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Help with Mud Flaps

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mud flaps
24K views 114 replies 40 participants last post by  BadRoad-GoodTimes 
#1 ·
Hello! I'm new to the forum.
Proud owner of a new 2015 Wrangler JKU Sport S.
I'm looking for some cool-looking mud flaps that are more utilitarian than stylish. You know... form follow function. I don't want any fancy euro-looking plastic things. Think old-school truck style. Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe some tips for installation as well? Maybe a YouTube video or something?
I would prefer not to drill any new holes anywhere.
Thanks in advance!
 
#2 ·
Cool looking mud flaps is an oxymoron...

I just bought the Mopar ones for the front. I don't care enough about the guy behind me to buy the rears. They haven't been delivered yet so I can't tell you how cool they are. My guess is, not very. :)
 
#21 ·
Follow up: They have a very low coolness factor, just as I feared. I'm an old bastard so I don't care. They went on pretty easily.

The rest of Big Mod Thursday included Weathertech mats (front and back), Mopar sill guards, bestop security box under my seat and increasing the usability of the rearview by about 30% by the spring mod to the rear headrests.

The best part about Jeep ownership so far has been driving to work every morning stagecoach style with the door uppers removed. So far I have driven it once with the uppers in place and that was because my wife thinks it is too loud on the highway.
 
#5 ·
I am trying really hard to avoid buying anything that has the "Jeep" logo on it.
I'm thinking something very utilitarian & generic like these.....
Aries Automotive AR111950 - Shop RealTruck.com

I just don't want to spend $200 for front & rear mud flaps.
I work at a machine shop; I may just buy some generic flaps at the auto parts store and make my own brackets.
If anyone has done this and was happy with the results, I would appreciate a photo of the end result.
 
#6 ·
Here's what I did:
Fronts are 1/4" thick reinforced rubber (made from a semi truck mud flap).
Rears are made from a thin plastic mud flap, but they don't hang down enough to require flexibility.








Here's how clean the sides stay:








 
#14 ·
Here's what I did:
Fronts are 1/4" thick reinforced rubber (made from a semi truck mud flap).
Rears are made from a thin plastic mud flap, but they don't hang down enough to require flexibility.
Nice job, I like those! Did you just pick up a pair of semi tractor flaps and where did you find them? Install with factory screws?
My old H3 was horrible in the slushy snow but flaps were outrageous $$$. I am definitely making a pair of those.
 
#10 ·
I have the Mopar flaps in the front, and like ZzzKing, didn't do the rears (for the same reason).
The only major downside to these flaps is that if you get into boulder crawling, you'll damage your fender flares if you come over and drag on a tall rock (as the Mopar flares are fairly rigid). Only happened once to me so far, but be forewarned.
Jac04's flaps wouldn't have that problem.
 
#11 ·
I got a set front & rear of "Husky" with no logo.

After removing the useless running boards, I had to install
these for road hash protection


work well, easy to install, decent cost
 
#26 ·
Will mud flaps not work on the front if you have running boards? I was planning to get a set of 4 but if I have to remove the running boards I'll just get the rears.
 
#20 ·
I have the Mopar flaps and they are excellent. No more spray on the sides of my jeep, they were around $100 for 4 and like many factory parts/accesories they fit perfect the first time. The Jeep logo is very hard to see as it's just raised plastic, no color. Only drilling was in the plastic inner fenders. I can go weeks without washing my Jeep, before it didn't make it 2 days.
 
#27 ·
I was under the impression no drilling was required for install?
 
#22 ·
I added front mud flaps this weekend. I went with the universal style 1/4 thick x 12 x 18 rubber flaps. Took my time getting them square and symmetrical. Still only took about 45 minutes to mount them.
I opened my wallet today ($80 on Amazon) and ordered the Aries universal frame mount rear flaps today. They are supposed to be a bolt-on for the rear of the JK. I also had to order the chrome "mud flap girl" emblems to mount on the rear flaps. Couldn't resist the urge to add a little classic bling.

I also added some grab handles to the hard top. This will make it so much easier to handle the hard top without pinched fingers and smashed hands.
I ordered four RV grab handles (black plastic) and mounted them horizontally. Two on each side between the lower edge and the rear window. They work out to be about shoulder width apart.
I used fender washers on the interior side of the mounting hole to help distribute the load. Now I am not dreading taking the top off the next time.
 
#28 ·
re: running boards vs mud flaps

In my use the running boards proved to be useless.

They were too close to body/too high/too narrow to use getting in, and too wide getting out as the edge always caught my pant leg. I was unable to step out/over the edge as my legs are too short to reach.

Originally removed running boards to install Rubi Rock Rail. Discovered road hash did make issue with the rear fender.

Sought out mud flaps to keep down the debris from further damage. Worked fine.

Would I want running boards again? Not on my Jeep.

And while it is entirely subjective, my impression was Jeep considerably narrower, drove differently, and was somehow more robust, WITHOUT the running boards.

Now that I've reinstalled them pending trade, the road/wind/gravel sound has again changed. I'm leaving the mud flaps on for the trade. May find them desirable and seek future replacement.

Without running boards, I could stand closer while getting in/out, which was far easier than trying to leap over the obstruction.
 
#30 ·
re: running boards vs mud flaps

In my use the running boards proved to be useless.

They were too close to body/too high/too narrow to use getting in, and too wide getting out as the edge always caught my pant leg. I was unable to step out/over the edge as my legs are too short to reach.
I don't have mud flaps (yet), but did have the Sahara running boards for a while and I also thought they were oddly designed. Luckily, I'm tall enough I was able to step over them... but how much sense does it make to step over the step instead of on it??

The only thing they really came in handy for was as a platform to stand on while arranging cargo on my roof rack.
 
#29 ·
added: Looking at how close the front mud flap is to the running board, I'm not sure it would be easily installed while running board was on.

And given 'either front OR rear' mud flaps, I believe the front ones actually do more to protect the sides/rear fender.
 
#32 ·
"(will mud flaps fit with factory running boards?)

I believe you will need to install the front mud flap without the running board on, although there MIGHT be room to slip it in and mount the flap while RB is installed.

Rear no issue with room.

My running boards were off first, then rock rails installed, then later the mud flaps.

Now on the trade/break down, I had my shop removed the rock rails, reinstall the RBs. The mud flaps stay in place during that procedure.

Going to the dealer with mud flaps and RBs mounted.....although it looks a little odd, the front mud flaps do seem to fit just fine in the space ahead of the RB. Whether this may prove to be a wear/noise/wind problem I don't know.
 
#33 ·
Thanks! I plan on picking up a pair (likely Rugged Ridge) for about $65 on Amazon before November.
 
#34 ·
Thanks for the help. The wife and kids are a bit "unhappy" that I took the running boards off, while Im happy with the extra protection that the front mud flaps provide. haha Looks like I'll just have to pick up a set of the factory running boards and everything should fit fine.

Thanks!
 
#37 ·
No, it was easy, I followed jac04's basic idea, there is a metal tab behind the existing fender. I drilled and screwed through (nice and solid) I took out the lowest plastic nut on the fender for the outside edge and drilled another hole in the middle, perpendicular to, and between sheet metal so the screw wouldn't rub on anything behind. A total of three points. Just move the fender out of the way and you can see what I am talking about. I also push the rubber mat up as far as I could to give it a little more stability. I Used all stainless flat washers, nyloc nuts and screws. It would be easier if you took off the wheels but I was lazy and just cranked the steering wheel to make space, but it was hard to get the drill in on the middle screw. I over-sized everything so if I wanted I could cut it down later if I didn't like the result. so far so good! Havent had it offroad yet to see how they may hit, but they should just bend out of the way like jac04 said, look at his photos to get a better idea of placement, i will take a couple of mine today for a install comparison.
jac04 gets the credit on this one, one of the best simple mods to make in my mind, and just in time for the snow to start flying!
 
#42 ·
Inside shot of the flaps, you cant see the third screw because its under the stock flap. jac04 how far up did you push the flaps under the existing wheel well? I basically pushed mine as far as it could go, it kind of pinched between the plastic and the metal.
 

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#45 ·
jac04 how far up did you push the flaps under the existing wheel well? I basically pushed mine as far as it could go, it kind of pinched between the plastic and the metal.
I pushed mine up about the same - I ended up notching the rubber a little so it didn't get pinched between the plastic & metal. You can just see the notch in the first picture:







 
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