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Old 04-15-2013, 08:02 PM   #1
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Help with upgrading my 130RES HU

I have the 130RES HU right now. It does have connectivity so I have bluetooth, steering wheel buttons and USB in the armrest. I want new speakers. Nothing crazy just something better. If I upgrade to a 430RBZ will I be able to upgrade the speakers easily?

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Old 04-15-2013, 09:36 PM   #2
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What I Did...

I know the speakers I got 77KICK10 from Kicker were direct plug and play, so I would assume it'd be the same for you.


What I did was...

I purchased and installed a Pioneer AVH-3400BH which has a 4x50w output. Then, I got two sets of 77KICK10 speakers from Kicker for $80 a pair.

Total: Was about $500 and it sounds significantly better in my opinion than the stock head unit (also coming from the 130) and speakers I had. If you want a more casual upgrade, you will need the PAC C2R-CHY4 Radio Replacement Interface to keep steering wheel controls.

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Old 04-15-2013, 09:52 PM   #3
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The RBZ has nothing to do with the speakers....it does not provide any more power than the 130.

You can get the 77Kick10's if you want...they are just "OK" (I them and an RBZ). If I were do to it over again, I would probably go Polk Audio. But to make the most out of new speakers, you need an amp. Honestly...to get the most out of new speakers, you need to tear out the factory system and start over.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:59 PM   #4
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Correct

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Originally Posted by panthermark View Post
The RBZ has nothing to do with the speakers....it does not provide any more power than the 130.

You can get the 77Kick10's if you want...they are just "OK" (I them and an RBZ). If I were do to it over again, I would probably go Polk Audio. But to make the most out of new speakers, you need an amp. Honestly...to get the most out of new speakers, you need to tear out the factory system and start over.
I have a 130 system. The only way to make your jeep sound better is to replace all the speakers, including the sub-woofer. You can keep the 130 Head Unit and all its functionality but you also have to add an amp.

This is what I did and it cost around $1200. My system ROCKS. I even have a separate switch now that controls the sub-woofer.

o (2) 6.5” Hybrid Audio Imagine Speakers for Dash 161-2
o (2) 6.5” ARC Audio Speakers for Light Bar XD1602
o (2) Hybrid Audio Tweeters going into Dash Tweeters (from above spkr)
o Kenwood 5-Chan Amplifier under Passenger Seat x700-5
o 8” JL Audio Subwoofer 8W1v2
o Stinger 8 GA Pro wiring kit SPK5681R
o Stinger 12’ 4chan RCA SI4412
o PAC RCA Line Level Controller LC1
o AAMP Gold RCA Couplers GRCAS
o PAC 2ch Adj LOC with Auto Remote
o PAC 4ch Line Output Converter
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:47 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by ahsumtoy View Post
I have a 130 system. The only way to make your jeep sound better is to replace all the speakers, including the sub-woofer. You can keep the 130 Head Unit and all its functionality but you also have to add an amp.

This is what I did and it cost around $1200. My system ROCKS. I even have a separate switch now that controls the sub-woofer.

o (2) 6.5” Hybrid Audio Imagine Speakers for Dash 161-2
o (2) 6.5” ARC Audio Speakers for Light Bar XD1602
o (2) Hybrid Audio Tweeters going into Dash Tweeters (from above spkr)
o Kenwood 5-Chan Amplifier under Passenger Seat x700-5
o 8” JL Audio Subwoofer 8W1v2
o Stinger 8 GA Pro wiring kit SPK5681R
o Stinger 12’ 4chan RCA SI4412
o PAC RCA Line Level Controller LC1
o AAMP Gold RCA Couplers GRCAS
o PAC 2ch Adj LOC with Auto Remote
o PAC 4ch Line Output Converter
You think it is cheaper going this route rather than an aftermarket HU and new speakers?

I like having a factory look but want better sound quality.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:58 AM   #6
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I believe the line outs on the factory units are all 2 ohms; get a decent set of 2 ohm speakers and you'll definitely see an improvement. It won't be audiophile quality, but it won't be $1200.

As far as factory look goes, it depends what you mean. A double DIN unit pretty much looks the same regardless; aftermarket units all need a kit to make them fit the factory hole, but they generally look pretty good.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:23 AM   #7
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I believe the line outs on the factory units are all 2 ohms; get a decent set of 2 ohm speakers and you'll definitely see an improvement. It won't be audiophile quality, but it won't be $1200.

As far as factory look goes, it depends what you mean. A double DIN unit pretty much looks the same regardless; aftermarket units all need a kit to make them fit the factory hole, but they generally look pretty good.
I'll have to look into 2ohm speakers. I don't need anything crazy. Just want an upgrade so I get better sound and can hear more with the top off.

I do love touch screen double din HU but I want the radio to still look stock. If I can use what I have now that will be best. If needed I would be an aftermarket one but would rather put that money towards wheels.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:34 AM   #8
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You think it is cheaper going this route rather than an aftermarket HU and new speakers?

I like having a factory look but want better sound quality.
If I read you correctly, this is exactly what I did. I left the factory look by not taking out the head unit. I replaced all the speakers, including the sub-woofer, put in a amp that really works correctly, a separate switch for the sub-woofer. All the speakers use the same factory grills so if you were to see my interior, it is exactly like it came from the factory. As far as the $1200, you can get by cheaper, but I used what I consider the best power amp and best speakers on the market. The amp alone cost about $400 and the two front speakers cost $275 for the pair. The upper speakers are around $115 a pair and the sub-woofer cost about $130. As far as the 2 ohm speakers, I used a RCA Line Level Controller which converts high-level speaker line outputs from an audio source into low-level RCA jacks for quality music listening and is compatible with most vehicles' OEM systems for wide-ranging use. This allows me to use the 130 HU that came with the Jeep. You can get cheaper amps and speakers to cut the cost but I went top of the line. All I can tell you is my system is now night and day from where it was. It is well over 100% better. I can crank the sound up as loud as I want and the speakers won't distort nor will they blow out.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:39 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by ahsumtoy View Post

If I read you correctly, this is exactly what I did. I left the factory look by not taking out the head unit. I replaced all the speakers, including the sub-woofer, put in a amp that really works correctly, a separate switch for the sub-woofer. All the speakers use the same factory grills so if you were to see my interior, it is exactly like it came from the factory. As far as the $1200, you can get by cheaper, but I used what I consider the best power amp and best speakers on the market. Others might not think so. All I can tell you is my system is now night and day from where it was.
Yeah so you hooked up a LOC inline from the HU to the amp and then the amp to the coaxial speakers so the amp is powering the speakers.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:10 AM   #10
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Yes,

That is exactly what I did. You can get cheaper amps and speakers to cut the cost but I went top of the line. I now have a complete factory look but the audio ROCKS. Don't go with getting the Kicker replacements. You can replace your factory speakers with Kickers for about $150 but it will NOT improve your sound that much. Do it the right way.

Top Audio Magazine from the UK said this about my speakers.

"These are bloody well-made and sound wonderful. Bright, crisp, detailed, sweet and enjoyable with awesome sonic cues and sound staging". They have made them their "Reference Standards".

I'm sure others have their favorite speakers, but I would not change one thing to my audio system.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:12 AM   #11
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I'll have to look into 2ohm speakers. I don't need anything crazy. Just want an upgrade so I get better sound and can hear more with the top off.

I do love touch screen double din HU but I want the radio to still look stock. If I can use what I have now that will be best. If needed I would be an aftermarket one but would rather put that money towards wheels.
Before you go buying speakers, double check with one of the more expert types on the subject like panthermark or eboven - I'm 90% sure I'm right, but I don't want you to go buying the wrong thing on my erroneous recommendation. I started with the premium audio system and replaced the whole thing, starting with the HU, and never directly connected the crappy factory speakers to anything but the equally crappy factory amp.

Although if you want to stay stock, I have a whole Jeep Premium Audio package available for sale......
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:20 AM   #12
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That is exactly what I did. You can get cheaper amps and speakers to cut the cost but I went top of the line. I now have a complete factory look but the audio ROCKS. Don't go with getting the Kicker replacements. You can replace your factory speakers with Kickers for about $150 but it will NOT improve your sound that much. Do it the right way.

Top Audio Magazine from the UK said this about my speakers.

"These are bloody well-made and sound wonderful. Bright, crisp, detailed, sweet and enjoyable with awesome sonic cues and sound staging". They have made them their "Reference Standards".

I'm sure others have their favorite speakers, but I would not change one thing to my audio system.
This is definitely the direction I'm going to go. Though I may go with the 430rbz to stay stock but upgrade the HU a little...that might be later on though. I don't mind the 130res.

I used to hook up all aftermarket systems in friends cars so doing this myself shouldn't be too bad.
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:05 AM   #13
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some good stuff here.

ahsumtoy, do you notice that the sound quality differs from different sources? IE, does bluetooth and XM sound crappier than lets say USB or CD?

my bone stock setup the XM and bluetooth don't sound as good as coming straight from USB drive.
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:32 AM   #14
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I'll have to look into 2ohm speakers. I don't need anything crazy. Just want an upgrade so I get better sound and can hear more with the top off.

I do love touch screen double din HU but I want the radio to still look stock. If I can use what I have now that will be best. If needed I would be an aftermarket one but would rather put that money towards wheels.
That is the problem...2 ohms drivers are few and far between. I think Infinity makes a pair, but they lacks bass. Also, by the nature of them being 2 ohms, they are going to sound worse than a 4 ohm system.
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:44 AM   #15
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That is the problem...2 ohms drivers are few and far between. I think Infinity makes a pair, but they lacks bass. Also, by the nature of them being 2 ohms, they are going to sound worse than a 4 ohm system.
Yeah that is what I have found in my little research I have done today. I like using a LOC and an aftermarket amp
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:25 PM   #16
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That is the problem...2 ohms drivers are few and far between. I think Infinity makes a pair, but they lacks bass. Also, by the nature of them being 2 ohms, they are going to sound worse than a 4 ohm system.
Or are you saying if I go with a LOC to an amp I still need to go 2ohm?
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:40 PM   #17
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Or are you saying if I go with a LOC to an amp I still need to go 2ohm?
LOC converts the line out to a pre-out type of signal, then you can run whatever speaker and amp combination you like.
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Old 04-16-2013, 12:42 PM   #18
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some good stuff here.

ahsumtoy, do you notice that the sound quality differs from different sources? IE, does bluetooth and XM sound crappier than lets say USB or CD?

my bone stock setup the XM and bluetooth don't sound as good as coming straight from USB drive.
The better your amp and speakers are more, the more you're going to notice crappier input quality. Playing a digital file via USB versus a signal received via the airwaves is always going to present a difference in quality, an improved sound system will only demonstrate that more greatly.
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:39 PM   #19
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There have been so many threads on this...and so many ways to go.

If you have the premium system and want to keep you factory HU (either you want to stay stock/stealth looking, or dropped a ton of cash on a 430N/730N upgrade) one way to go is with an LOC. I would assume that would be run of the front driver channels from the factory amp...and from there, run your amp. You won't have fade control, and will still be somewhat at the mercy of the factory processing, but you will at least have enough power (in 4 ohms) to run good drivers. If you have a good 5 channel amp, you can power a sub as well.

Or upgrade to a sound processor (LCQ1, Cleansweep, ect....which are basically advanced LOC's) to strip out the wattage and processing of the factory amp in order to get a (somewhat) clean pre-amp signal. You can run you own amps from there. Depending what you get, you can re-EQ the signal and have full fade and sub control.

Or dump the whole factory system. If I were going for pure sound quality, that is the route I would go. Of course you will lose the stealth/factory look, and you may lose some of the steering wheel controls (even with an adapter, I don't know if voice command still works)....but you will have a "pure" signal form the HU with front, rear, and a dedicated sub pre-amp outs.

It really depends on what you want, and how much you want to spend.

I'm cheap....and I want the factory look with no extra wiring and full steering wheel controls...so I only have an rbz, polyfil, and 77Kick10's in my premium system. Of course I'm stuck with all the limitation of the factory system:
Like 4 ohms drivers being powered by a 2 ohm amp....so my Kickers are actually less loud than the factory 2 ohm Alpine's....but at least they have tweeters.
Or the fact that I have no individual sub control, no access to gain or crossovers on the amp, rear speakers that are way too quiet and have the bass reduced, the horrible factory EQ'ing that has WAY too much mid-bass, and the fact that when I remove the top, the entire system automatically gets quieter (I need to do the jumper mod this summer).
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Old 04-16-2013, 01:59 PM   #20
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There have been so many threads on this...and so many ways to go.

If you have the premium system and want to keep you factory HU (either you want to stay stock/stealth looking, or dropped a ton of cash on a 430N/730N upgrade) one way to go is with an LOC. I would assume that would be run of the front driver channels from the factory amp...and from there, run your amp. You won't have fade control, and will still be somewhat at the mercy of the factory processing, but you will at least have enough power (in 4 ohms) to run good drivers. If you have a good 5 channel amp, you can power a sub as well.

Or upgrade to a sound processor (LCQ1, Cleansweep, ect....which are basically advanced LOC's) to strip out the wattage and processing of the factory amp in order to get a (somewhat) clean pre-amp signal. You can run you own amps from there. Depending what you get, you can re-EQ the signal and have full fade and sub control.

Or dump the whole factory system. If I were going for pure sound quality, that is the route I would go. Of course you will lose the stealth/factory look, and you may lose some of the steering wheel controls (even with an adapter, I don't know if voice command still works)....but you will have a "pure" signal form the HU with front, rear, and a dedicated sub pre-amp outs.

It really depends on what you want, and how much you want to spend.

I'm cheap....and I want the factory look with no extra wiring and full steering wheel controls...so I only have an rbz, polyfil, and 77Kick10's in my premium system. Of course I'm stuck with all the limitation of the factory system:
Like 4 ohms drivers being powered by a 2 ohm amp....so my Kickers are actually less loud than the factory 2 ohm Alpine's....but at least they have tweeters.
Or the fact that I have no individual sub control, no access to gain or crossovers on the amp, rear speakers that are way too quiet and have the bass reduced, the horrible factory EQ'ing that has WAY too much mid-bass, and the fact that when I remove the top, the entire system automatically gets quieter (I need to do the jumper mod this summer).
Thanks for the info. I don't need anything fancy. Don't really use fad either. Just want stock look with better speakers and maybe a 10" sub
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:34 PM   #21
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Lots of Good Info Here

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Originally Posted by dalearyous View Post
some good stuff here.

ahsumtoy, do you notice that the sound quality differs from different sources? IE, does bluetooth and XM sound crappier than lets say USB or CD?

my bone stock setup the XM and bluetooth don't sound as good as coming straight from USB drive.
I'm running a LOC and using high premium 4 ohm speakers with a good 5-Chan Amp so I can run my sub-woofer as well. With the setup that I have, everything I listen to is better. My CD's, the Radio, music I have on my iPod that I run from the USB port, and listening to Sirius is even better than before. I would say that the Radio, the iPod music and CD's are far superior and Sirius XM is much better than before but I can tell it is not as good as the other stuff.

Also, the way I set it up left me with all my controls I had before (steering wheel, fades, etc.). I added one other control and that was an individual knob for adjusting the back sub-woofer which you couldn't do before.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:24 PM   #22
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I'm running a LOC and using high premium 4 ohm speakers with a good 5-Chan Amp so I can run my sub-woofer as well. With the setup that I have, everything I listen to is better. My CD's, the Radio, music I have on my iPod that I run from the USB port, and listening to Sirius is even better than before. I would say that the Radio, the iPod music and CD's are far superior and Sirius XM is much better than before but I can tell it is not as good as the other stuff.

Also, the way I set it up left me with all my controls I had before (steering wheel, fades, etc.). I added one other control and that was an individual knob for adjusting the back sub-woofer which you couldn't do before.
Where did you install your amp? The good part about the factory set up is that the amp is hidden and off the floor. The stock amp location is a great spot...but it can't take a large amp. A few people have mounted two amps (stacked) in that location. Looked pretty sweet.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:30 PM   #23
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o PAC 2ch Adj LOC with Auto Remote
o PAC 4ch Line Output Converter
Is this the 4 channel and 2 channel LOCs you used?
Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future
Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

I noticed the 4 channel says it is for factory amped systems. I have the 130RES that isn't Infinity. I don't have a sub in the back. I assume it still has a factory amp right?
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:25 PM   #24
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Is this the 4 channel and 2 channel LOCs you used?
Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future
Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future

I noticed the 4 channel says it is for factory amped systems. I have the 130RES that isn't Infinity. I don't have a sub in the back. I assume it still has a factory amp right?
Nope, the non premium systems do not have an amp. They are actually easier to upgrade if you pull the HU.
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Old 04-16-2013, 07:05 PM   #25
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Nope, the non premium systems do not have an amp. They are actually easier to upgrade if you pull the HU.
So are you saying it would be easier just to replace it all together?
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:05 PM   #26
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So are you saying it would be easier just to replace it all together?
Only if you don't want to add an amp right now.

It is much easier to get a nice, high powered, 4 ohm HU to run your aftermarket drivers, along with the ability to add amps later.

But you do lose the some of the factory HU features and stealth.


With that said, it isn't that hard to simply add an LOC and amps to the base system....you keep all of the stealth features.


Really depends on what you want to do. Really isn't a right or wrong.

Why I push aftermarket HU's is because I hate, hate, hate the limited 3 band EQ's on the factory system.
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Old 04-16-2013, 08:21 PM   #27
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Only if you don't want to add an amp right now.

It is much easier to get a nice, high powered, 4 ohm HU to run your aftermarket drivers, along with the ability to add amps later.

But you do lose the some of the factory HU features and stealth.

With that said, it isn't that hard to simply add an LOC and amps to the base system....you keep all of the stealth features.

Really depends on what you want to do. Really isn't a right or wrong.

Why I push aftermarket HU's is because I hate, hate, hate the limited 3 band EQ's on the factory system.
Oh OK I thought you were saying because I don't have a factor amp I can't upgrade using a LOC and amp with new speakers.

Will that 4 channel loc work with my HU even though it says it is for OEM HUs with factory amps?

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