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Old 02-18-2010, 10:39 AM   #31
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I agree; the dual stabilizer is too much of a good thing. If you have that much rebound to dampen, there has to be something terribly terribly wrong...

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Old 02-18-2010, 10:49 AM   #32
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OOPS, I forgot to add, the dual stabilizer is NOT GOOD for any light duty vehicle, (steering/tierod/pullys/joints)-overload

It puts TOO MUCH of a load for ALL YOUR NORMAL steering and your steering pump has too work OVERTIME-ALL THE TIME

OK, for the 3/4--1-ton trucks--NOT JEEPS

Not that it won't work-for a while, then probably the "Death Wobble"

Like most jeep mods-just be ready for surprises !!

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And my nightmare continues...lol. I really hope I don't end up regretting buying all this stuff. LOL. I don't want to open up a bottomless can of worms.

I have the Perf. Dual Stabilizer sitting in a box in my garage. Your opinion is not to use it?

What would you recommend to help with steering ect....

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Old 02-18-2010, 10:57 AM   #33
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What would you recommend to help with steering ect....
https://secure.aev-conversions.com/s...ode=NTH20405AB
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:59 AM   #34
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Well, since your's is a 2dr, HD probably has more info on your steering, but

You've never mentioned any steering probs, if the roof don't leak--don't fix it

The steering stab is just a shock absorber, to DAMPEN any vibrations or excess play you MAY have in your steering-are you having steering probs, if so, your prob is more than the steering stab------

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Old 02-18-2010, 11:03 AM   #35
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Right.
You might not need anything but the stock stabilizer. But the Nth Degree set-up will certainly make it work better...
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:06 AM   #36
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He has to do a good research on caster and toe settings and their effects on the scrub radius and pneumatic trail..
As a starter keep the caster to the min of the spec..3.7 degr. TOE aim for zero or slight toe in.. These bigger tires will give you enough grooving feel.
Get a proper alignment done after install.. Let them adjust the control arms to dial in the caster.. Then you have an immediate alignment recheck..With this kind of lift, check your pinion angles as well. Hope the kit comes with adjustable control arms and adjustable track bar ...Might look into the steering bump issue as well and be sure the track bar runs parallel with the drag-link (the centerlines from joint to joint) might have to install some braces..

Last but not least have your new tires road force balanced..and be sure the track bar is properly clamped (right torque etc..)
Do some searches here .. lots of info in several threads on this issue and DW as well..
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:07 AM   #37
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Yes I haven't mentioned any steering problems....but that is because my Jeep is still stock. Everything I listed is sitting in boxes in my garage. I bought the steering stabilizer because I THOUGHT it would be necessary or atleast recommended once I actually lift 3.25" and add 35s.

I am planning to Lift, add 35s. bumpers ect this coming monday (fingers crossed). I could simply not put on the steering stabilizer and send it back?
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:08 AM   #38
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And my nightmare continues...lol. I really hope I don't end up regretting buying all this stuff. LOL. I don't want to open up a bottomless can of worms.

I have the Perf. Dual Stabilizer sitting in a box in my garage. Your opinion is not to use it?

What would you recommend to help with steering ect....
You'll be fine,you just need to find someone(with experience) who knows how to build a jeep. Take your time. Did you read all those posts!! there is a lot, to building a jeep.There have got to be a ton of guys in New York,that can get the job done. Just keep talking to people,find a local jeep club.

Your experience with your jeep is reminding me of my experience with a classic car that I purchased.(it was'nt fun anymore) Don't get down,you'll get it right eventually.
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:17 AM   #39
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I'm sorry, I'm jumping the gun, because I don't work, but

These guys may have a diff. opinion, but I would NEVER use that dual-stab, I don't know if you can send it back and I wouldn't keep it "IN CASE" you have trouble

Now as far as USanti says, your alignment is of MONUMENTAL importantance, I lucked out, because

My Rubi came with BFG M/Ts 32" and always "hunted" a tiny bit on the freeway, at 70 mph

Now with the new LT295/75x16 Hankook Dynapros-a full 33+++ in tire-

Since they increased my "toe-in", now the steering is rocksolid at 70 on the freeway, sometimes good things happen !!

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Old 02-18-2010, 11:20 AM   #40
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You'll be fine,you just need to find someone(with experience) who knows how to build a jeep. Take your time. Did you read all those posts!! there is a lot, to building a jeep.There have got to be a ton of guys in New York,that can get the job done. Just keep talking to people,find a local jeep club.

Your experience with your jeep is reminding me of my experience with a classic car that I purchased.(it was'nt fun anymore) Don't get down,you'll get it right eventually.
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I only hope I don't break the bank trying to get it right. This is my only vehicle and will be using it 80% normal driving and 20% offroading. I am just trying to find the happy medium with those ratios in mind. I don't need a machine that has RPMs screaming going 65 down the highway, but I also don't want to be in the truck lane in 4th gear wavin at the Toyota Prius that is screamin by me HA HA.

Ay yi yi
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:59 AM   #41
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I almost wish I had just gone with a 2.5 inch lift. ran 33's and then not had to deal with all the regearing, steering stablizing, superchiping. ect ect ect ect
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Old 02-18-2010, 12:42 PM   #42
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I almost wish I had just gone with a 2.5 inch lift. ran 33's and then not had to deal with all the regearing, steering stablizing, superchiping. ect ect ect ect
As it turns out....my lift IS a 2.5 suspension lift with added .75 inch coil spacers. So if I just dont put on the coil spacers...I can run the 33s without it looking unproportionate instead. Deal with 3.21 gearing and save the $$ AND stress of regearing.

What do ya guys think about that.
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:48 PM   #43
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Is there a benefit of going 2.5 or 3.25?

Will it cause less wear and tear on stock control arms ect.
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:56 PM   #44
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I'm not ignoring you Tpr, but you're driving a 2dr and spec's like 2.5" Vs 3.25" are better handled by JB or HD

It's pretty accepted on the 4dr's that 2.5 " lift has a 99.9% NIL effect, on ANYTHING other than wheelwell size, but I'm clueless on your jeep

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Old 02-18-2010, 02:05 PM   #45
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You'll have to find out if the shocks will still be the right length. Other than that though, the less you lift it, the fewer knocked-over dominoes there are.
You shouldn't have to mess with driveshafts with 2.5" at least.
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:22 PM   #46
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Well I pulled the trigger on 305/70R17 tires...which transfer out to be 33.8 inches. I think I will leave out the .75 coil spacers too and just go with the 2.5 inch lift. The added weight from the XHD front and rear bumper and XHD tire rack will probably make the 305/70R17's look faily proportionate.

I am going to put off regearing as long as possible. Unless I hit the lottery
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:31 PM   #47
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Bear in mind that those springs will sag a bit after a few weeks.
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Old 02-18-2010, 02:37 PM   #48
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Bear in mind that those springs will sag a bit after a few weeks.
So chuck the coil spacers on anyway?

I am probably splitting hairs...its only 3/4 of an inch
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:14 PM   #49
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One other thing, are adjustable control arms a must? Can they be added later easily?
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:57 PM   #50
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One other thing, are adjustable control arms a must? Can they be added later easily?
yeah those can wait too.
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Old 07-12-2011, 04:29 PM   #51
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im gonna be buying a 3.25" rough country suspension soon and i wanna run 35s... i have 3.73 gears... that ok? or should i just stick to 33s?
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Old 07-12-2011, 08:41 PM   #52
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im gonna be buying a 3.25" rough country suspension soon and i wanna run 35s... i have 3.73 gears... that ok? or should i just stick to 33s?
Have you read all the requirements for anything over 2.5" lift? You can put on a Tereflex 2.5" coil lift and run up to 35" tires. Over 2.5 and you will need drive shafts plus you will have may have many other handling and alignment problems that a simple lift does not address.

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