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Old 07-23-2012, 09:12 AM   #61
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What band(s) is the XPR 4550 going to be used on? I'm not familiar with the rig and the specs page only says "UHF."

Tks.

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Old 07-23-2012, 09:54 AM   #62
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Did I buy the right parts?

Hello all, on my old truck I had a magnetic mount antenna that went on the roof connected to my Cobra CB. Now that I have my Jeep, I got and installed the Rugged Ridge CB Antenna Mount. And I ordered the following 3 parts. Did I order the right parts? Will I need anything else? I do not have a HAM store close, so I want to make sure I have everything before my trip. All this talk about N and PL connectors got me worries since I know very little about these things. Thanks!!!

4' FIRESTICK II TUNABLE TIP
STUD W/SO-239 CONNECTOR
Firestik SS-3H Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Antenna Spring

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Old 07-23-2012, 11:21 AM   #63
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You're also going to need 10-12 ft (maybe more depending upon location of radio) of coax (RG-58 type) to connect the antenna to the CB radio. You can order it with or without PL-259's already attached. Something like: Amazon.com: 12Ft. CB Coax Cable Male PL259 to Male PL259: Car Electronics The PL-259 is just the plug attached to the cable that screws on to the back of the radio and to the bottom of your antenna (your STUD W/SO-239 CONNECTOR). If you haven't soldered PL-259s before, it would be best to find someone who has experience with these. They're not that hard, but also, they are VERY easy to screw up. I've been working with PL-259s for over 30 years and I still mess one up occasionally.

Another problem with coax that already has the PL-259s attached is routing the coax from the antenna to the radio. Getting the coax through the vehicle's body requires a larger hole.
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Old 07-23-2012, 03:52 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n6hal View Post
What band(s) is the XPR 4550 going to be used on? I'm not familiar with the rig and the specs page only says "UHF."

Tks.

I believe it is UHF/VHF but I could be wrong. We'll be using them on federal frequencies (for Emergency Disaster Response)
The website has the following :
Frequency rangeVHF: 136-174 MHz. UHF: 403–470 MHzFrequency bandVHF, UHFPower levels1-25W, 25-45W (VHF); 1-25W, 25-40W (UHF)
http://www.motorola.com/web/Business...Spec_Sheet.pdf

Does that help at all?
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Old 07-24-2012, 07:58 PM   #65
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silver:

Sorry for the delay. I had to find this posting again

Here's what I got:

Requirements:

XPR - 150-160MHz, possible 450+ MHz
'710A - 2M & 70 cm
'996 - 25 MHz > 1.2 GHz
CB - 26-27 MHz

Because the JK does not have a metal roof that you can use as a ground plane, you REALLY need to use antennas that do not require a ground plane or radial system. For the most part, these are considered 1/2 wavelength antennas. You can also use "element phasing." These antennas are made using something like 1/4 wave on top of a 5/8 wave.

Here's some very basic antenna theory. Using a 1/4 or 5/8 wave antenna requires a ground plane in order to bring the RF signal down closer to the horizon. This is required for long range simplex mobile and terrestrial contacts. Without the ground plane, most of your signal is going up at 30, 40 even 50 degree angle. This is good if you're trying to reach a mountain top repeater and you are deep in a valley. Not good when the station you want to reach is 20 miles away on the horizon.

By placing a groundwave-type antenna on a corner fender or spare tire, you do get some ground plane action, but only in the direction of the metal body. IOW, if you place your antenna on the left rear corner of you JK, the majority of your signal will be in a line FROM your left rear to right front. However, if you use a 1/2 wave or element phased antenna on a corner of your vehicle, you will get a much better/closer omni coverage at a good radiation angle above the horizon.

Getting back to your question, I believe your main concern should be with overloading the receiver on the radios not transmitting. Using 50 watts on your '710A for transmit, the antennas for your scanner and XPR rigs will send some of that to their respective receivers and possibly burn out a few components. A way around this is to use band-pass filters or notch filters. These filters cost $50 - $100, and some of them are the size of your radio, but they do a terrific job. Let's say you get interference from a paging system on 152.175 MHz. Lots of these systems bleed over to our 2M band. A notch filter tuned for 152.150 - 152.200 will make those annoying pages totally disappear. By putting a bandpass filter on your '710A, you can allow ONLY 2M and 70cm frequencies to reach your radio, thereby protecting it from other strong signals on nearby frequencies.

The scanner is a tough one. You need to be able to receive a very wide frequency spread. Bandpass and notch filters are really not suitable for scanners. One thought is to get a BNC chassis mount, mount it upside down to the sound bar and then hook up a 12"-18" scanner rubber duck antenna.

You might also be able to employ a duplexer/diplexer arrangement. If your '710A is only going to be used on 2M (Voice and APRS) and if your XPR is only going to be used on 300 MHz and above (such as the 450 MHz public service freqs), you could use a dual band antenna and then use the duplexer to split the signal; the 170MHz and below output going to your '710A rig and the 300 MHz and above output going to the XPR rig. These duplexers will usually handle 200 watts or more, so you could transmit on 2M with 200 watts and none of that signal will make it across to the 300 MHz output side, thereby protecting your 300 + Mhz rig.

Antenna locations: I think I would place the CB antenna on a spare tire type mount. That antenna is larger, heavier and needs a very robust mount. I'd go with a corner mount and 1/2 wave antenna for the left rear corner. You'll probably want to do something like what db1yg did in posting # 8 on this thread for the right rear corner. This keeps the antenna inside protected from trees and kids who like to pull on things as they walk by. If at all possible, a rubber duck for the scanner. If you need better range for the scanner, then get a mobile scanner antenna and pick a spot on the sheet metal. Not much else you can do.

Good Luck ! ! !

73
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:34 AM   #66
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Ok - another weekend and time to make progress on my ham radio install

after reading up on threads - it seems the easiest way to get a wire from the cabin to the engine compartment is via a foam covered hole in the either dash side panel.

the side panel is easy to remove - I had a plastic case separator for an iPhone repair, a small screwdriver will do as well. the side panel popped off, and I pushed a hanger through to the the engine compartment. it's kind of cheating I think , because the hanger actually comes out under the hood, between the hood and the inside part of the cowl. I will post photos when done. now I have a string going thru, and will go to the auto store to get a long pair of wires and O connectors to attach to the battery. might eventually install an SPOD this way. but I should be done tonight with radio!
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Old 07-29-2012, 05:27 AM   #67
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I gave my power install its own thread:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/ham...in-176835.html
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:24 PM   #68
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I tried going through the foam and could not make it work. Ended up using the hole next to the clutch with the rubber cover. Pushed the wire right through it, then routed it to the battery.
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:46 PM   #69
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n6hal,
Sorry for the delay.
Thanks!! Would using 1/4 wavw antennas work for the scanner, HAM, and XPR? I was looking at what db1yg did with his antenna(post 8). I love the idea of doing one on each side and then a 1/4 wave on the cowl of the hood, and then the CB antenna behind the tire carrier. Do you think this would work? Or heck... Anywhere to find antennas for these small enough to mount on the rollbars below the soft top? lol Anyways, Thanks for all of your help! I really appreciate it!


Quote:
Originally Posted by n6hal View Post
silver:

Sorry for the delay. I had to find this posting again

Here's what I got:

Requirements:

XPR - 150-160MHz, possible 450+ MHz
'710A - 2M & 70 cm
'996 - 25 MHz > 1.2 GHz
CB - 26-27 MHz

Because the JK does not have a metal roof that you can use as a ground plane, you REALLY need to use antennas that do not require a ground plane or radial system. For the most part, these are considered 1/2 wavelength antennas. You can also use "element phasing." These antennas are made using something like 1/4 wave on top of a 5/8 wave.

Here's some very basic antenna theory. Using a 1/4 or 5/8 wave antenna requires a ground plane in order to bring the RF signal down closer to the horizon. This is required for long range simplex mobile and terrestrial contacts. Without the ground plane, most of your signal is going up at 30, 40 even 50 degree angle. This is good if you're trying to reach a mountain top repeater and you are deep in a valley. Not good when the station you want to reach is 20 miles away on the horizon.

By placing a groundwave-type antenna on a corner fender or spare tire, you do get some ground plane action, but only in the direction of the metal body. IOW, if you place your antenna on the left rear corner of you JK, the majority of your signal will be in a line FROM your left rear to right front. However, if you use a 1/2 wave or element phased antenna on a corner of your vehicle, you will get a much better/closer omni coverage at a good radiation angle above the horizon.

Getting back to your question, I believe your main concern should be with overloading the receiver on the radios not transmitting. Using 50 watts on your '710A for transmit, the antennas for your scanner and XPR rigs will send some of that to their respective receivers and possibly burn out a few components. A way around this is to use band-pass filters or notch filters. These filters cost $50 - $100, and some of them are the size of your radio, but they do a terrific job. Let's say you get interference from a paging system on 152.175 MHz. Lots of these systems bleed over to our 2M band. A notch filter tuned for 152.150 - 152.200 will make those annoying pages totally disappear. By putting a bandpass filter on your '710A, you can allow ONLY 2M and 70cm frequencies to reach your radio, thereby protecting it from other strong signals on nearby frequencies.

The scanner is a tough one. You need to be able to receive a very wide frequency spread. Bandpass and notch filters are really not suitable for scanners. One thought is to get a BNC chassis mount, mount it upside down to the sound bar and then hook up a 12"-18" scanner rubber duck antenna.

You might also be able to employ a duplexer/diplexer arrangement. If your '710A is only going to be used on 2M (Voice and APRS) and if your XPR is only going to be used on 300 MHz and above (such as the 450 MHz public service freqs), you could use a dual band antenna and then use the duplexer to split the signal; the 170MHz and below output going to your '710A rig and the 300 MHz and above output going to the XPR rig. These duplexers will usually handle 200 watts or more, so you could transmit on 2M with 200 watts and none of that signal will make it across to the 300 MHz output side, thereby protecting your 300 + Mhz rig.

Antenna locations: I think I would place the CB antenna on a spare tire type mount. That antenna is larger, heavier and needs a very robust mount. I'd go with a corner mount and 1/2 wave antenna for the left rear corner. You'll probably want to do something like what db1yg did in posting # 8 on this thread for the right rear corner. This keeps the antenna inside protected from trees and kids who like to pull on things as they walk by. If at all possible, a rubber duck for the scanner. If you need better range for the scanner, then get a mobile scanner antenna and pick a spot on the sheet metal. Not much else you can do.

Good Luck ! ! !

73
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:15 PM   #70
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The problem with installing antennas on our JKs is the lack of flat horizontal metal. 1/4 and 5/8 wave antennas NEED ground planes. For an ideal, omni directional radiation pattern, you need to place the vertical antenna in the center of some horizontal metal. Again, ideally, you should have at least 1/4 wavelength of horizontal metal in all directions. For 2M, that is around 19".

When you place an antenna that needs a ground plane on a corner of a vehicle, as you can figure out yourself, there is no ground plane in 270 degrees. Imagine that your antenna is in the middle of a circle and that your antenna is mounted on the left rear corner. You now have a metal ground plane directly ahead and swinging to the right until you reach 90 degrees at the right rear corner. Now you have no metal to the rear and left side of the antenna. This is going to cause most of your radiated signal to go in the direction of from the left rear corner to the right front corner. Very little of your signal will be transmitted in the other directions.

The antenna that was mentioned in post 8, the Comet SBB-2, is a 1/4 wave for 2M and 5/8 wave for 440. Definitely needs a ground plane to operate properly. Another issue with that particular location is the nearness of the rollbar and rear window gas strut. Both of those are going to be close enough to the antenna to distort the radiation pattern and probably mess with the SWR.

But what else can you do? If you need all of those antennas, which it appears you do, then try to follow the basic guidelines: Keep antennas separated as much as possible; try to use 1/2 wave antennas which don't require ground planes; know the limitations of your system (you might need to reposition your vehicle in order to make your contact).

Good Luck.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:16 PM   #71
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Thought you guys might like to see the final location I chose for the head unit. I must admit I agonized over this one. I needed a location that was convenient but wouldn't bake the head unit and was somewhat discreet (it gets HOT on the to of the dash here in san antonio...and car break-ins are a huge concern here).

At first I was going to put it underneath the middle set of switches for the hazard lights but the double sided tape I used didn't hold, and I don't want to drill holes in the panels.

Finally I settled on an easy solution. I used double sided tape to affix it to the panel inside the net... I've never even used the net and between the tape and the elastic it doesn't budge. It's not easily noticed and for the most part its convenient...I do have to take my eyes off the road occasionally, but most of the adjustments I can make with the buttons on the mic. I can easily see my frequencies and activity.

I'm not super excited about the location I chose, but in all honesty I cannot find a location that would be better, and for the most part it is convenient and looks pretty good.

For the moment I have the radio underneath the drivers seat. I bought an external mic but I'm thinking twice about using it...surprisingly the internal speaker seems to be good enough to hear even while driving as long as the station I am talking to is somewhat clear. I may still install the external speaker...but where... I'm not so sure.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:50 PM   #72
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Nice install. I ABSOLUTELY agree with you in that it is VERY hard to find an acceptable place to mount a radio, even just a control head. As far as using an external speaker, I strongly recommend the Bearcat ESP-20. They can be loud when needed and they sound excellent for the voice frequencies. I have them in my Go-Box and in the JK. By mounting the speaker to the sound bar, it puts the audio right at my ear.

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I've been thinking about relocating my control head to the area just above the rear view mirror. I'm thinking of getting some 1.5" wide by 1/8" thick flat aluminum strip from Home Depot, cutting and bending it to fit under the footman loop at the top of the windshield. The bending will need to ensure it clears the hard top L lever that uses the footman loop and of course, not be low enough to be seen in the rear view mirror.

If your control cable is not long enough, just go to the local computer store and pick up a 10', 15', whatever length you need of CAT V ethernet extension cable. To ensure a clean control signal, place a clip-on ferrite core noise suppressor on each end of the ethernet cable. (Amazon search: ferrite core cord noise suppressor).

73
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:16 PM   #73
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I like your speaker location.... I had considered putting it on the front of the top sound bar but I would hit my head on it when I lean back, being 6'4". However, behind the sound bar could work.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:35 PM   #74
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Me too. I'm 6'3" and I'm always on the lookout for things that bang the head. I saw one posting where a guy mounted his CB immediately to the front of the sound bar. I hope it worked out for him, but I'd be afraid of adding some creases to my head.

Mounting the speaker was a bit of a PITA. I used fender washers inside the soundbar and nyloc nuts. I removed the interior light and used that hole to carefully slide the washers and nuts onto the bolts. Though once on and with everything tightened up, it is VERY sturdy.

I hot glued the speaker wire to the top of the sound bar to help prevent annoying wire rattle. I unzipped the roll bar padding and fished the wire down the bar to the radio mounted under the driver seat.

73
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:44 PM   #75
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Cool thanks! I'll let you know how it turns out...I also posted photos of how I routed the power wires to the battery on marc's thread
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Old 01-06-2013, 09:00 PM   #76
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Ok so change of plans...I got tired of taking my eyes off the road to make adjustments..also had a difficult time turning the top knobs, especially the inside ring. So I moved it above the rear view mirror, for the moment using double sided velcro tape until I can figure out a more permanent way to mount it there. The bracket that comes with the remote head bracket does not allow for a mount in this configuration. However, this location is FAR more convenient! If anyone has any ideas on how to mount it permanently at this location, I'd love to hear it. I don't mind drilling holes in the plastic since my wife works at a body shop and apparently they can restore the plastic to its original condition...
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Old 01-07-2013, 09:08 AM   #77
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I tried it there and did not like it, but everyone's different.

I unscrewed the footman loop above the mirror and used those screws to mount the remote head bracket. I ran the control cable under the window rubber/trim. This is in a 98, I don't know about your year. I know window trim has changed.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:38 PM   #78
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Thanks for the info....unfortunately I can't find any other location that I like better...My problem is the head unit doesn't have any mounting holes on the top, just on the back. Thinking I may have to drill my own holes into the plastic bracket for the head unit, but there is almost zero space between the bracket and the head unit and so screw/bolt head won't fit. Might just have to stick with the double sided velcro tape.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:45 AM   #79
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I used the holes in the back.

Found an old picture. Where the footman loop was.

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Old 02-14-2013, 08:36 PM   #80
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antenna mount

What is the brand and model of your antenna mount. I would like to get one



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Palms2Pines View Post
Totally agree with Hal about powering from battery. Also wanted to show the rig runner distribution panel I use in my set up. Makes it easy to power CB, GPS, 2 meter, and other toys from one source just don't exceed rated amperage.
Finally shot of my Comet lip/trunk mount antenna install - using a Diamond NR 770 antenna not shown.
See my install shots below.
KG6JRO

Attachment 139097

Powerwerx 45 amp fused 10 gauge wire.

Attachment 139098

Anderson Power Pole Rig Runner. 45 amp capacity.

Attachment 139099

Lip/trunk mount on drivers side hood.

Attachment 139100

Icom V8000 2 meter
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Old 05-09-2013, 06:53 PM   #81
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Installing a 2 meter radio in a Jeep Wrangler

I finally installed a Terraflex tail light antenna brackett on my 03 wrangler. Im a ham so I wanted an nmo mount for my Larsen antennas so I had to make the 3/8 stud mount hole bigger.Then I had to grind some metal off the bottom because the bracket is too thick for an nmo. I like the Larsen antennas because they are mostly a long flexible whip with just a small load at the bottom. Larsen has a different load for all the different bands, so I could just unscrew the 2 meter load and whip, and screw on a 27 mhz load and whip for a cb radio.
Ground is a major issue with any good antenna install, but I didnt want to drill the hole into the tub. Instead I used a dremmel to clean the paint from inside the tail light holes of the Terraflex bracket. I put some dialectric grease in the holes, and made sure the bracket was pushed down tight against the factory tail light boldts when I tightened them down. So far the ground is working well.
I made an overhead bracket for my Yaesu 2800 (you can see this on my garage page) so I ran the coax under the bottom of the soft top and up the roll cage. Then to the front with zip ties on the roll cage.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:42 AM   #82
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Quote:
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...I put some dialectric grease in the holes...
Dialectric grease is non-conductive. It acts as an insulator.

Wouldn't a conductive assembly grease be a better choice for a good ground?
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Old 05-24-2013, 02:27 AM   #83
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Here are a few pics of my install. I love the hood mount and it doesn't interfere with the hood being raised. It also made it convenient running the power and antenna wires through the same spot. I mounted the base unit and speaker under the dash to protect them from water and theft. The detachable faceplate is mounted above the rear view mirror making it easy to read and adjust the volume or channels too.



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Old 05-24-2013, 09:39 AM   #84
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Mike,

That hood mount looks great. Who makes it? Do you have a part number or can you direct me to a website for it?
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:54 AM   #85
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Mike,

That hood mount looks great. Who makes it? Do you have a part number or can you direct me to a website for it?
Thanks. The antenna mount is a Diamond K400SNMO and the antenna is a Larson NMO-2/70B. I have been very pleased with the results.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:36 PM   #86
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Quote:
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Attachment 139100

Icom V8000 2 meter
What bracket are you using to mount the radio?

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Old 05-28-2013, 01:03 PM   #87
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Mike 4462, I love the callsign on the hood. Very cool idea, it looks just like the Rubicon lettering. Nice work.
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:03 PM   #88
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What bracket are you using to mount the radio?

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The bracket that came with the radio.
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:06 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by Rigger007 View Post
Mike 4462, I love the callsign on the hood. Very cool idea, it looks just like the Rubicon lettering. Nice work.
Thank you. Pixeldecals.com did the custom hood stickers. I highly recommend them. Great people to work with.
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:06 PM   #90
Zed
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So i just passed my tech exam today! This is a great thread but I still need some advice. I'm running a 4 foot firestik for my CB off a rugged ridge spare tire mount. I was thinking of putting my ham antenna on the same mount attached to the hole on the opposite side of where I have my first antenna. Is this too close? It would allow me to route both coax wires and ground straps through the same entry points so would be convenient.

OR

Im thinking of the internal antenna mount melntioned early in the thread

OR

i could mount one with an under hood bracket though the antenna would be in front of one of my offroad lights mounted along my windshield

Ug... Decisions decisions. Any suggestions?

Fyi... Looking at this setup...

http://www.amazon.com/Yaesu-FT-7900R...bile+Dual-Band

With this....

http://www.amazon.com/BROWNING-BR-18...ref=pd_sim_e_4

I need a virtual Elmer LOL

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