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Old 07-28-2012, 06:42 PM   #1
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Ham Radio install - Power to the cabin

I was proud enough of my efforts to hook up a new ham radio that I thought it deserved it's own thread

1. Pop open driver side panel
2. Push hanger thru little foam filled hole
3. Draw wires back thru from engine compartment to cabin thru side panel hole
4. Connect to battery and ground
5. Tighten up wires and zip tie to secure
6. Close panel
7. Run power wires to radio under carpet etc

In the process you may need to strip wires, add O ring or split connector, bind wires with connectors or wire caps.

I still need to mount the radio (split body and head) to the side or back and hide the control wire to the head. All in all though I'm happy with the results so far

Anyone know how to remove the plastic panel on the floor next to the driver's door? I kind of decided to stop there for the day

Marc
KC9WIB
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:55 PM   #2
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Are you going to mount the screen somewhere permanent? Removable to help prevent theft?

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Old 07-28-2012, 09:02 PM   #3
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This is a Yaesu FTM-350AR and the screen is detachable
I am thinking about where to mount it and how to do so so I can take it out easily if I want to. Also thinking about where to mount the body. some people put it under the driver's seat , others mount on the side of the tub

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Are you going to mount the screen somewhere permanent? Removable to help prevent theft?
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:13 AM   #4
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I might suggest you enclose your power lines in wire loom. Just an ounce of prevention.
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:30 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Gary Palms2Pines View Post
I might suggest you enclose your power lines in wire loom. Just an ounce of prevention.
In the engine compartment or passenger or both ?
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:45 AM   #6
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Anywhere there is a chance the wires could rub the insulation off and create a short. Jeep fires are ugly. :-)
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc1230 View Post
This is a Yaesu FTM-350AR and the screen is detachable
I am thinking about where to mount it and how to do so so I can take it out easily if I want to. Also thinking about where to mount the body. some people put it under the driver's seat , others mount on the side of the tub
That's the exact unit I've been thinking about getting for mine. Hmm.

Where did you mount your antenna?
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metonymy

That's the exact unit I've been thinking about getting for mine. Hmm.

Where did you mount your antenna?
Here's my antenna install - good thread all the way. My reception is spectacular as far as I know

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/ham...ml#post2611744
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:09 PM   #9
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My pictures aren't as clean as yours...because my jeep is dirty. lol that being said, I totally agree with gary. Use wire loom through the engine compartment. Unfortunately the auto parts shop only had red so it looks odd, but its an advantage to you guys because you can easily see where I routed the wires in the picture. I elected not to use wire loom inside the passenger compartment--the wire is routed under the carpet and is not rubbing against any sharp metal objects so the risk is minimal. I used the access hole by the clutch to enter the engine compartment, and wired directly to the battery with two sizes of wire terminals. (I think thats what they are called). They fit perfectly. I also soldered on two extra pieces of wires and sealed the exposed wire with rubber tubing because the factory power wires weren't long enough. The white things you see poking out of the wire loom are for fuses--I chose to leave them exposed so I could easily replace the fuses if needed.
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:18 PM   #10
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Hi Akjay,

Nice installed. Hate to mention this, but you really should put the fuses as close to the battery as possible. I use holders similar to this:

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This fuse holder uses 10G wire and will handle up to 30A.

Here's a shot of my electrical connections. All wires run into looms shortly after leaving the battery. I plan on replacing the fuse holders that don't have a protective cover as soon as I get my order from Amazon.

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You may notice that one of the holders does not contain a fuse....yet. That is the power line going to my relays which will be controlling my aux LED lights (not installed yet).

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Old 07-30-2012, 10:49 PM   #11
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n6 I think you could benefit from that rig runner gary was talking about earlier... I am confused though... why would the distance from the battery affect whether the fuse burns out or not? or is that to prevent the wire from igniting? I'm not an electrical whiz, all I know is fuses are designed to burn out to prevent damage to sensitive components... what difference does location on the wire make?
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akjayintx
n6 I think you could benefit from that rig runner gary was talking about earlier... I am confused though... why would the distance from the battery affect whether the fuse burns out or not? or is that to prevent the wire from igniting? I'm not an electrical whiz, all I know is fuses are designed to burn out to prevent damage to sensitive components... what difference does location on the wire make?
When the fuse goes, everything from the power source to the blown fuse is still hot. BTW, you can have more than one fuse on a line. For instance, the pigtails of all my radios have fuses. Then there is another fuse at the RigRunner for each device plus a master RigRunner fuse. And finally another set of 40 amp fuses right at the battery terminals.
Anal? Yep, but I've never burned down my mobile ham shack. :-)
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:39 PM   #13
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Hey Akjay,

Gary is right. The main problem with a fuse being 5-6 feet away from the power source is that if that wire shorts to ground anywhere between the power source (battery) and the fuse, there is nothing to stop all that current from the battery to flow to ground, which in turn, gets that wire so hot it could melt. It could definitely ignite any combustible material touching or very close to that HOT wire.

I like the RigRunners. I have 2 in the shack and 1 in the Go-Box. But they're not waterproof so if you're going to use them in a mobile environment, the RigRunner needs to be inside the vehicle. I need multiple power outlets for items on the outside of the vehicle so that is why I went the route I did.
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Old 08-18-2012, 10:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Palms2Pines View Post
I might suggest you enclose your power lines in wire loom. Just an ounce of prevention.
I covered the wires in the engine compartment with wire conduit/loom - looks nice - thanks

now looking at how to remove the driver side plastic trim on the floor btw door opening and driver's seat to hide the rest of the wiring

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