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Old 03-30-2014, 09:21 PM   #1
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Harken hoist mount question

Thinking of ordering the harken hoist for our 14jku. My rafters run opposite of the directions. I can't use 3 rafters per board just one rafter per board and I'm attaching a pic from inside my attic to make sure that I do have the right rafters for this. Would hate to drop a new hardtop...
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:35 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by mxracer394 View Post
Thinking of ordering the harken hoist for our 14jku. My rafters run opposite of the directions. I can't use 3 rafters per board just one rafter per board and I'm attaching a pic from inside my attic to make sure that I do have the right rafters for this. Would hate to drop a new hardtop...
It has directions for both ways with it.

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Old 03-31-2014, 07:07 AM   #3
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Oh okay I didn't see it on the online directions
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:47 AM   #4
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I have a Harken hoist but the joists ran the correct way, where I could anchor each board at 3 attachment points. If they ran perpendicular I would have first installed a couple of 2x6 boards to the ceiling, perpendicular to the joists, and then attached the boards for the Harken to them.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:56 AM   #5
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I have a Harken hoist but the joists ran the correct way, where I could anchor each board at 3 attachment points. If they ran perpendicular I would have first installed a couple of 2x6 boards to the ceiling, perpendicular to the joists, and then attached the boards for the Harken to them.
That is exactly how I did mine. That is the method called "Alternate" in the Harken instructions. you'll need 2 2X6 running perpendicular to your joists/Truss, and one 2X4 mounted across the back of the 2X6s to mount the double pulley.

dp
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:59 AM   #6
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OP, if you're not knot inclined, here's a great video on how to tie the knots you need:



I did see I another video that I watched that they said to retraced figure 8 knot was complete without an overhand knot, so I threw one on the end, too. Harken doesn't mention that, but I figured with a $2000 top hanging up there it was worth the extra three seconds it took.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:07 AM   #7
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Thanks for the post. Fortunately I fairly familiar with knots since I'm on a rope rescue team at work. So there will be the alternate instructions included? So instead of 2 2x6 's I will also need a 2x4
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:13 AM   #8
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From looking at the pic above I can actually mount the 2x6's to 3 seperate rafters. I dunno if I got confused or what
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:16 AM   #9
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I can't get the dang top to hang straight on mine, it's always back heavy. I've adjusted the knots and straps like 50 times. I wonder if it's a 2dr vs 4dr thing, 'cuz of the glass and the wiper; the 4dr has a lot more top out in front.
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:18 AM   #10
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:19 AM   #11
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From looking at the pic above I can actually mount the 2x6's to 3 seperate rafters. I dunno if I got confused or what
Nevermind went back and read the instructions I guess I will have to do the alternate one
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:23 PM   #12
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I can't get the dang top to hang straight on mine, it's always back heavy. I've adjusted the knots and straps like 50 times. I wonder if it's a 2dr vs 4dr thing, 'cuz of the glass and the wiper; the 4dr has a lot more top out in front.
I'm assuming you have a 2-Door? Wanted to know for sure before making any suggestions.
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:33 PM   #13
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I can't get the dang top to hang straight on mine, it's always back heavy. I've adjusted the knots and straps like 50 times. I wonder if it's a 2dr vs 4dr thing, 'cuz of the glass and the wiper; the 4dr has a lot more top out in front.
For what it's worth, our JKU top hangs straight.
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:58 PM   #14
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Yeah, mine's a 2dr - it's definitely back-heavy. I do the whole "check the tension" thing to make sure it's equal on the front and the back, but it seems to slip back a bit no matter what. We're not talking a 45 degree angle, but enough to make dropping it back on a bit of a pain. Once the back hits the tub there's hardly enough weight in the front to get it the rest of the way down.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:34 PM   #15
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Yeah, mine's a 2dr - it's definitely back-heavy. I do the whole "check the tension" thing to make sure it's equal on the front and the back, but it seems to slip back a bit no matter what. We're not talking a 45 degree angle, but enough to make dropping it back on a bit of a pain. Once the back hits the tub there's hardly enough weight in the front to get it the rest of the way down.
Do you store the freedom panels on top? Would that help weight the front?
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:37 PM   #16
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Do you store the freedom panels on top? Would that help weight the front?
That's a thought, I might give that a shot. I'd have to figure out a way to secure 'em up there. Though I'm not sure it'd help much with the weight, 'cuz on a 2dr the freedom panels are about as long as the top is in the first place. It might just be more weight distributed across the whole thing instead of more toward the front.
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:43 PM   #17
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Sorry, I should probably stop 'helping' since we don't have a JK. LOL

Good luck though!
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Old 04-03-2014, 12:05 PM   #18
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Things to consider that may help you fix it:
1. The ropes all move the same distance ragardless of how the weight is distributed.
2. The ropes are "low stretch" (static ropes). So they don't change length based on the tension that is applied.
3. Each rope should hang at a 90 degree angle to your ceiling when the top is lifted (full load). Use a "plumb line" to determine your connections to the ceiling line up with the lift points of the hard top.
4. If all of your knots are tied correctly, then as soon as the required amount of upward force to lift the top is reached, the entire top should start moving at once. It wouldn't matter if one of the 4 ropes was lifting 1lb. and another is lifting 100lbs. The pulley system is a closed system, so the distance traveled at each connection point is the same regardless of force.

When you lift the top, does the front start coming up slightly before the rear? If so, then you need to adjust your knots (raise them higher in the back).

There is definitely a way to get it to lift just perfectly because.... SCIENCE!!
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Old 04-12-2014, 06:25 PM   #19
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Things to consider that may help you fix it:
1. The ropes all move the same distance ragardless of how the weight is distributed.
2. The ropes are "low stretch" (static ropes). So they don't change length based on the tension that is applied.
3. Each rope should hang at a 90 degree angle to your ceiling when the top is lifted (full load). Use a "plumb line" to determine your connections to the ceiling line up with the lift points of the hard top.
4. If all of your knots are tied correctly, then as soon as the required amount of upward force to lift the top is reached, the entire top should start moving at once. It wouldn't matter if one of the 4 ropes was lifting 1lb. and another is lifting 100lbs. The pulley system is a closed system, so the distance traveled at each connection point is the same regardless of force.

When you lift the top, does the front start coming up slightly before the rear? If so, then you need to adjust your knots (raise them higher in the back).

There is definitely a way to get it to lift just perfectly because.... SCIENCE!!
This would be true if each lift point was individually attached to the top. Since front and back are attached with the strap, like a sling, it could be sliding on the strap and redistributing weight.

You could find a way to stop the sliding or attach with hooks, like the Lange hoist dies, instead of the straps.
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Old 05-05-2014, 01:54 PM   #20
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I also have a mounting question. I want to mount mine as far back against the wall as I can. I'm not using the hoist to take the top off, only for storage. The instructions say to mount the eye bolt on the back wall in the middle of the wall (at least the picture suggests that). It would be easier to mount it on the side wall and hoist from the side. Is there any reason I can't do that, as far as safety goes? I really couldn't think of any reason not to, but is there???
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:31 PM   #21
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I also have a mounting question. I want to mount mine as far back against the wall as I can. I'm not using the hoist to take the top off, only for storage. The instructions say to mount the eye bolt on the back wall in the middle of the wall (at least the picture suggests that). It would be easier to mount it on the side wall and hoist from the side. Is there any reason I can't do that, as far as safety goes? I really couldn't think of any reason not to, but is there???
You can do that. Just keep the Eye bolt at an angle pointed towards the organizer in line with the ropes. This is how I mounted mine. I did it backwards and had the eye bolt on the front wall to the side of the garage door.

Though, if you are just using the hoist to store the top, you may be better off going another route. You could just use ratchet straps and eye bolts for a cheaper option, or the Racor or similar platform hoist would let you store other items when not storing the top and would be easy to just slide the top on when carrying from the Jeep. Your call though. Just throwing out ideas.
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Old 05-05-2014, 02:43 PM   #22
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Thanks

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