Did you use a conversion harness to install your head unit (a little box that wires in between the factory harness and your new head unit)? I've heard of trouble with those boxes. I used one from Crutchfield when I did mine and have been keeping my fingers crossed.
yea i used the PAC harness that came with a little blue box that I had to stuff behind the head unit. you think that could be the problem?
i can't remember if there was some sort of fuse attached to the harness as well? i figured if it was a blown fuse, i wouldn't be getting any kind of power to the head unit so when i press the "eject" button the head unit wouldn't be lighting up for a second. maybe i'm wrong about that..
Hey BlackMountain, mine did the same thing when I added a cheap all in one sub.
Try removing the sub remote power wire (blue one from the sub and see if your Head Unit will power on. If not then it probably shorted (the sub) the PAC harness.
I went with a seperate amp and Rockford Fosgate 12' sub and sealed box.
Head Unit and sub have not missed a beat since.
This is the harness I used. Do those little black boxes off the actual harnesses contain fuses?
Yup, same one I used. Google will return several reports of them fizzling out. Your sub taking a crap shouldn't affect your head unit, though. Try disconnecting it first, then see if the head unit will power.
Your best bet would probably be what you just said. Run a switch and turn it off and on manually. Chrysler did us NO favors with this CanBus nightmare.
wait, so your sub shorted and your harness was fine?
if I remove the blue wire, do i have to manually turn the sub on and off?
Yes my sub shorted out internally and I just removed the blue wire (remote turn on for the sub) and the Head Unit turned on. The PAC harness was fine.
Here is a quick check to make sure your sub/amp is working.
At the sub/amp connection remove the blue wire.
Take a small piece of speaker wire and strip the ends.
Then touch one end of the wire to the remote turn on terminal and the other to the Positive side and your amp should turn on.
alright thanks. i'm wondering why the sub would short out internally if it is self powered? that shouldn't have anything to do with the head unit should it?
what kind of sub did you hook up when this happened?
i used the Sound Ordnance B8PT from Crutchfield and it sounds awesome so i'd be very dissapointed if it shorted out
I at first went cheap, Pyle 10'' slimline 1000w amp/sub combo chopper series from Amazon and it sounded pretty decent but after 30 days the same thing you described happened.
I just tested the amp/sub and all I could get was a red light that said Fault. Called customer service and they said yep sounds like something internal to the amp/sub was fried.
Removed the negative battery cable,removed the sub completely, waited 10 minutes, reconnected the negative battery cable and HU powered back on.
Removing the battery cable probably reset the engines ECU.
Maybe try that.
My buddy wanted to change out his head unit and had the base stock radio so he was cheap and did not want to order the expensive pack harness so he ordered this Scosche CR04B 2006-Up Select Chrysler/Jeep Vehicles Speaker Connector search Amazon and everthing works like stock.
I think you only need the PAC if you have the Infinity amp upgrade for the Jeep.
You may be able to use this if your PAC is fried.
If you step through all the suggestions one at a time and your head unit still does not power on then I would assume your Pac is fried or your head unit is defective.
Pull out your HU and put your stock radio back in and see if your stock works.
just an update on this problem. i disconnected the negative cable to the battery, waited 20 seconds and then reconnected the wire and it fixed the problem. don't ask me why or how, but it works now. thanks for your help guys