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Old 05-24-2013, 10:09 AM   #1
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Help with 2013 Wrangler Unlimited

First, hello to all members on the forum! I have been reading with great interest, I only wish I knew about this forum during my Jeep research!

Two days ago, I picked up my new 2013 Wrangler Unlimited Sport that has a 4" lift with 35" tires installed by the dealer. I test drove the Jeep on roads topping out at 45-50 and really like the Jeep and it's looks.

However, on the interstate, a whole new ball game. It seems like it is a great effort to even reach 65mph, the jeep seems to wander on its own within my lane causing constant steering wheel input, this is actually evident at all speeds above 30 or so. Never drove a lifted vehicle or had tires this large (Nitto LT295/60/20), and I know Jeeps are not "highway vehicles per se'. Is this just "normal" driving behavior for my vehicle as it is?

Also, when in my driveway with a slight grade, the jeep whines when releasing or applying brake. The sound is as if it is straining. Is it just breaking in? Or normal under a "load" on a slight grade?

Rag top would not go far enough forward to close the header latches, can't tell you how frustrating that was, so I put the hard top back on.

I am so disappointed at this point, that I am contemplating asking the dealer to take it back and deal with what the consequences are$$$. I still want a Jeep, but may think a non-lifted one may be a better fit for me. I may have been blinded by the awesome look of this one.

Going off to work and try it out one more time before making that dreaded call. Any input/thoughts will be much appreciated!

I look forward to being a member of this forum! Thank you!

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Old 05-24-2013, 10:28 AM   #2
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My guess....
You have 3.21's... (axle ratio)

Nitto's are heavy tires..

A 4" lift is a lot....

I wish you would have come here first, we could have helped you quite a bit. Live and learn...and welcome to WF.

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Old 05-24-2013, 10:35 AM   #3
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The rag top needs to stretch a little to close. Undo the back and see if the front will just barely hook, then do the back and close the front. A nice warm day is needed the first time. Bestop has a nice video of the TrekTop NX and getting it to close the first time, same procedure with the latches and back glass.

Need 4.56 gears for the highway speed thing. Stupid dealer did not finish the lift correctly with the correct gearing.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:55 AM   #4
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None of that is normal.

My bet is:

(1) The dealer installed a cheap and incomplete lift kit. Unfortunately, many dealer installed kits are meant solely to look good and sell jeeps--not to actually handle well. For 4", you should really have all new control arms and trackbars, which would vastly improve highway handling. I expect you've still got the stock ones, perhaps with some chintzy bracketry to try to compensate.

(2) The dealer also no doubt did not "regear" your axles to accomodate for the much larger tires, meaning you probably have the stock 3.21 gears. This will substantially drain your power and gas mileage. But, again, the primary focus in choosing and installing this lift was probably to keep costs down while looking pretty. Regeared axles are a lot of work and aren't visually apparent.

(3) The soft top is plenty big enough. What you need to do is fully extend the part of the latches that your hand holds by getting your fingers out from the area between the top of the latch and the underside of the soft top. The farther you extend this part of the latch, the farther forward the hooking part of the latch will reach. It may also help to undo the sail panels in the back of the jeep over the tail lights.

Definitely would have been good to come here first. But still, we can help. If you're willing to put in another $3k or so worth of parts/labor (about half of which would be for the regear), it'll handle great and have plenty of acceleration.
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:01 AM   #5
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^ all good info

Lower control arms ($250-$300) or AEV front CA drop brackets ($100) can get some lost caster back. This will greatly improve highway handling.
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:08 AM   #6
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Check a few things before you blame it on the lift kit. Make sure your tires are at the right air pressure. If your EVIC is reading 40psi you need to let about 12 psi out of each tire. 26-28 psi would be good for 35s for everyday driving. Also you may want to get a AEV pro cal to to program the jeep so it knows it has 35"s. This will help with shifting point. Hopefully you have a 3.73 diff which should be good with 35s. 3.21s would be a problem..but some people that have them think they are ok. If it has a 4" lift then the dealer should have replace drive shafts or you will be doing it soon.

Also..if they did not replace the rear bumper or more specifically the rear tire carrier..you should. If you don't you will be replacing the rear tailgate as it is not meant to support a heavy 35" tire.

That being said...sounds like a pretty sick Jeep..so lets see some pictures.
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:19 AM   #7
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If there is anyway you could get out of the deal without a financial hit...I'd consider doing it.

We can give you pointers on custom ordering a new Wrangler, under invoice, with all of the options you need, based on how YOU will use the vehicle.
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85CJ View Post
First, hello to all members on the forum! I have been reading with great interest, I only wish I knew about this forum during my Jeep research!

Two days ago, I picked up my new 2013 Wrangler Unlimited Sport that has a 4" lift with 35" tires installed by the dealer. I test drove the Jeep on roads topping out at 45-50 and really like the Jeep and it's looks.

However, on the interstate, a whole new ball game. It seems like it is a great effort to even reach 65mph, the jeep seems to wander on its own within my lane causing constant steering wheel input, this is actually evident at all speeds above 30 or so. Never drove a lifted vehicle or had tires this large (Nitto LT295/60/20), and I know Jeeps are not "highway vehicles per se'. Is this just "normal" driving behavior for my vehicle as it is?

Also, when in my driveway with a slight grade, the jeep whines when releasing or applying brake. The sound is as if it is straining. Is it just breaking in? Or normal under a "load" on a slight grade?

Rag top would not go far enough forward to close the header latches, can't tell you how frustrating that was, so I put the hard top back on.

I am so disappointed at this point, that I am contemplating asking the dealer to take it back and deal with what the consequences are$$$. I still want a Jeep, but may think a non-lifted one may be a better fit for me. I may have been blinded by the awesome look of this one.

Going off to work and try it out one more time before making that dreaded call. Any input/thoughts will be much appreciated!

I look forward to being a member of this forum! Thank you!

Everyone has given you some great answers. I want to comment on the top situation. Make sure that the Sunrider hinges are clipped into the door surrounds. Every time I have put my soft top on, I forget to do this and I wonder why it doesn't come far enough forward. The n I realize I forgot to attach the hinges for that and it fits like it should.

The e-brakes on the JK's have always been known for having some issues. I would take it back to the dealer and have them go over it just to be safe.

When dealers "build up" Jeeps like that, it's strictly for getting a sale on the Jeep. The usually don't have any clue about the proper way to mod Jeeps. Depending on the price you got the Jeep for, I would seriously consider getting a stock one and modding it yourself. It'll most likely be a ton cheaper than what they charged for the mods.

I hope this helps! Good luck, and feel free to ask us anything you need. There are a bunch of helpful people on the here that will help you every step of the way!

-Zach
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:12 PM   #9
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Wow, thank you for all the detailed responses! I can tell that only scratched the surface of the knowledge here!

It does have the 3.73 gears as it has the max. tow package. I have the build sheet at home with the parts/kit they used and will post again later tonight with that info.

In the meantime, I put word into the dealership about my disappointment with the jeep and what options I have to include "trading" it back in.

Really feel worse after reading everyone's posts, what an apparently expensive mistake. But, it does look good. I'll try to put some pix on soon. Thanks!
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:57 PM   #10
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Kinda got buried In the other great post

For $99 you could easily install AEV front control arm brackets. These will flatten out your front arms and change the caster angle. The cheaper lift kits are not complete and leave out key components. Losing caster from lifting will cause flighty handling and overall poor drivability like you're describing.
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Old 05-24-2013, 06:08 PM   #11
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Stock wheels and tires...and you'll be fine.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:09 PM   #12
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From the dealer invoice: Mopar 4 inch Stage 2 lift kit with Fox race shocks. Looks like that is all that was used, along with the 20" XD rims and Nitto 35" tires. I will be talking with them tomorrow. We have bought other vehicles there before and have a pretty good rapport, hopefully that will help solve this one way or another. I am also expecting to pay one way or another, either to add items to this jeep or to obtain another one. I will be mentioning many of the products or suggestions mentioned here, so thanks again!!
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:36 PM   #13
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From the dealer invoice: Mopar 4 inch Stage 2 lift kit with Fox race shocks. Looks like that is all that was used, along with the 20" XD rims and Nitto 35" tires. I will be talking with them tomorrow. We have bought other vehicles there before and have a pretty good rapport, hopefully that will help solve this one way or another. I am also expecting to pay one way or another, either to add items to this jeep or to obtain another one. I will be mentioning many of the products or suggestions mentioned here, so thanks again!!
Actually..if you got the mopar stage 4 lift and the did it right, that is a pretty good lift. I wold check tire pressure. That may be it.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:36 AM   #14
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Is there a stage 4? Mine is a stage 2. Looking forward to talking to the dealer today. I really doubt that I can make a switch, so I am planning on adding parts to correct these driving issues and strengthen their build.

Making a list from all your suggestions. Psi reads 49 on each tire from the EVIC, upper 20s seems low for a tire rated up to 80 psi, but I'll try anything at this point.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:45 AM   #15
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Is there a stage 4? Mine is a stage 2. Looking forward to talking to the dealer today. I really doubt that I can make a switch, so I am planning on adding parts to correct these driving issues and strengthen their build.

Making a list from all your suggestions. Psi reads 49 on each tire from the EVIC, upper 20s seems low for a tire rated up to 80 psi, but I'll try anything at this point.
My bad...that is what I meant.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:53 AM   #16
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Is there a stage 4? Mine is a stage 2. Looking forward to talking to the dealer today. I really doubt that I can make a switch, so I am planning on adding parts to correct these driving issues and strengthen their build.

Making a list from all your suggestions. Psi reads 49 on each tire from the EVIC, upper 20s seems low for a tire rated up to 80 psi, but I'll try anything at this point.
Do the research on here. 49 is way to high. 35s should be in the mid to upper 20s. It maybe slightly different because they are 20" rims...but not by much. I have 33s that rode terrible at 40 psi...at 30 psi the ride really well. 6000 miles later my tires are wearing even.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:15 AM   #17
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Gould call.... 49 is way to high.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:25 AM   #18
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Kinda got buried In the other great post

For $99 you could easily install AEV front control arm brackets. These will flatten out your front arms and change the caster angle. The cheaper lift kits are not complete and leave out key components. Losing caster from lifting will cause flighty handling and overall poor drivability like you're describing.
I am in same boat as OP. Wife bought a JKU with 4" Pro Comp stage 1 lift and 35's. At higher speeds it definitely starts floating and bouncing around in the lane.

You are saying these control arm brackets will make a huge difference? For $100 it's almost a no brainer.
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Old 05-25-2013, 06:53 AM   #19
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I am in same boat as OP. Wife bought a JKU with 4" Pro Comp stage 1 lift and 35's. At higher speeds it definitely starts floating and bouncing around in the lane.

You are saying these control arm brackets will make a huge difference? For $100 it's almost a no brainer.
Yes... Check this out.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f33/aev...ts-141862.html
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:38 AM   #20
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........Also, when in my driveway with a slight grade, the jeep whines when releasing or applying brake. The sound is as if it is straining. Is it just breaking in? Or normal under a "load" on a slight grade........
A "groaning" sound is usually normal.
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:40 PM   #21
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I am not going to install these myself. What would be a fair price to have a shop install the brackets? And about how long would it take?
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Old 05-25-2013, 03:38 PM   #22
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I am not going to install these myself. What would be a fair price to have a shop install the brackets? And about how long would it take?
Not much. I've never installed them myself, but having looked at the kit and its instructions I can't imagine it'd take more than an hour. Depending on locale, shop rates are often about $80 to $110 an hour.
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Old 05-25-2013, 03:57 PM   #23
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Very easy to do yourself.
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:33 AM   #24
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Well, in a stroke of good fortune and unbelievable amount of understanding, the dealership took back the jeep that had me start this thread. I feel relieved and was able to switch to the jeep that I originally test drove and was ready to buy anyway.

It's a 13' Moab with a good list of options and I drove it home with a grin on my face and excited like I should have been in the first place! Thanks for all the input on the lift issues and I will keep that in mind if and when I think about raising this one. But for now, I'm just going to enjoy it the way it is!
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:53 AM   #25
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Well, in a stroke of good fortune and unbelievable amount of understanding, the dealership took back the jeep that had me start this thread. I feel relieved and was able to switch to the jeep that I originally test drove and was ready to buy anyway.

It's a 13' Moab with a good list of options and I drove it home with a grin on my face and excited like I should have been in the first place! Thanks for all the input on the lift issues and I will keep that in mind if and when I think about raising this one. But for now, I'm just going to enjoy it the way it is!
SWEET! Give a shout out to the dealer for that! We only hear about the terrible ones! Congrats! But still no pics?!
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Old 05-26-2013, 07:45 AM   #26
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Well, in a stroke of good fortune and unbelievable amount of understanding, the dealership took back the jeep that had me start this thread. I feel relieved and was able to switch to the jeep that I originally test drove and was ready to buy anyway.

It's a 13' Moab with a good list of options and I drove it home with a grin on my face and excited like I should have been in the first place! Thanks for all the input on the lift issues and I will keep that in mind if and when I think about raising this one. But for now, I'm just going to enjoy it the way it is!
Nice!

Pics are now needed...
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:26 PM   #27
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Here are a few pics! :)

2013 moab
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:44 PM   #28
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2013 moab
Glad they took care of you, that could have been a few bucks worth of corrections to get the other one behaving normally.

Be aware, when you push tire size up, (to 35) you're definitely going to need to budget for regear shortly afterwards. Stock gears are really no fun with bigger than stock tires - Chrysler really gets the stock tire size right at the edge of drivable, and anything beyond that requires a little work. (Figure 1000 to 1500 to regear 'parts and labor')..

AND BE AWARE that lifts and regears can have vast impacts on your warranty, so take your time.

Have fun! Welcome to WF... And for the love of god, when a Jeep driver waves... WAVE BACK.
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Old 05-26-2013, 06:47 PM   #29
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I love that hood!
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:09 PM   #30
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Glad they took care of you, that could have been a few bucks worth of corrections to get the other one behaving normally.

Be aware, when you push tire size up, (to 35) you're definitely going to need to budget for regear shortly afterwards. Stock gears are really no fun with bigger than stock tires - Chrysler really gets the stock tire size right at the edge of drivable, and anything beyond that requires a little work. (Figure 1000 to 1500 to regear 'parts and labor')..

AND BE AWARE that lifts and regears can have vast impacts on your warranty, so take your time.

Have fun! Welcome to WF... And for the love of god, when a Jeep driver waves... WAVE BACK.
Points well taken! Been waving already lol! Dang, I'm waving all the time now, cause I'm either on my Harley and now a Jeep!!

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