I can see a few issues with the artic kit that someone might run into on down the road.
Say you wanted to add hydraulic assets later on. It would be a pain to mount it to the axle with that kit installed. And I am not to sure if it would hold up if you started trailering your jeep often. It might hold up fine but then again booming it down might bend the truss down and out?

I wheel with and around Jk's with only sleeves and a small truss and haven't seen any issues yet. And trust me we beat the hell out of them.
I am trying to talk myself out of stepping up to at least 40's next time I buy tires. Don't really want to go to 35 spines since I am looking at building 14 bolt axles later on down the road. If you are wheeling with anything over 37's or 38's you are going to run into other issues besides bent tubes that are going to lead to axle failure.
I wouldn't be afraid to wheel any size tire up to a 42 on a D44 that are guessed, sleeved, and had a small truss added to it. That is if you are not wheeling hard enough that you are blowing lockers, snapping shafts and breaking ring and pinions.

Now if you think you might be jumping your jeep then this kit would be a damn good start at beeping it up.
Funny that this thread came back up....... I did blow my front locker and trashed my R&P. So I am upgrading to a 35 spline ARB setup since it will be a while till I can build a set of tons.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:06 PM   #26
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Installed the AEV 2.5 inch lift with Sway Bar brackets. These brackets are made to fit in a C around the axle tube next to the spring perch. I have the terraflex C-gusset supports to weld on. With the AEV lift sway bar brackets the gussets will not slide into place. You have a choice trim the lift bracket and weld it to the axle tube or trim the gusset to shorten it enough to clear the bracket. AEV suggest triming the bracket and welding it to the tube. I have not decided how I will do it yet. You may be able to hit the end of the gusset with the grinder for fitment.
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Old 05-23-2013, 05:46 PM   #27
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Is all this axle modification really necessary for the average off roader? I have ordered the Synergy gussets. I have a set of 35 inch Falken WildPeaks I will be using. These are 10 pounds heavier than the stock Rubicon tire and wheel. I have two other Jeeps set up for heavier duty rock crawling. CJ runs a Dana 30 (chromos, 4:56, and detorit w/ a 36 inch swamper) and the YJ has a Dana 44 front (chromos, CTM, 5:13 w/locrite 38 inch swampers), neither have bent tubes or C's. I compared the C's to my 2013 Rubicon. The new Jeep appears to have C's that have a taller profile than the other axles. However, the tube is 0.25 inches thick on the Dana 44 JK axle. It would take quite a hit to bend the axle tube.

The taller profile C may be more susceptible to bending moments. Really, the upper C is all that I think needs any support. I am most sure that for the normal wheeling (Jeep Jamboree every now and then) the gusset will be quite enough support.
From what I've read the JK front axle was lengthened by something like 5 inches, creating a greater need for the sleeves and gussets over previous models. I have a 2.5inch Mopar kit (Rubicon Express rebranded) and put 35's on it, going to 37s next. I did the Teraflex S&G kit thinking six or seven hundred up front is probably quite a bit cheaper than replacing or straightening later, and the strength gain is significant.

I was originally looking at the Artec Truss setup, the pricing on the parts is very reasonable. I hopped off a link from their site to a local shop to talk welding prices and that's where the cost lies. You have to drop the axle off the rig (S&G kits can be installed without doing so) and there is quite a bit of weld/wait time balancing so the different metals cool properly without causing bends. I had the money ready to go on this option but the shop guys asked if I was racing. They're opinion was "sure, the Artec trusses are absolutely the strongest way to go and they look awesome, but if you're doing anything outside of racing and jumping the S&G kit will get the job done and save you $600 or so". Of course, that $600 still left the pocket, had to get some rock sliders
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:01 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Kennyksu View Post
From what I've read the JK front axle was lengthened by something like 5 inches, creating a greater need for the sleeves and gussets over previous models. I have a 2.5inch Mopar kit (Rubicon Express rebranded) and put 35's on it, going to 37s next. I did the Teraflex S&G kit thinking six or seven hundred up front is probably quite a bit cheaper than replacing or straightening later, and the strength gain is significant.

I was originally looking at the Artec Truss setup, the pricing on the parts is very reasonable. I hopped off a link from their site to a local shop to talk welding prices and that's where the cost lies. You have to drop the axle off the rig (S&G kits can be installed without doing so) and there is quite a bit of weld/wait time balancing so the different metals cool properly without causing bends. I had the money ready to go on this option but the shop guys asked if I was racing. They're opinion was "sure, the Artec trusses are absolutely the strongest way to go and they look awesome, but if you're doing anything outside of racing and jumping the S&G kit will get the job done and save you $600 or so". Of course, that $600 still left the pocket, had to get some rock sliders
where is $600 coming from? you sir, need to find a friend with a welder.
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Old 05-23-2013, 06:45 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Tweak View Post
where is $600 coming from? you sir, need to find a friend with a welder.

I hear ya, or an electrician. I have a nice stick old school stick welder in the three car garage and no outlet!!! Just haven't had the time since we moved in.
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Old 06-19-2013, 01:00 PM   #30
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