If I re-gear from 3.21s, I'm thinking 3.73, but possibly 4.10. Advice? - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:41 AM   #1
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If I re-gear from 3.21s, I'm thinking 3.73, but possibly 4.10. Advice?

Here's my situation. I bought my 2012 Unlimited (automatic transmission) with 3.21 gears because at the time we were trading two vehicles in for one, so it was going to be our only vehicle and, even though we were buying a Jeep, I wanted the best possible MPGs we could get. Wasn't doing any towing and still aren't. Only get off-road a few times a year and I'm not rock crawling.

A few months ago, I moved from Cleveland, Ohio to Charlotte, NC. Driving through the mountains going back and forth for visits (2-3 times a year I'm estimating), along with the somewhat hilly areas I drive around here, I've noticed I spend a lot of time either nearly flooring it or manually downshifting the auto into 3rd or 4th to keep from being so sluggish going up the hills. I kind of feel like whatever MPGs the 3.21s were saving me are going out the window when I have to gun it or down shift to accelerate or maintain my speeds in the hills. Is that reasonable to believe?

Due to the above, I'm considering having my Jeep re-geared with 3.73s. MAYBE I'd consider 4.10s if the toll on highway driving and MPGs isn't much different. Nothing over 4.10s would even be considered as practical until this thing is paid off in several years and becomes a weekend toy. Like I said above, I'm not doing any towing, I'm currently running 285/70/17 Duratracs and no lift (but want a 2-2.5" lift soon). Possibly, I will one day graduate up to 35's, but it won't be any time in the near future and it's not even certain it will ever happen. I do a good amount of highway driving, but more city or 50-55 MPH roads around here. I'm basically looking for a re-gearing that just gives me better everyday drivability.

Does anyone have any advice on which route I should go and an estimated average of what I should expect to pay to have it done? I have two cousins and an uncle who have extensive mechanical knowledge, but I am not aware of any of them ever doing a re-gear, so I'm not expecting to be able to skip on paying for labor. I'm hoping I included enough of my vehicle and usage information.

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Old 10-10-2013, 11:45 AM   #2
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Regearing is expensive, probably over $1k parts and labor. Shifting isn't hurting anything, how much does it bother you? There may be a programmer that will make your trans downshift automatically with less throttle, but I just got my first automatic myself so I don't know much about that.

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Old 10-10-2013, 11:46 AM   #3
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On the street I loved my 3.73's. I climbed all the hills around us with no problem and still got 18 to 19.5 mpg. I put on 35's and it was still OK not as great though. Now I have 4.56's. I lost some milage and got back all my acceleration and hill climbing but at a much higher rpm. My experience with the 3.73's were great.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:47 AM   #4
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I know the shifting isn't hurting anything, but I feel (possibly incorrectly) that all the shifting to get higher in the power band is hurting my gas mileage in addition to the annoyance factor. And of course the added performance would be nice. I also realize that having the gears changed will take a long time to pay for themselves, but this is the first vehicle I plan on actually keeping until it falls apart.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:50 AM   #5
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Re-gear might run you $1500 or so. So basically, from a pure fuel economy standpoint, it won't be worth it to make a small jump....I don't think you are going to burn an extra $1500 in fuel on your drives back home, and 3.73's or 4.10's won't make up the difference.

If you are going to jump, jump to the 4.56's, especially if you plan on getting larger wheels down the line. I guess I'd keep 3.21's for now, then jump to 4.56's down the line.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:54 AM   #6
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I know the gears won't be worth it if fuel economy was the only concern, but I'm also interested in better overall drivability. Wouldn't the gears make my normal driving more enjoyable and less annoying with the downshifts/sluggishness?
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:57 AM   #7
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I know the gears won't be worth it if fuel economy was the only concern, but I'm also interested in better overall drivability. Wouldn't the gears make my normal driving more enjoyable and less annoying with the downshifts/sluggishness?
Absolutely. But you don't want to regear more than once! It may even be worth doing a trade-in instead of a regear.
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:03 PM   #8
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Im about to regear mine as well to 4.56.

You need a procal or flashcal to fix your speedometer for bigger tires as well. So id get one....

Regearing involves a trip to a transmission shop, which is less full of bs usually than a dealer.

Let them order all the parts. You had better get a warranty.....
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:16 PM   #9
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It might be cheaper to go dig through the salvage yards and grab some stock axles out of a wrecked JK. They're pretty much unchanged from 07-preset. For a couple hundred bucks you can buy a pair that has 3.73's already in them.

The swap is easy. You don't even have to pull the brake hoses. Just pull the calipers off and zip tie them up. I'm not sure how hard it is to unplug the wires for the ABS sensors but that's not rocket science. Unbolt the stock axles (remember the parking brake cables and the vent hoses) and bolt the junkyard axles directly in. Throw a new set of brake pads in the calipers and bolt them to the "new" axles, reconnect everything and you're done. It would take a day in the garage/driveway to do that with hand tools, a jack and a couple of jack stands.

Oh, but you will need to tell the computer about the different gear ratio. A ProCal or a trip to the dealer would take care of that.


Edit: And once you have the junkyard axles installed you can sell your original axles and make up at least half the cost of the junkyard axles. Or you can hang on to them and build them up outside of the Jeep so that when you lift and put bigger tires in you'll be able to do gears and lockers along with welding on a truss and whatever else you want to do and just swap the axles right in.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:14 AM   #10
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Tribefan,

To answer your question about who does re-gearing. If you are going to go through the time and expense of having it done, I would suggest you go with an brand new re-gearing kit. This way you will know the history of the "new" gears.

Rubi Trux in Boone, NC does re-gearing but its not cheap..I was quoted just under
$2000.00 which I thought was on the high side since the gear kits for front and rear are about $700.00 total. But they do a lot of re-gearing and are Jeep specialist. Something to consider if you decide to go that route. They will need your Jeep for at two days.

Another quote was from 4wheel parts on Charlotte, they quoted $1600.00 which is more in line with national average. For what its worth..hope this answers your OP.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:36 AM   #11
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To your original question. If you decide to drop the coin and the drive ability is what you want especially in the hills with 33" I would recommend 4.10. I have the stock 32" tires on 3.73 and so glad I refused to look at a JKU with 3.21. If you run 33"-34" 4.10's work well. Some even run 35" but years down the road you may be wanting 4.56 if you ever go to 35" tires. You would love the 4.10 but have to decide how long you plan to run that size tire and if the price is worth it for that amount of time.
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:15 AM   #12
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To your original question. If you decide to drop the coin and the drive ability is what you want especially in the hills with 33" I would recommend 4.10. I have the stock 32" tires on 3.73 and so glad I refused to look at a JKU with 3.21. If you run 33"-34" 4.10's work well. Some even run 35" but years down the road you may be wanting 4.56 if you ever go to 35" tires. You would love the 4.10 but have to decide how long you plan to run that size tire and if the price is worth it for that amount of time.
4.56 is the 35 gear ratio of choice for autos I believe. 4.88 is the correct gearing for manuals with 35s IIRC.
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:10 AM   #13
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Manuals get higher gears, lower numbers.

My dillemma is, shouldnt i get a set of arb air lockers put in if im getting new gears?
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:30 AM   #14
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A Shipmate of mine did a gear swap from 3.21 to 3.73 and was kicking himself a month later for not going to 4.10. You might even consider 4.56. It was a costly mistake for him because 2 months after that he went to 4.10. I'm new here, there's a wealth of information on this board and some very knowledgeable members. Do you homework, and don't make the mistake my Shipmate did!
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:45 AM   #15
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As you can see there are almost as many opinions as there are people on here...and bottom line it seems most are saying going from 3.21s to 3.73s isn't enough...and I will join the choir......but someone also mentioned that is shifting really that big of a deal? and yes you are gonna have to use those 3.73s a long time for it to be cost effective.

Bottom line (and I am only condensing what most are saying) Go big or go home.

IF YOU REGEAR GO AT LEAST 4.10s OR IT IS GONNA BE A WASTE OF TIME AND MONEY....not trying to be an ass trying to help a fellow Jeeper to not do what everyone of us has done at least once...take the "cheap way" out and end up paying for it twice.

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Old 11-09-2013, 07:10 AM   #16
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I'm facing a similar dilemma. 3.21 in an auto and future 35's will likely require a regear. Got quotes for 4.56's and planned on adding e-lockers to both axles at the same time. Total estimate was just north of 4k for everything. The shop is suggesting 4.88's due to cheaper cost but I fear that it would overkill in a daily driver that doesn't live off road.
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:36 AM   #17
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I put 19000 miles on my 2013 JKU with auto 3.21 and 33's and now have a 2014 JKUR with auto 4.10 and the same 33's and while the 4.10's and 33's are nicer I would have been sick if I would have paid $2K to go from 3.21 to 3.73's. 4.10's and 33's are great. I think for off-road stuff I think better money would be spent on a rubicon transfer case as the 4 to 1 4 lo is so much nicer in the steep stuff.
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Old 11-09-2013, 07:43 AM   #18
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4.10s

With 3.21s you will need a new front carrier as well. 4WP just quoted me $2000 just the other day!
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:55 AM   #19
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Changing Gears

Going from 3.21 to 3.73 isn't that much, especially for the cost of changing out the gears. Finding 4.10's is hard and if you find them, they cost way too much. If you must have 4.10's, get them from a wrecked Rubi. The next step up would be 4.56's. They are cheaper than new 4.10's. So if I were going to make the change, I'd opt for the 4.56's IMHO.
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:04 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tribefan View Post
Here's my situation. I bought my 2012 Unlimited (automatic transmission) with 3.21 gears because at the time we were trading two vehicles in for one, so it was going to be our only vehicle and, even though we were buying a Jeep, I wanted the best possible MPGs we could get. Wasn't doing any towing and still aren't. Only get off-road a few times a year and I'm not rock crawling.

A few months ago, I moved from Cleveland, Ohio to Charlotte, NC. Driving through the mountains going back and forth for visits (2-3 times a year I'm estimating), along with the somewhat hilly areas I drive around here, I've noticed I spend a lot of time either nearly flooring it or manually downshifting the auto into 3rd or 4th to keep from being so sluggish going up the hills. I kind of feel like whatever MPGs the 3.21s were saving me are going out the window when I have to gun it or down shift to accelerate or maintain my speeds in the hills. Is that reasonable to believe?

Due to the above, I'm considering having my Jeep re-geared with 3.73s. MAYBE I'd consider 4.10s if the toll on highway driving and MPGs isn't much different. Nothing over 4.10s would even be considered as practical until this thing is paid off in several years and becomes a weekend toy. Like I said above, I'm not doing any towing, I'm currently running 285/70/17 Duratracs and no lift (but want a 2-2.5" lift soon). Possibly, I will one day graduate up to 35's, but it won't be any time in the near future and it's not even certain it will ever happen. I do a good amount of highway driving, but more city or 50-55 MPH roads around here. I'm basically looking for a re-gearing that just gives me better everyday drivability.

Does anyone have any advice on which route I should go and an estimated average of what I should expect to pay to have it done? I have two cousins and an uncle who have extensive mechanical knowledge, but I am not aware of any of them ever doing a re-gear, so I'm not expecting to be able to skip on paying for labor. I'm hoping I included enough of my vehicle and usage information.
With 285s, I do a minimum of 4.10s but I'd prefer 4.56s. Definitely nothing with a 3 in front of it.
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:28 PM   #21
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I'm facing a similar dilemma. 3.21 in an auto and future 35's will likely require a regear. Got quotes for 4.56's and planned on adding e-lockers to both axles at the same time. Total estimate was just north of 4k for everything. The shop is suggesting 4.88's due to cheaper cost but I fear that it would overkill in a daily driver that doesn't live off road.
Have you looked at the gear charts??? Im going 4.88 for 33s but i have a 3.8....

Im seriously considering detroit lockers now.....
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:20 PM   #22
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I'm sure I'll be blacklisted for this one. Good day everyone.

Alright, as of now I currently run AMP 35x12.50R20 on a 2013 JKU Auto Transmission with 3.21 gearing with lift.

My two cents: Do I believe I should re-gear to something better....unsure really.

Now here is my justification for not doing it at the moment. First its expensive....My Jeep is NOT a DD and it is not a off-roader per say. I drive for 12hrs a day in 2012 Ford Crown Vic....the last thing I want to do is drive when I'm off. My jeep gets me around town and onto my hunting land (50 miles one way a few months out of the year). I use it to simply get from A to B then do something else at B "hunt, camp, etc" and then back to A.

I fully understand that my tires are not the coolest, baddest thing...(kinda do like the mayhem wheels though). I'm not hard on my jeep at all, I get passed all the time because I like to enjoy the ride. I hate the interstate, simply because I spend alot of time on it at work (figure out my occupation, yet?). I fill my tank up from 3/4 full to all the way full every Tuesday and average maybe 65 miles a week. (mostly trips to town for things, this is probably inaccurate but I will be fixing this with a AEV procal module soon enough.

Also I'm not sure if I want to keep that big tire on, the Jeep came with the shoes on it and I just haven't thought alot about changing it yet. Today, I measured the actual height "size" (on the Jeep) and its roughly 33.5. (I'm not sure if that means a great deal or not when you determine if a re-gear is needed).

I fully understand I'm a newb lol but thats cool whatever.....everyone of you was too as some point. I'm not trying to piss anyone off or say you don't know what your talking about....I just know how I like to drive my jeep.

For all of you wondering, yes she has been in some real muck.....unless you boys or gals know what driving in red wet clay vs mudd is like....come down to Ga, we'll take your jeep.
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:01 PM   #23
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Yes
I looked at the gear charts and withethe auto and 3.6 the 4.88's would be pushing at the ceiling of the sweet spot for 35's.

I did consider a Detroit but keep coming back to the fully selectable as it requires no prelim "slip" to kick in.
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Old 11-09-2013, 02:19 PM   #24
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I'm sure I'll be blacklisted for this one. Good day everyone.

Alright, as of now I currently run AMP 35x12.50R20 on a 2013 JKU Auto Transmission with 3.21 gearing with lift.

My two cents: Do I believe I should re-gear to something better....unsure really.

Now here is my justification for not doing it at the moment. First its expensive....My Jeep is NOT a DD and it is not a off-roader per say. I drive for 12hrs a day in 2012 Ford Crown Vic....the last thing I want to do is drive when I'm off. My jeep gets me around town and onto my hunting land (50 miles one way a few months out of the year). I use it to simply get from A to B then do something else at B "hunt, camp, etc" and then back to A.

I fully understand that my tires are not the coolest, baddest thing...(kinda do like the mayhem wheels though). I'm not hard on my jeep at all, I get passed all the time because I like to enjoy the ride. I hate the interstate, simply because I spend alot of time on it at work (figure out my occupation, yet?). I fill my tank up from 3/4 full to all the way full every Tuesday and average maybe 65 miles a week. (mostly trips to town for things, this is probably inaccurate but I will be fixing this with a AEV procal module soon enough.

Also I'm not sure if I want to keep that big tire on, the Jeep came with the shoes on it and I just haven't thought alot about changing it yet. Today, I measured the actual height "size" (on the Jeep) and its roughly 33.5. (I'm not sure if that means a great deal or not when you determine if a re-gear is needed).

I fully understand I'm a newb lol but thats cool whatever.....everyone of you was too as some point. I'm not trying to piss anyone off or say you don't know what your talking about....I just know how I like to drive my jeep.

For all of you wondering, yes she has been in some real muck.....unless you boys or gals know what driving in red wet clay vs mudd is like....come down to Ga, we'll take your jeep.
There's no wrong with 3.21's an bigger tires. It really depends on the terrain you live on. I have 3.21's in my 13 sport with 2.5" lift an 35x12.50's on it an use it as a daily driver an I have no problems with the 3.21's(get 18mpg at that). Yes they downshift at steeper inclines but I can live with it until the jeep is payed off so I can regear then
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:05 PM   #25
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Yes
I looked at the gear charts and withethe auto and 3.6 the 4.88's would be pushing at the ceiling of the sweet spot for 35's.

I did consider a Detroit but keep coming back to the fully selectable as it requires no prelim "slip" to kick in.
detroits dont require slip to kick in, they lock by default....fully selectables all seem to have issues with whatever makes them select. I keep ending back up at detroits.

Oh, and then there's eaton e-lockers. Which cost $2000 a piece. Uhm, no thanks. I'll buy a second jeep instead.

Don't look at the color coded ceilings. That's someones opinion. Look at the number in each block, that's your RPM at 70 MPH. Compare that to what your RPM at 70 mph was/is stock....and how do you feel about the gearing stock? Also, remember stock is geared to be good to 100 MPH. And you probably want a little bit higher RPM than stock since you have more weight on the tires. Those tires get heavy QUICK.... especially the fancy MTs.

Honestly i think it could have used a lower gear stock anyway.

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There's no wrong with 3.21's an bigger tires. It really depends on the terrain you live on. I have 3.21's in my 13 sport with 2.5" lift an 35x12.50's on it an use it as a daily driver an I have no problems with the 3.21's(get 18mpg at that). Yes they downshift at steeper inclines but I can live with it until the jeep is payed off so I can regear then
That's what everyone told me about my 3.8 with 33s and 3.73s and they were wrong as hell. Slow as crap. No low end power.
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Old 11-09-2013, 03:19 PM   #26
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detroits dont require slip to kick in, they lock by default....fully selectables all seem to have issues with whatever makes them select. I keep ending back up at detroits.

Oh, and then there's eaton e-lockers. Which cost $2000 a piece. Uhm, no thanks. I'll buy a second jeep instead.

Don't look at the color coded ceilings. That's someones opinion. Look at the number in each block, that's your RPM at 70 MPH. Compare that to what your RPM at 70 mph was/is stock....and how do you feel about the gearing stock? Also, remember stock is geared to be good to 100 MPH. And you probably want a little bit higher RPM than stock since you have more weight on the tires. Those tires get heavy QUICK.... especially the fancy MTs.

Honestly i think it could have used a lower gear stock anyway.

That's what everyone told me about my 3.8 with 33s and 3.73s and they were wrong as hell. Slow as crap. No low end power.
The 3.8 is completly different then the 3.6 I would agree the 3.8 with 3.21's is terrible but atleast in my opinion an for me 3.21's in the 3.6 is fine an I could live with them probably for the rest of the time I have the jeep, but I much rather have a lower gear for offroading so ill be goin 4.56's eventually
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Old 11-09-2013, 04:56 PM   #27
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The 3.8 is completly different then the 3.6 I would agree the 3.8 with 3.21's is terrible but atleast in my opinion an for me 3.21's in the 3.6 is fine an I could live with them probably for the rest of the time I have the jeep, but I much rather have a lower gear for offroading so ill be goin 4.56's eventually
Of course I know the 3.8 is completely different, and I've never driven one. Probably never will, I'll never let anyone else drive my jeep anyway...

But everyone said 3.73s and 33s would be fine. And they definitely weren't. Fine is a matter of opinion, which is why i also suggested the OP look at the RPM on the gear chart.
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:00 PM   #28
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:08 PM   #29
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Of course I know the 3.8 is completely different, and I've never driven one. Probably never will, I'll never let anyone else drive my jeep anyway...

But everyone said 3.73s and 33s would be fine. And they definitely weren't. Fine is a matter of opinion, which is why i also suggested the OP look at the RPM on the gear chart.
Very true an I agree it solely lies on the person who owns the vehicle as if they feel certain gearing is enough. Ill be running 3.21's for another 3-4 years though an feel 4.10's would be perfect for me but they are more expensive then 4.56 like others have said so ill be goin with 4.56. Also with the new engine I could tell no difference between 3.21 an 3.73 if I did it was minimal so as others have said as well I'd opt for 4.56's if you regear at all
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hieneken49 View Post
4.56.
Why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by OffRoadCam09 View Post
Very true an I agree it solely lies on the person who owns the vehicle as if they feel certain gearing is enough. Ill be running 3.21's for another 3-4 years though an feel 4.10's would be perfect for me but they are more expensive then 4.56 like others have said so ill be goin with 4.56. Also with the new engine I could tell no difference between 3.21 an 3.73 if I did it was minimal so as others have said as well I'd opt for 4.56's if you regear at all
I kind of figured the 3.73 on the 3.8 was the same as the 3.21 on the 3.6?

I have 3.90s on my mack truck which has a gross vehicle weight rating of 80,000 lb. Feels weird putting lower gears on my jeep.... LOL... and those gears are low as hell for an 18 wheeler, but mack doesn't know how to make an engine anymore.

I wonder what it's going to cost to get my 4.88s and detroit lockers? $2500?

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