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How To Install Engine Block Heater on 3.6L

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67K views 53 replies 32 participants last post by  GreenRubi2015  
#1 · (Edited)
Vehicle

2012 Sport S Unlimited


Tools & Supplies

1/2" drive breaker bar
3/8” or 1/2" drive ratchet
3/8” or 1/2" drive extensions
10mm, 13mm, 16mm, and 5/16” sockets
10mm combination wrench
Diagonal pliers
Torque wrench
Mopar Engine Block Heater, Part Number 4609325AB
Mopar Heater Power Cord, Part Number 68142875AA
M6x1.0x25mm bolt
M6 flat washer


Notes

A. The block heater is a dry type and sets in a pocket or well on the driver’s side of the block behind the AC compressor.
B. The power cord is similar to a standard UL listed AC voltage cord with one end designed to plug into the heater and the other end featuring a male plug.
C. Optional: I placed 3/8” plastic loom over the power cord to provide more protection.


Steps

1) Remove the air intake hose from the air cleaner and throttle body. Remove the two bolts that fasten it to the top of the radiator and loosen the clamp on each end. Make sure to unplug the inlet air temperature sensor harness.



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2) Remove the four bolts from the alternator support bracket and remove the bracket. Once the bracket is out of the way, you will be able to see the serpentine belt and idler pulleys.
NOTE: The alternator is still mounted and will not fall.






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3. Insert a ½” drive breaker bar in the square hole on the belt tensioner and push/pull the tensioner clockwise or down. While holding the breaker bar with one hand, remove the serpentine belt from the idler pulleys and alternator pulley. Then slowly release the belt tensioner. Then remove the belt from the AC compressor pulley.
NOTE: It may be helpful to draw a quick sketch of the belt routing to aid in re-installing the belt.



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4. Remove the bolt from the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft where it attaches to the stub shaft on the firewall. Pull the shaft toward the front of the Jeep; it will compress. Then carefully lay the shaft down. This will allow easier access to the upper compressor bolts.



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5. From underneath the Jeep, loosen and remove the two lower compressor bolts.

6. Carefully remove the engine/ECM harness from the studs on the compressor. Loosen and remove the two upper bolts. Support the compressor with your hand before completely removing the bolts. The compressor will not fall and you may move it slightly toward the driver’s side.

7. Place the heater into the well on the side of the block and install the M6 bolt and washer. Just snug the bolt, do not overtighten!

8. Plug the power cord into the heater and let the rest of the cord hang down for now.



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9. While supporting the compressor, start the upper bolts by hand. Make sure they are not cross threaded.
Then tighten the bolts until they are almost touching the compressor.

10. Install the lower bolts by hand ensuring they are not cross threaded, and then tighten to 21 ft lbs.

11. Tighten the upper compressor bolts to 21 ft lbs.

12. Route the power cord underneath the compressor and then up to the engine/ECM harness. Lay the rest of the cord between the ECM and ABS brake module.
NOTE: The power cord comes with pre-installed zip ties so you may fasten it to the ECM harness. I chose not to use them.



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13. Place the intermediate steering shaft back onto the stub shaft in the firewall and re-install the bolt. Tighten to 35 ft lbs.

14. Use the breaker bar to push/pull the tensioner clockwise or down, then route the belt over the compressor pulley, alternator pulley, and idler pulleys. Slowly release the tensioner and remove the breaker bar.
NOTE: Examine the entire belt to ensure it is lying correctly on all pulleys.

15. Hold the alternator support bracket in place and start the bolts by hand in reverse order of how you removed them. Make sure they are not cross threaded.

16. Tighten the large center bolt to 28 ft lbs. Then tighten the three smaller bolts to 21 ft lbs.

17. Re-install the air intake hose. Don’t forget to connect the temp sensor harness back onto the sensor.

18. Route the rest of the power cord to the front of the Jeep. You may choose to run it out one of the grille slots. Since my grille has the mesh, I routed the cord between the washer fluid reservoir and out to the left front body mount.







Image

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/pp282/ssgjurista/DSC01179.jpg
 
#19 ·
It's an option. I checked the box on mine when I ordered it, but all the Jeeps at the two local dealerships come with them.

I've used the stick-ons too and haven't seen a real functional difference between the two. As mentioned above you do need to make sure the oil pan is clean.

Mike
 
A
#20 ·
FAIL. taken 3 weeks to gather the parts, i didnt realize the heater, and the cord, would be separate parts, ugh. Then I found out the tensioner, at least on a '14, has this funky strut attached to the bottom, requiring 3-4' of breaker bar and a second person to do the belt. wont be changing any serp belts in the field i guess.

so i called the stealership. they claim install time of 4 hrs (~ $500).
UFB! for a block heater!

Ill give 1 more try, but only have a 30" breaker bar .....may have to bail and go with the Wolverine stick-on
 
J
#21 ·
Excellent right up, I needed to put a block heater in my wife's 14 JK Sport,(we are moving back to Alaska) so i figured i would call the Stealership and see what they would charge, well it took them 2 days to find out how to do it, he said they had to remove the AC compressor then re service it, WTF!! oh and $450 + the part, NOPE!!! Ive done numerous block heaters on older vehicles but they said it was a cartridge type not freeze plug. went to NAPA, $36, with instructions. But your right up will make this go much smoother.
Thanks again.
 
#28 ·
AlaskaErik said:
Although I retired to Arizona last year, I still ordered my JKUR with a block heater and remote start, just in case I decide to move back to my home state of Alaska. And the remote start comes in handy down here for cooling my interior. At worst, I spent $95 on a block heater that I might never use.
Click to expand...

Funny thing is, I did move back to Alaska after this post was written. I do have a question about this particular install. I'm from Alaska and I've never heard of a dry heater. Is this what FCA is installing on their vehicles these days? I'm much more used to the freeze plug heaters, which make more sense to me. Think of hypothermia. You'll freeze much faster in water as opposed to cold air. I would think the same principle would apply to heaters. An immersion heater would be much more effective than a dry one.
 
N
#29 ·
I live in MN and wanted the stock lock heater, my rig didn't come with it, so I looked into the Mopar oem and install guide. It requires draining coolant and then install and refill so I think it's the style you're wanting?

My old car I installed an oil pan stick on heater and also had good luck with it on a few hours before starting. As a cheap and easy method.
 
#34 ·
I wouldn't bother with a block heater install. Too much hassle and there are easier alternatives.



In-line rad hose heater.... fits in the lower rad hose
Magnetic heater... adheres to the side of any iron or steel
Circulation heater.... fits in the heater core hose and circulates the heated coolant through the motor
Adhesive electric blanket... adheres to the bottom of the oi pan


They also sell electric battery blankets. I have one and start plugging it in when the temp starts hitting -40.



They all take 30 minutes or less to install, and all work pretty well and none of them require you to take 1/2 the engine bay apart.
 
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