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Old 05-17-2013, 07:45 PM   #1
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Help installing AEV 2.5

The title says it. I'm installing it tonight. Or will attempt to get as much done as possible, solo. With that said, any late nighters, please check up on here in case I come up with some questions.


First of the day, AEV says to remove end links. I read a thread that said to just disconnect them.

Do I unbolt just the top or the bottom? Remove? Does it matter?

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Old 05-17-2013, 07:59 PM   #2
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OK. I unbolted the top.

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Old 05-17-2013, 08:03 PM   #3
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unbolting the sway bar links is how you disconnect them.. unless you have quick disconnects with pins..

have fun man!
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:04 PM   #4
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You actually want to unbolt the bottoms then flip them up.

God luck, i did this one solo as well and will be checking throughout the night.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:05 PM   #5
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does the AEV kit come with quick disconnects if so, you'll completely remove them.. if not just undoing one side should be enough
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:11 PM   #6
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I will be following you to see how this goes. I'm going to be doing one soon myself.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:13 PM   #7
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You guys are great. That's all I have!
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:20 PM   #8
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AEV 2.5" doesn't come with quick discos guys. Just rears and then you move stock to front.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:29 PM   #9
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looks like this is the PDF you are following?

http://www.aev-conversions.com/ishee...ort_ISheet.pdf
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ealive View Post
AEV 2.5" doesn't come with quick discos guys. Just rears and then you move stock to front.
I take that back (thanks for postin the pdf). Keep rears and then you use brackets for front. AEV loves brackets
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:40 PM   #11
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I just installed one a few weeks ago. Pretty easy install some Drilling required, noting major but over all easy install.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ealive View Post
I take that back (thanks for postin the pdf). Keep rears and then you use brackets for front. AEV loves brackets
Very true.. Seems new end links would be cheaper than building brackets, but they work the same.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:50 PM   #12
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I know you may not like this but I recommend to get the geometry brackets, helps a lot on steering on the road. The front set was the toughest for me.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ealive View Post
AEV loves brackets
You aren't kidding! just looking through that pdf now..

can't wait to put in my lift now..
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:04 PM   #14
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I'm installing mine on Wednesday. I will be keeping an eye on this as well.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:27 PM   #15
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Thanks. I started with the rear. Springs are in. But not sure if they are seated correctly. PDF shows the top of spring end facing rear but say to make sure it's seated right on the axle. Well then show me a pic of the axle, buggers.

Had to drop the axle damn near to the ground to get the springs in. Breather tube popped off the axle. LOL!
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:37 PM   #16
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I just did my AEV 2.5 about a month back.
Here is a little time saver tip for you.
If you put the rear bump stops on you will not be able to torque the lower control arm bolts on both sides. (not enough room for the torque wrench) So finish up everything on the rear put it back on the ground before you torque then once you have everything torqued, put on the bump stops then go to the front.
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:38 PM   #17
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I have been searching for a complete video on this install but no luck. I think it would serve these companies well to do this especially considering how many they are selling. Just my two cents
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Old 05-17-2013, 09:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Thanks. I started with the rear. Springs are in. But not sure if they are seated correctly. PDF shows the top of spring end facing rear but say to make sure it's seated right on the axle. Well then show me a pic of the axle, buggers.

Had to drop the axle damn near to the ground to get the springs in. Breather tube popped off the axle. LOL!
dropping the axle is much easier than using spring compressors..
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:28 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guppy View Post
I just did my AEV 2.5 about a month back.
Here is a little time saver tip for you.
If you put the rear bump stops on you will not be able to torque the lower control arm bolts on both sides. (not enough room for the torque wrench) So finish up everything on the rear put it back on the ground before you torque then once you have everything torqued, put on the bump stops then go to the front.
Checked the bump stops and you're right. I'm taking them off. Just about to put the rear tires back on. Sent wife to Walmart to buy a cheap set of standard Allen wrenches. All I have are metric and can't find one that fits the bump stop. Argh. Hope she brings me the right tool. I gave her my metric set to take.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:14 PM   #20
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Going to do mine tomorrow/today now I suppose. I see in the instructions you disconnect the front DS but does not say you have disconnect the rear DS. Should you disconnect the rear DS?
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:17 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Flint_Holbrook View Post
Going to do mine tomorrow/today now I suppose. I see in the instructions you disconnect the front DS but does not say you have disconnect the rear DS. Should you disconnect the rear DS?
Only the front. Rear not needed.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:36 PM   #22
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Good luck. I'm getting this one as well with the geometry correction brackets. Hoping driveshaft won't hit the Skid Row engine skid I just ordered after the lift.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:54 PM   #23
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I just did this a month ago. I did not have to drill anything to my recollection. I did not put the geometry brackets on at that time as I ran out of time. I just did those last weekend. WOW! I thought it was pretty good until I did those. It is amazing now. I love this lift!

Good luck, I'll check in later as well.
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:29 AM   #24
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Well I got stuck. First I lost the top screw to the pass side shock. Ended up finding it inside the upper rubber bump stop LOL!

Now I just can't get the fuggin front brake line off that damn factory bracket. Just can't pry it loose.
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:46 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dollar View Post
Well I got stuck. First I lost the top screw to the pass side shock. Ended up finding it inside the upper rubber bump stop LOL!

Now I just can't get the fuggin front brake line off that damn factory bracket. Just can't pry it loose.
Hear your pain, did mine myself with a little help from the wife.

What year is your JK, my 2007 did not need to take the break line off the factory bracket.

Mines RHD so a few changes to the usual kit and not covered that well in the PDF, but drop Kent at AEV an email if your stuck. He will help sort it all out.
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:05 AM   #26
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It's a 2013. Front brake line is sandwiched in a metal bracket. Supposed to take line out of bracket but I just couldn't get it and still haven't.

Hit a good stopping point when it came time to drill hole for the front bump stops. Don't want to be too noisy for the neighbors. Bad enough with my cussing when I banged the crap out of my elbow and punched myself in the mouth. Damn a few of the front control arm bolts were tight.

Everything was going smooth til my brother showed up as i let down the rear. I spent too much time explaining stuff to him and trying to give him things to do or help with. He's not mechanically inclined. I was much more efficient alone.

Well I'm off to bed with the rear done and the front in the air. I'll wake up and drill the holes and try to figure out that stupid brake line bracket without damaging the brake line. Almost easier to get new lines.
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:23 AM   #27
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As a newbie I'm interested in installing this kit myself. With the JK Rubicons got the electronic disconnect and TPMS is there anything to be wary of?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:35 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dollar View Post
Well I got stuck. First I lost the top screw to the pass side shock. Ended up finding it inside the upper rubber bump stop LOL!

Now I just can't get the fuggin front brake line off that damn factory bracket. Just can't pry it loose.
This was a royal pain for me too!
I took the first bracket loose and then tried to pry the metal off the hose.
NO LUCK!
I finally very CAREFULLY, took a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut a groove into the metal (not all the way thru) wrapping the brake line. DO NOT CUT THE BRAKE LINE!
After grooving it, I was able to bend it back and free the line with ease.
Passenger side I left mounted used some vise grips and just bent it down until the line was loose. You can get the teeth of the vise grips on the inner ledge of the metal bracket and it will open up. The key is to leave it mounted and start by just bending it straight down.
I have been told that inside the rubber on the factory brake line is actually a stainless steel hose...not sure if that is true.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:57 AM   #29
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Before you drill, lay your bump stop in position then take your spring and put over the top of it so you can center the bump stop in the spring. Mark the spot by sticking a pencil thru the hole (of the bump stop) and then pull it all back out hit it with a punch and drill away.
There is no question of when you have the front spring seated correctly as there is a big indentation for the blunt end of the spring to set in.
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Old 05-18-2013, 06:10 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stzd8 View Post
I know you may not like this but I recommend to get the geometry brackets, helps a lot on steering on the road. The front set was the toughest for me.
I put the geometry brackets on my 09 with the 2.5 TF BB and it made such an improvement to the handling that I did not even consider "not" putting them on my 13 with the AEV 2.5 lift.
X2 on the recommendation of geometry brackets. This will be the best $100 mod you can do.
And the good news they are a whole lot easier to install on the 2013 then on the 2009. The 2013 the bolt can actually be removed on the passenger side vs cutting it out like the earlier models. Still a bit of a pain but much better than the earlier models.

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