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Old 07-07-2013, 07:44 PM   #61
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Yes it did. It made u look like a fool. U are saying .5 inches makes a difference in terms of looks and functionality. U r wrong. Admit it.
Um, no. I am saying that I PREFER the look of a 33" tire on a 2.5" look. It is impossible for me to be wrong about that. You like the look of 35s, and I don't. We're both "right."

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Old 07-07-2013, 07:44 PM   #62
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Yes it did. It made u look like a fool. U are saying .5 inches makes a difference in terms of looks and functionality. U r wrong. Admit it.


Attachment 270104

Sorry, you set yourself up for this lmao all in good fun! Seriously guys lets loosen up ay?

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Old 07-07-2013, 07:45 PM   #63
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I think 35's look better with 3.5-4" of lift. But why are we getting all butt hurt on opinions of what looks the best ?
Set your jeep up to perform how you want it and fits your driving/wheeling style
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:49 PM   #64
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THW, so you are saying that 35's are great for 3" + lift but look like crap on 2"-2.5" lift? I don't get that. It's a .5"-1" difference. That's not enough of a difference to make a statement like that. Look around on this forum. There are plenty of 2-2.5" setups with 35's on JK's here. A half inch or 1 inch difference doesn't make or break a setup. Pull up a picture of a brand new stock Sport S, Sahara, or Rubicon and put it next to the picture I posted. It's basically the same exact clearance between the top of the tire and fender well as compared to mine. How do the proportions look any different?
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:51 PM   #65
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Is it crazy to lift 2.5", put 35s, and then "rally" the JK?





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Old 07-07-2013, 07:52 PM   #66
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THW, so you are saying that 35's are great for 3" + lift but look like crap on 2"-2.5" lift? I don't get that. It's a .5"-1" difference. That's not enough of a difference to make a statement like that. Look around on this forum. There are plenty of 2-2.5" setups with 35's on JK's here. A half inch or 1 inch difference doesn't make or break a setup. Pull up a picture of a brand new stock Sport S, Sahara, or Rubicon and put it next to the picture I posted. It's basically the same exact clearance between the top of the tire and fender well as compared to mine. How do the proportions look any different?
Like kjeeper said and others on here as well its an opinion man. And clearance from top to bottom isnt the only concern. What about the clearance front the front of the fender well and back? To me they look "pinched" in there
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:52 PM   #67
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Um, no. I am saying that I PREFER the look of a 33" tire on a 2.5" look. It is impossible for me to be wrong about that. You like the look of 35s, and I don't. We're both "right."
It's a half of a inch that u wrote in ur little chart. That 3" lift can take a 35 and a 2.5 can't. That statement is ridiculous. It doesn't make sense. Look, when I first participated in this, I said I installed a 2.5 lift with 35's. and I felt it took away the room. So I changed fender flares. I agree with you in your opinion. I thought they were too big in my eyes for what I was wanting to accomplish with my look. I wanted more space between tire and fender. I'm just saying with the different variables in tire size, actual lift amount, 2 door/4 door, etc that a half inch isn't going to make or break any jeep. And in my opinion even a inch isn't going to change the look drastically.
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:53 PM   #68
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We say "2.5" or "3.5" but what lift other then a BB Actually gives advertised height ?
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:57 PM   #69
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Like kjeeper said and others on here as well its an opinion man. And clearance from top to bottom isnt the only concern. What about the clearance front the front of the fender well and back? To me they look "pinched" in there
Even the clearance is the same from the fender well front and back as it is stock. It may look "pinched" in there to you, but they look the same coming straight from the factory.
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:58 PM   #70
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THW, so you are saying that 35's are great for 3" + lift but look like crap on 2"-2.5" lift? I don't get that. It's a .5"-1" difference. That's not enough of a difference to make a statement like that. Look around on this forum. There are plenty of 2-2.5" setups with 35's on JK's here. A half inch or 1 inch difference doesn't make or break a setup. Pull up a picture of a brand new stock Sport S, Sahara, or Rubicon and put it next to the picture I posted. It's basically the same exact clearance between the top of the tire and fender well as compared to mine. How do the proportions look any different?
Wow. I never made that statement, so I don't know why you're attributing it to me. All I said was that 35s look silly on a 2.5" lift- never said they "are great for 3"+ lift but look like crap on 2-2.5" lift." You should go look up the definition of a straw man argument. I don't really like the look of your setup, but that's just my opinion. Get over it, man.
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Old 07-07-2013, 07:59 PM   #71
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It's a half of a inch that u wrote in ur little chart. That 3" lift can take a 35 and a 2.5 can't. That statement is ridiculous. It doesn't make sense. Look, when I first participated in this, I said I installed a 2.5 lift with 35's. and I felt it took away the room. So I changed fender flares. I agree with you in your opinion. I thought they were too big in my eyes for what I was wanting to accomplish with my look. I wanted more space between tire and fender. I'm just saying with the different variables in tire size, actual lift amount, 2 door/4 door, etc that a half inch isn't going to make or break any jeep. And in my opinion even a inch isn't going to change the look drastically.
Not my "little chart." Learn some reading comprehension before you get all teary-eyed, bro.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:01 PM   #72
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Wow. I never made that statement, so I don't know why you're attributing it to me. All I said was that 35s look silly on a 2.5" lift- never said they "are great for 3"+ lift but look like crap on 2-2.5" lift." You should go look up the definition of a straw man argument. I don't really like the look of your setup, but that's just my opinion. Get over it, man.
You are just breaking my heart aren't you?
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:02 PM   #73
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You are just breaking my heart aren't you?
Sure seems like it!
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:02 PM   #74
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Thats actually impossible. You are raising the height of the vehicle. Which changes the distance between the top of the tire, to the fender. Not once changing the geometry of the fender wells. Why do you think it becomes necessary to trim the pinch seams?
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:05 PM   #75
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Even the clearance is the same from the fender well front and back as it is stock. It may look "pinched" in there to you, but they look the same coming straight from the factory.
Thats actually impossible. Longer springs change the distance from the fender to the top of the tire, nothing else. The horizontal distance between the fender does not change. However a larger tire does. Why do you think it becomes necessary to trim pinch seams and such?
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:05 PM   #76
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Sure seems like it!
I think I smell a little jealously. Over here knocking on everyones setup but it appears you are cruising in a bone stock 4-door. To each their own, pal.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:06 PM   #77
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Sorry about the double post, didnt realize it took.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:07 PM   #78
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The rear axle moves in forward the more you lift it unless you have adjustable control arms. That causes it to get closer to the pinch seam.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:09 PM   #79
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Not my "little chart." Learn some reading comprehension before you get all teary-eyed, bro.
U got me. It wasn't ur chart. U just agreed with it. Sorry. Who started this post anyways? He should be banned. Lol
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:12 PM   #80
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I think I smell a little jealously. Over here knocking on everyones setup but it appears you are cruising in a bone stock 4-door. To each their own, pal.
Yup- bone stock. Saving up for 33s and a 2.5" lift. Why not 35s, you might ask? Because they look goofy to me.

Same answer for why I didn't buy a yellow JK. So no, I am not jealous.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:13 PM   #81
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The rear axle moves in forward the more you lift it unless you have adjustable control arms. That causes it to get closer to the pinch seam.
Yea but regardless a bigger tire reduces the horizontal distance between the tire and fender
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:24 PM   #82
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I ran 33s with a 2.5 for a few years and thought I needed/wanted 35s with the same lift. I gave in and put on the 35s with the 2.5 lift and lost all my articulation. It rubbed both the front and rear flares and looked stuffed. I missed seeing and having the room between the tires and the stock flares. I could have cut the flares...yes but it still looked like to much tire for a 2.5 lift. This was on a 2 door and 35s IMO need more than 2.5 to work/look/function correctly on a 2 door. On a JKU things change and perspective can change too with the same lift and tires.

Got a 2013 2 door now and went back to 33" KM2s with a 1.5 coil kit, shocks, bumper..etc. Love it. Functions every bit as needed and does everything I ever did with the 2.5 lift and 33s or 35s. Lower without the need this go round for adj track bars, new drag links, new tie rods, steering issues. Ball joints are better off with 33s etc.

You gotta pay to play but be smart with your build. Sometimes it takes a second go through.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:29 PM   #83
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I ran 33s with a 2.5 for a few years and thought I needed/wanted 35s with the same lift. I gave in and put on the 35s with the 2.5 lift and lost all my articulation. It rubbed both the front and rear flares and looked stuffed. I missed seeing and having the room between the tires and the stock flares. I could have cut the flares...yes but it still looked like to much tire for a 2.5 lift. This was on a 2 door and 35s IMO need more than 2.5 to work/look/function correctly on a 2 door. On a JKU things change and perspective can change too with the same lift and tires.

Got a 2013 2 door now and went back to 33" KM2s with a 1.5 coil kit, shocks, bumper..etc. Love it. Functions every bit as needed and does everything I ever did with the 2.5 lift and 33s or 35s. Lower without the need this go round for adj track bars, new drag links, new tie rods, steering issues. Ball joints are better off with 33s etc.

You gotta pay to play but be smart with your build. Sometimes it takes a second go through.
Very nicely said!
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:30 PM   #84
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I went the same route (teraflex coil leveling kit) for the same reasons, IMO 33's look perfect on a 2 Dr and I've never had any rub at all while off road although it seems to me as though if I disconnected the sway bar I would be very close to rubbing....

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Old 07-07-2013, 08:33 PM   #85
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For me, I started out with the rubicon and added 2.5" lift that actually netted me a ill more than 2.5. Like someone posted before, the stock rubicon tires are close to a 32". So I figured if I'm going to pay $2000 or so dollars for rims and tires, why get a tire that's only a inch, inch and a half taller than what I have. Plus the biggest factor in ground clearance in a jeep or any vehicle is tires. One can have six inches of lift and if he has 30" tires, then his pumpkins will sit lower than someone with no lift and 32" tires. It's truly that simple. The more rubber u have the higher your axles will sit and allow for more clearance. There are two important factors when making this decision, looks and function. Maybe someone who has 33's will look better than someone with 35's, but the extra two inches of clearance is more important when climbing rocks or going through ruts. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and functionality is in the eye of the builder. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:33 PM   #86
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Very nicely said!
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:43 PM   #87
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The rear axle moves in forward the more you lift it unless you have adjustable control arms. That causes it to get closer to the pinch seam.
The 2013's come from the factory with the rear pinch seams trimmed.
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:46 PM   #88
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[QUOTE=Yenges Khan;3936474]For me, I started out with the rubicon and added 2.5" lift that actually netted me a ill more than 2.5. Like someone posted before, the stock rubicon tires are close to a 32". So I figured if I'm going to pay $2000 or so dollars for rims and tires, why get a tire that's only a inch, inch and a half taller than what I have. Plus the biggest factor in ground clearance in a jeep or any vehicle is tires. One can have six inches of lift and if he has 30" tires, then his pumpkins will sit lower than someone with no lift and 32" tires. It's truly that simple. The more rubber u have the higher your axles will sit and allow for more clearance. There are two important factors when making this decision, looks and function. Maybe someone who has 33's will look better than someone with 35's, but the extra two inches of clearance is more important when climbing rocks or going through ruts. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and functionality is in the eye of the builder. Just my 2 cent

couldn't agree more Build your jeep the way you want and for what you use it for.... who cares what other people think thats the beauty of having a vehicle with so many parts available, you can make it your own
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:49 PM   #89
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I agree ESP
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Old 07-07-2013, 08:51 PM   #90
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This thread is getting a bit sidetracked. I'll attempt to bring us back -

35s with stock flares and a 2.5 lift will rub = might look ok to some but to most it's not functional and looks stuffed.

35s with stock flares and a 3.0 or 3.5 lift will not rub = looks great and functional.

33s with stock flares and a 2.5 will not rub = looks great and functional.

You can build your rig any way you desire but the info provided in this thread shows what happens when you go with certain combos. The average is 2.5 with 35s and stock flares doesn't look really proportional and doesn't function fully for wheeling. You gotta go bigger for 35s than a 2.5 to work the way you need and will want them too. When you do this, be ready to hand over the wallet. Things get expensive here.

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