So I've got a 2012 jeep jk 2 door lifted 2.5 inches on 35s and I'm sadly on 3.21 gears and I feel like I'm straining it beyond belief with all of the weight I have on it. I'm going wheeling here soon for a weekend and wondering exactly how easy it is to break a driveshaft if im not crawling or doing anything insane?
yea that's what I keep telling myself but I'm just scared shitless of that happening to me soon on a trail, I drive it like a baby on the roads but I just hope it stays intact till I replace it
He is sending more torque through his drive shaft to reach a given torque at the wheels.
Say he wants to see 100ft-lbs at the axle shaft:
3.21s need 31.15 ft-lbs through the drive shaft
4.10s need 24.39ft-lbs through the drive shaft
4.56s need 21.92 ft-lbs through the drive shaft.
This is one of the advantages to portals. The less stress transffered through the drive line, the better. Portal gears allow you to make a significant reduction right at the wheel, instead of need deep gears in the diff( blows up axles shafts and lockers) or a doubler ( can blow up damn near everything).
So what happens if you break it? Can't you just unbolt it and drive home in 4h? Which is now effectively front wheel drive? Unless you think you're going to break both. You are perhaps being overly cautious. Eventually something is going to break. That's when you upgrade.
Everyone who has broken a shaft, the answer is 'easy'. Lol. You're ok. Like stated above the high gearing you have makes it tougher to break. Often shafts break when you lose traction and one the accelerator then abruptly get traction from a rock or stump or something. Snap.
Guys thanks so much, I'm eventually gonna upgrade to a 1310 but as of now I just need it to last me for a couple more months. That's is my next upgrade just gotta save up! And whoever said I am overcautious you are more than right I still am new to wheeling and haven't gained full trust in making it home from trails yet. I guess that trust will come as the years go on
Just remember when you're off-road if you're spinning wheels in a slippery spot and they suddenly get extreme traction you can break a u-joint, twist splines or snap an axle. The drive shaft itself is plenty tough unless, as mentioned, you bang it on something and bend it. Twice a friend of mine has snapped one of her front axle shafts in a 2013 Rubi spinning wheels like a crazy woman when the wheels caught traction then SNAP-BANG. Waiting on the TC to explode next as she went right back to doing this both times. No it was not covered by warranty either time. Happy wheeling.
with open differentials and low traction tires--it is harder to break the drive shaft then if you are locked with high traction tires. Higher gears-(lower numbers) tend to create more wheel spin which can make it easier to break something in situation when you are spinning and all of a sudden get traction.
Drive shafts tend to fail in two ways--either the u-joint fails or they tend to twist up--twisting is usually due to an impact with a rock or something. You can remove the drive shaft that breaks and drive with the other one --2wd if it is the front and 4wd if it is the rear.
with open differentials and low traction tires--it is harder to break the drive shaft then if you are locked with high traction tires. Higher gears-(lower numbers) tend to create more wheel spin which can make it easier to break something in situation when you are spinning and all of a sudden get traction. Drive shafts tend to fail in two ways--either the u-joint fails or they tend to twist up--twisting is usually due to an impact with a rock or something. You can remove the drive shaft that breaks and drive with the other one --2wd if it is the front and 4wd if it is the rear.
I do use a 1310 in front now (I have the stock one as a temp backup if needed) but for the rear, I use the stock (4.10s/35s) and have gone off road with no issues. I do tend to go slow and measured over obstacles instead of slamming into them or spinning wheels (almost always in 4Hi off road and 100% in 4Lo when things become slow and rough). I do have an aftermarket 1350 for the rear (from my traded 2012) that I will use when the stock one tears. In the meantime I keep an eye on that boot and it is still perfect after 12,000 miles. I am surprised since it is so close to that Evap canister.
The one thing you have to do with most aftermarket one is see how many grease posts there are on each side. You have have the nipple style and the concave flush style grease zerks on both sides. You will need to grease them all frequently (every 3,000-5,000 miles) or risk a failure. You may as well plan on a new driveshaft or scan Craigslist and pick up a rear and front takeoff as backups.
I do use a 1310 in front now (I have the stock one as a temp backup if needed) but for the rear, I use the stock (4.10s/35s) and have gone off road with no issues. I do tend to go slow and measured over obstacles instead of slamming into them or spinning wheels (almost always in 4Hi off road and 100% in 4Lo when things become slow and rough). I do have an aftermarket 1350 for the rear (from my traded 2012) that I will use when the stock one tears. In the meantime I keep an eye on that boot and it is still perfect after 12,000 miles. I am surprised since it is so close to that Evap canister. The one thing you have to do with most aftermarket one is see how many grease posts there are on each side. You have have the nipple style and the concave flush style grease zerks on both sides. You will need to grease them all frequently (every 3,000-5,000 miles) or risk a failure. You may as well plan on a new driveshaft or scan Craigslist and pick up a rear and front takeoff as backups.
Good find, kjeeper. Those rear driveshafts are harder to come by.
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