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Old 04-25-2011, 12:06 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX
It wasn't Chryslers idea, but over 40 years ago the hood springs were added for women drivers fingernail savers !!

Mine's had no flutter either, for 2˝ yrs-spring removal--FREE-

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Funny you should mention that. I removed the hook because I kept messing up my nails whenever I opened the hood. Haha.

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Old 04-25-2011, 08:58 AM   #32
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Heh Heh, well now thats kewl, I don;t even really know if my statement 's true-


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Funny you should mention that. I removed the hook because I kept messing up my nails whenever I opened the hood. Haha.
I madeitup, cause it just sounded like a good reason to me and probably is the reason for the hood change in the 50's-

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Old 04-25-2011, 09:26 AM   #33
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Not to mention they didn't have hood springs on the 50s models. At least my 59 CJ5 did not come with a hood spring

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Heh Heh, well now thats kewl, I don;t even really know if my statement 's true-




I madeitup, cause it just sounded like a good reason to me and probably is the reason for the hood change in the 50's-

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Old 04-25-2011, 09:30 AM   #34
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Wasn't talking about jeeps-


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Not to mention they didn't have hood springs on the 50s models. At least my 59 CJ5 did not come with a hood spring
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Old 04-25-2011, 12:56 PM   #35
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I removed my hood spring also about 2 months ago. No problems until last Friday. I have ran the jeep 92 mph as per my record keeper on my nav and no hood flutter. But Friday was the perfect storm so to speak. I usually travel mostly 4 lane roads, but Friday I was on a 200 mile trip and I ran 2 lane roads all the way. Wind was out of the north about 25 mph and gusty. I was east bound at 65 mph and I met a big semi with box trailer and my hood popped up about 2 inches. It was a big wind blast, the kind that throws you around on the road. Going east about 50 miles I meet about ten semi trucks and the hood only pops up about three times. Yes removing the spring helps most of the time, and all the time on 4 lane roads where you are not meeting traffic in a close proximity. By the way I was traveling south and east about 50-50 on this trip, and the wind was strong out of the north so I had a good tail wind about half the time. Made 21.4 mpg as per my DIC. I kind of like them fancy hood latches with the turnbuckle and pins. May make them my next mod. May leave the spring out anyway as then the pins should pop right in without holding down on the hood.
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Old 04-25-2011, 04:41 PM   #36
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I drove up to Oklahoma and back this morning. That's about a 100 miles round trip at highway speeds and the hood remained still and calm. I usually get hood flutter when passing 18 wheelers and did not get any today. I will continue to monitor the situation and report after I have driven a few more miles on days that have more wind than I experienced today.

So far, so good for my compressed spring test!
so this basicaly says remove spring


JIMBOX,,,thanks,,im about to go on a 500 mile trip next weekend and am trying to avoid any problems that may occur,,i have yet to have the flutter but,,not really wanting it either..
my guess is the only thing the spring is made for,is so you can get your fingers in between the hood and gril easily,,,but it didnt make it any harder without it and i can tell it wont hurt anything either..

i might still go with the daystar hood latches as they are made of a much stronger material and shouldnt take as much weathering abuse,,but just wanted to say thanks because i can tell that the spring removal is the first step...



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Old 04-25-2011, 04:48 PM   #37
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YO seelye, sounds good, removing that spring will definately help the "Flutter" occurance and I've heard reports from some guys that replaced their hood latchs, with those Daystar and they have stretched after a year-so the flutter occured again-


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Originally Posted by seelye View Post
so this basicaly says remove spring


JIMBOX,,,thanks,,im about to go on a 500 mile trip next weekend and am trying to avoid any problems that may occur,,i have yet to have the flutter but,,not really wanting it either..
my guess is the only thing the spring is made for,is so you can get your fingers in between the hood and gril easily,,,but it didnt make it any harder without it and i can tell it wont hurt anything either..

i might still go with the daystar hood latches as they are made of a much stronger material and shouldnt take as much weathering abuse,,but just wanted to say thanks because i can tell that the spring removal is the first step...
I really like those fancy ones with the SS adj pin and security wire, I just don't like the time it would take to get the hood open--

Removing the spring is good enough for me and it'll work for you to-

Good luck on your trip !

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Old 04-25-2011, 05:00 PM   #38
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sweet,,,i think i'll take the trip without new latches and see what happens,,i mean ive had worse thing happen
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:07 PM   #39
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I have the Daystar replacements on our JK and like them. They were easy to put on and after latching them it does not seem like the hood is going anywhere. The big question is will they be as tight in a year. I figure for $20 it was worth a try.
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:28 PM   #40
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DO NOT buy Daystars.
DO NOT take off the spring.
All you need are 11 inch zip ties.

The Daystars are too stiff and WILL probably break weak clamps or just stretch out. The spring is very useful and removing it doesn't solve all of the hood flutter. The 100% best and cheapest way is 11 inch zip-ties. You can get them anywhere. Just make sure they aren't set too tight to where they break. I've had a couple of them on my hood clamps for a few months now. No hood flutter, even at 100 MPH. Never had to replace them yet. Take it from someone with first-hand experience. The zip ties are the way to go.
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Old 04-25-2011, 05:50 PM   #41
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Taking my spring out when I get home. Thanks for saving me a little cash.
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Old 04-25-2011, 06:36 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thracks View Post
DO NOT buy Daystars.
DO NOT take off the spring.
All you need are 11 inch zip ties.

The Daystars are too stiff and WILL probably break weak clamps or just stretch out. The spring is very useful and removing it doesn't solve all of the hood flutter. The 100% best and cheapest way is 11 inch zip-ties. You can get them anywhere. Just make sure they aren't set too tight to where they break. I've had a couple of them on my hood clamps for a few months now. No hood flutter, even at 100 MPH. Never had to replace them yet. Take it from someone with first-hand experience. The zip ties are the way to go.
sorry but i do things the right way,,and please explain the usefulness of the spring,i am interested?
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:10 AM   #43
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All this talk about nailing the hood down shivers me timbers. When I got my first jeep in Nov. 07, it took me some time to get used to the sway of the jeep in traffic and the steering. When I got into gusty conditions, the hood surprised me when it fluttered. I was more concerned with it popping open than about the fact that it fluttered. Now, I consider it my early warning that a gust may blow me half of a lane over if I wasn't expecting it. In New England it can sometimes get pretty gnarly on the highway. I drove from MA to Gettysburg PA two Saturdays ago and as I was getting into Gettysburg, there was tornado warnings in the next county over. The rain drove so hard and the wind so gusty, I was slowed to 40 in a 65 zone. The hood never fluttered so much since I owned it. I was towing about 1500 lbs of camping gear behind me and the jeep was loaded with scouts from my troop. The hood flap was my warning to slow down. Think of if as your friend in safety. I advocate for safety in all hood flutter threads. Most folks just think: gotta nail that hood down but don't consider what the hood is trying to say to the driver. The jeep has a lot of vertical surface. Put that vertical surface against a strong wind gust from the side and you could get blown over about half of a lane before you know what happened. Think about it. Leave your early warning system in place. Let it remind you about conditions.
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:33 PM   #44
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I think the spring is for one handed people so they can get their fingers under the hood to the release latch. Chrysler wants to be handicap friendly.
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:53 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX
YO seelye, sounds good, removing that spring will definately help the "Flutter" occurance and I've heard reports from some guys that replaced their hood latchs, with those Daystar and they have stretched after a year-so the flutter occured again-

I really like those fancy ones with the SS adj pin and security wire, I just don't like the time it would take to get the hood open--

Removing the spring is good enough for me and it'll work for you to-

Good luck on your trip !

JIMBO
It really takes more time to close the hood. Opening is super quick. I can pull the pins in the same time it took to unhook the old latches with less effort even. Since I removed the hook I can have the hood open in a flash. Closing it takes just a bit longer but not a real problem.

You know you want em
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:58 PM   #46
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Heh Heh---BINGO---


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It really takes more time to close the hood. Opening is super quick. I can pull the pins in the same time it took to unhook the old latches with less effort even. Since I removed the hook I can have the hood open in a flash. Closing it takes just a bit longer but not a real problem.

You know you want em
Now that I'm not worried about tranny fluid bubbling outta the dipstick, I will probably get some ofem-but

I'm a little busy right now --soon

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Old 04-26-2011, 11:47 PM   #47
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2010 JK no problems with hood flutter stays flat and true at any speed.
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Old 04-27-2011, 01:25 AM   #48
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2010 JK no problems with hood flutter stays flat and true at any speed.
Thats good. My daughters 2005 Rubicon, my sons 2008 Rubicon and my 2011 Sahara hoods all have huge flutter. Removed hood spring now ok.
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Old 04-27-2011, 07:40 AM   #49
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It really takes more time to close the hood. Opening is super quick. I can pull the pins in the same time it took to unhook the old latches with less effort even. Since I removed the hook I can have the hood open in a flash. Closing it takes just a bit longer but not a real problem.

You know you want em
thanks
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:15 AM   #50
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Thanks Jimbo. Drove home into strong headwind yesterday at 60 mph and passed a few school buses and box trucks. Hood didn't even budge after removing the spring. What's your fix for the jeep getting pushed around in high winds?
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:39 AM   #51
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Damn, I don't have a real fix for high wind stability, but


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Thanks Jimbo. Drove home into strong headwind yesterday at 60 mph and passed a few school buses and box trucks. Hood didn't even budge after removing the spring. What's your fix for the jeep getting pushed around in high winds?
Driving in The Mojave area, the cross winds get over 50 mph and last year driving on hiwy 15 was difficult-LA to Vegas

Some of the mods I've done have helped that, so that now in NorNv-I'm pretty stable, I've already got the stiffest coil springs on my Rubi/RS9000XL adj shocks/6" wider track with Spidertrax wheel adapters/wider (fatter) tires and this has really reduced the crosswind affect on my JKU-

It's not unusual for winds to reach 75 MPH near Pyramid lake and even though that affects my JKU, I have much easier/better/less input required for control !!

It's a jungle out there !

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Old 04-27-2011, 12:17 PM   #52
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jimbox,what size spidertrax do you have?

edit: and do you think it would make any difference with factory wheels?
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:36 PM   #53
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They're standard 1.5" and-


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jimbox,what size spidertrax do you have?

edit: and do you think it would make any difference with factory wheels?
I'm not sure what you mean by, "any difference"-they will, obviously move the tires out 1.5" and closer to the edge of the fenders-

Just that alone, wouldn't make any appreciable difference in crosswind stability though !

Shocks and springs are the main corrective actions, because the more quick "LEAN" confuses the front steering--

Unless you wanna take the top off-there's a real savior for crosswind stability-

Good luck

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Old 04-27-2011, 10:24 PM   #54
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sorry but i do things the right way,,and please explain the usefulness of the spring,i am interested?
If it works, it's the right way. Simple as that. No need to shell out extra money for aftermarket parts if a quick fix does the job just as well or better.

As for the spring, it makes it easier to lift up the hood after it's been unlatched.
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:16 PM   #55
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I have to drop one last comment on the hood flutter issue. The spring removal seems to do the trick but at least one member still experienced it after removing the spring. That leads me to believe that my original thought on the spring removal is indeed true. Removing the spring only helps.

The reason for that line of thinking is as follows. The spring sits between the hood and core support and lifts the hood enough to easily access the safety hook. I really don't see how removing a spring from in between two pieces can "eliminate" upward travel. Since it would constantly be applying force on the hood I can understand that it would take less wind force to lift the hood with it installed. Removing it makes it take more wind force for the hood to overcome the latches. I believe that in extreme conditions the hood can and will lift without the spring, especially if you have removed the factory air dam.

In my opinion the only true way to eliminate hood lift is by eliminating the "stretch" in the hood latches. The only way to do that is with different latches. I don't work for drake offroad but I believe their latches to be the best looking/functioning available. There is absolutely no way for the hood to lift with these installed because they are rigid. No stretch in the latch. Close as you can come to bolting the hood down. Not cheap but the only way to truly solve the problem is these latches or something just like it. My .02
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Old 04-27-2011, 11:27 PM   #56
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Lets look atit this way-


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I have to drop one last comment on the hood flutter issue. The spring removal seems to do the trick but at least one member still experienced it after removing the spring. That leads me to believe that my original thought on the spring removal is indeed true. Removing the spring only helps.

The reason for that line of thinking is as follows. The spring sits between the hood and core support and lifts the hood enough to easily access the safety hook. I really don't see how removing a spring from in between two pieces can "eliminate" upward travel. Since it would constantly be applying force on the hood I can understand that it would take less wind force to lift the hood with it installed. Removing it makes it take more wind force for the hood to overcome the latches. I believe that in extreme conditions the hood can and will lift without the spring, especially if you have removed the factory air dam.

In my opinion the only true way to eliminate hood lift is by eliminating the "stretch" in the hood latches. The only way to do that is with different latches. I don't work for drake offroad but I believe their latches to be the best looking/functioning available. There is absolutely no way for the hood to lift with these installed because they are rigid. No stretch in the latch. Close as you can come to bolting the hood down. Not cheap but the only way to truly solve the problem is these latches or something just like it. My .02
Weak latchs hold hood down/spring pushes hood up/wind gusts "FORCE" hood up and STRETCHS latches----NOW, thru a cycle of airforce/stretching/latch clamp and recoiling spring (causing flutter)--

Without the spring a very strong gust, especially without the lower air dam, will "LIFT" the hood, because of weaker latches, but---no flutter !

Kapish ?

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Old 04-27-2011, 11:58 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by JIMBOX
Lets look atit this way-

Weak latchs hold hood down/spring pushes hood up/wind gusts "FORCE" hood up and STRETCHS latches----NOW, thru a cycle of airforce/stretching/latch clamp and recoiling spring (causing flutter)--

Without the spring a very strong gust, especially without the lower air dam, will "LIFT" the hood, because of weaker latches, but---no flutter !

Kapish ?

JIMBO
I follow you boss but ultimately what I'm getting at is the latch being the "real" problem. I know everyone refers to it as "flutter" but...........I could care less if there is flutter ( up and down motion). I am only concerned with the up part of the equation. I do still think if taking out the spring solves your problem then by all means it is a very cost effective way of taking care of things but don't get upset if you see your hood lift sometime and don't come blaming jimbox for suggesting it.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:43 AM   #58
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Yea, I hear ya, but


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I follow you boss but ultimately what I'm getting at is the latch being the "real" problem. I know everyone refers to it as "flutter" but...........I could care less if there is flutter ( up and down motion). I am only concerned with the up part of the equation. I do still think if taking out the spring solves your problem then by all means it is a very cost effective way of taking care of things but don't get upset if you see your hood lift sometime and don't come blaming jimbox for suggesting it.
I mentioned this a couple years ago and didn't get any response-after I removed my hood spring, I put a trunk gasket across the hood "SILL" to completely seal that FRONT edge-

Air can't escape thru there at all-

The stock "lip" is a little short piece of flimsy rubber-worthless-

I'll look for a pic

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Old 04-28-2011, 02:25 PM   #59
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Either way you look at it with the spring, it still takes 2 hands to open the hood with the spring installed or not.
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:46 PM   #60
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The hood flutter destroyed my bug deflector and broke evry mounting tab underneath. I will have to try removing the spring and see what happens before I replaced the deflector. Thanks.

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