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Old 07-15-2013, 08:35 AM   #1
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Hood Louvers - Evaluating Options

Poison Spyder - $159 powder coated black. $129 bare metal. Looks best to my eyes. One piece suggests easiest installation. Would be a no-brainer for me if it didn't have their logo / name permanently cut into it. I hate paying money to people so I can advertise for them. Still trying to decide how to remove Body Armor's name from my cargo basket. Jeep JK Exterior Upgrades | JK Hood Louver | Poison Spyder Customs

Hyline - $201 powder coated black. $180 bare metal. I don't like the look as well. Multiple parts means multiple holes and more chances to mess up installation. However, the locations seem to be more suited to letting heat out (not blocked by hood support), so probably more effective. Hyline Offroad, LLC

Runcool - From $89 to $359 depending on which ones you pick. Different sizes and shapes. Allow for customizing airflow like the Hyline. Increase installation difficulty. Kind of split the difference between Hyline and Poison Spyder. Hood Louvers | RunCool | Hood Vents For Your Vehicle - | The Most Experienced Hood Louver Company In The World! The Most Cost-Saving Way To Cool Hot Engines!Hood Louvers | RunCool | Hood Vents For Your Vehicle -

American Rock Rods - $72 to $168. Like the Runcool, they are a one size fits all deal where you pick which ones you like and where you want to put them. AmericanRockRods.com

Poly Performance (Synergy Suspension) - $145 black powdercoat. $125 raw. Looks just about like the Poison Spyder but with a different logo. Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY*::*Body & Exterior*::*Hood Louvers*::*Synergy Suspension 07-12 Jeep JK Louvered Hood Panel - 4X4 Off-Road Parts

Not much way to judge airflow except calibrated eyeball and placement on the hood. If I did this correctly, the pictures are in order. Wanted them inline with text, but couldn't figure it out.

Thoughts? Did I miss any?
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:39 AM   #2
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Answering my own question about others...

GenRight - $60. Two small vents for either side. Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY*::*Body & Exterior*::*Hood Louvers*::*Synergy Suspension 07-12 Jeep JK Louvered Hood Panel - 4X4 Off-Road Parts

Rebel Offroad has a whole 'Heat Expulsion Hood'. Probably outside this thread, but worth mentioning.

Pic is of the GenRight.
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:40 AM   #3
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What color is your Jeep?
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:00 AM   #4
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Tagged.

I'm leaning to the PSC due to the size.

I just have to decide to buy the best tool for cutting my hood. My history of trimming metal parts is a complete disaster becuase I get in a hurry.

I'll also be cutting for a snorkel one day.

Anyway, if the job is to release heat, I figure there's two factors to consider:

- Are the louvers over the best spot?
- What's the biggest area you can cover with a louver and keep the integrity of the hood?

My assumption (guess) is that in low-speed situations, a larger louvers lets the most heat escape.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:12 AM   #5
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My Jeep is silver (avatar).

I think size and placement are clearly the issues in heat release. As to cutting, it's been a few years. I last used tin snips. I think a jig saw on heavily taped hood is best, but you have to be careful not to cut the hood supports underneath if you go over them. Some of these don't. For those areas, you would need a cutting wheel or back to the tin snips.

I'm leaning toward the dual vents I displayed a picture of from RunCool. They seem well placed and large. Sorry the pics didn't come out in proper order. The ones I'm describing display in the top pic of the Army marking style Jeep.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:17 AM   #6
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I like the first two, looks cooler than an AEV hood. I think the AEV hood looks a lot better than the louvers in the middle setups.

I hate how the AEV hood deletes the windshield bumpers though.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:43 AM   #7
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I have the Hyline vent installed on my TJ. I used a small cut off tool from harbor freight. Was an easy install and does not effect the hood support. An amazing amount of heat comes out if the vents. I went with the Hyline because it was set up for the older hood with two spray nozzles for the windshield and as stated above, I do not like giving free advertising.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:40 AM   #8
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I have the PS Louver. It's made from aluminum so it won't rust. I got the powdercoated one. Here's some notes that may help you.

SUPPLIES NEEDED
To cut the hood you want an electrical 4.5" angle grinder with a cut off wheel. You can get one at harbor freight for $25. I got a Dremel 10 amp one at lowes for $80. The cut off wheels are about $2. I only need one cut off wheel. It's more like grinding than cutting. It takes a few strokes to get through. I tried a 3" harbor freight air cut off tool first and it was way too weak. One guy used a dremmel, but that is ridiculous. I guess that took 6-8 hours vs 2 hours with an angle grinder. If you have like a 100 gal air compressor then an air angle grinder would let you vary the speed. I would just get the electric

Here I a video of me cutting the hood.
http://youtu.be/9xWgkeotr0k

I would get a full face shield and some gloves. Long sleeves are a good idea too.

Your also going to need a 3/4" and 1" hole saw. That's about $20. The pilot drill is attached with an Allen key. You may need to pick up one of those. Of course you will need a drill.

There is some glue that you will cut. It burns and has a super nasty toxic smell. It will give you a headache. I would also get a charcoal painters/surgeon mask. That's about $5.

You'll also need a punch for starting the holes.

You'll want to get some touch up paint. I also sanded down a bit the bracing underneath and sprayed it black. Be careful by the hoods spray nossel hole to tape that off. I would pick up a roll of 2" painters tape. That should allow you to tape off everything that's not getting cut.

You will defiantly want 2 sharpie markers. They will perfectly hold the template in place where the hoods nipples are removed.

A magnet wand can come in handy after cutting holes with the hole saw.

Make sure you have a tool for the attachment bolts. I think it's some type of hex bolt.

TIPS
I did the hood with it still installed. The angle grinder sparks ruined my windshield. I embedded metal filings into the glass. If I would have put a piece of cardboard covering it at the start I would have been good. You also need to cover the engine with this technique. I used a tarp and it now has tons of pin holes from the angle grinder sparks. I propped the hood open with a 2x4 laid over the radiator. Of course I used towels were the hood rested on the board. You have to remove the air vent to get the innermost bolts in. I would likely remove the hood if I did it again.

If you take the hood off be the top obvious bolts it will break a paint seal on the bolts and around the hinge. A better method is to take off the middle air vent, and removing the hood from the bottom attachment bolts. I was too dumb to realize that I could lay the hood gently on the windshield vs just propping it on the support rod. That would give enough room to put the grunt on the bolts needed to get them off. First you need to take off the wiper blades to get the vent off. You pull up the plastic at the very base of the blades to get to the nut. Then bend the blades up a give a good wiggle. You will also need to remove the 4 push pins in the center of the air vent. That was a bit hard. The outside bolts are T30.

When your cutting you want to be careful not to cut through the underneath structure. I would try to mark its general location before cutting the hood. Being that it's glued down it can be hard to tell when your through one layer. I ended up trimming the structure some. Some of the holes you drill that's a factor too.

I would move around when cutting the hood so no one part gets too hot. It's also not a bad idea to let your angle grinder cool down after about 20 minutes of cutting. Always give the grinder the respect it deserves. Keep a good two hand grip on it.

The project took me 12 hours. I'm sure I could do it in half that. I really went nuts with a small touch up paint brush on all the drill holes. I also went ape shit making sure the holes looked nice underneath and totally de-burred.
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:53 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster76 View Post
I have the PS Louver. It's made from aluminum so it won't rust. I got the powdercoated one. Here's some notes that may help you.

SUPPLIES NEEDED
To cut the hood you want an electrical 4.5" angle grinder with a cut off wheel. You can get one at harbor freight for $25. I got a Dremel 10 amp one at lowes for $80. The cut off wheels are about $2. I only need one cut off wheel. It's more like grinding than cutting. It takes a few strokes to get through. I tried a 3" harbor freight air cut off tool first and it was way too weak. One guy used a dremmel, but that is ridiculous. I guess that took 6-8 hours vs 2 hours with an angle grinder. If you have like a 100 gal air compressor then an air angle grinder would let you vary the speed. I would just get the electric

Here I a video of me cutting the hood.
Hood Cut for Poison Spyder Louver - YouTube

I would get a full face shield and some gloves. Long sleeves are a good idea too.

Your also going to need a 3/4" and 1" hole saw. That's about $20. The pilot drill is attached with an Allen key. You may need to pick up one of those. Of course you will need a drill.

There is some glue that you will cut. It burns and has a super nasty toxic smell. It will give you a headache. I would also get a charcoal painters/surgeon mask. That's about $5.

You'll also need a punch for starting the holes.

You'll want to get some touch up paint. I also sanded down a bit the bracing underneath and sprayed it black. Be careful by the hoods spray nossel hole to tape that off. I would pick up a roll of 2" painters tape. That should allow you to tape off everything that's not getting cut.

You will defiantly want 2 sharpie markers. They will perfectly hold the template in place where the hoods nipples are removed.

A magnet wand can come in handy after cutting holes with the hole saw.

Make sure you have a tool for the attachment bolts. I think it's some type of hex bolt.

TIPS
I did the hood with it still installed. The angle grinder sparks ruined my windshield. I embedded metal filings into the glass. If I would have put a piece of cardboard covering it at the start I would have been good. You also need to cover the engine with this technique. I used a tarp and it now has tons of pin holes from the angle grinder sparks. I propped the hood open with a 2x4 laid over the radiator. Of course I used towels were the hood rested on the board. You have to remove the air vent to get the innermost bolts in. I would likely remove the hood if I did it again.

If you take the hood off be the top obvious bolts it will break a paint seal on the bolts and around the hinge. A better method is to take off the middle air vent, and removing the hood from the bottom attachment bolts. I was too dumb to realize that I could lay the hood gently on the windshield vs just propping it on the support rod. That would give enough room to put the grunt on the bolts needed to get them off. First you need to take off the wiper blades to get the vent off. You pull up the plastic at the very base of the blades to get to the nut. Then bend the blades up a give a good wiggle. You will also need to remove the 4 push pins in the center of the air vent. That was a bit hard. The outside bolts are T30.

When your cutting you want to be careful not to cut through the underneath structure. I would try to mark its general location before cutting the hood. Being that it's glued down it can be hard to tell when your through one layer. I ended up trimming the structure some. Some of the holes you drill that's a factor too.

I would move around when cutting the hood so no one part gets too hot. It's also not a bad idea to let your angle grinder cool down after about 20 minutes of cutting. Always give the grinder the respect it deserves. Keep a good two hand grip on it.

The project took me 12 hours. I'm sure I could do it in half that. I really went nuts with a small touch up paint brush on all the drill holes. I also went ape shit making sure the holes looked nice underneath and totally de-burred.


^^^ this guy!

Poison Spyder and I did the same thing, took my time, went very slow with all my cuts, de-burring, painting covered metal, ensuring it looked factory from underneath, even took out the cowel and removed the hidden hood bolts to avoid ruining the paint of hood bolts (which are painted after being mounted to Jeep). Really taking your time makes a difference.
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