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Old 06-23-2010, 06:13 PM   #1
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If you have Herculined your rig....

...could you please post a pic of it?

Deciding to do it soon!

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Old 06-23-2010, 06:21 PM   #2
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My old TJ:





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1991 XJ Cherokee, 4.0, AW4, NP-242, SYE
HP D30, Rusty's axle truss, Currie HD steering, diff. slider
C8.25, Powertrax locker
4.5" RE up front and Rough Country out back
33" BFG A/T's 15" soft 8's
Suspension seats, rock sliders, plated rear corner panels,
trimmed fenders, CB, exhaust, lights, remote locks and start, etc.
Past jeeps:97 TJ, 99 TJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff@Bestop View Post
In video games, the bad guy's bullets travel much slower than the good guy's bullets.
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Old 06-23-2010, 06:22 PM   #3
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Sorry just realized this was the JK section
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1991 XJ Cherokee, 4.0, AW4, NP-242, SYE
HP D30, Rusty's axle truss, Currie HD steering, diff. slider
C8.25, Powertrax locker
4.5" RE up front and Rough Country out back
33" BFG A/T's 15" soft 8's
Suspension seats, rock sliders, plated rear corner panels,
trimmed fenders, CB, exhaust, lights, remote locks and start, etc.
Past jeeps:97 TJ, 99 TJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff@Bestop View Post
In video games, the bad guy's bullets travel much slower than the good guy's bullets.
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:04 PM   #4
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Good pics. It looks just like a JK interior anyway. I took my jeep to a line-x shop and they hooked me right up. I had the roll-bars done too. If I had known I could've done it myself, I would've given it a shot, but they did a great job, better than I could have. They gave me a pretty decent discount and a warranty, too. I'll get some pics tomorrow when the light is better.
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:45 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExDementia View Post
Sorry just realized this was the JK section
Dont appologize. Looks great. Did you do it yourself?

Jonesz- Pics would be awesome if you could. What (approx) did they charge you, if you dont mind me asking?
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Old 06-24-2010, 05:38 AM   #6
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Heck, I went to a shop and they wanted a grand for just the interior, and that was if I stripped it and towed it to them.
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentol888 View Post
Dont appologize. Looks great. Did you do it yourself?

Jonesz- Pics would be awesome if you could. What (approx) did they charge you, if you dont mind me asking?
Yeah, it took like 2 days with prep work, laying down a coat, letting it cure, then again. The prep work is the only hard part. Mine was much worse than any JK's would be since it had 10 years worth of dirt, grime, and rust. Tearing down the interior should be cake for you guys, no rust to fight, just factory lock tight.

You should look up a few write ups though, just remember, THE PREP WORK IS EVERYTHING! Heres a quick recap of what I did: LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES

Stripped out the interior, hit the bolts with penetrating oil the night before(still broke 3 out of the 4 bolts holding in my rear seat), I used a wire brush and tooth brush to loosen up all the big stuff then vaccumed it out.
I sanded off all the paint, stuck dirt, and the little rust I had with heavy grit, then went over it with a finer grit and acetone/xylene.

PATIENCE IS KEY
I pretty much only used the roller they supply with the gallon to apply the coats, only used the brush for the detailed parts. That roller is a friggen godsend though, its absolutely perfect for the application, I tried to get one like it from home depot but I couldn't find one as perfect so try not to let it dry out!

Make sure you stir the can really well OFTEN. The little chunks settle to the bottom slowly and you don't really realize it until you end up having to go back over some areas that aren't as dense as others. Then if you wait to stir it, you have to go back over the other parts because then all of the sudden it will be really thick with the gritty stuff. Also if you don't stir it often enough, you run out of the liquid stuff and just have a ton of super thick unusable gritty stuff.

IMPORTANT!! When doing vertical surfaces, make sure not to go too thick on one coat there, this stuff takes a while to dry and drips very slowly so you may not see it at first, then go away while it dries only to find a bunch of thick drip marks that you can't fix when you come back! Just remember, you can always make it look even on the next coat. Luckily I learned this from helping my friend do his tailgate and bumper.

It will probably look uneven for the first coat, especially on vertical surfaces. But it always seems to work itself out on the second coat, and a third coat where ever it needs it. The roller is VERY good at making an even pattern and grit distribution. The brush can make things look very bad and uneven so I used the roller as much as possible.

The fumes can get pretty damn harsh from the xylene and also the liner, make sure to be in a well ventilated area.

The whole project was actually not that bad, just time consuming and tedious. Its not near as bad as it sounds! When I was reading the write ups I was pretty intimidated, but it's not all that bad. It was really one of the most satisfying/most rewarding mods I've ever done, you will really be proud of yourself afterwards. The results are fantastic, and it takes no skill at all, trust me, I am usually horrible with this kind of stuff.

All in all, I highly recommend doing it yourself. You'll be glad you did.
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1991 XJ Cherokee, 4.0, AW4, NP-242, SYE
HP D30, Rusty's axle truss, Currie HD steering, diff. slider
C8.25, Powertrax locker
4.5" RE up front and Rough Country out back
33" BFG A/T's 15" soft 8's
Suspension seats, rock sliders, plated rear corner panels,
trimmed fenders, CB, exhaust, lights, remote locks and start, etc.
Past jeeps:97 TJ, 99 TJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff@Bestop View Post
In video games, the bad guy's bullets travel much slower than the good guy's bullets.
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:34 AM   #8
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Also in the pics its more even than it looks, the reflections make it look like some parts are not as gritty in some areas. Its pretty easy to get it even, touch up coats are very easy to do!

Also, they make it sound like if you get it on your hands it will NEVER come off, but it wasn't that bad, just good ol' scrubbing. Just wear clothes you don't care about and gloves because you WILL get it on you. Its inevitable.
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1991 XJ Cherokee, 4.0, AW4, NP-242, SYE
HP D30, Rusty's axle truss, Currie HD steering, diff. slider
C8.25, Powertrax locker
4.5" RE up front and Rough Country out back
33" BFG A/T's 15" soft 8's
Suspension seats, rock sliders, plated rear corner panels,
trimmed fenders, CB, exhaust, lights, remote locks and start, etc.
Past jeeps:97 TJ, 99 TJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff@Bestop View Post
In video games, the bad guy's bullets travel much slower than the good guy's bullets.
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:46 AM   #9
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Here are a few pics of my Herculiner project.

The frame.




The tub.








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Old 06-25-2010, 02:56 AM   #10
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Holy....
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1991 XJ Cherokee, 4.0, AW4, NP-242, SYE
HP D30, Rusty's axle truss, Currie HD steering, diff. slider
C8.25, Powertrax locker
4.5" RE up front and Rough Country out back
33" BFG A/T's 15" soft 8's
Suspension seats, rock sliders, plated rear corner panels,
trimmed fenders, CB, exhaust, lights, remote locks and start, etc.
Past jeeps:97 TJ, 99 TJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff@Bestop View Post
In video games, the bad guy's bullets travel much slower than the good guy's bullets.
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Old 06-25-2010, 03:22 AM   #11
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Moly....
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:18 AM   #12
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The trick with Herculiner is in the prep work.
I used this in the bed of a Tacoma. I thought I had done good prep work, and even put on two coats. But after about 2 years, it started wearing off; car wash brushes wore it off the bed rails quickly, and the bed floor and sides were wearing off without any noteworthy wear-and-tear.
Some people have great luck with it, but I doubt I'll ever use it for any external applications again. I haven't ruled it out for doing inside my TJ, but I'm not crazy about the idea either.
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Old 07-10-2010, 06:54 AM   #13
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IMPORTANT....i just did the Herculiner a couple of weeks ago and all went smooth, removed the seats, etc....and the rear seat belts....BE SURE to pull out the seat belt and knot it. Once you remove that plastic from the roll bar and the seat belt runs in it, you can't get it out...we unbolted the triangle at the top and dropped the plastic piece to the bottom of the bar and it worked like a charm...that was the only hard part. Started at 8:00 am and finished at 10 pm. We had already done the sanding prior to starting the liner. I highly recommend it and now my husband wants in the bed of his truck.

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