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Old 08-26-2010, 04:28 PM   #1
MARGARET, 10-14-51\6-1-12

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INSTALLED SOME ARMOR TODAY. (pictures)

put some under armor on the jk today. front diff slider - oil pan skid plate- evap skid plate. and rock sliders. not bad for 6 hours work. oh fyi if you use the smithy built rock sliders reuse your oem 10mm nuts with washers attached.
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:32 PM   #2
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sweet! armor is always a good thing!

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Old 08-26-2010, 04:34 PM   #3
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Looks really nice actually.

Protection is one of the most important things IMO.
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:44 PM   #4
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Nice mods man. Armor is a good thing. I have the full river raider skid system going on my rubi soon including their evap skid. I also have the rear diff slider on the way and I have in my shop the same front diff skid you just put on. I want all my skids black so I got rid of the red powdercoat and am painting it black. Any issues with the install on that piece? I see you have already tested them.
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:47 PM   #5
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NICE.....I'm jealous.....on my long list of things to do!!!
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:51 PM   #6
MARGARET, 10-14-51\6-1-12

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Nice mods man. Armor is a good thing. I have the full river raider skid system going on my rubi soon including their evap skid. I also have the rear diff slider on the way and I have in my shop the same front diff skid you just put on. I want all my skids black so I got rid of the red powdercoat and am painting it black. Any issues with the install on that piece? I see you have already tested them.
no issues on the install. just a little weeping of diff fluid, maybe a teaspoon or two.i also have the rear diff slider but waiting to install it when i put my ox locker in.
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:58 PM   #7
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no issues on the install. just a little weeping of diff fluid, maybe a teaspoon or two.
I was wondering if it would leak a little pulling those bolts. Probably going to throw it on this weekend. How tight is it to the diff on the bottom? As in how much ground clearance is really lost?

Edit- I see you also got the rear diff slider. AEV? That is the only one I could find. I have a big order in with northridge and it is shipping truck freight leaving today up to Alaska. I have lots of goodies on that pallet including the AEV slider. I hope it fits well with the river raider skids.
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:04 PM   #8
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Heh Heh, me too, I didn't use Smitty- but

My evap can/LCA skids/Diff skids --used to be RED, I painted them black also

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Old 08-26-2010, 05:08 PM   #9
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Heh Heh, me too, I didn't use Smitty- but

My evap can/LCA skids/Diff skids --used to be RED, I painted them black also

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Good. Black goes with everything right? I am gonna do the LCA skids at some point soon as well. What did you use for paint on those skids? That is the only thing holding me back at this point from finishing the front diff slider. I can't make my mind up on the paint. Going to be doing all the river raider stuff as well. Easy to fix with a rattle can vs trying to fix powdercoat.
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:17 PM   #10
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I was wondering if it would leak a little pulling those bolts. Probably going to throw it on this weekend. How tight is it to the diff on the bottom? As in how much ground clearance is really lost?

Edit- I see you also got the rear diff slider. AEV? That is the only one I could find. I have a big order in with northridge and it is shipping truck freight leaving today up to Alaska. I have lots of goodies on that pallet including the AEV slider. I hope it fits well with the river raider skids.
you loose less than a half inch ground clearance.
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:25 PM   #11
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you loose less than a half inch ground clearance.
Cool. Thanks.
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:26 PM   #12
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Heh Heh, Yea I just roughed up the bottom surfaces and wiped with some Windex (works good on metals) then sprayed some ACE hardware (rattle can) black exterior-enamel !!


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Good. Black goes with everything right? I am gonna do the LCA skids at some point soon as well. What did you use for paint on those skids? That is the only thing holding me back at this point from finishing the front diff slider. I can't make my mind up on the paint. Going to be doing all the river raider stuff as well. Easy to fix with a rattle can vs trying to fix powdercoat.
It's not THAT important, because it's just gonna get scratched anywho !!

I don't know why they produce that crap in RED-

I used KRYLON "castiron" gray/black on my roll cage and fog light brackets, it's REALLY durable !!

I paintem in the shade and stickem in the sun, that'll dryem pretty good-

Good luck

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Old 08-26-2010, 05:38 PM   #13
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Heh Heh, Yea I just roughed up the bottom surfaces and wiped with some Windex (works good on metals) then sprayed some ACE hardware (rattle can) black exterior-enamel !!




It's not THAT important, because it's just gonna get scratched anywho !!

I don't know why they produce that crap in RED-

I used KRYLON "castiron" gray/black on my roll cage and fog light brackets, it's REALLY durable !!

I paintem in the shade and stickem in the sun, that'll dryem pretty good-

Good luck

JIMBO
I actually do some automotive painting so I always use ppg wax and grease remover for prep. How did the skids hold up with just scuffing up the powder coat? There are some hard to reach areas on the diff slider that I could not get down to bare metal like I did on the rest of it. I was wondering how rattle can paint would react with scuffed powder.

The only reason I have been putting so much thought into it is my experience with certain types of paint. I know it will get scratched up a lot and that is why I want something easy to fix. I have seen a lot of so called good rattle can paint come chipping off easily and scratching just by looking at them. I want the paint to last at least until the part is bolted on.

I'm probably just going to use rustoleum in satin black. All in the prep.
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:48 PM   #14
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--DOWN TO BARE METAL ????


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I actually do some automotive painting so I always use ppg wax and grease remover for prep. How did the skids hold up with just scuffing up the powder coat? There are some hard to reach areas on the diff slider that I could not get down to bare metal like I did on the rest of it. I was wondering how rattle can paint would react with scuffed powder.

The only reason I have been putting so much thought into it is my experience with certain types of paint. I know it will get scratched up a lot and that is why I want something easy to fix. I have seen a lot of so called good rattle can paint come chipping off easily and scratching just by looking at them. I want the paint to last at least until the part is bolted on.

I'm probably just going to use rustoleum in satin black. All in the prep.
Good grief-NO I just roughed up the surface of the powder coat--it's a good primer/sealer, so I wouldn't mess withit

Any rust you get in the skids isn't going to jeopardize the skidding effect for 40/50 years anyway !!

You're being too particular, but it's yours and thats what counts !!

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Old 08-26-2010, 05:55 PM   #15
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Looks good. I like those rock rails!
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Old 08-26-2010, 08:57 PM   #16
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--DOWN TO BARE METAL ????




Good grief-NO I just roughed up the surface of the powder coat--it's a good primer/sealer, so I wouldn't mess withit

Any rust you get in the skids isn't going to jeopardize the skidding effect for 40/50 years anyway !!

You're being too particular, but it's yours and thats what counts !!

JIMBO
Yeah, I didn't know how the powder would react with the paint so I just took her down to steel. It really wasn't that bad. Took about as long as any quality automotive finish to sand off. Cake with the right tools. I am used to working on things that had to have a much higher finish grade. It is hard for me to get used to the idea of "it's good enough for the jeep". For the love of god I use the thing and whatever I put on is going to come off in spots.

With that in mind and a little motivation from the pics I went and finished her off today. I was still particular about proper prep. Used a rustoleum high performance industrial enamel. Used that over their industrial primer. Came out great. Now that it looks so good I can go throw it under the jeep and f#$% it all up. Will post pics when the wife brings the jeep back.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:03 PM   #17
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Heh Heh, did you hear about the guy that Duct-taped the rocks, before he traversed-em ??


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Yeah, I didn't know how the powder would react with the paint so I just took her down to steel. It really wasn't that bad. Took about as long as any quality automotive finish to sand off. Cake with the right tools. I am used to working on things that had to have a much higher finish grade. It is hard for me to get used to the idea of "it's good enough for the jeep". For the love of god I use the thing and whatever I put on is going to come off in spots.

With that in mind and a little motivation from the pics I went and finished her off today. I was still particular about proper prep. Used a rustoleum high performance industrial enamel. Used that over their industrial primer. Came out great. Now that it looks so good I can go throw it under the jeep and f#$% it all up. Will post pics when the wife brings the jeep back.
No, me either, your paint jobs may hold up better than the undercarriage paint !!

Sounds pretty good !!

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Old 08-26-2010, 09:11 PM   #18
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looks good!
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:30 PM   #19
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Heh Heh, did you hear about the guy that Duct-taped the rocks, before he traversed-em ??




No, me either, your paint jobs may hold up better than the undercarriage paint !!

Sounds pretty good !!

JIMBO
Didn't catch the one about the duct tape. HAHA

Funny you should mention the undercarriage paint. That is what kind of wear I wanted. At least where it sticks. I use a lot of products from eastwood and they have a few finishes that are strictly to match oem undercarriage paint for durability. The stuff is steep and will it play nice with rattle can touch ups? Who knows.The route I went should work fine and it has a damn good start in life. I figure once I mount the slider I will hit everything but it.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:51 PM   #20
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Is there a hole in the skid/box for when you change you oil?
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Old 08-27-2010, 07:40 AM   #21
MARGARET, 10-14-51\6-1-12

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Is there a hole in the skid/box for when you change you oil?
yes there is plenty of drain hols for water and a nice cut out for the oil drain
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:07 AM   #22
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Which oil pan skid did you install?
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Old 08-27-2010, 11:03 AM   #23
MARGARET, 10-14-51\6-1-12

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Which oil pan skid did you install?
rancho.
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Old 08-27-2010, 11:38 AM   #24
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Which rock sliders are those - me likey...
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:17 PM   #25
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rancho.
Thank you. That has just been added to my list of "must haves."
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Old 08-27-2010, 12:34 PM   #26
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Which rock sliders are those - me likey...
smithy built and reuse your oem 10mm nuts.

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