Sorry for starting a new thread for this, but my questions did not get a reply in a related thread, previously. For people that did this, how do you get a wrench in the rear bolt "pocket" for the front control arms? Also, I see people talking about a gold bolt for the front track bar, but I only have two silver bolts. Third question, why are there 4 bolts for the track bar? Aren't there only 2 bolts; a frame side and axle side? If I'm doing 1 bolt at a time, is it ok to torque each one down as I go? I plan on doing the job with wheels on the ground. I did not get instructions with my kit. Thank you very much. I plan on doing this today, as soon as I get the answers to my questions. I hate starting a project and hitting avoidable snags!
I got my Kit a few weeks ago. I just did 4 Bolts last Saturday. I did the 4 bolts on the 2 front lower control arms. Today is Tuesday and I'm still sore. I had to look up info to find out what goes where. The Front LCA are probably the easiest ones from the looks of it, but I think they are the most important ones. My next ones will be the Track Bar, but I would also like to be absolutely sure of what goes where before I start. I feel Northridge 4X4 is a little neglectful with the instructions... as there aren't ANY.
Yes, do it on the ground or on jack stands under the axle so the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. I used loctite and only replaced the bolts on the lower ca's and trackbar.
I just called Northridge and talked to Sean Emerson, the sales manager. He sent me instructions while I was on the phone with him. Here they are:
2007+ Jeep JK Wrangler Grade 8 Bolt Kit
Kit Includes:
8 – Lower Control Arm Bolts – 9/16-18 X 4” Grade 8 Hex Head Cap Screw Yellow Zinc (Long Gold Bolts)
4 – Track Bar Bolts (2007-2010) – 9/16-18 X 3” Grade 8 Hex Head Cap Screw Yellow Zinc (Short Gold Bolts)
2 – Track Bar Bolts (2011-2012) – M14-2.0 X 80mm Grade 10.9 (2 Silver Bolts)
24 – 9/16” Super SAE (Type A Narrow) Flat Washer Yellow Zinc
12 – 9/16-18 Grade C All Metal Hex Lock Nut Zinc
2 – M14-2.0 Grade 9 Lock Nut
Notes:
1. This kit includes enough Lower Control Arm Bolts to replace both the axle and frame ends of the 4 Lower Control Arms. It is not necessary to replace any of the Upper Control Arm Bolts, therefore the kit does not contain those bolts.
2. In 2011 Jeep made a running change to the diameter of both the Front and Rear Track Bar Bolt hole diameter. The 9/16” Bolts are too wide for Jeeps produced after the change requiring the use of the 14mm bolts in stock applications. DO NOT FORCE THE LARGER BOLT INTO THE TRACKBAR.
3. Many aftermarket Track Bars and Track Bar Brackets use the 9/16” Bolt. It is recommended to test the fit of both bolts while the Track Bar is disconnected prior to torqueing. The correct bolt will easily slide into the hole without excessive play.
4. Torque Specs:
a. JK Factory Service Manual recommends 125 ft-lbs for Lower Control Arms and Track Bar Bolts.
Well, looks like this project is on indefinite hold...I don't have the strength or leverage to even budge the bolts working on a garage floor. I tried a 2' breaker bar and my air gun wouldn't even touch them. Looks like they're staying put.
I just finished replacing the track bar and front control arm bolts and you are right, those dang things are on there very tight. It was very tough to break the bolts loose with a 18" breaker bar and also hard to torque the new bolts.
I'm going to have to find a place that rents out garage space for a day. Maybe the local BOCES or something like that. I tried jacking up the front to gain a little leverage, but all I did was pull-ups. I was literally hanging off the breaker bar.
When I purchased our 2014 JKUR I informed the sales staff and owner of the problem with the all thread bolts. They purchase the Northridge kit for me. I had thoughts of doing this myself, but I do not have a lift, nor the right size metric sockets. So at 2480 miles on the odometer, this morning I took it in to S.J. Denham to have the bolts replaced. They quoted me 1/2 hour labor, so the bill came to $57. The technician actually took 3.5 hours. Most guys here say they took 1/2 hour to do the job, but Chrysler book said that they needed to take the weight off the suspension, and then after setting it back down and having weight back on the suspension when tightening the bolts to 125 ft. lbs. This is what made it a 3.5 hour job instead of a 1/2 hour job. They are a great dealer and honored their quote.
Now for the important news.,,,, At 2480 very easy miles, the bushings were scarred.
I am glad I took it in today, before more damage occurred.
When I purchased our 2014 JKUR I informed the sales staff and owner of the problem with the all thread bolts. They purchase the Northridge kit for me. I had thoughts of doing this myself, but I do not have a lift, nor the right size metric sockets. So at 2480 miles on the odometer, this morning I took it in to S.J. Denham to have the bolts replaced. They quoted me 1/2 hour labor, so the bill came to $57. The technician actually took 3.5 hours. Most guys here say they took 1/2 hour to do the job, but Chrysler book said that they needed to take the weight off the suspension, and then after setting it back down and having weight back on the suspension when tightening the bolts to 125 ft. lbs. This is what made it a 3.5 hour job instead of a 1/2 hour job. They are a great dealer and honored their quote.
Now for the important news.,,,, At 2480 very easy miles, the bushings were scarred.
I am glad I took it in today, before more damage occurred.
All. This is very important to get done. I actually did both UCA and LCA bolts with two kits from Synergy. I used a 2' breaker bar, and 2' torque wrench. I was sore for days. Also, I did not do this all in one day. I did the front LCAs and track bar one day. They back LCAs and track bar another day. Then the front UCAs one day and rear UCAs the last. With the breaker bar in place on two bolts I hit the bar with a sledge to get it lose. I did not jack up the Wrangler at all. On a few bolts I used the factory jack to nudge the Jeep in the direction I needed to get the new bolt in the right spot. This slight nudging worked fine.
As noted above I did do the UCAs but from everything I have read it is not required like the LCAs and TB bolts.
While they are not the easiest things in the world i dont remember the nuts and bolts being that hard to crack. For the lower arms i let the wrench spin until it was flush on something so it wouldnt move and then pushed down on the other one with my leg. Then when they cracked loose you just loosen as normal. For the track bars you just gotta give it the ol' heeve ho! Lol theyll go.
Great info in this post, thanks so much and thought I'd return the favor. I ended up here trying to correct some annoying bump steer on my 2013 JKUR.
First of all, Northridge -- if you're reading this -- you do have a link to a video on your product page, but I looked 10X and can't find the instrux you say are there (you mentioned that in an earlier post). Anyway, glad someone found and posted them. The Synergy ones were helpful as well.
POV on the bolt kit... I have a Metal Cloak 3" lift plus MC's adjustable TB. The NR bolts fit everything perfectly. Feels so much better to have bolts that aren't threaded in their sleeves, and fit much tighter. Highly recommend this kit, even if you have to be a contortionist to install it.
So, about that install... I have only done the front TB and LCAs so far. That took over 4 hours, but a big part of that was messing with a steering stabilizer, which is the subject of another post. My suggestions on the install are to use a big ass pair of Vicegrips -- and a torque multiplier (see photos). In case you haven't used a TM, it's a geared transmission w/ a handle you brace against something solid. It multiplies your ratchet's torque to the socket by a particular factor to make the job easier. They're used a lot for lugnuts on trucks. My TM is a cheapo 4:1 from this site, and worth every penny. :iamhappy:
I also used the TM in most cases to tighten the bolts to spec, setting my torque wrench at 1/4 of spec (32#). That made it so much easier when lying under the Jeep. Hope this helps someone, good luck!
Op, to access the rear bolts for the lower Cas in front you need to remove the small bolt holding the heat shield in place (m10 socket) then bend the heat shield up out of the way.
I’ve had no issues with thr LCAs, crawling under using a 1/2” ratchet, box end and jack under the box end to hold it. I use anti seize on the new bolts. No problems torquing. Not sure I understand the brackets, literal round peg in a square hole. Tempted to weld the washers in place. This is my 2010 JK with 160k
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