How long do you let your Jeep warm up? - Page 2 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK Jeep Wrangler Forum > JK General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 05-08-2013, 04:47 PM   #31
Jeeper
 
InSiDeR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Posts: 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler0 View Post
I wait until the RPM marker falls just under 1,000.
Same here

InSiDeR is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 04:57 PM   #32
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,705
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler0 View Post
I wait until the RPM marker falls just under 1,000.
If you drove a jeep other than a JK on some starts you'd be waiting several days until you ran out of gas

n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 05:14 PM   #33
Jeeper
 
derf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 1,297
Quote:
Originally Posted by overblown View Post
It is important to note that your temp gauge measures the coolant only. It doesn't tell you the engine oil temp and the coolant gets to it's normal level far faster than the oil does. So you can very well have hot coolant and cold oil. So, most of the time you've taken it over 3k because the gauge is near half, the oil was nowhere near that hot. That is one of the advantages of multi viscosity oil, to account for such things. What you are doing is totally fine and won't hurt a thing. It just goes to show that modern engines have come a long way.

There is zero need for any special procedures or waiting periods or tach drops etc but it makes some guys feel better so they do it. No big deal, that won't hurt anything either. Do what you feel!
I'm not sure I buy this argument completely. But I don't entirely doubt you either. I don't have any facts either way but the oil does run through the whole engine, including on the top of the head (one of the hotter parts of the engine).

Though the coolant really only does run through the water jackets around the cylinders and head until the thermostat opens, while probably half the oil does splash around in the bottom of the engine away from the cylinders.

I bet you're probably right.

Still, the overall point we agree on is that it's best to wait until the engine is really good and warmed up before you start to push it. Avoid hard acceleration or high RPMs until you've run several miles and the engine is fully up to temp.
__________________
2012 JK - 3.6/NSG370/NP241/D30/D44 - Grimm Jeeper
1986 J10 - 360/700R4/NP208/D44HD/D60FF - Truck Norris

My gear ratio calculator
derf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 05:40 PM   #34
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 443
It all depends on the immediate type of driving you're about to do. If you're going to putt along in slow traffic with few hills and you're not towing anything or have no heavy cargo and it's 70F outside, then there's no need for an extended warm up other than letting it run for a few seconds to get the oil pressure up and off you go.

However, if you're a minute from the on ramp to an expressway and you normally drive with a heavy foot while carrying heavy cargo or towing, it's better to sit a minute then drive gently for several minutes thereafter to let the heads reach operating temp before any hard driving; it doesn't take too long unless it's arctic-cold out.

The point of "warming up" an engine before hard duty use is to ensure the various metals have expanded to design operating temps to avoid (gasp) possibly cracking a head from too much cylinder pressure (not rpms) uneveny heating a "cold" head. Wear is a related issue but not as critical as cracking a head or blowing a gasket. The smaller displacement, high-compression-ratio engines are more susceptible to head cracking or gasket puking when driven hard immediately after start up. Yeah, the computer can cover for for driveability but not all possible abuse.
__________________
There are many whose education has exceeded their ability to comprehend.
BManz is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 06:04 PM   #35
Newb
 
Mongo_Wrangler_X's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Montclair, Va
Posts: 7
As soon as my Dr Pepper® and Pop tarts® are open and my phone is plugged in and Pandora® is running, I'm gone.
Mongo_Wrangler_X is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 06:06 PM   #36
Jeeper
 
Wingsnut72's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 469
Quote:
Originally Posted by WonderJeep View Post
Just curious how long everyone else waits and what the general concensus is.

I usually wait about 5 minutes on cold starts in the morning.

TIA!
As soon as I hear the RPMs fall.
Wingsnut72 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 08:18 PM   #37
Jeeper
 
overblown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 654
Quote:
Originally Posted by derf View Post
I'm not sure I buy this argument completely. But I don't entirely doubt you either. I don't have any facts either way but the oil does run through the whole engine, including on the top of the head (one of the hotter parts of the engine).

Though the coolant really only does run through the water jackets around the cylinders and head until the thermostat opens, while probably half the oil does splash around in the bottom of the engine away from the cylinders.

I bet you're probably right.

Still, the overall point we agree on is that it's best to wait until the engine is really good and warmed up before you start to push it. Avoid hard acceleration or high RPMs until you've run several miles and the engine is fully up to temp.
The numbers don't lie. I have multiple cars that have both the oil temp and the coolant temp monitor including my JK. Plus, just think of the nature of oil vs coolant. It's easy to imagine which one would heat up faster, it's the coolant every time. By a sizable margin too. So your engine temp gauge is strictly a coolant temp gauge, nothing else. So just because your coolant is warm, that doesn't mean your oil is too. Only a oil temp gauge will tell you that.

And yes, we do agree on the overall point for sure.
__________________
2001 Corvette Z06
1970 Monte Carlo
2003 Wrangler X 4.0
2012 Land Rover LR4
2006 Harley Davidson Sportster Custom
2013 10th Anniversary Rubicon
overblown is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 08:24 PM   #38
Jeeper
 
overblown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 654
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingsnut72 View Post
As soon as I hear the RPMs fall.
Cold start high idle is purely to help "light" the catalytic converters faster. An emissions thing. Has nothing to do with the engine itself, it's well being or longevity. Just an fyi.
__________________
2001 Corvette Z06
1970 Monte Carlo
2003 Wrangler X 4.0
2012 Land Rover LR4
2006 Harley Davidson Sportster Custom
2013 10th Anniversary Rubicon
overblown is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 08:31 PM   #39
Jeeper
 
live_slow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 666
Like BManz says, if you have to pull out into fast moving traffic (country highway or freeway) you don't want to do it cold in most modern cars.

Also, obviously, if you're in an exceptionally cold place, even with a modern car, it's best to find a way to go to work that doesn't involve going from a near standing start to 65 or 70 while everything is cold.

Where I live, I have to pull out onto a somewhat narrow rural highway, turning left, with oncoming traffic topping a shallow ridge at 65 (speed limit is still set at 55 from a decade ago when no subdivisions were out here).

So whatever I'm driving, I don't go stand on it cold. If it's really cold out (rare) I go out the back way, driving about a mile through the subdivision and another mile on a surface road before gunning it onto the highway :-)
__________________
IIIIII

Just another Billet Silver Metallic. It blends.
2013 | JK | 23R | 2"M | 33s on 15s |
live_slow is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 08:31 PM   #40
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
jp2611's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Fort Wayne IN
Posts: 5,954
'04 TJ purchased in '04...long enough for the oil pressure gauge to stop moving usually...but not always....165K+ and no issues with motor....( I probably just jinxed myself)
jp2611 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 08:58 PM   #41
Jeeper
 
derf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 1,297
Quote:
Originally Posted by overblown View Post
The numbers don't lie. I have multiple cars that have both the oil temp and the coolant temp monitor including my JK. Plus, just think of the nature of oil vs coolant. It's easy to imagine which one would heat up faster, it's the coolant every time. By a sizable margin too. So your engine temp gauge is strictly a coolant temp gauge, nothing else. So just because your coolant is warm, that doesn't mean your oil is too. Only a oil temp gauge will tell you that.

And yes, we do agree on the overall point for sure.
I bet the coolant is a better heat conductor as well so it will warm up faster.

I learned something new today.
__________________
2012 JK - 3.6/NSG370/NP241/D30/D44 - Grimm Jeeper
1986 J10 - 360/700R4/NP208/D44HD/D60FF - Truck Norris

My gear ratio calculator
derf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 10:21 PM   #42
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,705
Quote:
Originally Posted by live_slow View Post
Like BManz says, if you have to pull out into fast moving traffic (country highway or freeway) you don't want to do it cold in most modern cars.
I find that accelerating works just fine, no need to run up to speed at redline. With my TJ, I rarely break 3k in normal driving and that includes 4 different freeway merges.
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 10:44 PM   #43
Jeeper
 
wrangler0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NY
Posts: 827
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00g7

If you drove a jeep other than a JK on some starts you'd be waiting several days until you ran out of gas
I know!!
My previous vehicle was a Honda civic. Took forever for it to idle down!!!
__________________
2010 Black Sahara
Rugged Ridge XHD Front & Rear Bumper, Rugged Ridge Side Armor
wrangler0 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-08-2013, 11:44 PM   #44
Jeeper
 
Jared66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 519
Depends on time of year/ temp. Long enough to get at least 1/8th warm on the gage. And take it slow n easy till 1/4. Then srry speedin up. Not goin 100% till fully warmed up
Jared66 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 02:33 AM   #45
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: South Phoenix
Posts: 298
Don't plan to change my approach of waiting till 1k rpm. However for those that say its not required and it does nothing, why does the engine sound louder for the first few seconds?

To me it's the oil splashing around and lubricating everything. I would think this would make a difference if you crank and pull away vs giving it 15 sec to cycle oil. My RPMs normally drop within that window anyways.
__________________
2012 JKU Sport Silver - Max Tow, Trac-Lok LSD, Auto, Sport S package, Hardtop.

MODS: See garage, bunch of fun stuff underway.
BacaraJKU is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 02:49 AM   #46
Jeeper
 
n00g7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern VT // Western Wisconsin
Posts: 1,705
Quote:
Originally Posted by BacaraJKU View Post
Don't plan to change my approach of waiting till 1k rpm. However for those that say its not required and it does nothing, why does the engine sound louder for the first few seconds?

To me it's the oil splashing around and lubricating everything. I would think this would make a difference if you crank and pull away vs giving it 15 sec to cycle oil. My RPMs normally drop within that window anyways.
It's just the start up cycle with high idle to warm up cats...
n00g7 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 03:50 AM   #47
gsn
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 571
Ain't nobody got time fo dat
gsn is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 08:13 AM   #48
Jeeper
 
Michel347's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Laurentians, QC, Canada
Posts: 438
Quote:
Originally Posted by BacaraJKU View Post
Don't plan to change my approach of waiting till 1k rpm. However for those that say its not required and it does nothing, why does the engine sound louder for the first few seconds?

To me it's the oil splashing around and lubricating everything. I would think this would make a difference if you crank and pull away vs giving it 15 sec to cycle oil. My RPMs normally drop within that window anyways.
I have a 2012 as well, just waiting for the idle to settle down, then I go, but I've noticed the same thing, after the second stop/street corner the sound of the engine changes to a lounder sound and lower tone, from there it runs perfect, before that the engine hesitates a little. Never had an engine doing this before.
Michel347 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 08:23 AM   #49
Jeeper
 
Jared66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 519
Everyone should drive an old carbureted 350 with a manuel choke. And then you'll see how long it really takes to warm up an engine
Jared66 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 08:41 AM   #50
Jeeper
 
ahsumtoy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Northern Arizona
Posts: 541
Myth

Myth: Wait, it's still warming up. Some people insist that your car will last longer if you let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

It's true that running cold is harder on an engine than running warm. The oil is thicker, and it takes a little time - very little, really - for it to flow to all the parts of the engine that need it.

But letting the car sit while the engine is running doesn't help anything. It just wastes gas and pumps out needless fumes. You might as well get on your way.

All you need to do is drive your car gently until the engine is warmed up. No smoky burn-outs first thing in the morning. Just go easy and keep those engine RPMs down until everything's toasty, and you'll be just fine.

Five to ten minutes of easy driving is about all it takes before most cars are ready to rev.
Driving gently for a few minutes helps your brakes, too. They also need a chance to warm up. "Brakes go to from zero to 200 degrees or so in an instant with a hard stop. That kind of sudden temperature change promotes warping of brake rotors. Better to make a few slow stops at first so the brakes can heat up gradually.
ahsumtoy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 08:49 AM   #51
Jeeper
 
RoadiJeff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 2,144
Warm up? As soon as the engine is running and I have my seat belt on I start driving. Letting it idle in the garage would probably not be a good idea.
RoadiJeff is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 10:05 AM   #52
Jeeper
 
COStrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,755
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reece View Post
So what's the purpose of the computer raising the idle speed when you start up cold and then dropping it down slowly, eh?
I believe it's setting idle

As for this lighting the cat thing, I have never seen any lights or flashes from down there. I will look today though. Lol. JK
__________________
We do not take risks to escape life, but to keep life from escaping us.-Unknown
COStrider is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 10:18 AM   #53
Jeeper
 
COStrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,755
Quote:
Originally Posted by BManz View Post
It all depends on the immediate type of driving you're about to do. If you're going to putt along in slow traffic with few hills and you're not towing anything or have no heavy cargo and it's 70F outside, then there's no need for an extended warm up other than letting it run for a few seconds to get the oil pressure up and off you go.

However, if you're a minute from the on ramp to an expressway and you normally drive with a heavy foot while carrying heavy cargo or towing, it's better to sit a minute then drive gently for several minutes thereafter to let the heads reach operating temp before any hard driving; it doesn't take too long unless it's arctic-cold out.

The point of "warming up" an engine before hard duty use is to ensure the various metals have expanded to design operating temps to avoid (gasp) possibly cracking a head from too much cylinder pressure (not rpms) uneveny heating a "cold" head. Wear is a related issue but not as critical as cracking a head or blowing a gasket. The smaller displacement, high-compression-ratio engines are more susceptible to head cracking or gasket puking when driven hard immediately after start up. Yeah, the computer can cover for for driveability but not all possible abuse.
Agree on towing viewpoint. But I tow light and just go easy.

100,000 mile power train warranty. HELLO?!
__________________
We do not take risks to escape life, but to keep life from escaping us.-Unknown
COStrider is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 10:27 AM   #54
Jeeper
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 68
I push my Jeep out of the garage to the driveway, which is on a slight incline. I start it as it starts to slowly roll, and then just drive off. Now my '44 Ford GPW gets warmed up, but I try to get it out of the garage first. That sucker burns some oil.
ktulu is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 10:29 AM   #55
Jeeper
 
Sgt93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 582
I always auto start it so she is ready when I am ready.
__________________
Steve - 2015 Ford F350 King Ranch CC SB 4x4.
2013 Rubicon Unlimited. SOLD
_______
/l ,[____],
l---L -OlllllllO-
()_) ()_)--o-)_)
Sgt93 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 10:35 AM   #56
Jeeper
 
Strokerswild's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: MN
Posts: 1,318
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler0 View Post
I wait until the RPM marker falls just under 1,000.
This.

Anything more and you're wasting gas with a late-model EFI vehicle.
__________________
Gone but not forgotten:
'98 TJ SE - '99 TJ Sahara - '12 JK Arctic
'13 JK Sahara...too many other toys...

I Jeep, therefore I am.
Strokerswild is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 10:56 AM   #57
Jeeper
 
derf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Posts: 1,297
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadiJeff View Post
Warm up? As soon as the engine is running and I have my seat belt on I start driving. Letting it idle in the garage would probably not be a good idea.
Depends on who's in the garage...
__________________
2012 JK - 3.6/NSG370/NP241/D30/D44 - Grimm Jeeper
1986 J10 - 360/700R4/NP208/D44HD/D60FF - Truck Norris

My gear ratio calculator
derf is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 10:56 AM   #58
Jeeper
 
nekojku's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Houston, Tejas
Posts: 390
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler0 View Post
I wait until the RPM marker falls just under 1,000.
Yup I do the same thing.
nekojku is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 11:06 AM   #59
Jeeper
 
FlightMedic57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 22
It depends on how late I am leaving for work.
FlightMedic57 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-09-2013, 12:04 PM   #60
Jeeper
 
overblown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 654
Quote:
Originally Posted by BacaraJKU View Post
Don't plan to change my approach of waiting till 1k rpm. However for those that say its not required and it does nothing, why does the engine sound louder for the first few seconds?

To me it's the oil splashing around and lubricating everything. I would think this would make a difference if you crank and pull away vs giving it 15 sec to cycle oil. My RPMs normally drop within that window anyways.
The engine sounds louder because it's running at a higher rpm for the first few seconds. Oil is indeed lubricating things but that is not the purpose of it idling high. There is already a film of oil on all the parts from the last time it was run. Think about it, if the engine was in need of extra lubricating at startup, why would you want to run it HIGHER than normal, adding to the wear?

High idle has nothing to do with lubrication/oil circulation. Catalytic converters don't work unless they are hot. The longer they spend warming up, the more emissions are emitted from the exhaust. In order to reduce this, manufacturers program their vehicles to idle high at cold start up to deliver more heat at a higher rate so the converters start working faster, thereby cutting down on emissions.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Michel347 View Post
I have a 2012 as well, just waiting for the idle to settle down, then I go, but I've noticed the same thing, after the second stop/street corner the sound of the engine changes to a lounder sound and lower tone, from there it runs perfect, before that the engine hesitates a little. Never had an engine doing this before.
This doesn't sound normal. Your engine gets louder as it warms up and it hesitates when cold?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared66 View Post
Everyone should drive an old carbureted 350 with a manuel choke. And then you'll see how long it really takes to warm up an engine
So true!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by COStrider View Post
I believe it's setting idle

As for this lighting the cat thing, I have never seen any lights or flashes from down there. I will look today though. Lol. JK
It's not setting idle, it already knows what idle will be based on what it's sensors tell it when you turn the key. If you see lights and flashes down there, do not be alarmed that just means you have a party Jeep

__________________
2001 Corvette Z06
1970 Monte Carlo
2003 Wrangler X 4.0
2012 Land Rover LR4
2006 Harley Davidson Sportster Custom
2013 10th Anniversary Rubicon
overblown is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:36 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC