My TF leveling kit was a piece of cake. Install was easy and the instructions were easy to follow...if you use common sense. Just watch your brake lines. Be sure to remove brackets on the front and rear so you can get enough "droop" to get your springs out. I did nothing with the steering stabilizer.
Also, while you're under there, may as well upgrade to grade 8 hardware and trim your pinch seam. Kbwwolf will chime in here in a minute with all the links for that stuff. I'm not that savvy, I pretty much just do what he says!!
Cigarettes are like squirrels. Both are perfectly harmless until you put them in your mouth and light them on fire.
The TF leveling kit is great for someone just looking for a little boost and a little added clearance for larger tires. I installed mine in 1.5 hours taking my time and without ever removing a tire from the Jeep. Well worth the ~$120.
'11 JKU Sport - TF Leveling Kit - 16" Strike 5s on 33s
You don't need a new SS for your Jeep unless the stock one is broken.
And there's no need to trim your pinch seam unless you're running 35" tires (and then, maybe) or larger (and then, definitely).
The TF leveling kit works great, from what I've heard. Listen to these guys. ^^^^^
Here's a link to the polyperformance kit JK-Uknowit mentioned. Hard to believe, I know, but the bolts in your Jeep's stock TB's and LCA's are undersized, which can lead to serious problems down the road. Buy a set of the bolts in the link below and install them when you do your lift, and you'll be good to go.
I went with a 1 3/4 spacer lift, which is essentially the same thing, but retains the factory rake, which I like. Cake to install, and zero drawbacks. The rest of the suspension and steering is 100% stock, but I may replace the shocks at some point, which I wanted to do anyway.
4fit, how did you install your kit without removing the tires? We are still talking about the TF pucks, yes?
For the front:
lossened, but didn't remove, the trackbar and control arm bolts
removed the lower shock bolt
removed the sway bar end links
removed the brake line bracket
slowly flexed the corner with the floor jack on the frame
once high enough for the spring to come out, i put the frame on a jack stand
installed the pucks
installed new longer sway bar end links
Basically the same thing for the rear, just didn't completely remove the sway bar end links. Removed the bracket holding the emergency brake cable to the tub. Used some lube on the rear puck and used the spring to press the puck into place. Bolted it all back up.
Very simple install and I have no doubt I could do it in less than an hour if I needed to. But no need to rush at this. Always take your time and make sure everything is done correctly.
Regarding trimming the pinch seems, are there a few sets of 35s that you don't need to worry about this with? I guess it's hard to say given the availability and variance of wheel/tire packages.
If you've got a couple of inches of clearance, you're most likely good. But there's really no hard and fast rule, since all Jeeps are gonna be different, especially after adding lifts and various other suspension, steering, stabilizing gadgets, different wheel/tire combos, etc.
When your suspension compresses, the rear tires move up and to the back. My worry was that, with swaybars discoed, and in the right circumstances (crawling over a log, crossing a deep rut on an angle) I was a little too close for comfort (I think I had like 1-3/4", iirc).
Basically, I cut mine simply out of a better-safe-than-sorry mindset. I must've read 20 threads on JKF...there were people whose seams were really close to their tires who didn't cut em, and some who had plenty of space but did cut em.
I also read several threads where guys thought they had plenty of room, then promptly went out and sliced one of their tires.
So I cut mine.
You've probably seen this, but here's how I did mine:
Thanks wolf I hadn't seen that other thread. Looks easy enough and I can understand why you would want to do that. Is it still necessary if you don't disconnect the sway links, thoughts?
If you're not gonna disco the swaybars, and you've got as much clearance as I had (almost 2"), it's probably not necessary. Problem is, that 2" clearance LOOKS like it's too little. I actually wasn't gonna trim mine, but I kept looking at it, and thinking about it, and looking at it...
Finally decided what the hell, just to be on the safe side...
You'll notice from my post that I really only cut the corner off. That's the dangerous part. And it really was an easy job.
There are some guys on JKF that say you shouldn't need to do it unless you're running 37's. But, like I said, there were several posts where guys with 35's had sliced a tire. So I caved.
"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
So it sounds unnecessary, as one poster pointed out he removed his??
Removing it for $0 sounds better than moving it for $50 or $100.
Ive heard many state "the stock one is fine", which has to be the only part on a jeep that is.
Don't get me wrong, the SS serves a purpose. It's just not gonna prevent, or cure, true DW.
Your stock one is fine for most wheeling applications. If you're gonna wheel your Jeep hard, you might want a beefier aftermarket version. And if you're worried about nailing it while wheeling, you can relocate so that it sits a little higher for fairly minimal cost.
I wouldn't remove it, though, as it does contribute to keeping your Jeep stable over rough surfaces.
"What we see depends mainly on what we look for."
Hi everyone! I just got my TF leveling/Grade 8 Bolt kit from NorthRidge4x4 this evening and will be installing them tomorrow. Can anyone give me some guidance/write up on how to properly do this project? I can only find some info on the leveling kit install but not on both. Thanks!