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Old 09-06-2011, 08:22 AM   #1
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Question How does sway bar disconnect work?

Hello,
I am a new WF member and new owner of '11 Rubicon, which I love so far. However, I am at a loss to understand how the electronic sway bar disconnect works from a technical perspective. In my casual observation of the front suspension, I could not see anything that appears different from normal. What should I see and how does it work? Please don't restate the obivious... Thanks LW

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Old 09-06-2011, 08:45 AM   #2
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The swaybar is electrically COUPLED --it's a two piece bar/w an electric "COG" connection-must be in 4hi/4lo for disconnect and can't go over 18mph-

You hit the switch and it "UNCOGS"---get level, hit the switch and it "RECOGS"

simple-expensive !!

Don't play withit--use IF YOU NEED TO !

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Old 09-06-2011, 08:47 AM   #3
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Take a look at this picture.

The "Electric Sway Bar Disconnect" is in yellow, and the "Sway Bar" itself is orange. Note the way the orange sway bar begins on one side of the Jeep, passes through the yellow disconnect, and continues onto the other side of the Jeep.

My understanding--in line with what Jimbo said--is that when you push the button inside your cabin, the yellow disconnect actually severs the sway bar in half. This allows the driver's side of the orange sway bar to move independent of the passenger side, thereby allow for more articulation. However, you won't visibly see any difference from the outside.

If us non-Rubicon owners want a similar result, we need to manually disconnect the red "Sway Bar Links." This will disconnect the sway bar itself from the front axle, and, again, allow for more articulation.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
The swaybar is electrically COUPLED --it's a two piece bar/w an electric "COG" connection-must be in 4hi/4lo for disconnect and can't go over 18mph-

You hit the switch and it "UNCOGS"---get level, hit the switch and it "RECOGS"

simple-expensive !!

Don't play withit--use IF YOU NEED TO !

JIMBO
Actually it has to be in 4L unless you monkey with a programmer.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:34 AM   #5
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Dag, I've had this JKUR for three years-

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Originally Posted by daggo66 View Post
Actually it has to be in 4L unless you monkey with a programmer.
The e-disco works in 4hi/4lo--

Do you have to be in 4lo for yours to work ??????

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Old 09-06-2011, 09:49 AM   #6
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Nevermind, I was thinking of the lockers.
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Old 09-06-2011, 09:55 AM   #7
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Secretly, I knew that !!


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Nevermind, I was thinking of the lockers.
Keepyerpowderdry

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Old 09-06-2011, 09:59 AM   #8
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Hey all-- Daggo does admit his mistakes
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:06 AM   #9
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Hey all-- Daggo does admit his mistakes
Always!
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:56 AM   #10
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Official "Daggo was WRONG" tally to date:

WRONG: 1 ( plus a couple mulligans)
RIGHT: several zillion

Confidence level : remains nearly sterling
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:03 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperJake
Official "Daggo was WRONG" tally to date:

WRONG: 1 ( plus a couple mulligans)
RIGHT: several zillion

Confidence level : remains nearly sterling
Had to google mulligan

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Old 09-06-2011, 11:11 AM   #12
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Can someone help me understand this? In order to disconnect you must be in 4L and under 18 mph? OK so once its disconnected can you go faster or into 4H, or 2H for that matter? How would the system prevent this once its disconnected? I never owned anything with this system and would like to learn. Thanks!
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Had to google mulligan

I have to take too many of them not to know what they are. Love to play golf but wouldn't say I am good at it lol.
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Take a look at this picture.

The "Electric Sway Bar Disconnect" is in yellow, and the "Sway Bar" itself is orange. Note the way the orange sway bar begins on one side of the Jeep, passes through the yellow disconnect, and continues onto the other side of the Jeep.

My understanding--in line with what Jimbo said--is that when you push the button inside your cabin, the yellow disconnect actually severs the sway bar in half. This allows the driver's side of the orange sway bar to move independent of the passenger side, thereby allow for more articulation. However, you won't visibly see any difference from the outside.

If us non-Rubicon owners want a similar result, we need to manually disconnect the red "Sway Bar Links." This will disconnect the sway bar itself from the front axle, and, again, allow for more articulation.
Great pic...
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:41 PM   #15
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You should be below 18mph, in 4hi/4lo to activate e-disco--push button once, flashing icon when trying and solid when disconnected--

To reconnect you should be BELOW 18 mph-in 4hi/4lo and then push button, once more (one time)--


Quote:
Originally Posted by demarpaint View Post
Can someone help me understand this? In order to disconnect you must be in 4L and under 18 mph? OK so once its disconnected can you go faster or into 4H, or 2H for that matter? How would the system prevent this once its disconnected? I never owned anything with this system and would like to learn. Thanks!
You have tobe on LEVEL ground and for safety--stay below 18mph and in 4hi/4/lo !light will flash while trying and then "go out" when connected !

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Old 09-06-2011, 03:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
You should be below 18mph, in 4hi/4lo to activate e-disco--push button once, flashing icon when trying and solid when disconnected--

To reconnect you should be BELOW 18 mph-in 4hi/4lo and then push button, once more (one time)--




You have tobe on LEVEL ground and for safety--stay below 18mph and in 4hi/4/lo !light will flash while trying and then "go out" when connected !

JIMBO
So basically once disconnected you're on your own!
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Old 09-06-2011, 03:15 PM   #17
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Once disconnected, is like driving your jeep without a front sway bar--AT ALL-


Quote:
Originally Posted by demarpaint View Post
So basically once disconnected you're on your own!
Thats for more extreme articulation and trying to get all 4 tires on the ground when on very uneven surface-ie: ruts/rocks/burms/volkswagons-etc-

If you drive over 18mph--the ECU trys to reconnect the e-disco system--not a good idea !!

18 mph is a magic No. with Chrysler there lockers are also governed to 18 mph !

For safety reasons, it's not a good idea to drive on hiwys with any swaybars disconnected !!

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Old 09-06-2011, 03:49 PM   #18
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Ok so they are governed at 18 mph. I got it now thanks!
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Old 09-07-2011, 12:46 PM   #19
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Great information! Thanks!
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:09 PM   #20
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Yep, thanks. I was wondering as well. :o)

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Old 01-18-2012, 04:45 PM   #21
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Hey everyone. I purchased the 3.5" Rough Country Series II Lift a while ago and with that i also purchased a new rear driveshaft. I have been reading and see that i needed the front one more than the back. But the guy who installed my lift said i would only need the rear. ANYWAYS, i called rough country and they said i would only need a new front one if i disconnected the sway bars. so basically i wont need a new front driveshaft unless im going over 18 mph in 4wd or doing extreme flexing?

Thanks in advance.. Oh and i dont know a whole lot about all this but i do know some.
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:52 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReedFlip View Post
Hey everyone. I purchased the 3.5" Rough Country Series II Lift a while ago and with that i also purchased a new rear driveshaft. I have been reading and see that i needed the front one more than the back. But the guy who installed my lift said i would only need the rear. ANYWAYS, i called rough country and they said i would only need a new front one if i disconnected the sway bars. so basically i wont need a new front driveshaft unless im going over 18 mph in 4wd or doing extreme flexing?

Thanks in advance.. Oh and i dont know a whole lot about all this but i do know some.
Because of the height of your lift, the front ds on your JK is at a pretty severe angle. Sooner or later (disco'd swaybars or not), you're gonna need a new front ds.
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:56 PM   #23
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Because of the height of your lift, the front ds on your JK is at a pretty severe angle. Sooner or later (disco'd swaybars or not), you're gonna need a new front ds.
ok, i appreciate the help.
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:10 PM   #24
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Old 01-19-2012, 12:26 PM   #25
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i love this place... been a while.

awesome picture and good thread! i can happily report i just procured a BDS 4" SA lift for my JK. i spoke with my local shop guru and he's also pointed me towards a new front driveshaft.

should have the lift sometime mid-week... then end of the month throwin' it on. pictures to follow.

man i can't wait.
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:59 PM   #26
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Nadurra,
Thank you for the great picture, it answered some other questions for ma also.
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:20 PM   #27
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Once you get tired of feeling unstable, you can ditch the stock sway bar and e-stuff completely and replace it with a Currie AntiRock, which will remain connected at all times. Link suspensions rely on the influence of sway bars on both ends for proper behavior. Being totally disconnected puts your rig in an unbalanced situation.
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:25 PM   #28
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Nadurra,
Thank you for the great picture, it answered some other questions for ma also.

This!

That pic is awesome, and helped a lot, thank you.
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:34 PM   #29
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:51 AM   #30
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I hope some one still stumbles on this thread

JKU rubicon sway bar light flashes nothing happens... no idea is the sway bar connected or not. how to get this "unstuck" ??

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