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Old 02-10-2012, 12:41 AM   #1
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How bad does mpg get with 35's

Ok so as a few of you know I just bought a brand new 2011 Rubicon and I have been so caught up in work and being busy that I have not modded my baby yet. So I have been looking into lift kits and and read every review to pick the right lift for me but before I just start buying parts I wanted to know how bad will my mpg's get when I add 35inch tires or even 36inch tires? I dont do alot of offroading but when I get the chance I try considering I live in Nyc but I love the wide and aggressive stance with an exceptionable lift of about 3inch's because I dont want to mess with the drive line and definitely not regear because I do alot of highway driving on weekends and I mean ALOT. Or do you guys have any suggestions? How high can I go without messing with the driveline or dropping the transfercase?

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Old 02-10-2012, 12:48 AM   #2
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I've got 35s on mine, a 4" lift, and about 400lbs of bumpers and skids. I lost about 1.5 mpg from stock.

IMO, if you don't lift it at least 4", you might as well low-ride it and put 25" tires on it.



Jk on the latter point.

EDIT: Whoops. Mine is a 2012, which has pretty different dynamics.

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Old 02-10-2012, 12:53 AM   #3
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If it's a 4 door then a 3" lift will be ok on your drive shafts, not sure about a 2 door. I have more lift than that on my 4 door & my pinion angles are fine. If you go to 35's & it is an auto' it will be slow as a wet week without re-gearing, the fuel well it's going to make a bit of difference with the 35's but each one is different
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Old 02-10-2012, 06:04 AM   #4
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Talking Well......

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarineHawk View Post
...............................
IMO, if you don't lift it at least 4", you might as well low-ride it and put 25" tires on it.
Jk on the latter point.

EDIT: Whoops. Mine is a 2012, which has pretty different dynamics.
.............. I tend to agree with this statement, the more time I spend on our Mtn Trails
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Old 02-10-2012, 06:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fast lorinser
Ok so as a few of you know I just bought a brand new 2011 Rubicon and I have been so caught up in work and being busy that I have not modded my baby yet. So I have been looking into lift kits and and read every review to pick the right lift for me but before I just start buying parts I wanted to know how bad will my mpg's get when I add 35inch tires or even 36inch tires? I dont do alot of offroading but when I get the chance I try considering I live in Nyc but I love the wide and aggressive stance with an exceptionable lift of about 3inch's because I dont want to mess with the drive line and definitely not regear because I do alot of highway driving on weekends and I mean ALOT. Or do you guys have any suggestions? How high can I go without messing with the driveline or dropping the transfercase?
You will definitely need a regear with that set up. If you don't you will be around 8 and 11 mpg and it'll be so bogged down that you will realize the need for a regear. Maybe you can get by for a few days since you have the 4.10 gears but you want to be at 5.38 or even 5.88(do they make that for Dana 44's?) if you don't plan on going less than 35" tires
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Old 02-10-2012, 07:37 AM   #6
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I have the same concerns but I have a 2012 with the new power train so there are different variables. But from what I read its been a back and forth, some people are claiming that with a 2012 auto with 4.10 there is no issue with 35's. I'm on the fence, between 33 and 35. I love my Rubi the way it runs and don't want to mess with it too much.
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Old 02-10-2012, 07:53 AM   #7
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MPG and 2012 Rubicon JKU

My 2012 JKU with 4:10 gears and automatic got about 17-18 off the dealership floor. I lifted it with a 2.5 RK Max Travel and it might have dropped to 16-17 MPG, but I'm not sure....didn't run that way long.

I put 35 inch Nitto M/T's on ( 80 lb tires....heavy) on AEV Pintlers and I'm now getting 14.5 MPG. I'm okay with that. I'd prefer higher, but I didn't buy a civic.

It's all about choices.
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Old 02-10-2012, 08:14 AM   #8
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I have a 2011 JKU with a 4.5 long arm and 35,s, atuo, and 3.73's. granted it is not ideal but I get around just fine no bogging problems as stated. I did recalabrate shift points for tire size and plug's intake and exshuast but everone will tell you thats a waste of money. I run 80 to 85 mph down the interstate all day long at around 2500 rpm's and 15 -17 mpg. dont get me wrong i will regear when i go to 37's next year. and 3.73 are tough offroad. but in your rubi you'll be fine lots of guys running that. some like some dont you'll need to decide for yourself but you will be fine if you choose to go to 35's
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:16 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay-1
I have a 2011 JKU with a 4.5 long arm and 35,s, atuo, and 3.73's. granted it is not ideal but I get around just fine no bogging problems as stated. I did recalabrate shift points for tire size and plug's intake and exshuast but everone will tell you thats a waste of money. I run 80 to 85 mph down the interstate all day long at around 2500 rpm's and 15 -17 mpg. dont get me wrong i will regear when i go to 37's next year. and 3.73 are tough offroad. but in your rubi you'll be fine lots of guys running that. some like some dont you'll need to decide for yourself but you will be fine if you choose to go to 35's
I wasn't necessarily saying it wouldn't work to run 35's and 4.10 but I am just saying that he should seriously consider a steeper ratio if he would like to get it back to the stock power which is 5.38 and 35's
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Old 02-10-2012, 12:07 PM   #10
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In NYC, your mileage will suck much worse than if you were in the real world. Prepare for single digits.
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Old 02-10-2012, 12:32 PM   #11
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Yea.......

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In NYC, your mileage will suck much worse than if you were in the real world. Prepare for single digits.
...at about $4.50 tp $5.00 per gallon

Enjoy while U can
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Old 02-10-2012, 02:12 PM   #12
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2012 Wrangler Sport here with 2.5 lift and 35" Grapplers. I don't think to date with 3K miles that I have gotten over 14 mpg. I enjoy my Jeep so much the mpg just does not matter that much but assume if DD it would for many
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Old 02-11-2012, 03:04 PM   #13
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Danm that sucks, I really like that wide and aggressive lifted stance but me living in NYC I really can't be affording to loose more then 3-4mpgs.... So if I go to 33's I won't need to regear and the mileage won't be as bad ? Correct me if I'm wrong and yes it's a 2011 4door Rubicon auto.
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Old 02-11-2012, 03:15 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 1fast lorinser View Post
Danm that sucks, I really like that wide and aggressive lifted stance but me living in NYC I really can't be affording to loose more then 3-4mpgs.... So if I go to 33's I won't need to regear and the mileage won't be as bad ? Correct me if I'm wrong and yes it's a 2011 4door Rubicon auto.
You won't lose as many mpg's. You will lose some power from the larger tires, but not nearly as bas as if you went with 35's. Depends largely on your Jeep's current gearing.

You won't feel it much in the city, mostly on the highway in high gear when you try to pass slower traffic, or go up hills.
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Old 02-11-2012, 04:47 PM   #15
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I have 33's on my '12 sport unlimited with 3.73 gearing. When stock I was getting around 18mpg, but since adding the 33's I get around 15 (tire size adjusted using Procal). I took about a 3mpg hit and that's not even with a lift. Always find it amazing how some guys claim 1-2mpg loss when going to 35's and a 3"+ lift. Must be nice!
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Old 02-11-2012, 05:51 PM   #16
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A mere 1-2 mpg loss going to 35's is impractical, unless the mpg was 13ish before the change.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:13 AM   #17
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From the looks of this ill have to start looking into a beater for my daily use lol. I really appreciate all the help you guys have provided me with. For now Ill start with a lift kit maybe 3-4inch and then I guess I will move onto getting 35's a little later and then a regear after I see how much the performance drops.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:15 AM   #18
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I have a 2011 JKU with a 4.5 long arm and 35,s, atuo, and 3.73's. granted it is not ideal but I get around just fine no bogging problems as stated. I did recalabrate shift points for tire size and plug's intake and exshuast but everone will tell you thats a waste of money. I run 80 to 85 mph down the interstate all day long at around 2500 rpm's and 15 -17 mpg. dont get me wrong i will regear when i go to 37's next year. and 3.73 are tough offroad. but in your rubi you'll be fine lots of guys running that. some like some dont you'll need to decide for yourself but you will be fine if you choose to go to 35's
How did you change your shift points and what intake and exhaust did you upgrade to because if your running 80 85mph and 2500 rpm's I think thats awesome.
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:22 AM   #19
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I went form an average of 17 MPG on stock Rubicon BFG MT's.
14 MPG on 33"x12.5R15 pro Comp MT's.
11 MPG on 35"x12.5R15 Pro Comp MT's.
35's are simply heavy tires, unsprung weight just takes it's toll. I keep a fuel log book in my glove box, the dash unit is way off.
Even with 4.10 gears it was slow going to get up to 65 and much longer braking distance. Looks cool but not that much fun to drive on the street.

CAI, chip and high flow exhaust might help, cost vs. gain I'd rather buy lockers for better off road performce than add a few HP on the road.
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Old 02-13-2012, 03:12 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 1fast lorinser View Post
From the looks of this ill have to start looking into a beater for my daily use lol. I really appreciate all the help you guys have provided me with. For now Ill start with a lift kit maybe 3-4inch and then I guess I will move onto getting 35's a little later and then a regear after I see how much the performance drops.
3-4" lift?

You can clear 35's with a 2" BB, man. Most go with a 2.5" lift, such as the TeraFlex or Rock Krawler.

Your costs will rise almost exponentially with each .5" you go above 2.5". Not to mention the headache factor. Not saying you shouldn't do it, but if you decide to go that way it would benefit you...greatly...to be able to do your own wrenching.

Your lift is not the place to go cheap. You're essentially changing the structural engineering of a cinderblock that can go 70 mph on the freeway. Buy a half-assed lift, and your Jeep experience will probably suck.

You wanna save $$, do it on grab handles, or something.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:47 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by MarineHawk View Post
I've got 35s on mine, a 4" lift, and about 400lbs of bumpers and skids. I lost about 1.5 mpg from stock.

IMO, if you don't lift it at least 4", you might as well low-ride it and put 25" tires on it.



Jk on the latter point.

EDIT: Whoops. Mine is a 2012, which has pretty different dynamics.
Thats funny
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:50 PM   #22
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I went form an average of 17 MPG on stock Rubicon BFG MT's.
14 MPG on 33"x12.5R15 pro Comp MT's.
11 MPG on 35"x12.5R15 Pro Comp MT's.
35's are simply heavy tires, unsprung weight just takes it's toll. I keep a fuel log book in my glove box, the dash unit is way off.
Even with 4.10 gears it was slow going to get up to 65 and much longer braking distance. Looks cool but not that much fun to drive on the street.

CAI, chip and high flow exhaust might help, cost vs. gain I'd rather buy lockers for better off road performce than add a few HP on the road.
I really dont need lockers because I really dont offroad alot nor have the time as I mentioned previously just looking for the wide aggressive stance. The most offroading I get to do is when we get snow blizzards out here in nyc and I use the parks and back roads ( SHHH dont tell anyone ) lol

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3-4" lift?

You can clear 35's with a 2" BB, man. Most go with a 2.5" lift, such as the TeraFlex or Rock Krawler.

Your costs will rise almost exponentially with each .5" you go above 2.5". Not to mention the headache factor. Not saying you shouldn't do it, but if you decide to go that way it would benefit you...greatly...to be able to do your own wrenching.

Your lift is not the place to go cheap. You're essentially changing the structural engineering of a cinderblock that can go 70 mph on the freeway. Buy a half-assed lift, and your Jeep experience will probably suck.

You wanna save $$, do it on grab handles, or something.

Yea after reading your advice and doing a bit more research it starting to sound more practical to go with a 2.5 lift or so to clear the tires then just go straight to a 4inch lift. Like I previously said im not willing to mess with the driveline.
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:01 PM   #23
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I have 2012 JKUR 6sp, 4:10, 2" AEV Spacer lift, 285/75R16 tires and I'm getting about 15.5 mixed if I stay at posted speeds mostly 65. about 2mpg less then stock
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:29 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 1fast lorinser View Post
Yea after reading your advice and doing a bit more research it starting to sound more practical to go with a 2.5 lift or so to clear the tires then just go straight to a 4inch lift. Like I previously said im not willing to mess with the driveline.
4" lift = new driveshafts.

Can't be any clearer.
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:25 AM   #25
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After reading and reading, I think I will go with 33's for mileage and keep the 17in wheel on my 2012 rubi 4dr 3.73 but I am up in the air on aev 2" spacer lift or a 2.5in ? brand lift. Would it look funny with a 3" or 3.5" lift???
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Old 02-14-2012, 12:46 AM   #26
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After reading and reading, I think I will go with 33's for mileage and keep the 17in wheel on my 2012 rubi 4dr 3.73
Wise. Except for the 17" part. Smaller rims and tires combined will cost you less than tires alone for the 17's, and will also save you $$ when it comes time to replace said tires. Your call.

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but I am up in the air on aev 2" spacer lift or a 2.5in ? brand lift.
Depends on what you're gonna do with your Jeep. I'd recommend the 2.5" lift, simply because it gives you more options down the road, should you later decide to go with bigger tires. Also, the 2.5" lift will be better if you decide to wheel your rig.

Quote:
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Would it look funny with a 3" or 3.5" lift???
Yes. Hilarious.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:06 AM   #27
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I have a 4.5in lift with 35s. I get around 15-17mpg in the city.

Im puttin new driveshafts in this month.
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:47 AM   #28
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2011- 14-15mpg with 35" Toyos...
2012- 15-16mpg with 35" Toyos..

I drive normal, not like an old lady...

If fuel mileage is a concern then you should stick with 33s
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:10 AM   #29
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i wont be rock crawling or want to use a ladder to get into my jeep. 2.5 i believe would be enough for my off road habits. i think the perfect look for jeeps personally is a 3.5 lift with 35's , but i have never owned a jeep before and i am not sure how fast i will "butterfly" into an all out jeeper wanting to go big lol. long story short, the "unknown" of how bad my fuel mileage would take a hit and the extra wear on the innards (bearings and such) of using bigger heavier setups is what keeps me wanting to stay with 2.5 with stock bf's or later doing 33's. but if those things were not a factor then i LOVE the looks of the 3.5 on 35's. i dont have a lead foot, it wont be my daily driver, and i take great care in longevity. the devil on my shoulder says screw it and go bigger, the angel/pocket book says stay smaller......crazy!!
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:15 PM   #30
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I have a 4.5in lift with 35s. I get around 15-17mpg in the city.

Im puttin new driveshafts in this month.


I am runnin 373's and 35's and getting 10mpg highway and 6.6 city its killin me did you regear yours? higher then 373?

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